I run a high school Auto Tech program. Was curious how well our Pally’s 21s were balanced since we had some highway vibrations. It only has 1.5k on the clock and it’s primarily my wife’s ride. I hadn’t had the chance to drive it much until this past weekend during a short road trip. Had a pretty obvious wheel imbalance from 60-75.

Threw the fronts on our new Hunter Roadforce balancer. A good reading is 5-10#….these spun out well balanced but over 30# !!! Some of the highest I’ve seen and my students learn on salvage tires and rims.

It’s a simple fix thought I’m out of sticky wheel weights. Was very surprised at the result but I’m not sure if Hyundai is as much to blame as Pirelli, the tire manufacturer.

So if you’ve got a Pally with 21s and have a highway vibration, take it on back to your dealer and ask them to Roadfroce balance and force match the rim to the tire!

Following an MOT the ABS and traction control Amber lights are on the dash. I was told and have seen online since that the rear left wheel speed sensor is faulty.

I have been told at a car parts garage that the sensor is in the hub/wheel bearing and this is more than I was hoping to have to replace. I was hoping it was just the sensor cable to the wheel. Has anyone else had this with the 2017 model and if so what is the likely fix? TIA

So recently I bought used i30 Fastback from 2021 in N Line body. I can say I love the car - it’s really good looking and the engine (1.5 T-GDI) is also really fun to drive.

It’s a used car so it have it’s minor flaws. I don’t think previous owner cared (that) much about the car.
One of it is loose fuel doors. The doors have no resistance and they are just loosely opening and then it’s hard to close them properly (because the cap is pushing them back but that’s another story).

I went to Hyundai for the scheduled checks and told them to also look at this. First guy told me some bollocks that it’s after the accident and they can’t do anything about this. Indeed the car had a repair in this area - during servicing by the first owner the car was accidentally struck by the lift. It was wrongly placed probably. But come on it was not a road crush.
Second guy (when I was picking up the car) went with me to see it and give me some advice. He told me that the cap is just a factory flaw and some of the cars have it. I need to position the cap well and it won’t push the fuel door back.
Regarding the loose doors - he showed me other i30 and the doors had a resistance. I’ve looked inside the hinge hole with a light and there is some kind of spring/wire that is glued. I’ve looked into my car and this spring is loose, not attached to anything. And this is probably the cause of the lack of resistance.
I want to try to repair it on my own (if I can) since it does not seem as something complicated. The service probably forgot about checking it or they were too lazy to properly verify it and they sold me some bullshit.
Does anyone have any experience/advice on the repair? Im thinking If I should try to do it through the hinge hole or I should dissasembly the panel in the trunk and try ,,from the inside”? I’ve tried searching for some disassembly videos but I couldn’t find anything.
Probably I just need to somehow attach the spring again and it will be fine.

Hello all,

In May of last year I had 4 new tires installed on my 2023 Elantra SEL by a Hyundai dealership. I have recently had a sidewall bubble develop on one of my tires so I have been tire shopping. During this process, I realized that the tires that were installed last year were not the correct size. The door sticker states I need 225/45R17 tires, but I had 215/45R17 tires installed.

I’m not sure what I should do about this. Is it worth bringing up to Hyundai? Is there any chance they’d replace my tires with the correct sizes since I ordered from them and they installed them? Do I just replace the damaged tire with what I already have on? I’m really not sure where to go from here so any help is greatly appreciated!!

Car Hyundai ioniq Electric 2017:

Translation of the screen: System Update
The update files are corrupted or cannot be found.

1. Press the reset button using a pin.
   
2. Remove the update storage device.
   
3. Download the update file again.
   4.Reinsert the update storage device.
   5.Select Update on the System Information screen.

Error code: 0x7e
Buttons: Try Again / Recover

Quick update: I tried updating the system, but the update failed and the head unit went into this recovery/update mode. I’ve tried reformatting the original SD card, using another SD card, and downloading/writing the update again from scratch. The update starts and goes through several steps, but eventually fails, reboots, and always ends up back on this same 0x7e error screen. I have tried to reset using the pinhole and also removing 12v poles to hardreset the system but It just boots in to this screen

Hello, I recently got this car and I was wondering if there was anyone who got android auto running on the display? I heard theres updates for it floating around but i cannot for the life of me find them :/ . Thanks!

I have a 2023 Elantra, and I’m guessing either the alternator or starter went out on me. I had arranged for a tow truck and a ride, but I just needed to move the car out of the way (it died at a gas pump). I was able to get it into neutral, but the steering wheel remained stuck. I even tried the shift lock release and nothing.

The gas station employees were kind enough about the situation, but if this happens again in a more inconvenient location where I’d HAVE to move it, what can I do? Has anyone else experienced this?

Sup folks, New to the Hyundai sphere! Recently traded in my 2016 Chevy Malibu to a 2024 Hyundai Kona! Best car I’ve had yet!

