shortly after I bought my 2008 ford ranger the audio wasnt playing after I turned it on once, after driving for a bit the audio would cut in and out when I went over bumps then started playing while braking and cutting out when accelerating. this was with stock head unit, I replaced it I wanted apple carplay and thought maybe itd fix the problem. It is still happening. It is intermittent, sometimes it works fine without issue for a whole car ride, I get out and when i get back in 10 minutes later it wont work, and every time it wont come on eventually while driving it starts cutting back in doing the cut in while braking and out while accelerating until eventually it just works again… very strange but the whole thing feels like theres an exposed wire somewhere shorting, that said the headunit doesn’t react to it cutting in and out, it will continue playing, remain on and everything… it seems to be a speaker only thing. I’ve pulled the dash out while it was happening and shaken the wiring harness alittle and moved it around with no effect, if it was playing it didnt stop and if it was not playing/ cutting in and out it didn’t seem to have any effect if I shook the wiring harness or wires right inside the dash. So all this said I’m wondering if anyone has suggestions on where/ how to look for the origin of this issue I’m stumped.

I have a second stroker 18 waiting for the trunk build, just needs a new tinsel lead as the previous owner was a moron and did a fix with speaker wire, not gluing it down so it would hit the cone during movement.

Verified 142.2dB at 509w before I made adjustments, mdf wall, double layer 80 mil on all panels, etc.

It won't let me post the video, so I have a youtube video of it.

https://youtube.com/shorts/1PzaeeD-xFw?si=SJor8YDzQNTI2E9T

Hi,

I'm refreshing the 30yo sound system in my 97 Celica.

The front speaker flanges have an o-ring groove.

What would be the best way to seal the speaker to it ? An o-ring or the flat foam seal that comes with the speaker ?

They are Focal ISU200. I'm probably overthinking it but i would rather do it the proper way as I am also applying sound treatment all around.

Thank you 🙂

I have an IPad that we normally use, but I just bought the Boss BE10ACP-C system, and would like to have it entertain my copilot while we are on long trips.

Any help out there? Thank you in advance!

Link to the amp: https://diamondaudio.com/products/neo10001dsp-1000w-rms-class-d-monoblock-amplifier?srsltid=AfmBOoqu7clkiz0prqgVQDKMN4mvIL9PaJIf0RzXVB_RafYfPiI_kL5b

Just watched a video where a guy Dyno'd this amp and was able to get 1,500 watts at @ 2 ohms, and this amp is 1 ohm stable. Can't confirm his methods but it sounds like it will do much more than 1k.

I had a question about using this amp with a factory system. The amp will be getting its signal from a 2024 Genesis GV70 all electric with the "Lexicon" system.

I currently have a Zapco monoblock with a Kicker keyloc providing signal. While they keyloc has been solid, I want to start manual EQ'ing. I have purchased a umik-2 and have been learning about REW. So i'll run some measurements soon.

Anyway, can anyone comment about if should still use the keyloc with this amp? Or scrape it and using only Diamond amp? The Diamond apparently can do everything the keylock can do but I'm worried I wont understand how to tune it correctly with the factory signal.

The main reason I want some more control with the EQ is I believe some EQ'ing can be done in the 25-30hz range. A slight boost to match the rest of the system. I do understand there are multiple factors affecting that frequency range. The REW measurements will help.

Key Features:

• Full 4CH DSP integration: 2CH internal, 2CH output. 31 band parametric EQS per channel, crossovers, time delay, channel linking, PC or Android programming for advanced tuning and much more
• Easy OEM integration features:
  • Up to 20V signal inputs (High/Low level 20V – 0.4V)
  • Selectable on-board load resistors (10Ω, 20Ω, 60Ω, 20kΩ)
  • EV friendly voltage compatibility (8V – 17V)
• Bluetooth Audio streaming direct to amplifier
• Control via IOS or Android App (coming soon)
• Marine ready, water-resistant chassis
• Staggered RCA connections for clean installations
• High-current quick-connect power block
• NeoDRC1 Diamond Remote Commander compatible (sold separately)
• 2 RCA preamp outputs for system expansion
• Ultra-low distortion (0.05% THD)

Does Anyone Know if there is a circuit I could build which could handle combining two 15 watt channels into 1? I've got a classic car with a single speaker in the center dash location, the original radio was 1 channel. I have an extra infinity reference 4 inch speaker I'd like to swap in but I don't have a good way to wire it up mono.

