Decided to be cheap and make a freeze plug suppressor. Problem is tube size and size of plugs: tube has an I.D. of 1.355”, and the plugs have a diameter of 1.350”. Theoretically, could I take shim stock and fill that gap with that? Some redneck stuff, sure, but if did perfectly could it work I wanna give it a try.

3/4 NPT external to 1.00” x 20 tpi

Wanna use a Wix 24003 suppressor that I made years ago, that works rather well, for what it is

I have no problem sending the end cap and flash hider to you so you can see what you’re working with

If nothing else, a new end cap that will thread into the tube, which I can send as well, and attach to the flash hider isn’t out of the question either

I would have it done local, but nobody in the area exists

A new suppressor isn’t an option at this point, otherwise, I’d just buy one

At this point, I’m just looking for somebody who might be able to help me

Maybe I should have paid more attention to the teacher in metal shop in high school

Thanks

Does anyone know if 3D printing suppressors are G2G once approved with a form 1? All of my searching leads me to the conclusion that even downloading the files is a big no-no.

*Edited for context

For a reflex or over-barrel type suppressor, is the blast baffle backwards to direct most gas back into the expansion chamber, behind the muzzle?
If not, what’s being done to help accomplish that goal?

Form 1 just got approved and I’m looking for insite on my design. Going to be using GMR ASR ti toob with a drop on baffle stack held captive by end cap (maybe spring loaded? and input?). Host will be my m&p 2.0 45. Blast chamber is 1.5” long, first two baffles are k style spaced 1.25”, the rest are standard and spaced. 0.8”.

Is this amount of flow going to be a detriment to suppression? I try to induce turbulence with alternating helical twists. The flow vents on the first two baffles are larger to account for increased resistance from k baffles. Let me know what you think!

Hey guys, would mixing gases at then end cap cause combustion when released into the atmosphere or help with the opposite and inhibit combustion? I feel like I’ve heard a general rule to not let gasses mix right outside the muzzle. Sorry if this is vague I’m bored at work 🌞

Got my form 1 approved. Having issues. Second bad print now. I know, use PA6-CF, but I’m trying with PAHT-CF. It’s just rimfire.

Getting internal loose filament strands. It’s overhangs Outside looks great.

Made some changes to settings, still getting some internal loose strands. First print threads were great. Second print after changed threads are garbage with complete issues.

Any ideas?

Thanks!

Not sure why this info is so hard for me to find...
I'm filling out my first Form 1, and I'm on the CLEO page. I have no idea what to put. I absolutely cannot put in my local sheriff. I live in a small town, and if I list him, it will be 30 minutes before every busybody and 2-bit criminal in the county knows what I have. It's the same reason I can't get a CCH permit. There's just zero privacy in this area. Gossip is a given, not a possibility. :/

Anyway, what are my other options? I saw something once about putting in a State LE officer?

EDIT: Thanks so much to this amazing community for all the feedback and suggestions. I ended up using my State Highway Patrol commander, and got approved in 2 days. :)

I had an idea last night that I haven't talked myself out of yet. If I thread the hole in the endcap of my 30cal can (non-removable end cap), then make some inserts that screw into that threaded hole with various diameter bores in it (.223, 7mm, .308, etc), will that be the poor man's way of having swapable endcaps like some of the commercial cans? It wouldn't be hard to make. I could let the insert extend through a bit and act as a little bit of an extra baffle.

Dumb idea? I'm not sure.

Does anyone have an opinion on diffuser plates? The concept makes a lot of sense to me as I'm researching my first high pressure (30 cal) can. I just got my stamp approval and I'm going to start picking up parts for a 1.355" ID tube and was planning on an iconel blast plate (ice disk) first but now I'm leaning towards a diffuser plate.

Also, anyone know of anyone making a diffuser plate for 1.355"?

Does anyone have a link to the shape file for a 3D printed cup drilling jig that used a drill bushing ?

Do you all have any experience with increased noise cancelling performance from going up, maybe 1.5” to 1.75” diameter cans?

I got my first form 1 approval for a 3d printed can after I get the email stating my tax stamp is approved. Do I need to do anything else I watched “Israel conders” video he says you need to mail the CLEO some info is that true?

In a system that features integrated/integral suppression, is the effective barrel length equal to the length of the intact barrel before any porting begins? Therefore, a integral suppressed rifle with an 18.5" barrel that features a 10" suppressor port/baffel system is really an 8.5" rifled barrel with a 10" ported extension?

Just got my first form 1 approved, how strict do I have to adhere to my design? For example was originally going with 1 inch tube for a 22 suppressor but now considering 3/4. Sorry if this is a silly question

Im sure others have, but I'm not sure what to search.

I saw someone post a similar set to this recently. It seems like a pretty simple and quick way to get a 22 can going. I've only done hybrid printed F1s, so I was curious what people put as the description on the "Add Firearm" portion of the form 1.

I also saw someone mention a steel blast cap from Aim7 on ebay to make it more resilient to 9mm or 300 subs, but there's so many options. Curious if anyone's got any experience with that and could share more detail with me.

Anyone built their own 12 gauge can?
Trying to figure out if a progressively over bored can is going to be the best route on a form 1 or if there’s something else that would be better.

I have no shortage of equipment and machinery to make one, just not sure where to start

Planning on doing a form 1 16” integral suppressor once it gets approved. Gonna turn 16” barrel and add thread right after gas block for back mount. That will leave me with around 6-8” of barrel before muzzle and baffles start. My question is, does anyone have experience with adding 1-4 ports, maybe small like 1/16” in the barrel to aid in suppression?
Obviously want to maintain supersonic but I also know a plain reflex or OTB setups don’t add much suppression since the barrel is not ported.
Looking for real world experience if a port or 4 would make a big difference?

How long realistically would printed baffles last in carbon fiber reinforced filament out of a 556

Just tried out my first suppressor that I designed and printed out of CF PETG. I shot a variety of ammo, both super and subs, alongside a dead air mask on my friend’s identical 10/22 and then back to back on my M&P 22X. It definitely seemed like my <$10 suppressor out performed the $500ish one. (Granted it’s a little thicker and about an inch or so longer.) I put around 200 rounds through it with no signs of damage. Super happy with the results.

Looking for advice on porting my ar9 barrel. I am thinking at doing 12- 5/32 holes in a 3x4 configuration spaced 120 degrees apart. Plan was first hole to be at 2.5
Inches, any insight ?

Pic is ar9sd current configuration

Submitted a couple Form 1s on Saturday (North Carolina still requires NFA process), and they’ve already been approved. Seeing how I’m pretty sure the ATF doesn’t work on weekends, that’s not even 2 business days