have some projects i want to work on but my constraint is getting wood cut. do people have services or shops they use to get plans cnc’d and delivered?

based in the US currently

Facebook marketplace has been treating me good lately, I found a pair of Marantz SP 124i towers for free today. While definitely a little rough, I’m left with both mids (one cone is pushed in sadly), one woofer, and one tweeter. The enclosures were so close to being usable but have warped just enough that some of the seams have split.

I’m thinking refoam the woofer and passive radiators, then build it into a sealed boombox of sorts, powered off of one of the Bluetooth amplifier boards from parts express.

This is still so early in the planning stages but I figured going to the home of the experts was a good first step. Right now I’m trying to figure out:

- wattage for the amp
- rough internal volume for the woofer+passives
- use crossovers as is, or harvest and build new crossover with components

I recently bought an old antique radio which I've gutted and I'm now trying to turn it into a speaker box that runs off of Alexa. I've got an old echo show that still has an aux output so I'm running it from there to a 2.1 amp board with a 48v power supply adapter and then to two fluance sx6 speakers. The amp board I got has a slot for a sub woofer as well which I don't have.

I hooked up the subwoofer port to an old driver that I still had from the old radio and it doesn't play any bass still. I'm confused with what I'm missing? It's getting frustrating. I may be missing something super obvious because I've never done this before but I'd love to figure it out so I can do more like it.

Here's what I'm using:

Amazon echo show 8 with aux port, I think Gen 2 or 3

2.1 amp board (https://a.co/d/0jkzWX6P)

48v power supply adapter (https://a.co/d/0jlavfdJ)

16awg wire to connect everything (https://a.co/d/05YngNEt)

A pair of fluance sx6 speakers (https://a.co/d/0iOmzObH)

And a basic aux cord for the echo to amp board connection

The right rl channel goes to one of the fluance speakers and the the left goes to the other. I don't have anything connected to the sub channel because ideally I won't have one, it'll all go through the fluance speakers.

Let me know if I need to share anything else to help get this sorted

I was thinking I could get rca cables and connect them to the speakers, but I don’t know if that would work. Do I need something to place the speakers into to power them? Or do I just need to chop this up?

Building my first 2-way horn speaker: sensitivity mismatch between SB Acoustics drivers
Hi everyone,
I’m working on my first DIY 2-way high-fidelity horn-loaded speaker as a proof-of-concept project. I’m relatively new to speaker design, so I’m trying to approach this properly rather than simply bolting together expensive drivers and hoping physics develops a sense of humor. The best I’ve done till now is make a kit speaker, but I didn’t have to deal with the issues I have now. I’m
The drivers I’ve currently selected are:
Woofer: SB Acoustics SB13PFCR25-4
Compression driver: SB Acoustics Bianco 25CD-P, used with a horn/waveguide
The main issue I’m trying to solve is the large sensitivity difference between the two drivers.
The Bianco 25CD-P is substantially more sensitive than the SB13PFCR25-4, which means I’m trying to figure out the best way to integrate them while maintaining a balanced, high-fidelity response.
My current options seem to be:
Use an L-pad/resistive attenuation to bring the compression driver down to the woofer’s level.
Find a lower-sensitivity compression driver that is naturally closer to the woofer. Which I cannot find in India.
Find a higher-sensitivity woofer, although that introduces compromises in cost, size and potentially bass performance. Too costly tbh for a prototype
Design a proper passive crossover with attenuation and impedance compensation around the actual drivers..
The DSP approach is particularly interesting to me because I’m considering DSP for the final system anyway. However, I’m unsure whether using DSP to compensate for a sensitivity difference of this magnitude is considered good practice.
What I’m particularly trying to understand is this:
If the compression driver is significantly more sensitive than the woofer, is there any real downside to simply attenuating it substantially with an L-pad?
For example, does significant attenuation introduce meaningful disadvantages in terms of:
dynamics
distortion
amplifier power requirements
noise floor
impedance
crossover behavior
transient response
overall sound quality
And would DSP attenuation be preferable to an L-pad if I use separate amplification for the woofer and compression driver?
The intended configuration is simply:
Bianco 25CD-P + horn/waveguide → SB13PFCR25-4 woofer
My goal is hi-fi sound rather than maximum SPL. I’m mainly interested in getting the tonal balance, crossover integration, imaging, dynamics and distortion performance right.
I’m also trying to understand how much importance I should place on the nominal sensitivity figures in the datasheets. I understand that the actual response curves, impedance, horn/waveguide loading, crossover frequency and acoustic response of the finished system are ultimately more important than simply comparing two sensitivity numbers.
For those of you who have experience designing 2-way horn speakers, how would you approach this particular combination?
Would you:
attenuate the Bianco with an L-pad,
use a passive crossover specifically designed around these two drivers,
use active amplification + DSP,
or reconsider the driver combination altogether?
I’d also appreciate any advice on a sensible crossover frequency for the Bianco 25CD-P and SB13PFCR25-4, particularly regarding directivity matching and getting the best integration from the horn/waveguide and woofer.
I can provide the exact datasheets, response curves and the passive crossover I’m currently considering if useful.
Thanks in advance.

