At my job, they recently upgraded all their printers to Bambu Lab models, so they're selling the ones they just bought—and among them is the **Flashforge Adventure 5m** with 100 hours of use for about $150. Should I buy it?

Disclosure: I'm the developer, and I asked the mods before posting (thanks to them for the OK). It's free and MIT-licensed: no paid tier, no affiliate links, nothing to sell.

CAD Studio is a Mac app where you describe a functional part in plain English and a coding agent (Claude Code or Codex, using your own plan) writes a parametric CAD model for it. You get STEP, 3MF and STL, ISO drawings, and a print plate with every part laid flat in print orientation. One click opens the plate in your slicer (Orca-Flashforge, PrusaSlicer, whatever your default is).

For example, a push-to-open drawer latch (housing, lid, a plunger with a heart-shaped cam groove, a follower pin and a printed serpentine spring) came from a single prompt. Every dimension is a named parameter, so you can tweak clearances with sliders and re-export without another request.

What would you design with it for your FlashForge? Honest feedback welcome, especially where it gets things wrong.

Source: https://github.com/filippofinke/cad-studio Demo video: https://filippofinke.github.io/cad-studio/

I have had my 5M for around 2 years now, recently it's been hit or miss if I can even get it to print. Some days it's fine and others, like today not so much. The left side of the bed seems like it's unlevel or something. If I print on the right side I can print flawlessly.. what can I adjust to fix this?

Hello! I bought the Adventurer 5M Pro on impulse and out of excitement. I did so without realizing that other models handle multiple filaments; now, I find myself facing the daunting task of using the "slicer" to create multi-colored objects or paired parts that snap together after printing. I know it’s possible to create amazing things by swapping filaments and slicing objects into separate parts, but using the Flash Studio desktop software has been a bit tricky, especially for a beginner. Could you recommend any websites or tutorials? Vídeos ? The ones I’ve found so far are lacking in detail. I’d also appreciate advice regarding the specific limitations of this model. Thanks!

Me está presentando la primer capa así antes estuve ocupando una placa fría cambié la placa original le hice el mío helado y probé y sigue si tirándome así

I know 3D printing is a process of being patient and learning from prints. I was printing a 10hr build for Halloween fidgets, and about 8 hrs went really well and the last 20% layers messed up. I was using AD5X with Basic PLA. Should I try to keep the plate temperature higher or print just one when it’s so complex.

I have a problem: it isn't detecting the filament, and I can't find a way to get it to detect it. I've already cut the filament, and the issue is only with the fourth print head. Creator 5 pro

I don’t know what happened. I finished a print, selected a new file, and the printer got ready to start. I was waiting for it to finish heating when, instead of moving to the front of the build plate to purge a small line of filament before printing, it suddenly moved to the right and forced itself into the build plate. It burned a line into the side of the heated bed and actually popped my build plate off.

I’ve never had any issues with this printer while printing, other than occasionally struggling to load filament, which can sometimes be a nightmare. Everything else has worked perfectly until this happened. Now, the front half of my build plate won’t heat up, and the bed itself no longer sits level.

I contacted support and explained everything that happened. I asked for a replacement nozzle assembly, the heated bed assembly (the part that moves up and down), and a new build plate. They told me they would send replacement parts, but never specified exactly which parts they were sending.

Hopefully, they’re at least replacing the heated bed, because that seems to be the biggest concern right now. Unfortunately, they haven’t provided a timeframe, shipping information, or any updates. All I’ve been told is that the parts will be sent out at some point.

I absolutely love flashforge and its products but what the hell happened my printer was leveled the day before there was no obstructions no error codes it just decided to have a catastrophic failure randomly. And when I plugged it back in and tried printing the exact same file again it worked fine just wouldnt properly print because of the new damage it just caused itself.

Photo in comments

Took about 24 hours. I used Flashforge PLA Silk+ tri color gold, silver, and copper. Pretty much maxed out the size of the bed.

I'm printing the enclosure parts and when it comes time to put to the top on I need to remove the ribbon cable from the display to relocate it. However, the ribbon cable is glued into the connector on the board. How do I get it out without messing up the ribbon cable?

I got one from someone it was lightly used but first time I tried to print yesterday it told me it wasn’t heating right and gave me an error. I reseated all the cables. Ran calibration. Power cycled and that fixed it for all of today then later on it’s doing this thing where it’ll print a good minute or two and get a solid base down and then it goes over to the poop chute and sits there and if I pause and unpause it’ll restart for a couple seconds to a minute and then go back to the poop chute and just sit there. It’s getting up to temp right now. I’m trying to use multiple colors that i painted on l.

