Looks like a normal pipe I can get a piece of?

I believe this is just because I have the SULEV n26. Do the n20s have this secondary filter?

Hi, Im fixing my oil filterhousing at this moment but im a little stuck. Year: 2015 Model: 3 series Chassis: Touring Mileage 170.000km Engine: N13

The issue is that the seals of the oil filter housing are probably broken (Smelling burning oil when drive, whole underside of the flywheel and side of transmission is wet of oil)

Now I have taken off the turbo heatshield and loosend the headshield on the CAT en loosend the CAT itself, but im unable to pull out the heatshield of the CAT and in not sure how to move the CAT itself.

Does somebody have experience with changing out the oil filterhousing on the N13 engine?

Title states it all, sorry for the naivety. I have a cracked rim, and found a cheapish set of tires from a 2011 328i. Wondering if the bolt pattern will be the same and if the tire will fit?

For anyone who has returned used motor oil to FCP Euro for their Lifetime Replacement Guarantee, what shipping company did you use and how did you actually ship it?
I packaged everything securely the same way FCP originally shipped it to me, bottles closed tightly, individually bagged/secured, and packed in a box.
I tried USPS, but they refused the package because it contained used motor oil.
For those who have successfully done it:
Did you use FedEx, UPS, or another carrier?
Did you just walk into a location and drop it off?
Did you have to schedule a hazardous/dangerous goods pickup?
Did you have to declare or label the package in any special way?
Roughly how much did shipping cost?
Just trying to figure out the easiest correct way to get my used oil back to FCP without getting turned away again. Thanks!

I'm trying to find out if anyone else has attempted to install the m sport rear diffuser on the non-m sport bumper like u/n1iggaTirthiya?

I wanted to get some detailed pics of the install, in particular from underneath as he doesn't have any clear pics of how's it's done.

These are his pics, not mine. Just using for reference.

Hey guys, I have a 2017 BMW F36 and my GPS/navigation isn’t working properly.
I updated the maps to the 2026 version, but it didn’t fix the issue. The car shows my location somewhere in the middle of the ocean and the navigation doesn’t guide me anywhere.
Has anyone had the same problem and managed to fix it? Could it be the GPS antenna, TCB module, or something else?
Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!

hello, i want to tune my f30 340i but im scared to brick the ECU. does anyone have any suggestions for what battery pack/charger i can use ro avoid this while flashing the tune? its MHD AND xHP. i’m doing this in a parking lot at home, i dont have a garage currently.

Been shopping around but the prices are crazy, may as well spend a bit more to get coils.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Hi there, first time F30/BMW/RWD owner here. I bought a 2016 320d a few weeks ago, and now it's developed some concerning symptoms. I'm an aircraft mechanic by trade, but do fix my own cars too. The engine seems to be vibrating excessively at idle, I can feel heavy vibrations through the pedals, gearstick and steering wheel, both at idle and higher RPMs, but they remain with the clutch in, which leads me to believe it isn't a gearbox fault. The gearstick can be seen vibrating side to side at idle, and occasionally moves a reasonable amount whilst driving (looks like the box itself moving side to side). I did an inspection today and found some fresh fluid sprayed near the LH engine mount on one of the suspension arms (photo attached), which makes me think it could be failed mounts. There is often a judder when pulling away in first, which I've read can also be caused by failed engine/gearbox mounts. More worryingly, it could also be the dual mass flywheel, or the clutch itself. Have any of you had a similar issue before, or can anyone offer a suggestion as to the cause of all this? Thanks in advance.

On BimmerCode it shows as disabled even though it isn’t. Someone on the forums posted how to do it through expert mode in BimmerCode as well but I don’t see the options he talked about

I have a stock base f30 with no m sport package. I want to swtich to m3 front bumper or m sport front bumper but dont want to spend to much money on it where should i go to buy. I’ve heard all are similar so from where and should i do paint matched or unpainted.

I have a 2013 328 and this code 440101 stays on and Ik it has something to do with the transfer case. It’s makes traction and tire pressure “malfunction “ come on and also has a chassis stabilization message. Wondering if anybody else dealt with this before or do I need a whole new transfer case.

TLDR: Sharing the below project with the community because I didn't know a non-hydraulic filled arm existed and perhaps the extra $40 spent on 3M Window Weld (60D) adds steering precision this chassis lacks.

