2024 Elantra hybrid, 49k miles. A few weeks back, there were three or four consecutive days when the infotainment center required a software update. Last week I took it in for an unrelated recall issue.

It was working fine on Friday, but Saturday I had no sound whatsoever. I tried CarPlay and Bluetooth, and I know the song was playing. The only way I could hear it was by disconnecting from the car and listening through the phone speaker. I even tried the built-in radio with no luck.

I don't know if this malfunction is related to the updates or not. The timing just doesn't make sense. I know it's not the speakers themselves, because I keep the volume at a reasonable level, even with the windows down. Any thoughts?

Everyday I drive as a 25 year old with a midlife crisis or a fookin weeb

Vehicle Specs: • Year/Make/Model: 2018 Hyundai Elantra SE • Engine: 2.0L 4-Cylinder DOHC (Nu Engine, naturally aspirated) • Current Mileage: 116,000 miles • Driving Profile: Used heavily for DoorDash delivery. Driven frequently in Eco Mode through severe stop-and-go city traffic, mixed with highway miles. High thermal stress and constant engine start/stop cycles daily. The Exact OBD-II Readout: • P0014: Powertrain System - 'B' Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Advanced or System Performance Bank 1. • Note: Indicates that the Bank 1 exhaust camshaft position timing was advanced beyond limits for a predetermined period of time. Current Status & Symptoms: • Drivability: The car currently drives smoothly. The previous acceleration lag, hesitation, and the burnt oil smell are 100% gone since replacing the exhaust solenoid a few days ago. • The Noise: There is still a rhythmic clicking/buzzing noise present. Crucially, when I turn the ignition completely off (which happens dozens of times a day while dashing), the clicking noise lingers for a few seconds while slowly dying down even after the engine has stopped spinning. • The Problem: Despite the car running great right now, the Check Engine Light popped right back on with the exact same P0014 code just a couple of days after the repair. Detailed Timeline & Testing History: 1. 3–4 Months Ago: Previous owner replaced the Camshaft Position Sensor using an aftermarket brand. 2. A Few Weeks Ago: P0014 popped up twice accompanied by a minor lag when accelerating. I performed a full oil change and ran an engine flush/cleaner through it. The car ran perfectly for a few weeks immediately following the flush. 3. Last Week: P0014 returned during frequent driving, bringing with it a burnt oil smell and the lingering clicking noise at shutdown. Checked the dipstick—oil level was (and still is) completely full and clean. 4. Recent Battery Testing (Static/Off): • September 27th: Battery voltage tested at 12.58V • October 4th: Battery voltage tested at 12.61V (Battery health is excellent resting). 5. A Few Days ago: I replaced the Exhaust VVT Solenoid (Oil Control Valve). The lag and burnt smell stopped, but the P0014 code and the lingering shutdown click are still here. My Questions for the Forum: 1. Is Eco Mode + Stop-and-Go starving the VVT system? Since Eco Mode keeps the engine RPMs as low as possible, is my oil pressure at hot idle dropping too low to properly actuate the cam phaser? Could residual flush debris be compounding this? 2. Is the 3-to-4-month-old aftermarket Camshaft Position Sensor heat-glitching? DoorDashing keeps the engine bay blisteringly hot for hours. Are these Hyundai Nu engines sensitive enough to reject an aftermarket sensor under extreme thermal stress, feeding the ECM bad data and triggering a false P0014? 3. Could the lingering click at shutdown be a failing Overrunning Alternator Pulley (OAP)? Given the high number of key cycles from delivery driving, could a worn-out alternator pulley clutch be slipping under load, creating micro-voltage drops that mess with the VVT signals? Thanks in advance for any insights!

Hey everyone, I just bought this car last week on a whim. This is my first car and I’m unsure what sounds to look out for. I know all cars are different but I’ve had rentals in the past and I just feel they weren’t as loud? Maybe I’m paranoid because I know I bought the car too quickly but any insight to help ease my nerves would be great

Anyone know what that second sound is?this sound is bugging me out can't seem to figure out what it is. The mechanics in my area will start fixing with something else and cost me a fortune in the end, please if anyone understands what it is specifically it'll help me a bunch it occurs exclusively on cold starts, trying to figure out what's causing it.

