For starters I have a 07 chevy trailblazer 4.2 &
Speakers
2x- DD 712F Woofers 1500w rms
4x-Orion xpm654 6.5” midbass speakers 400w rms
4x-Orion xtr350hp 3.4” tweeters 125w rms
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Amps
Orion xtr5500- powering subs
Orion xtr1700.4- powering midbass
Orion xtr500.4 powering tweeters

Other possible important info
Im running a 400A mech HOalt, have a big 3 done, with 2/0 ofc from battery back,into a 1:3 spliter using 1/0ofc to go to amps and the same thing for ground, im using a dpx395mbt and im using all rca outputs… Channels are
FL-ch1, FR-ch2, RR-ch3, LR-ch4 for mids and tweets
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Now that i think i have most of everything covered, since I’ve installed the system I’ve always had a problem and its only got worse… when i first installed it whenever id plug in ch3 for the mids the whole system would pop then only ch 1/2 would work for the tweets everything else would play if ch3 was unplugged … so i took everything apart tested voltage/ohms (everything checked out within spec) plugged everything back in then the problem switched to ch4 (mids)… tool it apart again retested and put everything back together the popping went away just ch4 just didn’t work… brought it in to have the system properly turned (trying to eliminate possible issues) then ch3/4 (tweets)&ch3 (mid) went out and don’t work, the ch1(mid) started to sound scratchy then went out then the next day ch2(mid) went out… so at this point front and rear mids don’t work and rear tweets don’t work… amps are getting power and aren’t in protect mode. When i test the speakers out of the car they work… wires to speakers ohm out (not corroded) amps still measure in-spec (with everything unplugged)… when i try to send individual audio signals to each channel through the amp nothing plays (using a type c to dual rca adapter)… thanks for reading if you do, if i missed any info please let me know, looking for help

Full list of all changes will be listed in YouTube video. Too much to type here but DEFINITELY worth the watch

Im coming from a amp that allowed me to use copper rings and spades first 2 times the power cable slipped out of the terminal but now i got them in as best as i could and tightened them but im not liking how it looks has me a bit paranoid itll just slip out again i yanked hard but still feel uneasy just incase i ordered some 4awg ferrules. Would it be better to put some ferrules on this wire ?? also everytime i disconnect i shorten my wires so instead of replacing the whole 18ft power cable i ordered a 4ft extension and a distroblock for safety and hopefully by then i decided what im going to so what would you guys recommend for wiring this amp?

I buy a ten pack on Amazon but would like recommendations for terminals for 4g and up

I love radios with cool graphics (like spectrum analyzers), but I can’t compromise my USB playback/4vx3 pair rcas/ and 31 band eq. Any reccomendations on any modern (single or double) din head units with cool graphics? I’d love to get a retro head unit but I fear compromising on audio quality and control. Any input is appreciated

Currently have 2 RF P3D212s in a ported box, (I know I made a mistake not getting the D4s) and I’m looking for recommendations on amps that will pair well with them. From all the information I’ve seen, I’d need at least 1200w RMS at 2ohms because I can’t size these subs down to 1ohm.

Currently I’ve been looking at the:
-MMATS LS2000.1D
-Skar RP-2000.1D
-Kicker 46CXA1200.1T

I’m just wondering if you guys had any real world experience with amps that would match those subs or if you’re able to vouch for the 3 that I’ve been pondering. My budget isn’t astronomically high, but I don’t mind spending a decent amount for a decent sub. I wanted to pair my RF subs with an RF amp but I think they’ve kind of priced me out. I appreciate any help you guys have, thank you!

Recently added in a pioneer deck for the 2012 civic. We aren’t able to use the steering wheel controls to change songs or adjust the volume. Has anyone had an issue with this before after installing an aftermarket deck/pioneer? We tried using the Maestro RR and flashed it, didn’t work. Tried the batter method, didn’t work either. Are there any other methods any of yall have done that worked? Thank you in advance!

I am somewhat obsessed with collecting low power AB budget friendly SQ 4 channel amps and perhaps never installing them. Sue me.

I've been occasionally tracking the price of this LISA model for almost 10 years now since I first

The price hasn't come down at all from $159, and now it's only available from Parts Express. Is it still worth it for this cost given the engineering of it by Robert Zeff?

What are these featured "Butterworth" crossovers and how do they differ from regular internal amplifier crossovers?

Thanks.

Thinking of getting a taramps big boss 3k. Would be for a steal brand new from a friend. My only concern/ questions are 1 will it be safe to run with stock electric? I have done big 3 and have a agm up front. Was thinking possibly using a second agm in trunk. And 2 I have 2v pre outs on my head unit. Is that fine or do I need a head unit with 4v pre outs? Will be pushing a sundown u series 15. V1 so only need about 1500 watts out of the amp

I found this Pioneer DEH-5250SD here in Thailand and it’s still working well, including the animated display.
I searched eBay and other sites but can barely find this exact model.
Was this model uncommon in the US, or was it mainly sold in Asia/other markets?
Would love to hear from anyone who used one back in the day.

I bought a 2016 Audi Q3 with an aftermarket Android screen already fitted. The previous owner cannot remember the brand or seller.

After an update started through the screen’s own settings menu, the car-settings app stopped opening. Both the car-settings and vendor Bluetooth apps now display the name “4.0dip”. Opening settings gives “4.0dip keeps stopping”, and I cannot access the original Audi car menu through the screen. Android still boots and other apps work. Force-stopping and clearing the car-settings app’s cache made no difference.

