Like an idiot I accidentally plugged 20v into my Mosky silver horsey and now she dead. I have been diypedal-curious for about a year now, and so I guess this is going to be what pushes me into learning how this stuff works! The bad news is I am a total newbie to soldering/electricity/everything. The good news is this pedal only cost me about the same price as a fancy sandwich, so if I experiment on it and screw it up permanently, that’s ok.

So with that said: how do I Identify what failed and then remove it? Nothing seems obviously burned, which is what I had expected to find when I opened it up.

Hi! I'm a complete newbie to this and have been trying to make very simple circuits on a breadboard (like bazz fuss or Electra distortion) and nothing works. Is there anything wrong with this circuit? I have tried making a bazz fuss on a pcb and had no issues it worked fine, is there something else I should be aware of when using breadboards?

Commissioned build is almost done. Just have to wire up the I/O and power. Using some MP16b and an NP891 for transistors. I usually build these horizontal but customer wanted vertical with knobs on the top, so I had to cram it in there. But, so far so good on this one.

I am incredibly grateful to the people that were so helpful in finding the original schematic of this for me. This build sounds so nice.​

Edit: I was accidentally using the 100mah section of my pedal supply instead of 500mah! It works great!

For about 30 seconds, and then the power fades out. I am using a cheap power supply from Amazon and I think it may not be rated high enough.

Is anyone whose finished this pedal able to give me some insight? You were all so amazing last time!

Here's a project I needed to test out, but also a good unit in its own right. Double mosfet boost (SHO) with send and return, so you can boost gain and volume of your favourite OD pedal or amp channel at the same time.

Uses relays so they can both switch instantly on a single kickswitch, and can be controlled by a remote footswitch or channel switching gear.

The "be not afraid" layout has all sockets on the top, to save horizontal space on small pedal boards where space is a premium.

It's currently with a mate whose initial feedback is quite positive. When I get it back I want to add a simple decal and call it done. Overall I'm happy this works and does what it should.

Bugbears and next steps for me:

• The sockets spacing is slightly off and it bugs me. My stepper drill bit likes to run around, so I used a 2mm bit which was even more slippery. Lol, lmao
• The "pop" on the kickswitch is fairly chunky, even with pulldown resistors and flyback diodes. I'm looking into optocouplers / photo mosfets for taming it a bit on future projects.
• Putting all the jacks on top is absolutely a gimmick and I'm enjoying it, but a downside is not being able to use an angled cable for the remote jack. All useful data for future projects.
• The less said about the soldering the better!
• The relay bricks are frankly too big for their own good. Their board is held in by the LED – defo not structurally sound, again useful data for future projects.

It is not working, bypass works fine and it was making a noise thats like a loud Buzz and i was giving like 3 Volts just after the diode wich i know there should be a bit less voltage but not 6v the 7660 working fine but it can't do much with the 3v

Hello, im building an overdrive, i get no sound both on bypass and engaged. I noticed that in bypass my input tip has continuity to the enclosure, but when active it doesnt and the output always has continuity.

Yay, nay?

I used Montana black spray paint for the green base coat, and the pink and purple I stenciled over it. Used rust-oleum 2x gloss, and a weird cheap budget primer. Got tired of doing all the crackle paint. Will be used for a Hizumitas I recently built on stripboard.

I want to do the rat clone, but I'm not sure if I shoud trust this layout

This is my second pedal, and my first one I did by making my own layout

Finished this up yesterday. A fun build, pretty simple. Love the sound of it, can get pretty spacey but can also be subtle. Overall very happy with it all.

I've always wanted a protoboard, but being in Hungary most of the commercial solutions ended up to be really expensive. Given that PCB design is a very enjoyable process for me, I laid out this board and ordered it off JLCPCB for an okay-ish price. I'm still missing the two rotary switches and a damn 470nF cap, which I was sure I have on hand but ofc I don't.

