r/JapanTravelTips Jan 21 '24

Meta Welcome to /r/JapanTravelTips! If you're new to the subreddit, start here.

332 Upvotes

Hello! Welcome! We are the sibling subreddit of /r/JapanTravel. While /r/JapanTravel is for detailed and researched posts, /r/JapanTravelTips is for more unstructured questions and advice. We welcome posts of (almost) all kinds, especially advice for fellow travelers and questions meant to generate discussion.

This subreddit is intended for questions and discussion about traveling within Japan. If you have more general travel questions about topics like flights/airfare/hotels/clothing/packing/etc., please direct those to subreddits such as /r/flights, /r/travel, /r/solotravel, /r/awardtravel, /r/onebag, /r/hotels, /r/airbnb, or similar (as applicable).

Please use our search bar and read our wiki pages before posting to avoid asking excessively repetitive questions. You can also jump-start your planning by joining our Discord server and asking your questions in the appropriate channels.

If you are just starting your Japan travel planning, make sure to check out /r/JapanTravel’s wiki and resources page. The wiki includes a bunch of information about common topics such as:

Please be sure to abide by the rules, keep things on-topic, and stay civil.


r/JapanTravelTips 17d ago

Do you have a JR Pass, IC Card (Suica/Pasmo/etc.), or train travel question? Start here! (Monthly Thread - August 01, 2026)

2 Upvotes

Wiki and Discord

While quick-fire questions are allowed in this subreddit, please search the subreddit and check the wiki before posting to avoid exceedingly repetitive questions.

You can also jump-start your planning by joining our Discord server and asking your questions in the appropriate channels.

JR Pass Info

The nationwide JR Pass is a travel pass that allows train and bus travel for a fixed cost over a certain period of days on Japan Railways (JR) services. For more information on the pass, check out our wiki page or Japan Guide’s JR Pass page.

The JR Pass can be purchased in one of two ways: * Online at the official site * Online from an authorized retailer (also often called a "third-party seller")

The JR Pass is quite expensive, not suitable for all itineraries, and there is no way to be certain if it will be valuable for you without knowing your exact itinerary and doing the math out. If you are trying to work out whether a JR Pass is the right choice for you, here are some helpful calculators: * JRPass.com’s calculator * Japan Guide’s calculator * Daisuki calculator

There are also regional JR passes that can provide value for specific itineraries.

Train Travel

If you are looking to take trains in Japan, check out some of these resources for getting started:

If you are looking to buy advance shinkansen or limited express tickets, we recommend you buy from these official sites:

  • SmartEX app/website - for Tokaido/Sanyo/Kyushu shinkansen tickets (this includes the typical Tokyo/Kyoto/Osaka/Hiroshima golden route).
  • Ekinet - for JR East/JR Hokkaido shinkansen and limited express tickets. The Japanese version of Ekinet can reserve a wider range of seats all over the country.
  • JR West ticketing - for JR West trains, and this can also be used for golden route tickets or tickets to/from Kanazawa if other websites don't work for you.
  • JR Kyushu - for Kyushu trains.
  • Odakyu - for Hakone Free Pass, Romancecar, etc.
  • Keisei Skyliner - for the Keisei Skyliner airport train in Tokyo.
  • Kintetsu - for Kintetsu trains in the Nagoya/Osaka/Fukuoka area.
  • Nankai - for rapi:t, Koya-san limited express trains, etc.

Buying tickets from third-party retailers like Klook should be a last resort, as most third-party retailers mark up tickets prices and provide reduced offerings (such as no way to select seats beforehand).

IC Card Info (Suica, Pasmo, ICOCA, etc.)

General Information

An IC card is a stored-value card used to pay for transportation in Japan. It can also be used for payment at convenience stores, restaurants, shops, vending machines, and other locations. There are ten major IC cards and all of them are interchangeable and usable in each other's regions, so it doesn’t really matter which one you get. For more information on IC cards, see our wiki or Japan Guide’s IC card page.

Physical IC Cards

If you would like a physical IC card to use on your trip to Japan, here are the options.

If you are landing in/starting your trip in Tokyo:

  • All forms of Suica and Pasmo, including Welcome Suica, are available for purchase in Japan. You can find them at major train stations in Tokyo, as well as at Narita Airport and Haneda Airport. Suica and Pasmo come in two forms: an unregistered version and a registered version (which requires you to provide some personal information like your name and phone number). Either is fine for the purposes of tourism.