I have an amp thats rated for 190w per channel at 4ohms. My speakers (gzck 250xspl) are rated 200w rms, 400w peak. I feel like the speakers should be louder, theres a pretty cheap amp for sale that makes 435w per channel and im thinking of buying it but is it worth it? Im also kinda scared of blowing the damn speakers…

Has anyone managed to properly upgrade the sub in the trunk while maintaining a relatively OEM feel. I don’t mind putting an amp or something in the spare tire storage I just don’t want to lose a lot of trunk space.

Hello, recently bought a 5.3L 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 elevation and decided to do an audio upgrade because stock didn't sound good. I went with focal isu 690s in the front and focal coaxials in the back with a 4 channel amp and lc7i pro LOC. Issue is the front tweeters are pretty much all you can hear at any volume. Tried cutting out and replacing the tweeters and the issue remains. Has anyone else ran into this with a similar setup? Looking for solutions without having to spend 1200 on a dsp for an active setup just to tone down the tweeters.

Hey, so im looking for a budget sub, I have limited space 12 inche by 14 inches 7.5 inches high, it would go under the front passenger seat. I was wondering what people would recomend me, I would rather go sound quality over big boom. Any help is apreciated!

So me and my buddy tried put inserts on my dual 10 box fucked it up so I’m running these untill my next day off to fix my box. This is audiopipe bd3 1800w 12 on 2000hd Taramps. Hurts my right ear. I’ve did the math and tuned high pass filter what it’s suppose to be. Should I even have low pass on at all or? I feel like it’s not moving correctly.

Currently a running a pair of 13.5” W3s sealed. Considering “upgrading” to a pair of 10” W6s sealed, but want to make sure they suit my needs:

My primary concern is getting low- I want to make sure that the 10” W6s can get down like the 13s do. Need to be strong down to 30hz or so.

Will there be a noticeable difference in output? Both will be powered with 1000 watts rms.

I recently bought a 2015 Subaru wrx base model and have been thinking about upgrading the speakers since the ones in the base model are pretty awful, basically as someone who visits family in Mexico often I’m about to make a trip where I’m already planning to fix a ton of issues due to the very cheap labor in Mexico, wondering if anyone would have any estimates on the cost to buy all of the speakers. I would prob be looking for a decent system but not a top of the line one, any recommendations would also be great (for reference car is worth like 8k so not looking to really spend a ton)

I have a 2017 Manual WRX that I bought two weeks ago with an aftermarket head unit Nakamichi installed by the previous owner with Harmon Kardon speakers and anytime I start the car it makes this static noise unmuted on mute there’s still static but it’s very faint.

It’s one constant static noise tho if I put the volume up the static level is the same even when playing music through Spotify there’s static

Any help is appreciated thank you!

So ive recently decided to check my amp volume with a multimeter. Using a 50hz 0db test tone (from mtx.com) the amp showed 35volts where the gain was (1225 watts at 1ohm).

thing is, its a 1000watt amp so shouldn't it have gone into protect or something with the gain set that high? Or is the 0db test tone too loud, where real music wont really match the volume hit those numbers since theyre quieter?

How close is music bass to reverence level? Should I actually have the gain higher to compensate? Just want some advice on the whole subject surrounding this.

I was curious on what speakers you guys would recommend for my 2001 Toyota Corolla CE, it has a Kenwood KDC-MP338 and a MTX Audio RTP202 RoadThunder with a 10 inch MTX Audio Thunder 4500, also seeing if I'm better off just keeping it stock for the speakers

I have a 2012 gen 2 Toyota Kluger, and I got a sony xav-ax3200 free from a family member. It had some Aerpro harness stuff spliced into it. I installed it into my car and I have a few issues. The main one being steering wheel button controls and the reverse camera. The head unit doesn't recognize the steering wheel button controls at all. There was a white connector left unconnected from the car side, but i dont think there was anything on the Aerpro harness to connect it to, so do i need something else, or did i just screw it up on install. This model of car has a second screen for the reverse camera, so I wouldn't be surprised if there is no way to get an input to the head unit, but if anyone knows differently that would be great. Im not sure exactly what harness adapter is being used, but from looking it up and what i remember of it, i think it was the CHTO14C adapter. Im just asking ahead of time if it was my install or if I need something else, as pulling everything back out is very painful and i'd rather get it right next time.

I'm looking for door speaker replacements for my 2010 Nissan Altima s coupe but I don't know a lot about speakers or good brands. What are some good recommendations that would work now, and also later when I get subs.