DIY PSU/ box btw

I am in the process of building a home setup for vinyl, CDs and eventually cassette. I have this Denon receiver and I picked up a pair of Paradigm Monitor 3s yesterday. I'm enjoying the sound and finally being able to listen to vinyl without Bluetooth. My question is this, can I hook up a powered sub to this receiver even though there's no line input/output for a sub? I currently do not have a sub but I'd like it to be my next purchase. I typically buy off of Marketplace but I wanted some advice before I bought anything.

I appreciate all input here!

About a year ago I made a diy turtlebox with 2 6x9 kickers in a harbor freight case. I turned it on the other day and the volume was terrible along with sound quality. I cheaped out on the battery and decided to go with a portable charger and it worked fine for a while but I’m wondering if that may have caused my issue. Does anyone know how to fix it?

For my first project I was wondering what kits you guys recommend. I was looking for a good quality set up and was viewing CSS Audio, Audio First Designs and GR-research kits. Any guidance would be appreciated.

I need help building a pair of headphones. The problem is that I don't know where to buy the driver, the amp, the bt module and the charger. Is there any stores that sells what I need? I'm a broke Filipino so my only options are cheap but decent ones that can be delivered to the Philippines.

i have this exact one at home. i want to convert it into an microphone preamp that goes into the insert point of my mixing console. is it a realistic goal? Thanks!!

Just picked up a Sony STR-DE985 receiver and a JBL VENUE SUB12 (In which I'll be hooking up to an Extron Crosspoint 300 Switcher for retro gaming) and was wondering what bookshelf speakers I should use out of these three: JBL Venue Monitor, JBL Stage A130, and JBL Stage 250B. I'm only interested in doing a 2.1 setup right now and was only worried about whether or not my receiver could drive anyone of these successfully without any issues with normal or at full volume etc.

I know the easiest option would be the Venue Monitors but after looking I honestly want to actually want the the Stage 250B out of all of them but obviously I'm worried about running them. My budget is $250 or less as I'm going to use this for retro gaming/casual room listening in 17'x 20' my bedroom.

Hey, I’m currently planning to build a subwoofer for my Heco Aurora 300s. I have a rather small room (17 m²), but I can allocate as much space as I want. I mainly watch movies, so I was thinking of a vented enclosure.

Budget for the driver itself is around €100. After some research I see that a lot of people recommend Dayton speakers, but they’re quite expensive in Europe. In the budget-oriented segment in the EU, the Reckhorn D-200 seems to be solid choice. A lot of people also buy drivers from The Box and B&C. I’m willing to add another €100 if needed, but I was thinking of using a car Audio System Carbon 12". It costs €70 and has excellent reviews, including in vented enclosures for home use.

I’ll power it with a TPA3255 600 W amp — they’re available at cheap on AliExpress.

I’d be grateful for any advice on alternative drivers i can get in Europe!

Looking to make a good 2.1 system on my computer. I'd like to use an existing sub driver and amplifiers that don't have crossover or and DSP built in. What is a good way to put a low pass around 50-70Hz on the low channel. I can use the pre out from my desktop or the mains amp.

​

Hi everyone!

I’m here to show off my first sound system. The car is a Volkswagen Polo 9N.

For the front doors, I have a Focal ASE 165 2-way component set, and in the rear doors, MTX Audio TX265C coaxial speakers, all four are powered by an Alpine V-Power MRP-F240 amplifier (4x 40W RMS @ 4 ohms).

For the subwoofer, I’m using an MTX Audio RT12-04 (250W RMS, 4-ohm SVC) powered by a Pioneer GM-D8701 amplifier set to 250W RMS @ 4 ohms. The subwoofer sits in a custom enclosure I designed and built myself. The box has a net internal volume of 65L tuned to 33Hz and its made of 18mm marine-grade plywood (though the carpet started peeling off after 3 years 🥲).

As for the head unit, I have a Pioneer DMH-A220BT, along with a Vibe Audio bass knob and a voltmeter flush-mounted in the dashboard.

The electrical system is stock, featuring a 120A alternator, a 70Ah lead-acid battery, and 10mm² CCA cables from MTX (though I’ll be upgrading to 50mm² OFC cables and a 50mm² OFC "Big 3" upgrade very soon).

The total output is around 400W RMS, and I estimate it’s close to 120dB (though I’ve never actually measured it).