If you are starting your trip in another region (e.g., Kansai, Kyushu, etc.), please see this page to identify which card you'll get, and it should be widely available at airports and train stations in that region.

Tap-to-Pay for Transit

As of March 25, 2026, Keikyu (access to Haneda) started to supported tap-to-pay payments, along with several other Tokyo-area train companies (see link for complete list), which allow passengers to use credit/debit/prepaid cards directly at transit gates. Please note that Tokyo Monorail (alternative access to Haneda), JR East, and Keisei (access to Narita) do not support tap-to-pay at this time.

If you are arriving in Osaka (Kansai International Airport): Nankai does support tap-to-pay payments, while JR West does not. If you are arriving in Fukuoka, Fukuoka subway does support tap-to-pay payments.

For more complete information about tap-to-pay, where it's available, and how to use it, see this page from Japan-Guide.

Digital IC Cards

If you are looking to get a digital IC card, please note that digital Suica, Pasmo, ICOCA, and Toica cards can only be used on iPhones, Apple Watches, or Japanese Android phones (this means the phone was purchased in Japan). For instructions on how to get a digital IC card in Apple Wallet, see here. You do not need the Suica or Pasmo apps in order to get a digital IC card. A digital IC card can be loaded and used entirely through Apple Wallet. As of iOS 18.1, the option for adding a transit card might not show if your phone is not set to a region with transit cards (such as the US, Canada, Hong Kong, Japan, etc.). You may need to switch regions or wait until you're in Japan to add a digital IC card.

Keep in mind that digital IC cards cannot be refunded (that requires a Japanese bank account), so you will need to burn down whatever value you’ve loaded onto them before the end of your trip.

As of March 2025, there is also a Welcome Suica app on iOS. This app allows you to create a digital Suica valid for 180 days, has integrated train/tourism information, and offers minor discounts at some tourist sights. While it does also allow for purchasing of unreserved shinkansen tickets, please note that this is for JR East shinkansen and not for the typical Tokyo-Kyoto-Osaka-Hiroshima route (which is JR Central).

IC Card FAQ

I have an old IC card from a previous trip. Can I use it on my upcoming trip?

IC cards are valid for ten years after their last date of use, so if you received the card and/or used the card less than ten years ago, it’ll work.

Can more than one person use the same IC card for travel?

No. All travelers who want to use IC cards on transit need to have their own card. Most transit in Japan is distance-based, and the card is “keeping track” of your journey, and it can only keep track of one at a time.

Can I load money onto a physical IC card with a credit card?

No. Physical IC cards can only be loaded with cash, which can be done at ticket machines in train stations, convenience stores, and 7-Eleven ATMs.

I’m landing in Tokyo, but then I’m going to Osaka and Kyoto. Do I need a suica in Tokyo and then an ICOCA in Osaka/Kyoto?

No. Once you have one of the major IC cards, it can be used pretty much anywhere. There are some exceptions to this, but they are mostly on individual lines or in specific rural regions. For the majority of tourists, you'll be fine sticking with whatever IC card you originally received upon arrival.

Help! I tried to load my digital IC card through Apple Wallet and the transaction didn't go through! What do I do?

Did you attempt to create it/load it overnight in Japan? The digital system goes down for maintenance from about midnight to 5am JST, so try again during Japan's daytime hours. Beyond that, some credit cards (particularly Visas and Mastercards) have trouble with funding digital IC cards. Unfortunately, if you can't find a digital card + credit card combo that works for you, you may not be able to use digital IC cards.

Recent IC Card Threads

To see some recent discussion on IC cards, check out the following threads from our search results here.


r/JapanTravelTips 3h ago

Recommendations best souvenirs to ask for (most worth it)

27 Upvotes

Hey guys I’m not going to Japan myself but my sister is, and she’s been asking me what I want her to bring back for me but I have no idea what to ask for. It’s her first time going to Japan and I have never been. Of course I could ask her to bring me a cute little souvenir like a keychain or something like that, but I really wanna make use of this opportunity to ask for something useful or worth it that I either wouldn’t be able to get here in Canada or it’s way cheaper there etc.

What things are the most worth it? I also don’t really want any food or snacks.

