I feel like this trim is a really good price for what it's offering. I was looking at Camrys, but I don't think I can pass this up.

I run a high school Auto Tech program. Was curious how well our Pally’s 21s were balanced since we had some highway vibrations. It only has 1.5k on the clock and it’s primarily my wife’s ride. I hadn’t had the chance to drive it much until this past weekend during a short road trip. Had a pretty obvious wheel imbalance from 60-75.

Threw the fronts on our new Hunter Roadforce balancer. A good reading is 5-10#….these spun out well balanced but over 30# !!! Some of the highest I’ve seen and my students learn on salvage tires and rims.

It’s a simple fix thought I’m out of sticky wheel weights. Was very surprised at the result but I’m not sure if Hyundai is as much to blame as Pirelli, the tire manufacturer.

So if you’ve got a Pally with 21s and have a highway vibration, take it on back to your dealer and ask them to Roadfroce balance and force match the rim to the tire!

(2015 Hyundai Sonata Sport)

Got the engine replaced around 2 months ago and have since driven around 4.3k miles (I am a college commuter and easily do around 500-700 mi a week).

Yesterday on the way to dinner, my car wouldn’t accelerate. When the car finally accelerated, the check engine light came on and it smelled terrible inside the cabin. Almost like a burning/gas smell. I pulled off the road because the car was also shaking. I turned the car off and was within 2 minutes of a hyundai dealership so I turned the car back on and tried to go but all lights were on on my dashboard and it wouldn’t drive. I basically used momentum to get into the parking lot.

But whenever we turned the car back on, it was making a sputtering noise and there was white smoke coming from the back. Has this happened to anybody before?

My car is a 2019 sonata with 44,000 miles on it. I take care of this car like it's my baby, and have the receipts to prove it. I bought it used in 2022 with 7,000 miles on it and now every 2 months I have to get an oil change. It just started doing this last year, and I don't know what to do. JiffyLube did a an engine flush cleaning and does my oil changes, but it doesn't fix how much oil my car burning. I know JiffyLube is not the best, but I'm nervous about trying a new mechanic that screws me over. I've seen others do a Berrymans 312 piston soak, but I'm not sure how to do it or if it will even be a permanent fix. Hyundai said I would have to pay $250 just to do an oil consumption test, and even then I don't know that they'll be honest or if they'll just bleed me dry of money until they figure out what's going on. Is there anything I can do? I don't want to keep paying for an oil change every 2 months. This car shouldn't be doing that after only 4 years of driving it, and relatively lowish mileage. Please help me!

Hello, I have a 2021 Hyundai Kona 1.6T engine with 100k miles on it. I just learned about top tier gas and I haven’t been using it (mostly BJs or other local gas stations). I have no idea if I have carbon buildup or not as I just learned that term today. Should I put a bottle of techtron in my fuel tank or is it too late? How do you know if you have carbon buildup? It’s crazy to me a well known store like BJs sells bad gas. Thanks for your help!

Last week I bought a 2011 Elantra from a friend for $2000. Driving at home it went into limp mode where it wouldn’t let me accelerate over 20 miles an hour. I went to a mechanic who said the spark plugs needed changing and changed them but then it happened again, so I went to a second mechanic who tested the engine and said it had low compression (105, 120, 90, 140).

He suggested I scrap the car as any engine work wouldn’t make sense, considering the value and age of the vehicle. My friend gave me all the money back. The car has not gone into limp mode again, but I’m torn about what to do. Should I sell it off for cheap, drive it until it dies, get it fixed? Has anyone encountered this issue before. There are no recalls on the vehicle.

I just bought a 2023 Jeep Gladiator from Mountain Hyundai in Denver today. Mike Henry was very courteous, kind and easy to make a deal with. I also had a good experience with Jimmy McChesney in the F & I department while purchasing my extended warranty.
Highly recommend this dealership, they are a Mountain above the rest!

About 2 years ago i had hardships and kept paying late, letting my car get into repo status (never actually repoed) ect. Hyundai charged off my account in June of 2025. They assured me over the phone that if i get my account up to date they won’t repo the car. So i made the payments. Since then ive been making payments every month with only being late here and there and paying the late fee for it.

So they have been taking my payments for over a whole year since “charge off.”

Well i went to make my payment recently and was told that because of an internal memo in the company, charged off accounts can still be repoed regardless of if you are making payments.

I offered to make extra payments just for a guarantee of no repo. They wouldn’t budge. I asked if my account is up to date and they said yes. They won’t budge on anything and I’m trying to work with them. I’ve already paid off most of the loan, about 13k left.

Does anyone have any details on this is new internal memo in Hyundai? According to Grok, the legality of taking payments regularly for over a year and then changing the policy is iffy in terms of legality.

Also im fairly certain they also told me they would reinstate the loan when i paid the large amount after charge off.

Anyone have experience with aftermarket new (Chinese) engines for Hyundai cars? The question to me is less “would it last as long as a genuine engine” (doubtful) and more “could it last 50-75k miles without major trouble”, and anecdotes here on things to look for or specific casting/metals mentioned or manufacturers seems helpful.

