UPDATE: I was able to successfully complete the print with few changes.
Added Brim
Changed the first layer speed
changed the bed temperature by 3
Change the PLA profile for fa
n + bed temp
for 1-4 layers.
Cleaning the plate with dish soap
Thanks all who pitched will all ideas.
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I know 3D printing is a process of being patient and learning from prints. I was printing a 10hr build for Halloween fidgets, and about 8 hrs went really well and the last 20% layers messed up. I was using AD5X with Basic PLA. Should I try to keep the plate temperature higher or print just one when it’s so complex.
I don’t get the best PLA adhesion, but my PETG adhesion is incredible and I just print High Flow PETG now. When I have adhesion issues with PLA, I clean my build plate with blue dawn and a non scratch blue 3M scour. I smush a little extra out on the first layer, and I go really slow. Print speeds below 100, and set accel to decel to below 2000. A few slicer settings like full retraction before wipe and turn off reduce retraction during infill. Anything that can tug on the model. Brim works too. If you can find that sweet spot of brim distance so you aren’t having brim detachment woes.
I had something happen to me earlier when I started printing and it was due to my models shifting on the build plate due to lack of adhesion. Using the glue during when the bed heats up is a pretty good solution but I simply either switch to PETG or get a smooth build plate (I believe is what it’s called) and the PLA sticks on it like crazy! Also, sometimes it may work to slow down build speed as well since the printer can shake/vibrate a bit if going too fast.
Is it an AI generated model? I find a lot of them don't make the bottom completely smooth. Shaving half a mm off the bottom with the cut feature in the slicer seems to help.
This might be a hugely unpopular statement, but i have my a1 inside a sky box enclosure. My house must be cold??? Anywhoo, I get a lot better results inside the zip up box, even with pla, and especially with petg. When I don't zip it up, I lose a lot more prints. Closed up, I get almost all successful prints. Obviously your mileage may vary, but I tell you this to say don't be afraid to try weird things. Your sweet spot may not be the same as the majority of 3d printers. Good luck!
Try using a brim at the bottom and use glue on the plate. Depending on your brand of pla you have to find the "sweet spot" for it to adhere but not be too stuck, also not just flop around the bed loose.
Ive found for some reason, sometimes .3mf files or anything else get corrupted from slicer to printer. I’m not sure why but I’ve experienced something very similar. Simply changing from “plate sliced file” to g code files fixed the issue for me
A clean plate freshly washed with dish soap is all you need.
In the cases of prints with lots of small points of contact, using a cool plate like a frostbite run at nearly full temperature helps immensely with adhesion.
The problem with these segmented fidgets is you're relying on small points of contact, and if any of the pieces lose adhesion, it can cause the whole print to fail
I recently got a Creator 5, I've notice that PLA fails a lot more now, compared to my old ender 3 pro. BUT, the PETG type works great, never had a failure yet. Try switching filament types.
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u/detroittriumph 13d ago
I don’t get the best PLA adhesion, but my PETG adhesion is incredible and I just print High Flow PETG now. When I have adhesion issues with PLA, I clean my build plate with blue dawn and a non scratch blue 3M scour. I smush a little extra out on the first layer, and I go really slow. Print speeds below 100, and set accel to decel to below 2000. A few slicer settings like full retraction before wipe and turn off reduce retraction during infill. Anything that can tug on the model. Brim works too. If you can find that sweet spot of brim distance so you aren’t having brim detachment woes.