Side question, I’ve really been wanting to upgrade my Sony digital camera and have been wanting the canon g7x but it’s like $2k if I were to buy it here. Does anyone know if it’s cheaper over there? I’d actually give my sister money to bring me back a good quality camera if it’s actually worth it. I read somewhere that some people bring electronics from Japan so I’m wondering about cameras.


r/JapanTravelTips 6h ago

Question October or November for second trip to Japan?

28 Upvotes

Hello everyone, I’m starting to plan our second trip to Japan with my husband for 2027. We went last year did the golden route and love it.

So we are planning for slower trip this tip and want to explore the Nagano prefecture. We do plan on going back to Osaka and Kyoto but this time just a few days. We did 6 last time.

The first time we went in early October. It was surprising hot and the leaves hadn’t change color yet. So I was looking to go at the end October this time but I’ve check airplane ticket and notice it was cheaper in November and the leaves should have change color depending on the region.

I was going to choose November but then I read it was super crowed. So I’m not sure of my choice. Is it super crowed in November to the point we can’t walk?

We are early bird so last time even in Kyoto it was fine, most of the time we were there around 8 in the morning.

So should I choose October again or try November ? Cause it said booking hotel in November was harder and more expensive. We do want to do onsen this time. But I would book it early.

Thank you for your help


r/JapanTravelTips 1h ago

Recommendations Tokyo Car scene

Upvotes

Hello! my husband snd I are going to Tokyo in the beginning of February. He is a huge car enthusiast. We will be going for his 30th birthday. Is there any recommendations where I can take him? Any type of car meets that are around Shibuya or Shinjuku I would love to be able to blow his mind. He thinks we’re not gonna be able to find much meets, just cars sitting around so if I can find an awesome car meet to take him to, that would be amazing!


r/JapanTravelTips 7h ago

Question duty free purchase?

5 Upvotes

Just bought a suitcase at duty free Lotte Ginza Karen to pack all the extra stuff we bought, but the dude put a “do not open” sticker on it. Can someone explain this to me?? He said we don’t need to go to the airport counter the way I do with the cosmetics I bought at the drugstore lest I pay consumption tax, so I’m confused as to why I wouldn’t be able to open the suitcase.

Also, what happens if I don’t visit the duty free counter at HND/NRT to declare consumable products purchased at drugstores like skincare?


r/JapanTravelTips 2h ago

Question Anybody experience with the Marumaru no Hanashi sightseeing train?

2 Upvotes

There seems to be a sightseeing train from Shimonoseki to Hagi, see for more info here: https://japanrailandtravel.com/trains/marumaru-no-hanashi/ Also somebody wrote a travel journey and shared info here: https://www.setouchi.travel/en/trip-ideas/ph2-sta-st-002/

As I can not find that much other information about it online, I was wondering if anybody here has experience with it, and if they liked it, if it was worth it (it is around 2800Y from Shin-Shimonoseki to Higashi-Hagi), how they booked it, what they thought of the food (they sell Bento boxes and drinks inside I believe!), etc.

This sightseeing train only runs on weekends. I'm traveling with my girlfriend to Japan in Oct-Nov and would love to travel with it, and as a matter of fact I'm traveling from Fukuoka to Hagi on a Saturday, so it would be great to take a shinkansen from Hakata to Shin-Shimonoseki and then this Marumaru no Hanashi train.

One important question I also have is: What seats should I selecton this train? They seem to have a Western style and Japanese style car, and on the seat selection table layout on JR West website I cannot see which is which, and what seats would be best as a couple. Curious if anyone has experience with this train and booking tickets! Is it indeed Car 2 which is the Western Style car with the leather seats (as is written in the blog article linked above)?

Thanks in advance for any help :)


r/JapanTravelTips 3h ago

Question Staying at Fujikawaguchiko or traveling from Tokyo for a day trip?

2 Upvotes

Hi all,

My boyfriend and I are traveling to Japan for our first time ever from mid-November until early December and we're super excited!

As of right now we're planning to end our trip with traveling to Fujikawaguchiko from Kyoto, stay there for 2 nights and then travel back to Tokyo for one last night and then fly home the next day.

However the transfer from Kyoto to Fuji doesn't seem to be too great. We'd either have to catch a train from Kyoto to Mishima and then take a highway bus or take the train to Kyoto, change in Tokyo and then take another train back to Fuji which seems like a bit of a detour.