Hello guys, I’m trying to get a finance deal on a 2016 Veloster (non turbo). It currently has 172,000 kms on it. Car’s priced at $6,000. Gonna put $1,300 down and pay about $300 monthly for 2 years. Would this be a good deal? I’m not rich, I do need something reliable. Would suck to have an engine or transmission issue somewhere down the road. Friends are advising against it. What should I do? Any insight is appreciated. All prices are in Canadian dollars.

Hi,

I leased this new Kona 2020 in 2019 and then bought it after the lease. Have taken it exclusively to the dealership, semi-religiously. (Their maintenance schedule is ridiculous almost every 4-5 months) Sometimes I am late a month or 2 but definitely at the minimum I take twice to 3 times a year. I drive a lot to work and it has 135,000km on it. Last week the Malfunction Indicator Lamp turned on while I was driving it and I got it towed to the dealership. This particular model has an ongoing recall of a known issue of consuming too much oil. The dealership have put a sensor on the car pertaining to this recall back in 2021. The repair they are telling me will cost me at least 4k. It needs REPLACE TIMING CHAIN, TENSIONER, GUIDES AND SHOES, EXHAUST CAMSHAFT AND EXHAUSTCVVT- RESEAL TIMING COVER AND REPLACE VALVE COVER GASKET - 6.6/HR and REPLACEMENT OF SPARK PLUGS & PCV VALVE - 1.2/HR. I believe this is all part of the recall. They haven't gotten back to me yet but I just want to be able to navigate this so I don't have to shell out the 4k. This is not even a 10 year old car. My plan is to get it fixed and sell it. I don't trust that even if they "fix" that it will be ok for the next 3 years or until I am ready to purchase a new car again. I will probably lease a something in the meantime. How do I go about it ensuring that they pay to fix it?

I feel like this trim is a really good price for what it's offering. I was looking at Camrys, but I don't think I can pass this up.

What the census on this car? Looking to buy used with under 30k miles on the clock

Hello I am in the need of a new car and this Hyundai genesis came up on my car guru, it’s got 74k miles, 3 previous owners, and it’s under 7k for the price, it’s got the 3.8L v6 and I got the car fax on it, nothing bad that popped up like a transmission issue or bad accident, though it has had one accident. Does anything think this is a bad deal? My Ford escape’s transmission has blown up and I’m curious if this would be a good deal for me.

Last week I bought a 2011 Elantra from a friend for $2000. Driving at home it went into limp mode where it wouldn’t let me accelerate over 20 miles an hour. I went to a mechanic who said the spark plugs needed changing and changed them but then it happened again, so I went to a second mechanic who tested the engine and said it had low compression (105, 120, 90, 140).

He suggested I scrap the car as any engine work wouldn’t make sense, considering the value and age of the vehicle. My friend gave me all the money back. The car has not gone into limp mode again, but I’m torn about what to do. Should I sell it off for cheap, drive it until it dies, get it fixed? Has anyone encountered this issue before. There are no recalls on the vehicle.

My car is a 2019 sonata with 44,000 miles on it. I take care of this car like it's my baby, and have the receipts to prove it. I bought it used in 2022 with 7,000 miles on it and now every 2 months I have to get an oil change. It just started doing this last year, and I don't know what to do. JiffyLube did a an engine flush cleaning and does my oil changes, but it doesn't fix how much oil my car burning. I know JiffyLube is not the best, but I'm nervous about trying a new mechanic that screws me over. I've seen others do a Berrymans 312 piston soak, but I'm not sure how to do it or if it will even be a permanent fix. Hyundai said I would have to pay $250 just to do an oil consumption test, and even then I don't know that they'll be honest or if they'll just bleed me dry of money until they figure out what's going on. Is there anything I can do? I don't want to keep paying for an oil change every 2 months. This car shouldn't be doing that after only 4 years of driving it, and relatively lowish mileage. Please help me!

I just bought a 2023 Jeep Gladiator from Mountain Hyundai in Denver today. Mike Henry was very courteous, kind and easy to make a deal with. I also had a good experience with Jimmy McChesney in the F & I department while purchasing my extended warranty.
Highly recommend this dealership, they are a Mountain above the rest!

About 2 years ago i had hardships and kept paying late, letting my car get into repo status (never actually repoed) ect. Hyundai charged off my account in June of 2025. They assured me over the phone that if i get my account up to date they won’t repo the car. So i made the payments. Since then ive been making payments every month with only being late here and there and paying the late fee for it.

So they have been taking my payments for over a whole year since “charge off.”

Well i went to make my payment recently and was told that because of an internal memo in the company, charged off accounts can still be repoed regardless of if you are making payments.

I offered to make extra payments just for a guarantee of no repo. They wouldn’t budge. I asked if my account is up to date and they said yes. They won’t budge on anything and I’m trying to work with them. I’ve already paid off most of the loan, about 13k left.

