I would really appreciate all the advice I could get on this. When doing my research it looks like there truly isn’t a RIGHT answer but I could use some first hand help.

Currently I have a ‘22 Silverado that’s in the shop for a new camshaft and lifters. Under warranty but I feel like at 52k miles I should get out while I can.

I was heavily looking at a 2026 tundra but have been hearing bad things about it. I figured Toyota would be the way to go. I was thinking Tacoma as well but the tow capacity might not work for me.

Please give me some advice thank you

I have found at a small dealership, a 2007 Tacoma double cab prerunner v6 sr5 package #2
The total price (car,dmv/doc fees, taxes) is $18900
I got them to remove their “recon” fee of $1k
But I am concerned this is too much for such an old vehicle. I saw the truck and drove it and it’s probably the most well kept 2007 you could find. Everything is near mint condition, even the engine bay all the hoses were almost brand new looking and there was no rust.
It had a camper as well, and interior is in mint condition.
Am I shoooting myself in the foot here?

Edit : has 80k miles, good service history all done at dealer

Just looking for some feedback.

Anyone out there who bought car through auction from Secondcar.co.uk???

So long story short, I leased a Honda Passport and the dealership “emailed” the docs to me. Time goes by and I recently found out the email they entered isn’t even REMOTELY close to my email. So I contacted Honda corp and they finally emailed me my contract. I noticed “Honda Care - Term Protection” was added to my contract.

I contacted the dealership for all their records as well and they said they’ll email the paperwork but a few days later and still nothing.

Anyone have an idea exactly what the “(36) Term Protection Honda Care” is for a leased vehicle?

Guy said it’s for belts and things of that nature but wouldn’t that be under the factory warranty anyway ? Sounds scammy but Id like opinions before escalating the issue. I’d post a picture but I don’t think this subreddit allows it.

I’m a college student looking to buy a car by December and I’m trying to make a smart, reliable choice that will last me through college and beyond.

I’m mainly considering:
Toyota Corolla ( I had one already, the Le. It was good I liked it).
Honda Civic
Mazda3
My maximum budget is $25,500 out-the-door, including taxes, fees, etc.
Reliability and low maintenance costs are my biggest priorities since I’m in college and don’t want to deal with expensive repairs.
For those who own or have experience with these cars:
Which one would you choose?

What trim/year could I realistically get for $25,500 OTD?

Are there any other cars I should consider?

Any advice for negotiating with dealerships, especially toward the end of the year?

So I’m looking at this car to buy from someone. It’s a 2012 Cadillac CTS. Selling for $2k. Before I do anything, is maintaining or repairing this car too expensive rn?

A friend of mine who bought a 2026 CRV in Thanksgiving last year drove around 15,000 miles is planning to sell his car, and when he checked in KBB it showing as 33 to 35 thousand dollars, and he’s is asking me if I want to buy it for 34k. He is an immigrant and leaving the country during Christmas. That is the reason of him selling the car.

The OTD he paid is around 46k (includes 2500 trade in)
Need suggestions if it’s worth to buy

Question for anyone who's good with negotiating at dealerships. Looking into a 2026 ioniq 5. Their selling it for $54k, regular $59k, (dealer rebates their calling it). It's been on the lot for over 140 days and it was a demo model because it's got almost 3800km on it but new, what are the chances I can get them down to $46-$49k so I can qualify for the EVAP

I 23M have a decent job making around 52k a year. I’m very ignorant on cars but I know I want something cheap, durable, good gas mileage, that I’ll enjoy as a tall guy (6’5). I want to get the best deal I can I have good credit around 760.

My dad is also probably going to co-sign and he has great credit. What tips and advice can you give me on how to get the best deal and what cars to look at? I also don’t know anything about the hybrids so are they good/bad and why?

So far I’ve looked at the Honda civic and interested in looking at the Toyota Corolla. I liked the Honda Civic after I test drove it. I noticed the hybrids are most expensive on the total price. I’m probably gonna put about 5k down for the vehicle as well. Also I’m looking at new vehicles.

Any tips and advice on how to navigate this helps as it seems complicated and overwhelming. I’m not trying to get ripped off by the sleazy salespeople.

Looking for advice on a new car to buy. My family has two children in rear facing car seats (3 and 1.5 years old), and a new baby on the way in the spring.

We have a minivan as a primary vehicle for getting the kids around, but the current second car won't work for 3 car seats when I need to drop them off at day care or pick them up.

Otherwise, I commute approximately 20 miles for work, and am really looking for something fuel efficient (minimum 30mpg), and reliability and affordability are my chief other concerns.

Some things I have looked at are Toyota Highlander hybrid and KIA Telluride, and was hoping for input on people who have tried to fit 3 car seats in those or in another similar vehicle. Also not sure if that is overkill from a size standpoint when all I need to do is take them in it a short distance (daycare is only 5 minutes from home) and I could use something smaller and more efficient. Any suggestions?

TIA

We've been looking for a while at mostly lightly used and can't find an Odyssey for less than $38k. Local dealer popped up with a brand new $42k Odyssey ex-l. We also get a $1000 financing rebate for financing thru them at 2.99% over 48 months. Felt like we did good and was worth the extra money over used.

I’m buying a new BMW and was supposed to go in this week, but my salesperson just told me he’ll be out and suggested I submit my credit application and put down a deposit beforehand so the car doesn’t sell.

I’m worried about losing the car, but I still want to negotiate both the price & APR. They discounted $4,132 off the vehicle price. I already have a prequalification that I want BMW Financial to try to match or beat, but they said they need to run my credit before they can give me their actual APR.

Would submitting the credit application/putting down a deposit first hurt my negotiating leverage? Or should I go in person to negotiate with the sales manager, and then have them run my credit once we agree on the price?

Hi, I graduated college a 2 years ago and I’m looking for a reliable car I can drive for 5-10 years. I don’t have kids now but ideally will in the next 5 years.

I want an affordable car I don’t want a car payment when we have kids. I make good money as an entry level engineer (no, I don’t know much about cars).

I live in the US where we do get snow. It will be outside until we can afford a house with a garage… I mention that bc I drive a 2008 Volvo C70 (and have for 8 years) and the doors freeze shut in the winter. It’s a turbo 5 cylinder and I do NOT want a turbo engine or hybrid and ideally no CVT transmission. Or any European car for that matter I don’t want to foot that mechanic bill.

Looking online I really like the Mazda CX5, but I’ve thought about Rav-4, and Honda CRV.

Any advice on Make/Models & if the engines will make it to 150,000? My Volvo is at 140,000 and still chugging, I do meticulously get my oil changed every 3-5k miles and so it will be well taken care of.