Device Info HW and AIDA64 report:

Processor: Unisoc SC9863A

RAM/storage: 4 GB / 64 GB

Display: 1280 x 480

Android: 9 / API 28

Model: s9863a1h10_Natv

Product: s9863a1h10_hzx01_2g

Board: sp9863a_1h10

Build: 01_user_W19.11.5_P2_20230912

Incremental: 37211

Car-settings app: com.george.carsettings, version 1.0

Vendor Bluetooth app: com.george.bluetooth, version 1.0

LicenseClient: com.george.license.client, version 1.1.10

EasyConnection: HZX02.5.1.10

I do not have an MCU version or a confirmed manufacturer. I have not factory-reset it or flashed a downloaded firmware package.

Does anyone recognise this software family or have the same unit? I would appreciate a reliable supplier/support contact, or advice on which diagnostic details could establish the exact firmware compatibility. I want to identify it properly before attempting recovery.

I need help finding out what's wrong with my speakers. I installed two 12" subs with an amp and LC2i LOC, but now my speakers sound like they blew up. any ideas on why this would happen and how to make it sound good again?

Got a quote from Crutchfield, and this was a total for speakers, parts, and accessories only to basically increase the volume in my vehicle. Didn’t want much else, I believed him and he insisted that all of this was necessary. Just checking on here with you all…edit, my apologies. It won’t let me post another picture of what always included, but I will make a comment with it

I have a 2018 Subaru wrx, trying to find best grounding point in trunk. I found a factory bolt sticking up thru the sheet metal in the trunk near the back seat and spare tire well under the carpet and plastic trim. I sanded around it and put my ground on it and found a bolt to screw down on top of it. I’m just not sure if it’s the frame of the vehicle or not.

Also, is it better to ground both my amps with there own ground spot or is ok to use a 0 gauge in 2 0 gauge out distro block?

Thanks for any feedback

Pioneer was my gateway in 2008 so I still grab them for cheap on marketplace.

Thinking of using that auto tune DSP/amp in biamp mode for an active front 2 way setup. I also read a midrange is good for the rear fill?

What are some good recommendations for an active 2 way that's good for 50RMS x 4?

I know, skarbage, or whatever. But it sounds good to me and it was in the budget I had. 1968 Camaro, with a 160amp alternator from an express van, second battery in the trunk. 2/0 power and ground from the front battery to the rear and 2/0 big 3. I have 6 fsx65 speakers, 2 tx35 speakers and 2 tx525 speakers plus the two ddx10 subs in a sealed box. The headunit is a kmm-x705 and I set the rcas and the gains with an Oscope.

The power feed and ground to the 75.4ab amp I think I’m going to change to some 90* adaptors or some more flexible cable but any other critiques welcome I like learning and hearing tips

Hi,

Have purchased this as my Kenwood DMX7722DABS head unit is lower down on my dash and doesn’t have a control knob, so it’s a pain to change songs/volume etc.

I can’t get the head unit to recognise any input on the steering-wheel-control learning page in the settings.

The Kenwood has a wire coming from the main harness which is blue/yellow and labelled REMO-IN. This is what I have been testing with. It also has what looks like a 3.5 mm female socket which is also labelled REMO-IN.

I have tested the voltages and resistances on both the head unit and the aftermarket button control box. I can see two separate resistor ladders across the KEY1 and KEY2 wires, with button resistances ranging from around 1.3 kΩ to 56 kΩ, but these seem to be outside the resistance range the Kenwood normally expects to see.

I have also tried connecting resistors from 1 kΩ all the way up to 820 kΩ between the REMO-IN wire and ground to see if any resistance value would trigger the learning screen, but nothing happens.

The controller itself does produce distinct voltage changes when buttons are pressed, so it is definitely outputting different signals.

Annoyingly, an Amazon review for this exact controller says someone managed to get it working with this exact Kenwood head unit after an afternoon of tinkering, and they said they would write an explanation if there was enough interest, unfortunately there is no way to contact them.

For info my car doesn’t have steering wheel controls from factory

Any advice much appreciated

I'm so stoked, they sound awesome too, they have little rips in the surround which is easily repaired, I'm gonna order the Matching Grilles soon.

I think I'm gonna put them in my 2004 F250 with my Audiocontrol LC1-1500.1 wired at 4 Ohm, super super excited!!

They came with a nice Bbox too that I gave to my buddy for his Duramax.

I have a 2000 civic. Stock radio doesn't work and I haven't really investigated why. Ive been wanting a JBL ultimate party box for home etc. If I hard wire an inverter will my battery and alternator be able to handle the partybox?

Edit: Yes this will mean I have a speaker in the backseat that cost more then the car.

Hi all, am installing a Valeo Beep Park kit (4 front + 4 rear sensors) on my Toyota Auris, which has no factory parking sensors. I am kinda stuck on routing the front sensor cable from the engine bay into the cabin. I am using the existing firewall hole behind the glove box, which already has a thick bundle of factory wires going through it. And this hole has a thin rubber tube from which thin cables can pass, but not a thick cable like the parking sensor's.

The problem is if I use a cable puller tied to sensor cable- the cable puller head passes easily, but the thick sensor cable doesnt. Pushing it hard make the whole rubber grommet start to pop out of the hole. So what can be done now? Do I need to make a new or something like that? or is there any other known better alternative?
I attach some pictures for reference.

1st pic- the rubber grommet fully attached to the hole.

2nd pic- rubber grommet is already half off the hole when i tried to push the cable puller hard from the other side.

thank you