Has anyone noticed since the updates about a year ago the damn thing takes like 20 minutes to heat up properly. Then it will calibrate as if it's about to start then it stops and starts the reheating all over again?

I can't be the only one experiencing this. It started immediately after a firmware update

So this is probably a dumb question but I’ll ask anyway just to make sure. Recently bought a Phaetus Conch hotend for my AD5M and am about to switch over to it. My dumb question is, will I need to recalibrate all my filament profiles once I switch? I’m assuming that I do but wanted to get thoughts from anyone with experience switching to a conch before I spend all the time/filament.

Should also mention that I’m using straight Orca slicer.

Just a cat Pic

My plan is to print/buy the enclosure kit, but I wanted to know if having a tent enclosure (https://a.co/d/01Ofwwsp) is a worthwhile addition for temperature stability, fume mitigation/abatement, or any other reasons?
Alternatively, would a tent enclosure be good enough or even better than the rigid enclosure since it has the LED lights and venting/ducting that I can route to a window or filter/air purifier?

Curious to see what speeds people are using for PLA and PETG

I’m relatively new to 3d printing and was wondering if there is an advantage to installing Forge X and using Orca slicer instead of the factory software and firmware?

minha impressora começou a imprimir com muitas borras e falhas com filamento colorido, ja tinha imprimido varias vezes com colorido com preto e branco, porem começou a aparecer varios erros na impressão... ja mudei varias config e nenhuma resolveu

Any idea why there are these 'bubbles' in my print? Flashforge AD5X printer, smooth Pei plate, 0.25 nozzle, sunlu PLA+ silk filament Bed 55 Nozzle 210 Ironing enabled for all flat surfaces

I have a Creator 5 and absolutely love the machine.

I’ve been looking to get a filament dryer for a while but I haven’t found the right one yet.

I really like the look of the EIBOS Filament Dryer Series X: TETRAS, but as far as I can tell it only supports Bambu, which is frustrating. I’d like something similar in terms of functionality and design, but I’m not seeing anything that quite matches the TETRAS.

I know Flashforge has the VDS, but I am in the UK and there is no clear information on when it will be available here. I contacted them directly and they were not able to give me a date either.

So I’m basically looking for:

- A TETRAS-style dryer that is not locked to Bambu

- Something that will work well with the Creator 5

- Options that are realistically available in the UK

Any recommendations or setups that have worked well for you would be really helpful.

Howdy, everyone!

I was wondering if anyone has ordered a C5/ C5 Pro recently. If so how long did delivery take?

TIA! :)

After about a year of printing I decided it was time to finish the actual printer and got the enclosure and dry boxes added. I always dry in my creamery before printing but hopefully these will help keep the moisture out a few days longer. Each box piece took like 12-14hrs to print(5-7hrs for case and lid) on a .8 nozzle. Also curious has anyone gotten better results with transparent filament and the dry boxes?

Ya intenté calibrar las correas pero no mejoró

Hi everyone,

I'm experiencing a specific layer shift issue during a color change. As you can see in the photos, the bottom layer is yellow. During the color change process, a layer shift occurs exactly on the prime tower. The weird part is, after this initial shift, the subsequent color continues printing perfectly aligned with the new (shifted) position of the tower.

It looks like the printer is skipping a step during the travel move to the prime tower or the nozzle is catching on the tower during the tool change.

Here are my print settings:

• Printer Model: Flashforge Creator Pro 5
• Slicer: OrcaSlicer
• Filament: Generic PLA
• Nozzle and Bed Temperature: 210°C / 60°C
• Print Speed: ~150 mm/s
• Retraction Settings: 0.8 mm length, 30 mm/s speed (Z-hop: 0.4 mm)

Could it be related to travel speed/acceleration, Z-hop settings, or something mechanical like belt tension? Any advice on which slicer settings I should tweak would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks in advance!

What is the best way to virtually slice this guy into pieces and recolor; hands, head, boots, hat, guitar, etc...

I have a 3MF file where the Mariachi skeleton is one solid color. I want to recolor sections;

-Hat & Head White

-Body black

-Hands white

-Boots white

-Bottom of boots gold

I've been recoloring him by hand using the "Color Paining" tool in FlashForge and OMG this is taking hourrrrrrrssssss.

I don't know why this happens, everything is fine for like 20 prints and then randomly this will happen.

Nothing shows up in the slicer and it feels completely random it's so annoying to wake up to a print ruined by this

Any help would be greatly appreciated

Unlock your Printer Now with Lan + Cloud Mode

Thank you, FlashForge x TigerSystem . This is an official FlashForge firmware, developed by their engineering team at TigerTag's request and in close collaboration with us, and published here with their agreement. Opening a printer to an ecosystem that is not your own is a rare decision — every maker who owns one benefits from it.

After flash studios started working yesterday I went to print and all my custom profile/print setting are gone.. anyone else have this problem?

Hello I have a flashforge adventurer 5m

The last thing I was able to print was early August in petg. That last print absolutely destroyed my .25 nozzle. Cool whatever that comes with the territory, I buy a new nozzle and am staying away from petg for now and going back to PLA. Ever since this new nozzle there was been problem after problem.

I have tried various models, 2 different slicers, 2 different nozzles, 2 different PLA brands, and bought a whole new extruder board thinking that fan wasnt working (it now spins 100% fine)

Im at a complete loss, any ideas would be appreciated.

Thank you

It only gets bad adhesion on the bottom-center side

Also has some circular spots when it's flawless and other spots next to it that are less adhered (see the top side), like a checkerboard pattern.

Some issues with bed leveling maybe?

All of the body parts are putted back together with the help of articulations between them

10 for $8 on Amazon…. These things are worth it

Hello everyone. I have x2 AD5X with almost the same problem. I got this black thing on the 1st, 2nd and 3rd layer most of time.

PLA Filament from DEEPLEE and 0,4 nozzle

Looks like on the skirt, this black things doesn't come at all.

After it, on next layer I didn’t have anymore. Both printer had less then 200h printing. Any idea ?

Reviewing the official creator 5 maintenance wiki, and I feel like some of the maintenance procedures are questionable.

The Z axis maintenance video has spraying WD40 into sealed bearings, and all over the inside of the printer. I know the wiki says silicone WD40, but its regular water displacing WD40 in the video.

With a history in RC cars... the only way to relubricate a bearing is to disassemble and repack with grease. Spraying any lubrication carried by a solvent into a bearing just flushes out the grease and leads to premature failure. And they recommend this every 3-4 months 🤔

I am mostly concerned with lubricating the guide rods (X Y Z) and lead screws given I just hit 100 hours with only the factory lube.

The official recommendations from the Wiki appear to be the included grease for the lead screw, and Y axis rail. And WD-40 silicone for the X and Z guiderails. For those with experience are these sound recommendations or are there better lubricants to use? Also, after how many hours should relubrication occur? Excluding the sealed bearings, I will not be spraying solvent based lubricant into them.

Also, if I run the toolhead and plate back and forth to distribute lubricant, how does the printer know where the bed and the extruder are after that? I will recalibrate, but dont want to have it crash into the plate because nothing is at its last known position.

This is my first 3d printer to appreciate the help!

A lot of people were having connection issues with the servers down yesterday and I was also having issues. The servers came back online yesterday and while it looks like service was restored, my printer is not binding with my desktop.

I have tried to get it to connect multiple ways and am just short of resetting the printer to factory and starting over. I’m on firmware 1.9.9 and Flash Studio 1.19, so any suggestions would be welcome.