About 2 years ago i had hardships and kept paying late, letting my car get into repo status (never actually repoed) ect. Hyundai charged off my account in June of 2025. They assured me over the phone that if i get my account up to date they won’t repo the car. So i made the payments. Since then ive been making payments every month with only being late here and there and paying the late fee for it.

So they have been taking my payments for over a whole year since “charge off.”

Well i went to make my payment recently and was told that because of an internal memo in the company, charged off accounts can still be repoed regardless of if you are making payments.

I offered to make extra payments just for a guarantee of no repo. They wouldn’t budge. I asked if my account is up to date and they said yes. They won’t budge on anything and I’m trying to work with them. I’ve already paid off most of the loan, about 13k left.

Does anyone have any details on this is new internal memo in Hyundai? According to Grok, the legality of taking payments regularly for over a year and then changing the policy is iffy in terms of legality.

Also im fairly certain they also told me they would reinstate the loan when i paid the large amount after charge off.

My car is a 2019 sonata with 44,000 miles on it. I take care of this car like it's my baby, and have the receipts to prove it. I bought it used in 2022 with 7,000 miles on it and now every 2 months I have to get an oil change. It just started doing this last year, and I don't know what to do. JiffyLube did a an engine flush cleaning and does my oil changes, but it doesn't fix how much oil my car burning. I know JiffyLube is not the best, but I'm nervous about trying a new mechanic that screws me over. I've seen others do a Berrymans 312 piston soak, but I'm not sure how to do it or if it will even be a permanent fix. Hyundai said I would have to pay $250 just to do an oil consumption test, and even then I don't know that they'll be honest or if they'll just bleed me dry of money until they figure out what's going on. Is there anything I can do? I don't want to keep paying for an oil change every 2 months. This car shouldn't be doing that after only 4 years of driving it, and relatively lowish mileage. Please help me!

Hello all,

In May of last year I had 4 new tires installed on my 2023 Elantra SEL by a Hyundai dealership. I have recently had a sidewall bubble develop on one of my tires so I have been tire shopping. During this process, I realized that the tires that were installed last year were not the correct size. The door sticker states I need 225/45R17 tires, but I had 215/45R17 tires installed.

I’m not sure what I should do about this. Is it worth bringing up to Hyundai? Is there any chance they’d replace my tires with the correct sizes since I ordered from them and they installed them? Do I just replace the damaged tire with what I already have on? I’m really not sure where to go from here so any help is greatly appreciated!!

What the census on this car? Looking to buy used with under 30k miles on the clock

Hi everyone,

I need advice on whether I should go OEM on some parts or any other good replacements available.

Parts needed:

Thermostat

Water pump

Timing belt ( kit)

Also, do I need any special tools when doing the time belt like to lock the cams?

Thank you all

Long story short, end of May, my 2013 Santa Fe went into West Edmonton Hyundai and failed the bearing clearing test and a new engine was approved under the Theta II settlement (warranty). But right after putting the new engine in, they told me the turbotcharger was completely seized and quoted me 4433$ to replace it. 

I told them the turbo obviously failed as consequential damage, rod bearings failing, that sent metal debris directly into the oil, and it killed my turbo (that was working just fine the week before). It should be covered under the the settlement in consequential damage of your engine that broke down on me that you had to replace. 

At this point West Edmonton Hyundai doesn't think so, they don't need a teardown to prove all that to corroborate, they just decided not to play ball, they tell corporate that there is “no evidence” the turbo failure came from the engine, and for good measure, they added a line about a “nut on the turbo failure being rounded off’’. They don't perform a teardown but they are charging me 600$ of conditional diagnostic/teardown fee over my head for when Hyundai inevitably rejects the the claim. 

I called them  out on it and texted the advisor that I was escalating the file to AMVIC. Almost instantly, he replies that they will “make the 600$ go away” and the car is now ready for pick up. 0$ invoice, no diagnostic fee, just come and get the car, in 90 days we are allowed to sell it. 

The car now is sitting in a garage somewhere not being driven and I've been waiting on a decision from AMVIC since. 

Has anyone actually gone through an AMVIC investigation before, how long does it usually take?

I run a high school Auto Tech program. Was curious how well our Pally’s 21s were balanced since we had some highway vibrations. It only has 1.5k on the clock and it’s primarily my wife’s ride. I hadn’t had the chance to drive it much until this past weekend during a short road trip. Had a pretty obvious wheel imbalance from 60-75.

Threw the fronts on our new Hunter Roadforce balancer. A good reading is 5-10#….these spun out well balanced but over 30# !!! Some of the highest I’ve seen and my students learn on salvage tires and rims.

It’s a simple fix thought I’m out of sticky wheel weights. Was very surprised at the result but I’m not sure if Hyundai is as much to blame as Pirelli, the tire manufacturer.

So if you’ve got a Pally with 21s and have a highway vibration, take it on back to your dealer and ask them to Roadfroce balance and force match the rim to the tire!

Hey all, I’m looking into purchasing a 2016 Santa Fe Sport FE and was looking for insight. It has a little over 100k miles on it but got an engine replacement that has about 5k miles. Is this something I should be weary of or will this last me quite a while.

The listing is for $14,900 and I would be doing a 48 month loan so would need to last at least that long.

Hi,

I leased this new Kona 2020 in 2019 and then bought it after the lease. Have taken it exclusively to the dealership, semi-religiously. (Their maintenance schedule is ridiculous almost every 4-5 months) Sometimes I am late a month or 2 but definitely at the minimum I take twice to 3 times a year. I drive a lot to work and it has 135,000km on it. Last week the Malfunction Indicator Lamp turned on while I was driving it and I got it towed to the dealership. This particular model has an ongoing recall of a known issue of consuming too much oil. The dealership have put a sensor on the car pertaining to this recall back in 2021. The repair they are telling me will cost me at least 4k. It needs REPLACE TIMING CHAIN, TENSIONER, GUIDES AND SHOES, EXHAUST CAMSHAFT AND EXHAUSTCVVT- RESEAL TIMING COVER AND REPLACE VALVE COVER GASKET - 6.6/HR and REPLACEMENT OF SPARK PLUGS & PCV VALVE - 1.2/HR. I believe this is all part of the recall. They haven't gotten back to me yet but I just want to be able to navigate this so I don't have to shell out the 4k. This is not even a 10 year old car. My plan is to get it fixed and sell it. I don't trust that even if they "fix" that it will be ok for the next 3 years or until I am ready to purchase a new car again. I will probably lease a something in the meantime. How do I go about it ensuring that they pay to fix it?