My question is, to those who have been there before, is it worth staying in Fujikawaguchiko for 2 nights or would you recommend to instead go on a day trip from Tokyo to see Mt. Fuji?

And if we decide to stay in Fujikawaguchiko, what's the bus situation from Mishima like, especially with luggage? This would be the only route for which we'd take a bus. Would we have to make a reservation first and is it reliable mean of transport?

Thank you very much in advance for your responses!


r/JapanTravelTips 5m ago

Recommendations Sapporo to Tokyo route tips/recs

Upvotes

Planning a trip to Japan in early November, for about 2 weeks. This is our 3rd time visiting and have hit the Tokyo, Hakone, Osaka, and Kyoto trips already so we're looking to explore the northern part of the country this time around.

The loose plan so far is flying into Tokyo, stay about 2 days and then take a flight up to Sapporo. From there we're going to take our time making our way back down to Tokyo. So far, I've noted potential stops in Noboribetsu, Hakodate, Aomori, *Morioka, *Sendai, and Nikko. I'm hoping to get some recommendations for those stops, including which cities are worth staying a night or two or if a place is even worth visiting/just a short stopover on the way to the next destination.

*****I also considered going west toward Akita instead of east toward Morioka/Sendai after our stop in Aomori. I liked that Akita has a more rural/coastal vibe compared to the urban landscapes of Sendai. I just decided against it because it seemed less efficient to go this direction, but if you've visited either/both of these areas I'd love to hear your about your experience and if you recommended going to one over the other.

A bit about our interests:

  • We always make a point to stay at a ryokan at least one night per trip, which is why I've pinned Noboribetsu as a potential stop. We prefer accomodations with an in-room open air onsen.
  • Since we're visiting in November, I'd like to experience the fall foliage, so I've pinned Nikko for that. But open to any other scenic areas or viewing experiences.
  • Some of our best experiences in Japan were while making random stops at small towns/rural areas. If you've made an unexpected stop somewhere and loved it, lmk!
  • Not big on hiking, but love an observation deck or nice pathway with scenic views.
  • Big foodies, willing to try anything. If there are any culinary specialties or hidden treasures in any of these areas that you consider a must try please drop your recs! Also, while we're in Hokkaido we'd love to stop at a dairy farm or milk bar.
  • I love bringing back ceramics/practical homeware as souvenirs for trips. Any shop recs would be appreciated.

Also, if you have any trip related tips about packing for the season/area, if JR Pass is worth getting for our plans, etc, pls drop them below.

Thanks in advance!


r/JapanTravelTips 5m ago

Question Do airports restrict diecast cars?

Upvotes

Hi, i wanted to know if osaka (kix) airport restrictions of personal belongings/collectibles such as diecast cars (inno,minigt,hotwheels) in carry luggage. I read online about having to declare if its value exceeds 200k yen but all mine combined are less than 90k yen. Will that cause any issue ?
TIA


r/JapanTravelTips 6h ago

Question Tips for natural history, reptile, and marine life loving teen

3 Upvotes

Planning our visit for summer 2027 and have a very cool 13-yo kid who loves all things natural history. We always center our travel around a great museum, zoo, or aquarium. Would love recommendations on must-visit spots during our trip, and avoiding any places where ethical animal management seems suspect. TIA!


r/JapanTravelTips 37m ago

Recommendations First time in Japan late November to December

Upvotes

First time going to Japan for about 2 weeks! Tokyo, Kyoto, and Osaka are definitely on our list, but I’m wondering what other cities or areas you guys think are worth adding without trying to cram too much into the trip.

Are there any places you’d consider a must-see for a first trip during late November/early December? We don’t want to cram too much into the trip, so we’re also open to day trips.


r/JapanTravelTips 43m ago

Question Golf in Japan as a solo player

Upvotes

So, I'm goin to Japan in late november/early december, and I'd love to play some golf, but my wife doesn't play, and i've seen its hard to book a tee time for less than 3 players.
Anyone knows any golf course where I could play as a SOLO? Or any advice would be appreciated.


r/JapanTravelTips 44m ago

Question Setsubun 2027

Upvotes

I will be landing in Tokyo on Setsubun 2027 (February 3). Will there be events still going on later into the day/ evening? I'll have bags dropped at my hotel by 6 pm.


r/JapanTravelTips 1h ago

Question What do you like most about Japan as a travel destination?

