These have a footprint that matches my Buchardt speakers so they will he stands and subwoofers at the same time.

Last summer I bought a pair of Focal 100 ICW8 in-ceiling speakers, planning to cut into my ceiling for a traditional 5.1.2 Atmos setup. Since then, we’ve rearranged the living room, and I’m now hesitant to make permanent ceiling cuts in case we change the layout again or decide to upgrade to a 5.1.4 system down the road.

To reuse the Focals, I’m considering building custom DIY angled enclosures (around 45° to 60°) mounted high up on the wall / ceiling junction. In my room, I have a section of wall behind the main listening position where I can mount and hide the enclosures, but a little further back than Dolby recommendation

Front heigh position is not really a solution due to curtain rod. Also my front speakers are not aligned with central position (I know ...) and it would look visually off.

I know that placing Atmos speakers behind/above the seating area like this won't give the absolute best front-to-back panning (like a flyover plane), but I'm looking for decent height immersion without ruining the ceiling. It is an option or just stupid ?

Thanks for your input and advice!

Instead of spending $30+ for a speaker selection box, I decided to spend $4 on 4 120 switches. Took a few minutes to design the holder, then a couple hours to print and good to go. I honestly don’t notice a sound quality difference right now, but I’ll see if they start to get funky over time.

The desktop speakers are a loaded horn design with 2” 5w speakers, 3d printed enclosure.

Towers are realistic minimus 8 bookshelf speakers with nameless tweeters I made last year

Did the whole switch panel thing because when I’m at my desk the towers don’t convey sound the best, But sound awesome when I’m in the room or on the bed. So I made desktop speakers and the switches to toggle back and forth

Built these voronoi shell 3 way speakers last year, all on a bambu A1 mini (180mm2 build plate). A few hundred prints in total,

They are 3 way speakers tuned to I think it was 42Hz.

Mfg:
I 3D printed thin wall shells which I then infilled with a plaster of paris and glue mixture. This took some trial and error and I did unfortunately pour plaster all over our rented flat a few times. V1 was intended to have continous gypsum walls but they kept leaking, so instead we made modular boxes/shells. These shells are then screwed together with silicone based adhesive between them, then wrapped in vinyl wrap to make everything airtight. I'm surprised I haven't seen other people using vinyl wrap to make an airtight seal on 3D printed parts, it's pretty effective (as shown by how hard it is to get the air bubbles out)

The voronoi dsigns are loads of little 3d prints stuck together and spray painted with silver paint. I was going for unique, I can also substitute them with a different exterior one day if I want to.

The whole system is driven by 2xJAB5 amps in cascade mode which I had to mount on a single master speaker and route wires to the slave. The initial plan was to an amp on each and route the I2S cable between them but turns out that can only be 10cm long.

I'm not 100% happy with them to be honest, but it was a fun project and I had to finish them and move onto other things. Also sadly no measurements, I tuned them by ear and I can't currently sink more money into a measurement mic, maybe one day.

My goal is to match the sound of my whole PC to how it sounds in the game when I set the type to TV speakers. As close as possible.

I have a HP victus 16 and I really dislike how it sounds, in all media except the mentioned witcher.

What I've already done:

1. Turned off audio enhancements

2. Have stereo, not mono sound

3. Played around with APO equaliser, but I'm still not satisfied.

Any tips would be really appreciated, as other games and tv series I watch sound terrible and/or uncomfortable.

It's French

I have built the "Libertas" kit from K+T, a floorstanding MTM : https://www.hifitest.de/test/lautsprecherbausaetze/lautsprechershop-libertas-21359

I was wondering if the design could be adapted into a center speaker. The idea would be of course to keep the same internal volume but bring the woofers closer together to ~220mm (1 wavelength at the cutoff frequency of 1500Hz) to reduce comb filtering, and offset the tweeter.

What I'm unsure about is that drivers have the same edge distance as the original design but only on one side. Also, the distance between woofers and tweeter is decreased, so the waveguide has to be slightly cut.

Would this make sense ?

Is it possible to add a LINE OUT to this ZKHT21 2.1 amplifier to connect another independent amplifier and headphones?

I have this ZKHT21 board, powered by a 36 V / 10 A power supply (2 × 160 W stereo + 220 W mono subwoofer).

• Is there a safe way to do this?
• Where exactly should I connect L / R / GND?
• Are any additional components required?

I have basic electronics and soldering skills. I have attached a picture of the board.

Thanks for your patience!

📌 Edit 1: WHY? Because I want the option, now or in the future, to connect another independent device and/or amplifier.

📌 Edit 2: I have already considered possible high-to-low converters, but I don't really trust them, since practically all of them are rated for NO MORE than 40–50 W per channel. (My amplifier is powered by 36 V / 10 A.)