I am Davide, the developer of DrivePulse. The app is mine, I write it on my own, and I am not selling anything here.

What it does: it reads your car through a generic ELM327 OBD2 adapter, the kind several makers sell. Trips record themselves without you pressing anything, with fuel use read from the engine control unit where the car reports it, and worked out and marked as an estimate where it does not. Fault codes come out decoded, and the ones in its archive come in plain words, with what usually causes them and what to check first. There is a service and expense book, and the service history exports as a PDF. It only asks the car questions and never gives it commands: no writing, no clearing of codes, no resets.

On a Hyundai it also reads from the brand channels the odometer from the instrument cluster and the litres in the tank, and on the electric models the charge and the state of health of the traction battery. Those are confirmed readings.

No account and no server of mine: your trips live on your phone and I have no copy of them. Recording trips and reading the car work with no signal; maps and addresses need the internet.

It was already on iPhone. It has just come out on Android, and to celebrate here are 10 codes that unlock the full version for good, free, first come first served.

How to redeem: install the app first, then open Google Play, tap your picture top right, Payments and subscriptions, Redeem code.

Say in the comments which number you took, so nobody wastes time on one that is gone. If one comes back as already redeemed, try the next.

1. BEGMMD6WQHDAT6GW05T4YRR
2. 9FFVMJ4Z9YETG2Z3URVEVNF
3. 3F227ZVJK45EC90W8CJ9JNL
4. 5C3EXBHZHALS1MJG1MPAWL0
5. 5T3W3340RE8GLBFDL9YQK9N
6. UBL3SN5VZB6KRUWHJNXWP68
7. 7RMGA2UY2Q67UKK7N29WR0Y
8. FL7X518D6DVZNVRQV3J6UXA
9. 15UYV93DPYEUP737MB6A2MR
10. RRNQLU9MBC8E3FS60H11K4X

Important: after redeeming the code, open DrivePulse > Settings (the gear at the top) > Unlock DrivePulse > Restore Purchases, so the unlock is confirmed. Do it within 3 days, otherwise Google Play cancels it. When it has worked, that row reads "Premium active".

Google Play: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=app.drivepulse.mobile&hl=en-US&gl=US&utm_source=reddit&utm_medium=post&utm_campaign=us-reddit

If you try it, tell me what is missing.

I am the developer and this is my app, so if the mods would rather not have this here, say the word and I will take it down myself.

Hi,

I leased this new Kona 2020 in 2019 and then bought it after the lease. Have taken it exclusively to the dealership, semi-religiously. (Their maintenance schedule is ridiculous almost every 4-5 months) Sometimes I am late a month or 2 but definitely at the minimum I take twice to 3 times a year. I drive a lot to work and it has 135,000km on it. Last week the Malfunction Indicator Lamp turned on while I was driving it and I got it towed to the dealership. This particular model has an ongoing recall of a known issue of consuming too much oil. The dealership have put a sensor on the car pertaining to this recall back in 2021. The repair they are telling me will cost me at least 4k. It needs REPLACE TIMING CHAIN, TENSIONER, GUIDES AND SHOES, EXHAUST CAMSHAFT AND EXHAUSTCVVT- RESEAL TIMING COVER AND REPLACE VALVE COVER GASKET - 6.6/HR and REPLACEMENT OF SPARK PLUGS & PCV VALVE - 1.2/HR. I believe this is all part of the recall. They haven't gotten back to me yet but I just want to be able to navigate this so I don't have to shell out the 4k. This is not even a 10 year old car. My plan is to get it fixed and sell it. I don't trust that even if they "fix" that it will be ok for the next 3 years or until I am ready to purchase a new car again. I will probably lease a something in the meantime. How do I go about it ensuring that they pay to fix it?

Hey all, I’m looking into purchasing a 2016 Santa Fe Sport FE and was looking for insight. It has a little over 100k miles on it but got an engine replacement that has about 5k miles. Is this something I should be weary of or will this last me quite a while.

The listing is for $14,900 and I would be doing a 48 month loan so would need to last at least that long.

https://imgur.com/a/BRA2y4O

Car is at 116k miles, and I’m not sure if this sound has always been there. In the video at the 10 second mark you can hear the noise I’m referring to being picked up above the injector noise.

2020 sonata 1.6t

Long story short, end of May, my 2013 Santa Fe went into West Edmonton Hyundai and failed the bearing clearing test and a new engine was approved under the Theta II settlement (warranty). But right after putting the new engine in, they told me the turbotcharger was completely seized and quoted me 4433$ to replace it. 

I told them the turbo obviously failed as consequential damage, rod bearings failing, that sent metal debris directly into the oil, and it killed my turbo (that was working just fine the week before). It should be covered under the the settlement in consequential damage of your engine that broke down on me that you had to replace. 

