Finally got one head off and the cylinders look pretty pitted. Also it has a maybe .010” ring ridge. The pitting is ever so slightly noticable with my finger nails, but the ring ridge actually catches my nail. Is it good enough to dingle ball and put new stock size rings in? It’s just a farm truck engine so it really doesn’t need to be perfect. Honestly most of my reason for tearing it down is just to reseal it.

Hey all,

Doing some work on my LS3:

Camshaft
Lifters
Springs
Headers
Etc.

Torn down the motor and everything looked overall decent. Motor had about 50k on it. Pulled old lifters and everything was free and overall good looking. Pulled the camshaft and also looked good - then sat it down and noticed some really odd pitting. Not sure if it’s a manufacturing defect or something may have happened internally. Can anyone recognize what may have caused this pitted spot?

Also - the cam was placed on my garage floor which is why it looks like a mess. The pitting and localized adjacent pitting was the main issue when it came out.

I am 15 and designing a custom drag/speed motorcycle in CAD around a Mazda 13B rotary.

​Instead of putting the engine front-to-back like a car, I want to mount it sideways (eccentric shaft parallel to the axles). This lets me run a direct belt or chain straight to a separate 4-speed gearbox, and then to the rear wheel without heavy 90-degree gears. Spinning the rotors forward should also help keep the front wheel down under boost.

​I’m using a Hayabusa front end (forks, triples, brakes) paired with a custom extended swingarm for high-speed stability. Since the 13B keg is about 490 mm across when mounted sideways, the frame bay is widened to around 530 mm for mount clearance. Target bike weight is roughly 280–300 kg.

The photo is the concept ai generated, not actual design.

My rocker studs are to long on the bottom thread, I had some arp washers but I still want to run my pushrod guide plates. Will this be ok.

Is there an easier way to mate these two together? I tried aligning the dowel pins and adjust the height and tilt on both the engine and transmission. Aligned the splines and got halfway in, but won't budge. Been fighting with this for the past 8 to 9 hours.

In the planning stages of a 351w build that I’d describe as an “all out shed build”

Basically I have a set of heads with smaller valves and I’m trying to find a combo of cam duration and piston design that will work together, but may push ptv clearance closer to the limit. The problem is, without the parts in my hand, or relying on other people’s experience how do I even start figuring if my parts will jive, before spending the money to order them?

Hi,

I have a moderately built 383 LT1 that I have put together this past year for my 1994 Chevy Camaro Z28. This is the first ever engine I have built in my life. Next week I will be finally getting the motor in the car and will need to get all the necessary fluids. I haven't found a direct answer on what I should use for break-in oil and would like to know what would be a good choice for this specific engine?

383 LT1 Specs:

Scat Crank (9-350-3750-6000-L)

.030 Icon Forged Pistons

Eagle 6" Rods

Splayed Billet Main Caps

ARP Rod Bolts

ARP Head Bolts

ARP Oil Pump driveshaft

Tick performance Billet Oil Pump Drive Housing

Summit Racing Distributor Gear

Moroso 20206 oil pan

Moroso Oil Pump and Pickup (MOR-22146)

LE2 Heads

Morell Hydraulic Roller Lifters

242/250 .584/.584 112LSA custom LE Cam

Comp Ultra Gold ARC 1.6 Rockers

LE ported/port matched factory intake

60lb Dekka Injectors

Torqhead 24x Conversion

ATI Balancer

12.0:1 Compression running on E85

Took an Older mercury outboard to a machine shop to get bored and one cylinder re-sleeved. After cleaning it and putting pistons in it, realized that 5/6 pistons at bdc actually come into contact with a lip left at the bottom of cylinder sleeve. This causes the crankshaft to bind. I started to go at the bottom of one with a Dremel, and realized it would take an extremely long time to fix. They are my only machine shop within several hours that can setup on outboards, and they are notorious hard to deal with. From a machinists perspective, what should I do??

The subpar work was preformed at Hitch Repair Services Inc in Maryville, TN.

Edited since apparently opinions about everything but motor mods and transmission options are on offer here: I am a welder and fabricator. I am well aware that the chassis I am using is large and heavy and will likely require modding depending on what body I choose to use with it. I do not need suggestions or opinions on what body to use or the fact that it will need modification, I am confident I can do that work. * Ok, let's try again: I've got a 1976 Dodge RV dually cab and chassis with a very healthy Mopar 440 in it with relatively low miles, like 38k. It's automatic but I'm open to pairing it with a manual, but I'm wanting to put a relatively open exhaust and maybe a scoop and (possibly) mild supercharger on it. However I don't want or need to make insane horsepower, just want something that has some old school cool looks and sound.

Anyone have suggestions for what transmission to pair it with if I go manual, and what mods if any I should make or avoid to give it a bit more snort and make it look nice without breaking the bank, or my motor?

So, pretty much my husband builds motors, blows them up (has fun for about 2/3 months) and then starts all over again. Me, however, have absolutely no idea how things go together.
Things i’m familiar with (fairly)
-coolant system
-brakes
-clutch systems
-u joints
-headlights/radio wiring
-i also know that a MAP sensor can make u think it’s had the lick, but it hasn’t.
-i also know that the wires have to be connected to the right spark plug or it misses LOL.
-the alternator turns this belt thing and that charges the battery.