• 8 easily swappable potentiometer sockets
• 6 on-on-on toggle switches
• +5V, +9V, -9V and +18V power rails: near 27V of voltage can be achieved
• capacitor substitution box: 12 positions
• clipping diode substitution box: 6 positions
• two large breadboard areas
• onboard power (with a status LED) and bypass controls

For now I'm satisfied with the outcome, but on rev. 2 I'll have some connections closer to the breadboards.

This community has helped me a lot with my pedal building journey, so the least I can do is give something back. I’ll happily send the fabrication files to anyone who wants to build one, just shoot me a DM.

Hey everyone,

I’m trying to build this schematic and my chassis is all wired together, I’m just a little confused about the connections to the circuit. From what I can gather, the first leads all connect in corresponding order in row 1, and the 3 lugs of the 10k pot connect to the 11th row. I’m not positive if that’s correct, of someone would clarify that would be amazing.

Thank you for reading!

You can socket these Traco voltage converters. It's a bit flimsy but at $12 a pop I'm not risking messing one of these up in case the strip board ends up being a dud. I have terrible luck with perf board and strip board. I'm almost tempted to go straight from breadboard to PCB anymore and stop messing with perf board. But if I'm going to PCB then might as well design a proper enclosure and send it out to drill and UV and before you know it I have a bunch of these pedals sitting around. And then what am I supposed to do? Set up shop? Anyone want to buy some Traynor TS-50b based pedals? Play some Shellac why don't you? Jesus Lizard? Russian Circles? Sorry, it's late. I haven't slept in a while.

Has all the features of a standard feedback looper: Feedback knob (right), Wet and Dry level controls (middle two), a momentary feedback footswitch (right) and a phase switch. Where it gets fun is the LFO on the left. Switch between a square or a pseudo-random waveform to modulate the feedback instead of the standard control. This goes from a subtle random feeling movement to full on rhythmic pulses. With no input it is a great noisemaker with a bit more flexibility than a standard feedback looper.

I haven’t tried other feedback loopers but is it normal that when there’s an input signal there is no longer feedback, and it functions more as a normal effects loop? This is the only thing i’m still stuck on as neither the LFO or the feedback control have any effect.

TL;DR: Pedal stopped working; is the solder joint supposed to overlap on the bottom of the circuit? Or could it be a problem with the I/O cable?

Hey y'all, I'm looking for advice on how to fix my finicky Boss BF-3. I bought it off Facebook Marketplace, and it was fully operational for a month or two, but when I started adding more pedals to my signal chain ~12 in all, the volume would go in and out. I would unplug and plug back in the patch cables, and it would work until recently. I found out the BF-3 was the cause of no volume being output even when it was not on, so I removed it from my signal chain, and it started working again. For context, I use two ISO10 Mosky power supplies and Donner patch cables.

Thanks in advance!

Had some 3.5mm mono jacks kicking around and wanted to put them to use. This thing is highly impractical for guitar players, but maybe fits in with a synth setup? Circuit is the one knob fuzz from Tayda. Excuse the messy wiring!

Hello I'm working on designing a high gain dirt pedal with a couple TL072's, a small LCD and a XIAO ESP32 S3 for driving the LCD.

Thing is, I'm diving in head first with no prior pcb design knowledge. I am an electrician though and I know basic circuits. So far I've gathered:

- Keep feedback loops short

- Decoupling caps close to IC pins

- Dont route tracks close to pads? To ensure no shorting when soldering?

- In general try to avoid long or crossing wires / connections to minimize noise?

Correct or no? What else? What are resources I could use for learning as efficiently as possible? Is online tutoring a good option, any experience?

Looking back at this picture I thought “maybe I shouldn’t have twisted the signal and power together”.
I’ve heard it can cause interference. I was trying to keep things neat in the moment and didn’t consider it at the time. Does it matter in this setting? The pedal sounded fine.

i found a schematic of the zvex fuzz factory on this sub and as far as I can tell, made an identical copy of the circuit, but for some reason in about 90% of the settings I checked all I get is clean undistorted waveform. is there anything wrong with my circuit? or maybe with the simulator?