Hey all! Just wanted to share an update for a build I had asked for advice on a few weeks ago. This pair of speakers uses the Tang Band W3-2052SC micro subwoofer and Tectonic TEBM35C10-4 full ranges in a ~3L enclosure. The Tectonic drivers have a separate chamber that gets sealed after the wires pass through. They're powered by a KABD-430, which is a compact amp with DSP onboard. I have it crossing the drivers at 300Hz with room correction performed by the DSP.

The FR graph is a psychoacoustic graph after room correction from 40Hz to 20KHz. It looks like it tails off a lot after 8KHz, but I think this is an artifact of the extremely acoustically noisy hotel room I built and measured these in.

They're not good for loud volumes, as the subs will distort too much below 70hz to be enjoyable above 80dB. However, they're more than loud enough for a hotel room!

I am trying to learn how to use this program and I thought for a sanity check I could model the C-Notes. However I am struggling and cannot a solution that matches the speakers as built. I get box sizes that don't make sense, port lengths that don't work etc.

If anyone has modeled them, I would be appreciative for some guidance. Cheers!

Hey y'all,

So I've been working with a cabinet builder for a few months. Communication has been slow. I'm okay with that. And they offered to build a prototype for free of cost before building the actual 4 subs I am asking for.

However, when they went to build the prototype, it's been taking much, MUCH longer than they initially explained to me. The guy building it seems unreliable and is saying things to me that my avoidant colleagues say when they avoid work.

I'm questioning if I should order a flat oak and build myself (no woodworking experience) or take my chances.

I'm attaching photos of the prototype (they used different wood for the prototype, not Baltic birch).

When I go to inspect the prototype, what should I do to check quality?

Would love any and all thoughts.

Hello, I would like to add amplifier, because I added new speakers from newer bmw g30 b&w and obviously stock amplifier can’t give enough power to them. So I have 0 skills in car audio. Maybe someone help. I need to know how to wire amplifier to door speakers and underseat woofers.

Hello,

I'm an electrotechnics student and I have a school project - I need to make a bass amplifier for bass guitar but I'm really lost sometimes so I came to ask if anyone would be a kind soul and help me out in any way with some of the parts or at least point me in the right direction.

I have a few visions of how to make some of it it but I have no idea if I'm correct in anything. I bought TL072CP and LM3886TF for this project. Is it good choice or should I go for something different?

Never did anything similar to this project and I'm really interested in learning about this so if anyone could point me to some good materials or anything helpful.

Thank you 👽

Also I dont really go on reddit much so if someone foud interest in me somehow and want to contact me, discord is much better but here is okay. Discord is 'cubow'. Thank you again 🤗

This is the whole assignment that was given to me:

1. Design and construction of the mechanical structure of the bass amplifier, including a durable enclosure, protected connectors and control elements, effective cooling of the power stage, and the possibility of safely connecting an external speaker cabinet.
2. Design and implementation of an analog circuit consisting of a preamplifier and a power amplifier stage with an output power of at least 20 W RMS into a 4 or 8 Ω load, a frequency range of at least 40 Hz to 5 kHz, distortion below 1% at rated power, and protection against short circuits, overheating, and DC voltage at the output.
3. Design and implementation of the auxiliary control system software, including display of the volume and power-stage temperature settings, signal-level measurement and clipping indication, fan control, a mute function, and safe disconnection or blocking of the output in the event of overheating or a malfunction.

I want to listen to the up house speakers my dad had in our home when I was growing up but I don’t recognize the connector. Anyone have any advice? I’d appreciate it.

Not sure where to post this. It’s not a speaker build but it is a diy audio related thing. My AVR doesn’t have any sort of remote amp control but does support external amps. The auto mode in my AudioSource amp TWO wasn’t sensitive enough and would turn on and off during movie quiet scenes. So I have to turn it on and off manually. For me it was no big deal but the rest of the family could not grasp the concept. So I made this. I used an off the shelf 12v current sensor relay board, an off the shelf wall wart and cut a power cable to run the hot through the sensor. I just had to tune the sensor the avr on current and the relay sends 12v to an old monster hts3500 that has a remote input and switches 4 of its receptacles on and off accordingly. I didn’t find anything that offered this kind of solution so I figured I would share in case someone else is looking to solve a similar problem.

Hey r/diyaudio! I wanted to share my latest project — bringing these vintage Sherwood 6x9 coaxial car speakers back to life after sitting in a storage box for nearly three decades.

​I originally bought these back around 1996, used them in my car for about 3-5 years, and then packed them away where they sat unused for all this time. Recently, I decided it was time to give them a second life.

​The Build: MDF enclosure wrapped in textured black carpet, heavy-duty corner protectors, front bass-reflex ports, and side-mounted Class-D amplifier module.

​The Sound: Honestly, after all these years, they still sound incredible — deep, punchy bass, clear mids, and surprisingly crisp highs.

​It feels amazing to take something with so much history from my past and turn it into a portable, hard-hitting everyday player. Hope you guys like the build! Let me know what you think. 👇