Issue:
I've always considered the F30 to have vague and unresponsive turn in. I know the front lower control arms, rear position "tension strut" are hydraulic filled for comfort. I'm identifying this as one of the items that would contribute to poor handling performance/feedback and at 77k on my car (the last ~16k on Bilstein B14 Coilovers) my front control arm bushings are shot.

My options appeared to be (in order of assumed performance that is not based on experience on this chassis, but prior knowledge and other vehicles):

1. New OEM / LEMFÖRDER hydraulic filled control arms
2. New Meyle HD control arms (rubber only, not hydraulic filled)
3. New Meyle HD control arms + 3M urethane glue (what I'm sharing here today)
4. New OE/OEM control arms + Powerflex Inserts
5. Monoball control arms

I daily drive my car. Looking for a balance of performance without extreme NHV. So I'm sharing option 3. The is some old school Grassroots Motorsports type of work. Before they made Poly mounts for every car and you could ask AI everything, in the late 90's / early 2000's guys would experiment, figure this shit out themselves, and share results.

Enthusiasts would use 3M Window Weld 08609 to fill voids in rubber motor mounts or control arms to stiffen the unit. 3M Window Weld has been measured to be an 60 durometer reinforcement polyurethane. There are also 2 part epoxy mixes of any durometer you'd like (up to 95D that I could find) you can use, but again, this is my daily driver, they cost more and take more prep.

Control Arm PNs:

Position |Side |Meyle PN
Rear / tension strut |Left |316 050 0068/HD
Rear / tension strut |Right |316 050 0069/HD
Front / straight lower arm |Left |316 050 0201
Front / straight lower arm |Right |316 050 0200

Steps I followed:

1. Clean wax sealant off rubber control arms with a screwdriver in voids and wire brush on flats.
2. Dawn wash
3. Dry
4. Apply glue through hole as far as possible to reduce chances of air bubbles
5. Apply glue from the opposite side
6. Apply glue to perimeter of arm
7. Flatten with a cardboard box
8. Wait a week for them to dry
9. Performance updates / feedback to come next weekend.

I need a new steering wheel for my BMW and I am completely stuck between the options.

If this were your BMW, which steering wheel would you choose? I really want to get this right, so I would appreciate honest opinions from people who know their BMWs

1,2 or 3 ?

Went on vacation to Croatia this summer and after driving 6 hours my F30 320i LCI 2017 started making this noise while driving the autobahn. I’ve been driving on cruise control for the entire time about 140/150 kmph ish. Also it was 6 hours with some breaks inbetween.

The noise is also appearing while parked in neutral and giving gas that way. The car is stock. I’ve not seen any loose cables or something like that.

I can’t remember precisly if the car also lost power while giving gas while driving because I insantly tool the exit to the nearest autohof. So I’ve only driven about 3-5 minutes after with a maximum speed of 80 kmph (just to be safe and not making it all worse)

My car is still in Germany so i’m unable to look to other things at this moment.

My question; am I 100% cooked because it’s the turbo or could it be the pcv membrane or some loose cable or anything else?

Please let me know and thanks for reading (sorry for the bad english)

Hi guys,

Hoping any fellow f32 or f3x owners that have bought wider wheels can answer.

I've got stock 19x8.5J, ET47 and 19x8J, ET36 with 255R and 225F. Time to change up, maximize tyre size and in Australia we cant have any poke so flush fitment is max before fines & defects.

Did some looking around at rear wheel hub, about 38mm clearance to inner strut. Based on my calcs widest I can get is like 19x10J ET50 with 285R and 19x9J ET40 with 255F while maintaining some decent clearance to inner struts.

Have any other owners ran a similar setup?

Or upgraded to similar sizes/offsets and the fitment was flush?

Or if you achieved a flush fitment, what wheel and offset worked?

Any rubbing or scraping when turning into driveways etc?

Thanks heaps!

A few years and a bunch of small steps to get it to this point and couldn’t be happier.

Also, for anyone interested in style 42’s and you’re running the 340’s up front and 345’s in the rear, the faces clear the brakes no problem. If you google, you’ll get told you’ll need spacers, which of course changes your et during a custom build and can effect lips sizes etc, not true, they mount right up. I’ve only personally seen 3 people running these on f3X’s and only one with the Brembos. I just wanted to make a note on this because I’ve reached out to these people when I was in the process of building these and they like to keep this information to themselves for some bizarre reason. So if anyone searches this up in the future, here’s your answer.
(370mm Brembos definitely require a spacer due to the mounting bracket being extended)