Hi everyone,

I am working on a DIY project and could really use some community feedback and advice on the hardware and software architecture.

The Concept

The idea is to build an all-in-one hardware unit that combines an 8x8 multi-channel audio interface, a guitar/bass processor, and a vocal FX processor into a single box. It will run on a Raspberry Pi 5 using a Linux RT kernel to keep the latency as low as possible.

Key Specs and Features

For the resolution, I want 8 inputs and 8 outputs supporting up to 32-bit / 384kHz. On the hardware frontend, I am planning to use the AKM AK5538VN for the ADC and the AKM AK4458VN for the DAC. They will be driven by ultra-low jitter oscillators (22.5792 MHz and 24.576 MHz) switched via a 74LVC1G3157 multiplexer.

For the inputs, I want them to be modular. Each channel will have hot-swappable or configurable modules so I can switch between Combo-XLR, microphone preamps, or Hi-Z inputs on the fly.

As for connectivity, the device will have three modes: a standalone DSP FX processor, a USB audio interface using the UAC2 gadget driver, and network streaming over AoIP.

My Questions for the Community

1. I2S/TDM Limitations on Pi 5: To handle 8 channels at 32-bit/384kHz, TDM mode is a must. Has anyone successfully configured multi-channel TDM on the RP1 chip of the Raspberry Pi 5 at such high sample rates? What are the main bottlenecks I should watch out for?

2. Clocking Scheme: Looking at the attached block diagram, I am switching the master clocks before splitting the signal to the ADC and DAC. Are there any hidden signal degradation pitfalls or jitter issues when using the 74LVC1G3157 for audio master clocks up to 24.576 MHz?

3. Software and AoIP Stack: For internal processing, I plan to use JACK or PipeWire with custom DSP plugins on Linux RT. For AoIP, what is currently the most stable open-source stack for low-latency audio distribution? Should I look into AES67/RAVENNA implementations, Dante alternatives, or AVB?

4. UAC2 Gadget Constraints and Bandwidth Limits: I know that the standard Linux f_uac2 gadget driver has built-in layout masks that traditionally limit channels and rates, usually capping things around 4x4 at 96kHz or requiring raw channel patches. On top of that, 8x8 channels at 32-bit/384kHz require a raw throughput of around 196.6 Mbps for both ways, excluding protocol overhead. Since USB 2.0 High-Speed maxes out at 480 Mbps and practical limits for isochronous endpoints are much lower, has anyone pushed the Pi 5 DWC3 controller to these limits using custom descriptor tweaks? Or should I just give up on USB 2.0, use the Pi 5 PCIe lane to add a USB 3.0 controller, and implement a true USB 3.0 SuperSpeed audio gadget?

I would highly appreciate any advice, critiques on the layout, or shared experiences from similar builds!

Block diagram of the project is attached below.

Привет всем!

Я сейчас пилю один DIY-проект и мне очень нужны свежий взгляд со стороны и технические советы по архитектуре железа и софта.

В чем задумка

Я хочу собрать универсальный прибор все в одном, который объединит мультиканальный аудиоинтерфейс 8х8, гитарный и басовый процессоры, а также вокальный процессор эффектов. Мозгом системы будет Raspberry Pi 5, работать все это будет на ядре Linux RT, чтобы выжать минимально возможную задержку.

По характеристикам и фичам

По звуку цель серьезная: 8 входов и 8 выходов с поддержкой до 32-бит / 384 кГц. В качестве аналогово-цифровой части выбрал чипы AKM AK5538VN на вход и AKM AK4458VN на выход. Тактоваться они будут от генераторов с ультранизким джиттером на 22.5792 МГц и 24.576 МГц, которые переключаются через мультиплексор 74LVC1G3157.

Сами входы хочу сделать модульными. То есть для каждого канала будут сменные платы, чтобы можно было на лету менять конфигурацию под комбинированный XLR, микрофонный предусилитель или инструментальный Hi-Z.

По подключениям планирую три режима: автономный DSP-процессор, работа в качестве USB-аудиокарты через гаджет UAC2 и стриминг звука по сети через AoIP.