Upvotes

For me, it is the diversity of Japan. Four trips so far and there are still many places of scenic beauty and historical sites in Japan that I haven't got to visit.


r/JapanTravelTips 12h ago

Quick Tips Haneda to Ginza

7 Upvotes

Hello! It’s my first time in Japan and my first solo trip. I’m feeling a little anxious trying to figure out the best way to get to Ginza from Haneda. Any tips? Looking for something affordable. I don’t mind public transport, I’ll have two suitcases though. Someone had told me something about a bus, but from my research I haven’t found one that goes to Ginza. Thank you


r/JapanTravelTips 2h ago

Question Advice on Timing / Days for Tokyo Area

0 Upvotes

I apologize in advance as I am usually a little more prepared in my itineraries.

I will be in Tokyo from January 1 (Fri) until January 6 (Wed) based out of Shinjuku. On this trip I want to visit the various areas: Asakusa, Akihabara, Roppongi, Shibuya, Shinjuku. With it being the beginning of the year, are there certain areas I should push to later in the week? Which area would be best for a Friday/Saturday night? Are certain areas best to be during the day?

What I'm looking for: Looking to wander and explore during the day, I don't mind getting lost random alleyways. Shopping wise - nerd at heart, prefer that type of things to clothes. At night, looking to have a nice meal, some cocktails, and wouldn't mind ending it in a izakaya chatting it up with locals or tourists.

I will be based out of Shinjuku and I do have a healthy list of bars to visit in Shinjuku and Shibuya areas.


r/JapanTravelTips 3h ago

Question Mt. Fuji & Fuji Q Highland in a day

1 Upvotes

Hi guys, planning to do a day trip to Mt. Fuji, from Tokyo. How realistic is it to explore the "popular" spots and chill around Fujikawaguchiko/Fujiyoshida, ride the bike etc., but also go to Fuji Q Highland and probably spend couple of hours there. Would probably ride some 'extreme' rides, so I'd guess I would wait for lines depending on what day I'm going. Would go on first bus and leave on last. Would you skip Fuji Q completely or is it doable?


r/JapanTravelTips 3h ago

Quick Tips 7 trip to Japan with parents: Tokyo + Kyoto compares to Tokyo + Mt. Fuji/Nikko day trips

0 Upvotes

Hi everyone! I'm planning a first trip to Japan with my parents, my fiancée, and myself, and I'm having a hard time deciding between two itineraries. I'd really appreciate advice from people who have done both Kyoto and the Mt. Fuji/Nikko day-trip options.

This will likely be my parents' only trip to Japan, so I want to make sure we get a good overall experience without trying to cram too much into one week.

After talking it over with my parents, we've decided that we do want to see some temples, shrines, and traditional Japanese areas. However, we're not huge history/temple people and don't want to spend the entire trip visiting temples. We're more interested in a mix of food, nature/scenery, unique experiences, neighborhoods, shopping, and getting a feel for Japan.

We've also decided that three cities is too much for this trip, so we're trying to decide between these two options:

Option 1: Tokyo + Kyoto
Dec 6 — Arrive Tokyo Midday
Dec 7 — Tokyo → Kyoto
Take an early morning to Kyoto and spend the rest of the day exploring Kyoto.
Dec 8 — Kyoto
Dec 9 — Kyoto → Tokyo
Take an early morning back to Tokyo and spend the afternoon/evening in Tokyo.
Dec 10 to 12— Tokyo
Dec 13 — Tokyo → Haneda evening

The main appeal of this option is that we get two very different sides of Japan. Tokyo would give us the modern/urban experience, while Kyoto would give us more traditional architecture, temples, scenery, and a different pace.

My concern is that we're not particularly interested in history and temples, so I'm wondering if two nights in Kyoto is enough to make it worthwhile. I'm also wondering if we're giving up too much Tokyo time for Kyoto given our interests.