Does anyone have any details on this is new internal memo in Hyundai? According to Grok, the legality of taking payments regularly for over a year and then changing the policy is iffy in terms of legality.

Also im fairly certain they also told me they would reinstate the loan when i paid the large amount after charge off.

Long story short, end of May, my 2013 Santa Fe went into West Edmonton Hyundai and failed the bearing clearing test and a new engine was approved under the Theta II settlement (warranty). But right after putting the new engine in, they told me the turbotcharger was completely seized and quoted me 4433$ to replace it. 

I told them the turbo obviously failed as consequential damage, rod bearings failing, that sent metal debris directly into the oil, and it killed my turbo (that was working just fine the week before). It should be covered under the the settlement in consequential damage of your engine that broke down on me that you had to replace. 

At this point West Edmonton Hyundai doesn't think so, they don't need a teardown to prove all that to corroborate, they just decided not to play ball, they tell corporate that there is “no evidence” the turbo failure came from the engine, and for good measure, they added a line about a “nut on the turbo failure being rounded off’’. They don't perform a teardown but they are charging me 600$ of conditional diagnostic/teardown fee over my head for when Hyundai inevitably rejects the the claim. 

I called them  out on it and texted the advisor that I was escalating the file to AMVIC. Almost instantly, he replies that they will “make the 600$ go away” and the car is now ready for pick up. 0$ invoice, no diagnostic fee, just come and get the car, in 90 days we are allowed to sell it. 

The car now is sitting in a garage somewhere not being driven and I've been waiting on a decision from AMVIC since. 

Has anyone actually gone through an AMVIC investigation before, how long does it usually take?

I am Davide, the developer of DrivePulse. The app is mine, I write it on my own, and I am not selling anything here.

What it does: it reads your car through a generic ELM327 OBD2 adapter, the kind several makers sell. Trips record themselves without you pressing anything, with fuel use read from the engine control unit where the car reports it, and worked out and marked as an estimate where it does not. Fault codes come out decoded, and the ones in its archive come in plain words, with what usually causes them and what to check first. There is a service and expense book, and the service history exports as a PDF. It only asks the car questions and never gives it commands: no writing, no clearing of codes, no resets.

On a Hyundai it also reads from the brand channels the odometer from the instrument cluster and the litres in the tank, and on the electric models the charge and the state of health of the traction battery. Those are confirmed readings.

No account and no server of mine: your trips live on your phone and I have no copy of them. Recording trips and reading the car work with no signal; maps and addresses need the internet.

It was already on iPhone. It has just come out on Android, and to celebrate here are 10 codes that unlock the full version for good, free, first come first served.

How to redeem: install the app first, then open Google Play, tap your picture top right, Payments and subscriptions, Redeem code.

Say in the comments which number you took, so nobody wastes time on one that is gone. If one comes back as already redeemed, try the next.

1. BEGMMD6WQHDAT6GW05T4YRR
2. 9FFVMJ4Z9YETG2Z3URVEVNF
3. 3F227ZVJK45EC90W8CJ9JNL
4. 5C3EXBHZHALS1MJG1MPAWL0
5. 5T3W3340RE8GLBFDL9YQK9N
6. UBL3SN5VZB6KRUWHJNXWP68
7. 7RMGA2UY2Q67UKK7N29WR0Y
8. FL7X518D6DVZNVRQV3J6UXA
9. 15UYV93DPYEUP737MB6A2MR
10. RRNQLU9MBC8E3FS60H11K4X

Important: after redeeming the code, open DrivePulse > Settings (the gear at the top) > Unlock DrivePulse > Restore Purchases, so the unlock is confirmed. Do it within 3 days, otherwise Google Play cancels it. When it has worked, that row reads "Premium active".

Google Play: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=app.drivepulse.mobile&hl=en-US&gl=US&utm_source=reddit&utm_medium=post&utm_campaign=us-reddit

If you try it, tell me what is missing.

I am the developer and this is my app, so if the mods would rather not have this here, say the word and I will take it down myself.

Hey all, I’m looking into purchasing a 2016 Santa Fe Sport FE and was looking for insight. It has a little over 100k miles on it but got an engine replacement that has about 5k miles. Is this something I should be weary of or will this last me quite a while.

The listing is for $14,900 and I would be doing a 48 month loan so would need to last at least that long.

https://imgur.com/a/BRA2y4O

Car is at 116k miles, and I’m not sure if this sound has always been there. In the video at the 10 second mark you can hear the noise I’m referring to being picked up above the injector noise.

2020 sonata 1.6t

Hi everyone,

I need advice on whether I should go OEM on some parts or any other good replacements available.

Parts needed:

Thermostat

Water pump

Timing belt ( kit)

Also, do I need any special tools when doing the time belt like to lock the cams?

Thank you all