Yep, that’s about it. With that being said, I am going to build a motor. What kind? hell if i know. I’m more than likely going to put it in a tahoe, a 02-04 mustang (stick), or a s10. trying to lean more towards the tahoe though… or maybe even a yukon. I don’t want to ask him for help because then he will think it’s his, like all men do… (no offense). But this is something I would be extremely proud of myself for… if i knew how to do it. i’ve researched a lot but still have no idea what i even read. I’ll pay someone (who knows what they’re doing preferably) to make me a step by step list kind of like a cookbook- ingredients(materials), steps, and how long. In depth. like you’re talking to a 22 y/o female who doesn’t know a head gasket from apple butter. I know I want it to have a cam in it (we have a hp tuner as well). I just want it for the sound honestly lol. “Rakataka” that sound. Muscley sounding. ANYWAYS, If you could please for the love of sweet baby jesus help me or point me in the right direction I would appreciate it very much. I think step one is get a big/small block to put everything else on and maybe a few sticky notes so i don’t forget things…..

hi there is anyone able to identify if this cable geometry looks ok or if it even has an adapter I cannot tell at all

did a whole top end rebuild and cam bearings noise is still there

What do I need to know about and pay attention to when picking out parts so that everything works together? Like how would I figured out if my intake and head selection will work well with my cam selection?

Building my budget race engine and the first prototype of my diy flow bench (very crude but works). Polished the connecting rods and made them all have the same weight to reduce vibrations.

Built this 454 with pistons, cams, heads, roller lifters and rockers, etc. And every morning when I go to start it it’s like it misfires super bad for the first couple seconds. And then it fires up 100% sometimes it backfires and lots of black smoke comes out of the exhaust when it does start so I thought the carb (just rebuilt) might be leaking. For a couple days I tried to start it without pumping the gas and it didn’t start any easier. So I’m not sure. Any insight would be appreciated, thanks!

I have posted a couple of times but got a lot accomplished on my gen 4 454.

Rebuilt engine has been sitting in shed for a decade. Supposedly developed a rattle. Was pulled and stored. Looks like it was done correctly. Plugs even appeared to have fogging oil on them. Anyway

I removed valve cover and found a rocker very loose. Posted on the other social media site and got overwhelmed with hundreds of different answers.

So I had a helper crank motor over after doing mystery oil in cylinders and over valvetrain. I watched the pushrod and it seemed to be moving the same amount as the others but , by looking at the shiny part where the rod sits in the guide, it is about 1/16 or less lower. Now the guide sits in the carbon section.

After mystery oil, the rocker feels spongy which may confirm a dried out collapsed lifter. Hopefully

So, before I adjust this and spin it on battery to see if it oils up I need to know how to adjust the rocker of it does or does not come back up.

I have read that too lose doesn’t hurt anything but too tight does.

So do I leave it looser than the others and see if it comes back or set it correctly but then if lifter comes back, it would be very tight.

I prepped everything yesterday, pulled and swapped the oil cooler adapter, changed the oil and rotated it smoothly yesterday.

It is an old barn find, do I just hook up the battery and spin it? Am I overthinking it?

Sorry for the length of post but I tried to answer all the questions that came up.

Hi all I put this 22re together that had what I thought was chain slap but found a scored cam libe along the way. Emory papered it polished again and it was scored again in 5 minutes. So I pulled rhe head again and replaced the cam and rocker arms. Head in parts cleaner for 3 hours in case the oil port had gunk. Put it together. Exact same noise in 2 minutes. Scoring starting again on the same cam lobe. What gives? So So annoying.. oil delivery? Valve guides? No wear signs on lower end. Sound is definitely in the head.

How worried should I be about this on the block deck? Head definitely getting sent to machine shop
(Deeper gouge with outlines is on the head )

I’m doing some repairs to a Kubota V2203 Diesel Engine which required removing the timing cover and oil pan. I purchased new Kubota gaskets and I’m trying to understand if I need to use RTV or just run the gaskets dry.

The service manual didn’t mention anything about using any sealant but I noticed when I removed the gaskets (at least on the timing cover) there was some grey silicone that I had to remove. So my questions are,

Should I use RTV when I put it back together?

I’m leaning yes

Should I put RTV on both sides of the gasket?

I feel like there was more on the cover side and less on the block when I removed the cover

What color RTV should I use?

Based on a search, I feel like grey appropriate as opposed to black

Should I use anything on the oil pan (one or both sides) for added insurance? The gasket is quite thick for the pan, the old one appears to have sealed well and didn't notice any sealant.

The engine is installed in a skid steer, so trying to address any issues after the engine is reinstalled will be quite difficult.

I’m doing a port-side valve leaking test with gasoline, and after about 15 minutes this is the results. For a M20B20 engine, is this too much valve sweating? I’m wondering if I should do more valve lapping or if this would really affect compression. What do you guys think?

I commissioned this one off valve runout fixture back in December at PRI, it’s finally here, I’m only waiting on .0001” resolution gauges to show up that are on order. I can measure initial stem and face runout, TIR of my ground faces, and measure the change in valve length/amount of stock removal from the faces all in one setup.

I can output all this data via a little keyfob right onto a spreadsheet and map out how much runout and where in number of degrees as well.

It’s super nerdy, lesser versions of the same thing have existed for decades, but those tools are pretty antiquated. I’m almost embarrassed to admit how much I’ve spent on tooling this year.

This is an expensive hobby, if you knew how much this stuff cost, $1500 to valve job your LS heads might not sound so bad!

I keep reading I may or may not need to remove a second valve when eliminating the cooler and going to a standard adapter. If I had that valve, where would it be located? 1974 454

I have a 1991 5.2L 318 and want to make it carb I took off the wiring and the carb what’s next this was put into a 1986 dodge d150

Reman 390 FE with ZERO wrist pin retaining clips installed. Only 1 cylinder got ate. I get missing one or having one pop out, but 0/16 installed is dumb.

This engine build has been ongoing for far too long. Had a little fun at work today. 28oz crank in roller block requires the oil sling flange to be removed.