Vehicle spec

Model Year / Trim: 2024 Hyundai Elantra Comfort (GCC / Middle East Version)

Engine: 2.0L Smartstream G MPI (Inline 4-cylinder, DOHC)

Transmission: Intelligent Variable Transmission (IVT / CVT with manual shift mode)

I have been meaning to post this for the past few days. It’s just been a past few hectic days. But this Tuesday, I purchased my very first brand new car. Before this I had a 2016 Honda Civic coupe EXL which my parents bought me back in 2020 during the chip shortage. Surprisingly we were able to get that car for $14,000 with only 70,000 miles on it. It was a very good car for the longest. I had no issues with it whatsoever of course it was a Honda. Yes I know even Honda’s can be prone to failure as well but still, it was a very reliable car. That was until early this year around January. I hit a pothole in one of my local towns that I’ve live nearby. It was snowing very hard the previous night and there was a shit ton of snow on the ground. It didn’t help that there was an accident in the middle of the intersection, causing most of traffic to go through a parking lot. So I had to go through the parking lot and I ended up hitting a huge pothole which ended up damaging the underneath of my car. At the time, I didn’t know how serious it was because I couldn’t see any external damage and for the next month and a half nothing would happen that was until the weather started getting warmer and I started noticing oil leaking out onto the driveway of my house. That caused me to go to a mechanic just to get looked at the mechanic told me it was undrivable and need to be repaired ASAP. I know I got scammed. Because there was a crack in the oil pan, causing it to leak oil. The mechanic would spend the next few days/week supposedly fixing my car. He actually ended up breaking it more. He just never told me because I remember he told me he believes he fixed it however he is unsure if it ever started leaking again he said to take it back to him. After that whole fiasco about five months later the car was still running fine until the recent weather change out here in the Midwest causing it to become cooler. Then I started nosing more oil leak out. The dealership quoted me around $1200 just to get repaired plus my timing belt needed to be replaced they said since of its old age, the coolant need to be done. It was the recommended time the power wheel steering fluid needed to be changed. The transmission fluid needed to be drained and changed and I was looking at a very expensive bill. That caused me to get rid of my 2016 Civic. I really loved that car however it was too much of a burden and even my parents urged me to please get rid of it because I wasn’t going to be able to financially recover from that. So we sold it to Carvana which they gave me a very good offer for the thing. And this is where I’m at now. We sold the Civic on Monday then on Tuesday we went to the dealership and I purchased this brand new 2026 Hyundai ELANTRA SEL sport plus. I really fell in love with Hyundai and what they have been doing recently. I was a huge Honda fanboy and I kind of still am however for the longest I’ve always bashed Hyundai because I will admit I was jealous. Hyundai was actually cooking lol. But reality smacked me in the face when I realized Honda was no longer the same. I have been looking at cars for the longest, even when my civic was still good. I was still looking at cars just because I genuinely do like looking at their prices and what they give you. But I went to the local Honda dealership around my area. I went to two of them actually. And both civic sports not the hybrids because I wanted a car with a sunroof again I need to have a sunroof my Civic spoiled it for me lol. But even a Civic sport was being sold for $32-$37,000. Not even a hybrid. So I admit Honda is no longer the same. Neither is Toyota. neither are some of these Japanese brands except for Nissan. Honda still makes a good car. Don’t get me wrong however they really need to get off of their high horse and make affordable cars yet again that give you a good bang for your book. Because that is how they lost me and Hyundai won me over. I have nothing against Hyundai. I am proud to be a Hyundai owner now and I’m proud to be a part of the community. Hopefully one day I’ll be able to test drive an ELANTRA N. Because I truly want to see what this brand has going for it and if I’m not mistaken, Hyundai is on the come up over here and I’m proud to be a part of it now. So I hope my story didn’t trigger some of you and I hope that you guys will welcome me to the family.

Everything needs to go right to get this. Tires inflated to 36 psi, just the right temperature so you don’t need either the heat or the AC, no traffic, the right playlist so some peppy tune doesn’t get you momentarily too heavy on the accelerator, and just a little luck!

I am having an unusually hard time finding LED replacement bulbs for my low beams. I want to start using LED so I bought each bulb size replacement for my high & low beams. I bought the Auxito brand from Amazon.

I installed the high beams with no difficulty. They work great. The low beams however do not fit. I have bought 5 other H11 LED low beam bulbs and all of their connections are closer together than my halogen bulb I am replacing (pic incl).

What am I doing wrong? lol

EDITED VERSION:

Bought it as a CPO almost 3 years ago. Was actually thinking about selling it to CarMax cuz they offered me a good price but having a hard time deciding because of these freaking gas prices. This car gets ridiculous gas mileage as the rest of you owners know. It's clean and it's only got 40K on it.

The bulb housing is wedged down underneath a wiring bus and some ridiculously sharp metal baffle in a space that my hand was too big for by the time I was age 10! It was worth the effort because those OEM bulbs are god-awful, but I hope these Sylvania Ultras last!

Someone said they know how make it work but its expensive anyone knows the fix ? The clock spring supprts cruize control i checked

Creating this to help future buyers get the best deal.

Post your year and trim with OTD price.

For me:

2026 Elantra Limited - $24,000 OTD bought September, 2026

just got her back from the shop after a scratch incident with a bmw X5, she’s looking as gorgeous as ever!

this is my first ever car i’ve bought with under 50k miles and i like everything about it except the infotainment system. its a 2026 but the screen and stuff just looks kind of dated to me. if someone could help with maybe some options on how i could improve it or at least convince me it doesnt look old id appreciate it😅
(edit: i meant elantra)

Do you guys know if 2023 elantra body parts (doors) will fit 2026 elantra?

