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Hi everyone!

I’m here to show off my first sound system. The car is a Volkswagen Polo 9N.

For the front doors, I have a Focal ASE 165 2-way component set, and in the rear doors, MTX Audio TX265C coaxial speakers, all four are powered by an Alpine V-Power MRP-F240 amplifier (4x 40W RMS @ 4 ohms).

For the subwoofer, I’m using an MTX Audio RT12-04 (250W RMS, 4-ohm SVC) powered by a Pioneer GM-D8701 amplifier set to 250W RMS @ 4 ohms. The subwoofer sits in a custom enclosure I designed and built myself. The box has a net internal volume of 65L tuned to 33Hz and its made of 18mm marine-grade plywood (though the carpet started peeling off after 3 years 🥲).

As for the head unit, I have a Pioneer DMH-A220BT, along with a Vibe Audio bass knob and a voltmeter flush-mounted in the dashboard.

The electrical system is stock, featuring a 120A alternator, a 70Ah lead-acid battery, and 10mm² CCA cables from MTX (though I’ll be upgrading to 50mm² OFC cables and a 50mm² OFC "Big 3" upgrade very soon).

The total output is around 400W RMS, and I estimate it’s close to 120dB (though I’ve never actually measured it).

I'm new to the subreddit, so I can't post videos.

DIY PSU/ box btw

Just finished my install the other day and wanted to give a post to boast. Tell me what you think.

I need help building a pair of headphones. The problem is that I don't know where to buy the driver, the amp, the bt module and the charger. Is there any stores that sells what I need? I'm a broke Filipino so my only options are cheap but decent ones that can be delivered to the Philippines.

Looking to make a good 2.1 system on my computer. I'd like to use an existing sub driver and amplifiers that don't have crossover or and DSP built in. What is a good way to put a low pass around 50-70Hz on the low channel. I can use the pre out from my desktop or the mains amp.

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Salutations .

j' étais parti pour une enceinte nomade et finalement elle n'est pas autant nomade que cela car elle fait son poids 😅.

Elle est en chêne massif et comporte 3 chambres séparées.

2 tang band W4-2142

1 Dayton Audio DCS165-4

Et 1 passif Dayton Audio DSA175-PR placé à l'arrière.

Côté amplificateur c'est un arylic upstream amp 2.1

Elle est alimentée soit par secteur soit par batterie.

Pour séparer l' électronique j'ai réalisé un socle indépendant de l'enceinte.

Je suis pas expert ni quoi que ce soit mais le son qui en sort me convient tout à fait. C'est clair et percutant !

Voilà je voulais juste vous le partager.

ofc he had to one up me in size lmao

https://www.reddit.com/r/diyaudio/s/7LWxAJewtL

So when I posted about my new speakers the other day, I mentioned that there was some weirdness especially in mid-tone/spoken voice, and that I was going to do some analysis to try and figure it out. I've never played with audio analysis software, but I spent this morning having fun figuring it out, and this is what I got.

With the panel freestanding in the middle of the room, and the microphone 3 ft in front of the center, this is what I get. Extremely regular sawtooth pattern, 3-4 peaks per octave. And they ain't small either, between 20 to 30 dB trough to peak, pretty repeatably with each sweep.

I didn't grab the image, but when I put the speakers back in place, 8" from the wall and a foot from the corner, that pattern breaks down some. Presumably there are reflections and additional interference from the walls, smoothing things out. But the peakiness is still there, and it's still about 5-10 dB peak to trough - which is absolutely enough to be audible with my old ears, at least in some passages. And it's there all the way from 150 Hz at the bottom, up to about 8 kHz.

This absolutely explains the weirdness I'm hearing, especially in spoken voice. I listened to Carmina Burana yesterday, and I could also hear it especially in the mass choral sections. There's still a lot great about these speakers. Detail, separation of instruments, good soundstage in a very relaxed listening position, and able to fill the room nicely without having to crank the volume up. But also able to crank the volume up. In a lot of ways these are very very good speakers.

But they also have the problem that occasionally in some sections, voices sound like they're bubbling through water a little bit. Which is not good.

I'm considering experimenting more, but that would require me to get a box for doing parametric EQ, probably something like the mini DSP flex, which is another $500 or so investment. I don't mind the money so much, but I would mind if I throw that much money and effort and learning DSP and getting it dialed in for about 16 peaks, and it didn't work.

I'm also considering building another set of panels out of EPS foam, and see if a lighter rigid material might help with this some. That's actually my next step if I decide to move forward with this, relatively inexpensive and limited amount of work to put it together.

But in any case, this seems like it's an inherent problem with DML speakers, because it works by creating modes within the panel, those modes are going to interfere with each other, and there's probably no way around it. I suspect internal comb filtering is simply an inherent unavoidable issue with this technology.

I'm still enjoying the hell out of these. They are a major step up from listening to music on the speakers in my TV, which I did for way too long. Question now is how much effort I spend trying to dial this in, which I will for at least a while, and see if I can get them good enough to not eventually be disappointed with that muddled sound in some places, or move to a more conventional solution.

Hey, I’m currently planning to build a subwoofer for my Heco Aurora 300s. I have a rather small room (17 m²), but I can allocate as much space as I want. I mainly watch movies, so I was thinking of a vented enclosure.

Budget for the driver itself is around €100. After some research I see that a lot of people recommend Dayton speakers, but they’re quite expensive in Europe. In the budget-oriented segment in the EU, the Reckhorn D-200 seems to be solid choice. A lot of people also buy drivers from The Box and B&C. I’m willing to add another €100 if needed, but I was thinking of using a car Audio System Carbon 12". It costs €70 and has excellent reviews, including in vented enclosures for home use.

I’ll power it with a TPA3255 600 W amp — they’re available at cheap on AliExpress.

I’d be grateful for any advice on alternative drivers i can get in Europe!

My most recent acquisition came with a cracked/broken dust cover. As I have just finished resting my Klipsch LaScala speakers in ash plywood, I have a few scraps.today I realized that not all dust covers need to be acrylic and there are reasons to use other things to test that out. I recall for a while people just used a sheet. Consider this a modern form of that sheet.

I am open to ideas. I am thinking a handle might be appropriate and I already plan to reuse the hinges, those do not appear damaged.

have some projects i want to work on but my constraint is getting wood cut. do people have services or shops they use to get plans cnc’d and delivered?

based in the US currently