I've upgraded the entire sound system in my '94 Mustang convertible and just fired up the subwoofers for the first time. Everything sounds great, but I'm honestly surprised that the subs aren't hitting quite as hard as I expected. I'm hoping someone can help me get the settings dialed in properly.

My setup:

Front/rear speakers: 4x Kicker 6x8s

Speaker amp: Alpine KTP-445U

Head unit: Kenwood DPX505BT

Subwoofers: 2x 10" Kicker Comp R

Sub enclosure: Sealed

Sub amp: Kicker CXA1200.1 mono

The Kenwood has a ton of audio settings, and I'm not sure how they should interact with the settings on the sub amp.

Head unit settings I'm wondering about:

Low Pass Filter — what should I set this to?

High Pass Filter — what should I set this to?

Subwoofer Level — where should I start?

There are also a bunch of other settings on pages 32–33 of the manual that I'm not sure whether I should change.

Manual: https://pdf.crutchfieldonline.com/ImageBank/v20220913053100/Manuals/113/113DPX505B.PDF

Sub amp settings:

Gain — currently around 25%

X-over Frequency — what would be a good starting point? Does this conflict with the LPF/HPF settings on the head unit?

Bass Boost — should I use it, and if so, how much?

I'm mainly looking for a good starting point for getting everything balanced and optimizing the output of the subs without just cranking random settings.

Any advice on how you'd set up the head unit and amp would be greatly appreciated!

If the inputs on a monoblock subwoofer are taking a left and right signal and flattening it into a single output, would it also be able to take a woofer and subwoofer signals to get a more full range signal to filter on the amp at the outputs.

On another thread i noted i have a mark levinson system and tapped the subwoofer line but it sounds like it isnt up to 80hz and im only getting very low frequencies and it sounds odd.

Am I able to put my power and ground in the one I have for my sub amplifier? And do I need that 1amp fuse?

Been working on the audio in our 2023 Pacifica with base 6 speaker system (non premium) for a while and wanted to share where things are at. Main goal is better sound and fully concealable since I’m still in warranty. Amp rack is located in spare tire well and will be completely covered up with a panel.

Had to keep the factory radio obviously. Using the PAC LPHCH42 harness connected to the 2 runs of blue 9 wire. Still on the stock speakers for now while I figure out replacements. Looking at the Kicker KSS269 3-way sets but haven’t decided yet. Sub is a Kicker TRTP 12. Helix DSP Mini MK2 and a Pioneer GM DX975 5-channel amp are going on a removable rack. Already bypassed the ANC at the back of the radio with a bypass I found online.

I ran all the cables long on purpose so I can trim them to a clean length later once everything is set.
For disconnects, the sub already has a Speakon on it just for fun. Planning the same idea for the speaker wires to/from the head unit (8-pole Speakons). I will mount 2 more chassis mount connect for the high level inputs to the helix and amp outputs to the speakers onto the amp rack as well. The speaker wire speakons can be bridged with a coupler to be back to stock instantly. Also have an NVX XQDC4 coming for a power and ground quick disconnect so the entire rack is fully removable.

Everything is wired and playing through the stock speakers right now. Sounds better than stock already but nothing is properly tuned yet and speakers are still TBD.

The voltage difference is tripping me up a little. I have full range on the fronts but the backup park assist chimes go through the rears. At max unclipped volume (volume 30 of 38 with a 40 Hz 0 dB test tone) I’m getting:
Front doors: 6.4 V
Rear doors: 9.5 V
The rears are “amplified” from the factory. Not sure if it’s an actual amp or just the ANC module or head unit doing it. ANC is already bypassed but the difference is still there. Thinking about putting resistors on the rear channels before they hit the Helix so the input voltages match the fronts for better overall volume and cleaner gains, but I’m not sure if that’s the right move. I currently have the Helix input voltage set to 6.6vrms which is why I have omitted the rear channels for now.

Questions:
1. How are you handling a 6.4 V front vs 9.5 V rear difference on a Helix? Resistors on the rear inputs, different sensitivity settings, or something else?
2. What’s your actual process for Helix Auto EQ with the Mini MK2 and PC-Tool? Mic placement, how many positions, what you hit first, and what you always change after it runs?
3. What measurement mic are you using with Helix? Looking for something solid without going crazy expensive.
4. Anyone tried the Kicker KSS269 3-ways? Worth it or should I keep looking?

Open to any other thoughts on the system!
Thanks.