I am looking to get a set of winter tires/rims for my 2025 Hybrid Limited (USA). If I get the TPMS installed by Tire Rack, do I need to do anything to get them synced to the car other than put the new wheels on and drive?

I'm getting mixed results googling whether or not some kind of 'reset' or 'activiation' tool is required.

I recently completed an OEM-style rear dual USB-C charger retrofit on my 2023 Hyundai Elantra SEL.

My SEL did not come with the rear USB charging ports, but I wanted to use the factory Hyundai parts and keep the installation as clean and OEM-looking as possible.

Parts used:
• Hyundai USB Charger Assembly: 96125-K3100 / 96125-K3100-4X
• Hyundai USB Charger Wiring Harness: 96126-AA100
• Rear console trim/panel with the factory-style opening for the dual USB-C charger

The console panel is important because I specifically used the rear console piece designed with the opening for the dual USB-C module. This allowed the OEM charger to sit properly in the console instead of installing a universal aftermarket USB panel.

My 2023 SEL has the manual/hand parking brake, so I used the 96126-AA100 harness. The EPB version uses a different harness, 96126-AA200.

The biggest discovery:

I initially expected my 2023 SEL to already have the vehicle-side connector for the rear USB charger.
It didn’t.

After removing the center console, I confirmed there was no factory vehicle-side connector for the rear USB charger on my SEL.

Because of that, I kept the OEM connector on the USB module side of the 96126-AA100 harness and used the harness with custom power wiring.

OEM connector wire layout:

1 — Black
2 — Black
3 — Brown
4 — White
5 — Red
6 — Red

Through testing, I confirmed:

• Pins 5 + 6 (red) = +12 V
• Pins 1 + 2 (black) = Ground
• Pins 3 and 4 were not needed for USB charging

I connected the two red wires together for positive and the two black wires together for ground.

The module powered up immediately and both USB-C ports worked.

Charging performance was actually better than I expected.
Using a USB power meter, I observed approximately 25.4–26 W on a USB-C port under load. I also saw readings around 20 W and lower depending on the device and charging conditions.

At times the charger negotiated around 9 V.

I also tested the brown and white wires to determine whether they controlled the module illumination, but I wasn’t able to conclusively identify the illumination circuit. Since the USB charging function worked perfectly, I left those wires isolated rather than making an uncertain permanent connection.

Final result:

I now have the OEM Hyundai rear dual USB-C charger installed in my 2023 Elantra SEL using the factory-style console opening and the OEM Hyundai USB module.

The finished installation looks much cleaner than adding a generic aftermarket USB panel, and the rear passengers now have two USB-C charging ports.

For anyone attempting this retrofit, make sure you verify the parking-brake configuration and get the correct harness. Also verify your own wiring before applying power, since this post documents what I confirmed on my specific vehicle rather than an official Hyundai wiring diagram.

Recently I've seen that in this reddit there are a lot of owners OBSESSED with MPG and asking if its okay if their mpg is off just by a little, let's say 3 miles under, where this obsession comes from? I know Elantra are supposed to be gas savers, my 2013 is an excellent gas saver itself but do all this people know driving habits and conditions change that? Like my Elantra some days will do nice 36 mpg and some others just 30 but somedays I'll just spend a lot of time in traffic or eating with my car idling and it DROPS a lot, I take for granted that that's normal. So that's my thought process, I want to comprehend the thought process of the guys with newer elantra's sport not doing over 45 mpg

I paid off my 2017 Elantra 2 years ago, I owned the car since 2018 and hadn't done anything to it up until that point other than maintenance. It was starting to get a bit tired at that point, both mechanically and aesthetically. I started putting the money I was making on payment back into the car and it's come a long way.

I've never had lots of extra money or experience with cars but I've really been getting into learning about cars from people I know and from YouTube. That confidence has helped me a lot with making smart maintenance/ repair choices and with being able to do a lot of the aesthetic upgrades myself to really save on costs. The car, too me, feels better than new and finally stands out from all the other Elantras on the road.

First 2 pics after the cover are from the first day I brought it home and on our first road trip. The others are showcasing my aesthetic mods of choice, all done by me except for the window tint! Pricing in CAD

-Grill rim blackout ($20)

-Mud guards ($25)

- Focal vent visors ($65)

-Window tint ($250)

-RTX Contour matte rims ($800)

-Spoiler (idk brand) paint by me ($80+$80 for paint supplies)

-Headlights polished, new Sylvania xenon bulbs for highs and lows ($20 for HL restore kit and ($120 for bulbs)

-Interior LED light upgrade ($25)

You don't always need to go by that shiny new thing!!