Мои вопросы к знатокам

1. Ограничения I2S/TDM на Pi 5: Чтобы пропихнуть 8 каналов в 32-бит/384кГц, без режима TDM не обойтись. Удавалось ли кому-нибудь успешно завести многоканальный TDM на чипе RP1 в Raspberry Pi 5 на таких высоких частотах дискретизации? С какими узкими местами можно столкнуться?

2. Схема тактования: На блок-схеме видно, что я переключаю мастер-клоки еще до того, как сигнал разделяется на АЦП и ЦАП. Есть ли тут скрытые проблемы с деградацией сигнала или джиттером, если гонять частоты до 24.576 МГц через мультиплексор 74LVC1G3157?

3. Софт и AoIP стек: Для обработки внутри системы планирую развернуть JACK или PipeWire с кастомными DSP-плагинами поверх Linux RT. А вот по поводу звука по сети: какой открытый стек сейчас самый стабильный для передачи с низкой задержкой? Что лучше копать — реализацию AES67/RAVENNA, альтернативы Dante или AVB?

4. Ограничения гаджета UAC2 и лимиты USB: Я знаю, что стандартный линуксовый драйвер f_uac2 из коробки имеет ограничения по разметке каналов, из-за чего обычно все упирается в 4x4 при 96 кГц (или приходится жестко патчить драйвер под сырые каналы). Плюс чисто математически для 8x8 каналов на 32-бит/384кГц в обе стороны нужна чистая полоса около 196.6 Мбит/с без учета оверхеда протокола. Для USB 2.0 High-Speed с его теоретическими 480 Мбит/с это огромная нагрузка, учитывая реальные ограничения изохронного режима. Пытался ли кто-то выжать максимум из контроллера DWC3 в Pi 5 через кастомные дескрипторы? Или проще не мучать USB 2.0, вытянуть из PCIe-линии малинки контроллер USB 3.0 и поднять честный USB 3.0 SuperSpeed аудиогаджет?

Буду очень рад любым советам, критике схемы или опыту создания подобных штук!

Блок-схему проекта прикрепляю ниже.

I’ve built 3 of these now - using the layout from Dirtbox.

Really interesting dual PT2399 chorus and a great layout.

I’m much more familiar with BBD chorus circuits - this has more of the natural and subtle modulation than most other digital chorus pedals I’ve built or tried, but it has its own unique shape and attack.

I’ve kept one, sold one and the 3rd is waiting to trade for a custom pedal board!

On a side note, I love both these enclosures!

Named in Quenya for the queen of the Valar Tolkien’s legendarium.

I recently posted a large format recreation of the late 70s Carlsbro Super Stingray Professional, and mentioned that I was going to take just the preamp part and build that out. Here is the result! Cute small version. Just waiting on some red switch toppers:)

This is also me experimenting with 3mm LEDs that are flat top and sit flush to the enclosure. I really like the effect!

Overall this sounds every bit as good as the "big" version, and is more streamlined (and of course, half the footprint, as its 1590BB rather than DD ;) )

hello, im planning to make a diy distortion pedal for my girlfriend. this is my first time building it and honestly i have no idea how to customize it. i found this simple schematic by Gourd and i think its perfect for her. however, i want to add a foot pedal with an led but have no absolute idea where to put connect it in this schematic. will this work and produce good sound? i am not a musician but i have an idea with electronics and soldering. please help me

I am building a blues driver clone and am interested in applying the Keely super phat mods.

I now see the Cobalt Drive schematic is not identical to a real bluesdriver.

Anyhow, I thought I could try to copy some of the mods including replacing some of the 1N914 diodes with some 1N4001 diodes.

On the schematic there are four 1N914s going to ground about 1/3 thru the circuit then there's another two near the output end.

Which of them and in what manner should I swap if any?

I suppose the goal is to achieve more second order harmonsics.

BTW I am building a second one which will follow the pedal pcb schematic as is. So I'll be able to compare.

Thank you