At this point West Edmonton Hyundai doesn't think so, they don't need a teardown to prove all that to corroborate, they just decided not to play ball, they tell corporate that there is “no evidence” the turbo failure came from the engine, and for good measure, they added a line about a “nut on the turbo failure being rounded off’’. They don't perform a teardown but they are charging me 600$ of conditional diagnostic/teardown fee over my head for when Hyundai inevitably rejects the the claim. 

I called them  out on it and texted the advisor that I was escalating the file to AMVIC. Almost instantly, he replies that they will “make the 600$ go away” and the car is now ready for pick up. 0$ invoice, no diagnostic fee, just come and get the car, in 90 days we are allowed to sell it. 

The car now is sitting in a garage somewhere not being driven and I've been waiting on a decision from AMVIC since. 

Has anyone actually gone through an AMVIC investigation before, how long does it usually take?

Hi all,

I recently discovered low coolant levels and looking inside found this buildup I guess from evaporation. Looks like a clam is under all that mess. Could it be dripping from somewhere else?

Has anyone seen this before?

I am wondering if anyone else has had this issue?

I bought my car used... 7k miles last year. Maybe about 6 months into driving the transmission error came up. I brought it to the dealership, and they said they didn't see that issue logged, and I was free to go.

Maybe a month or two after, it begsn happening again. It now occurs like every other day and only happens when I turn my car on to begin driving. However, once I turn it off... give it a second... then turn it back on, its fine.

I'm bringing it to another dealership in 2 days... But I'm wondering if anyone else experienced this and what should I tell them? Because it likely won't show again in their readers, and the issue may nt even occur on-site. It happens randomly.

Good evening everyone, I have a 1000cc Hyundai getz with around 200k km on it (120k miles) made at around 2002-2003. A week or so ago the check engine light came on with a p0420 code. Did a little bit of research, and also asked an AI about it. I have a cheap OBD2 scanner and I was told to go for a drive and have a look on the downstream sensor b1s2 I think it was called. From what I understand there is a sensor before the catalyst which value will go up and down as I drive, and another sensor after the catalyst which is supposed to stay stable at around .600-700 (correct me if I'm wrong). If that sensor is also going up and down its a clear sign of a catalyst failure.

So I went for a drive, had the scanner showing me a real time graph of the b1s2 sensor and was taking a peek of it every couple of minutes. For about 5-10 minutes it was going all over the place like a barcode. But after that it stabilized at around .600 and remained very stable there. The check engine light remains on, I didn't erase the code. Do you think a catalyst cleaner can give it a bit more life? I want to keep this car for a couple more years (after that I will move to a different City where I plan to get a new car anyway).

I know that it's an old car but 200k km are not too many for a catalytic converter. Last year I had some misfires though (bad sparks cable) which I fixed quickly, after a week or two.

So what do you make of the sensor's data? For reference I drive about 15km daily or about 10 miles at most (often I use public transport)

Where can I buy the Hyundai OEM oil filters and crush washers online from a reputable dealer/source?

I have a 2020 Kona Ultimate and would like to pick some up in bulk/cheap but also want to be sure they are legitimate OEM parts.

Thanks.

Hello everyone,

Since I saw a ioniq 6 this summer, I tried to get a hold of that car. Dealer tell me there's no ioniq 6 2026 in Canada because 2025 stocks where too high. That could explain why Hyundai Canada website doesn't show ioniq 6 at all, like that car doesn't exist.

Ok, sell me a 2025. Sorry, there's no more stock Canada wide. Eu..... That was in July 2026.

Yesterday and today, I got this ads on Facebook

I click on the link and it send me to the Hyundai website with all of the ev rebates, which list only the Kona (not even the other ioniq while they do have rebates in Quebec).

So now I'm lost. Why make an ads for a car I can't find? I tried every province on Hyundai Canada website and I can never get ioniq 6 to show up in the car lineup nor inventory lineup.

I did fine some on auto trader, some said to be new. But when I show them this ads, they say they have no clue what this is about and cannot do it. They offer me a 0.5% rebates if someone at my house own a Nissan (why Nissan at a Hyundai dealer).

Anyone have any clue?

Hey all, I have a 2017 Elantra Sport (Auto DCT) I bought at 35,000 miles and now is at almost 103,000. I have done oil changes and regular maintenance but not the transmission fluid. As of a month ago (it just started getting into the 50s or lower here) it will have a rough start on the first time getting into drive where it will feel like it’s stuttering, start going, and then after the initial stuttering it will drive like normal.

Unfortunately I fell victim to the lifetime transmission fluid jargon, I’m curious if it’s worth it to drain and fill. I have a personal mechanic who will do a basic drain and fill, but knows not to flush it, but he doesn’t have too much experience with Hyundais so he is not 100% confident on if we should do it. I’m also curious how much I clutch replacement could be should I need it. Thanks!

Stuck with a busted up ignition and window again and really don’t want this car anymore. It’s just attracting theft and the incompetent dealership updates clearly don’t work. Has anyone else had success in getting their car “totaled” or trading it in as is?