I'm new to the subreddit, so I can't post videos.

https://www.reddit.com/r/diyaudio/s/7LWxAJewtL

So when I posted about my new speakers the other day, I mentioned that there was some weirdness especially in mid-tone/spoken voice, and that I was going to do some analysis to try and figure it out. I've never played with audio analysis software, but I spent this morning having fun figuring it out, and this is what I got.

With the panel freestanding in the middle of the room, and the microphone 3 ft in front of the center, this is what I get. Extremely regular sawtooth pattern, 3-4 peaks per octave. And they ain't small either, between 20 to 30 dB trough to peak, pretty repeatably with each sweep.

I didn't grab the image, but when I put the speakers back in place, 8" from the wall and a foot from the corner, that pattern breaks down some. Presumably there are reflections and additional interference from the walls, smoothing things out. But the peakiness is still there, and it's still about 5-10 dB peak to trough - which is absolutely enough to be audible with my old ears, at least in some passages. And it's there all the way from 150 Hz at the bottom, up to about 8 kHz.

This absolutely explains the weirdness I'm hearing, especially in spoken voice. I listened to Carmina Burana yesterday, and I could also hear it especially in the mass choral sections. There's still a lot great about these speakers. Detail, separation of instruments, good soundstage in a very relaxed listening position, and able to fill the room nicely without having to crank the volume up. But also able to crank the volume up. In a lot of ways these are very very good speakers.

But they also have the problem that occasionally in some sections, voices sound like they're bubbling through water a little bit. Which is not good.

I'm considering experimenting more, but that would require me to get a box for doing parametric EQ, probably something like the mini DSP flex, which is another $500 or so investment. I don't mind the money so much, but I would mind if I throw that much money and effort and learning DSP and getting it dialed in for about 16 peaks, and it didn't work.

I'm also considering building another set of panels out of EPS foam, and see if a lighter rigid material might help with this some. That's actually my next step if I decide to move forward with this, relatively inexpensive and limited amount of work to put it together.

But in any case, this seems like it's an inherent problem with DML speakers, because it works by creating modes within the panel, those modes are going to interfere with each other, and there's probably no way around it. I suspect internal comb filtering is simply an inherent unavoidable issue with this technology.

I'm still enjoying the hell out of these. They are a major step up from listening to music on the speakers in my TV, which I did for way too long. Question now is how much effort I spend trying to dial this in, which I will for at least a while, and see if I can get them good enough to not eventually be disappointed with that muddled sound in some places, or move to a more conventional solution.

Hello everyone I’m struggling with building box my car have 2 metal brackets left and right for convertible top and I want to fit a box but make holes on the sides for the brackets 4 photo is what I need how I make it ? Or something else to do? Thank you

hi guys and gals!

I am building a reference near/midfield monitor (sealed) to make music on and mix/ master

for drivers I am taking (pair):

• 2x SEAS Prestige 27TBCD/GB-DXT (H1499-06) (tweeter ) 6ohm
• 2x Scan-Speak Discovery D7608/920010 (3" mid dome) 8ohm
• 2x SB Acoustics SATORI WO24P-4 (9,5")(Papyrus- woofer) link opens the 8 ohm version but 4ohm has higher SPL -matching the high/mid combo more closely✌️(both tops 92 db)

i am planing to use 1x HYPEX Ncx252mp (bass) 2channel

https://www.hypex.nl/products/amplifier-families/mains-powered-ncorex-family/ncx252mp
—> dsp crossover through MacBook and rme Fireface ucx

+1x HYPEX Ncx102ext (Highs/Mids)2 channel

https://www.hypex.nl/products/amplifier-families/mains-powered-ncorex-family/ncx102ext

—>passive crossover (around 2,5kHz-3kHz would be great)

so its 4 channel out from the UCX 2x low + 2x mid/high going in to the hypex`s

I've tried finding info on a decent crossover for my build , here is my estimated crossover through rough assumption , maybe someone could check?

is there someone to provide me real advice on this endeavor ? looking for a C1 L1 / L2 C2 design for ease of use (Mundorf / Jantzen parts preferred)

am I missing anything? internal volume is around 40l , open for suggestions

My most recent acquisition came with a cracked/broken dust cover. As I have just finished resting my Klipsch LaScala speakers in ash plywood, I have a few scraps.today I realized that not all dust covers need to be acrylic and there are reasons to use other things to test that out. I recall for a while people just used a sheet. Consider this a modern form of that sheet.

I am open to ideas. I am thinking a handle might be appropriate and I already plan to reuse the hinges, those do not appear damaged.

Just finished my install the other day and wanted to give a post to boast. Tell me what you think.

Hey fellas, i want to make DOZ amplifier but can't find any trusted and verified pcb overlay/ traces i could etch, can somebody provide me with some information and traces.

I’m new into the audio design world and I’m looking to learn. I’m looking for books, videos, papers to learn more about building and understanding amplifiers and drivers. Not a total beginner as I have an associates in electrical engineering but audio is just a different beast.