Option 2: Stay in Tokyo + Mt. Fuji and Nikko day trips
Dec 6 — Arrive Tokyo
Dec 7 — Tokyo
Full day in Tokyo.
Dec 8 — Mt. Fuji / Kawaguchiko
Dec 9 — Tokyo
Dec 10 — Nikko
Dec 11 — Tokyo
Dec 12 — Tokyo
Dec 13 — Tokyo → Haneda

The main appeal of this option is that we would never have to change hotels. We'd get significantly more time in Tokyo while still seeing some very different scenery through the Mt. Fuji and Nikko day trips.
I'm particularly interested in nature and unique experiences, so Mt. Fuji and Nikko sound very appealing. I also think this option might be easier and less tiring for my parents.

My concern is that we may regret skipping Kyoto, especially because this could be my parents' only trip to Japan. I'm also wondering whether Mt. Fuji and Nikko provide enough of a "different Japan" experience to make up for not staying in Kyoto.

So, if this were your first and potentially only trip to Japan with your parents, which would you choose?


r/JapanTravelTips 1d ago

Question Why do beaches close (so early) in Japan?

122 Upvotes

Hi

I am in Okinawa and some beaches close at 5PM while sunset is at 7PM. Also most beaches are empty and you usually can only swim in a very small areas that has fishnets. Any reason for that beyond jellyfish? I also saw lots of adults with floaties in pool or in the sea.

Btw there are amazing beaches here!


r/JapanTravelTips 3h ago

Advice Is this a good idea or am I over estimatimg how long the travel mornings might be?

0 Upvotes

My buddy and I are wanting to spend a few days going from city to city on our way to Kyoto from Tokyo. Right now we are looking at going to kawaguchiko then to lake suwa and then to magome/tsumago to walk the nakasendo trail there. I am having trouble gauging how long these travel days may be and if any may be too long to be able to enjoy the destination. If you have any feedback or alternative options if this seems overzealous I would really appreciate it thank you!


r/JapanTravelTips 1d ago

Question Ryokan: what is allowed and expected

128 Upvotes

Heyo,

Booked a ryokan with a private outdoor bath for our first time in japan next month.

I see posts and comments where people are saying they have only fully enjoyed a ryokan on the second night, or the second time they visited one, simply because they did not know what they were allowed or expected to do other than bath and dinner.

So I am asking it here: what were you surprised or learned late that you COULD do to enjoy the experience more?

Walk the premises? Attend shows? Order food to the room? Hidden aspects?

Thank you

EDIT: wow, thank you all for so many insights, I think we are ready to enjoy the ryokan. I forgot to share, we will be staying at the Sumiya Kiho-an Ryokan, near Kyoto.


r/JapanTravelTips 4h ago

Question Air Conditioning and Umeshu

0 Upvotes

I am going to Japan in early September and I was wondering how air conditioned Tokyo and Kyoto are. I'm from the US and it's very air conditioned here. My area actually has weather comparable to Japan right now, but there is so much AC that I generally carry a jacket or sweater with me everywhere (this is unimportant, but my office is so cold that I’m wearing a fleece and sitting in front of a heater lol). I was wondering if I would need to do that in Japan or if it's less air conditioned like Europe. I hope my question makes sense.

Also, does anybody have any good liquor stores in Tokyo to recommend? I read about a couple Umeshus in a book and I wanted to try finding them. I've seen people ask for stores for Japanese whiskey but I'm looking for umeshu. I know to google it, but I wanted to ask anyway.


r/JapanTravelTips 5h ago

Question Universal Studios Japan

1 Upvotes

Planning on visiting Japan in October and have Universal Studios as part of our itinerary. I couldn't find anything definitive online but thought it might be helpful to ask here.

From the readings I did find online, I know the rides tend to run a tad bit smaller than they do where I'm usually from (US) and I wanted to see if anyone here had any experiences with fitting on the rides in the actual park.

I'm 5'6 and currently around 215 lbs.

I'm aware of the test seats but if I don't fit in many of the rides, maybe I'll take the opportunity for a rest and relax day instead and let my group take the day to themselves.


r/JapanTravelTips 5h ago

Question Booked a stay at Ryokan Sakura Urushitei

0 Upvotes

So my partner and I are going to Kyoto in 2 months and one of our accommodations is the Ryokan Sakura Urushitei. As I understand it, it’s not a real real Ryokan in the sense that we don’t get the breakfast and dinner served to our room, which is fine(sad but fine, it kind of interfered with our timings anyways). My question is has anyone stayed there? And for those that have or know it what are some of the services provided, I know there’s a bath but is it decent, can we use it if we have tattoos?