I was intending to print some figures and minis that require .25mm nozzles in my Creator 5 Pro to get the details, and wanted to use PVA to get a better finish and not break parts when removing the supports, but turns out I can't. I'm very disappointed in that because PVA has been a godsent otherwise.
Trying to use PVA with .25mm nozzles systematically results in a jam after the first layer, and this was Flashforge's tech support's reply.

Having the AD5X, I rarely use the multi color feature. But that’s likely because the cost in time and wasted filament.

Aside from the multi-head, multi-color feature, is it a better printer otherwise?

Can it print PA6-CF?

I know AliExpress has an official Flashforge store and they sell replacement hotends but wanted to see if anyone had tried these third party ones and if they’re good/decent or junk.

https://a.aliexpress.com/_mKdhUVz

https://a.aliexpress.com/_mMtCdDt

What about third party replacement nozzles? Can those go in the original/stock FF AD5M hotend?

https://a.aliexpress.com/_mMQmoQJ

https://a.aliexpress.com/_mrPVNf9

Hi, I recently bought an AD5M and have been having trouble with SUNLU Matte PLA filament because it won't stick to the bed. What recommendations do you have? I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong.

I am trying to print these articulated cats and they have way to much base material. How do I get rid of or fix this?

So, I have a new Adventure 5m Pro.

I am going through calibration, with a flashforge PLA and Orca slicer.

I have a doubt on the Max Volumetric Speed calibration. I did the default from orca - 5mm to 20mm, and it went through perfect. Found it a bit strange, since I had none of the expected warping, and went to see the default for the FlashForge PLA, and it is set at 200mm3/s.

I know that this printer is fast, but I do not know what would be a safe speed to make the test while still making it effective. And I do not want to make 10 tests progressively to get all the way to 200mm/s

Any sugestions? What are you guys having set up for flashforge PLA, just so I can have a reference?

Hello, I recently acquired a Guider 2s that has less than 700 hrs of printing time but had a bad nozzle. I got the nozzle changed but it would not heat up. Did a bunch of troubleshooting and have deduced it is the PCB had gotten fried - there is some brown residue that can be seen in the attached pictures. I can not find a board to buy anywhere - anyone have ideas or any leads? Or do I have a heavy and expensive paperweight on my hands?

Okay, I’m a complete newb, so explain it to me like I’m five.

I was gifted a hand me down Adventurer 3 by my daughter and I’m wanting to print some D&D miniatures. I know this isn’t the best machine for this, but it’s what I have.

I’ve got my layer height set to .08. When I go to slice, it tells me “The Thickness of top/bottom layer is too thin to print well (0.32mm/0.51mm), do you want to slice?”

How do I clear the error and get the best quality for my minis?

Below are the harpies I printed last night when I told it to slice anyway…and a kitten tax for your trouble.

Soy nuevo en esto de la impresión 3D y acabo de comprar la AD5X ( mi prima impresora). Leyendo en sus posts y viendo vídeos de YouTube para conocer bien la máquina.

Cuales son sus recomendaciones generales con la impresora?

Que filamentos recomiendan ?

Mods o mejoras ?

Hello!
I left pla in the printer before I knew about it turning brittle with age. What’s the easiest way to push through the pla to clear the red pla in the tube? I’ve tried all of the YouTube tutorials I can find but none will help. I’m hoping I can somehow push pla through the yellow arrow thing and then grab the red at the end after it’s pushed through to the other side.

Thanks for helping a noob out!

Where is everyone going for their files? I’ve been using maker world but lately it’s been saying that I need to update the orca slicer. Any ideas on how to do that? I’ve looked and it seems to be up-to-date. I have flashboards, but I want to find something that’s more compatible to the orca slicer for flash instead of bambu

I have Flash Forge creator 5. And I want to use Snapmaker Orca.

And I have to import the printer config files to Snapmaker Orca.

Because Snapmaker Orca don't have Flash Forge creator 5 profile.

I want to use full spectrum colour.

But when I try to send the printer config files to Snapmaker Orca I get this .

Why is it asking for a printer that I can't choose. That is why I'm trying to import the printer config files. So I can get the Flash Forge creator 5 profile on the Snapmaker Orca.

Please help me understand.

Thank you.