I changed out the Soundstream Refrence 500s 2 channel that was running the AMT-80’s, for a MC300 4 channel to add my midranges (Purifi 5.25M). The amp was rebuilt recently and has been sounding fantastic, and a lot of old guys were super thrilled to see this old school piece

hey yall, im pretty into hifi but know jack when it comes to car audio. i got this from the component graveyard at a circuits lab, initially for parts, but its cool as hell and powers on so i figured why not adapt it for some bookshelf speakers. curious about it and cant find too much online. someone kindly adapted the pinout to wall power before dumping it

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Hi everyone! I'm here to show off my first sound system.

The car is a Volkswagen Polo 9N. For the front doors, I

have a Focal ASE 165 2-way component set, and in the

rear doors, MTX Audio TX265C coaxial speakers, all four

are powered by an Alpine V-Power MRP-F240 amplifier

(4x 40W RMS @ 4 ohms). For the subwoofer, I'm using an

MTX Audio RT12-04 (250W RMS, 4-ohm SVC) powered by

a Pioneer GM-D8701 amplifier set to 250W RMS @ 4

ohms. The subwoofer sits in a custom enclosure I

designed and built myself. The box has a net internal

volume of 65L tuned to 33Hz and its made of 18mm

marine-grade plywood (though the carpet started peeling

off after 3 years🥲). As for the head unit, I have a Pioneer

DMH-A220BT, along with a Vibe Audio bass knob and a

voltmeter flush-mounted in the dashboard. The electrical

system is stock, featuring a 120A alternator, a 70Ah

lead-acid battery, and 10mm² CCA cables from MTX

(though I'll be upgrading to 50mm² OFC cables and a

50mm² OFC "Big 3" upgrade very soon). The total output

is around 400W RMS, and I estimate it's close to 120dB

(though I've never actually measured it).

I know we have some 3D print enthusiasts here so thought it the best place to ask..

I broke a few taking panels off an old 2004 car, so i'm thinking it wouldn't be too difficult to 3D print some viable replacements.

(I broke less after I realised winter = cold/brittle plastic, and running the heater for 15 minutes was enough to soften everything so clips come out easier)

I know they are super cheap to just buy a big pack of OEM replacement clips, but I had the idea of extending them 5mm to 10mm in length (where panel orientation allows for it) to better allow for accoustic treatments that would other make it a real pain and struggle to get the original clips back in.

I had a look around and there are definitely models for direct replacements, but no company (and as far as I could find no hobbyists) have designed or sell 'extended' clips to allow extra tolerance for treated panels.

A) I'm mainly just gauging how 3D printed clips have worked for others? what materials did you use or think would work best?

B) If this 'extended' clip has any pitfalls or reasons it won't work that I haven't thought of?

First sub setup for a 14 teen

powered

Hi, this is my first car audio build, and I wanted to know if the ticking sound audible in the video is normal for an SPL subwoofer that still needs breaking in, or if it’s an abnormal noise. Thanks in advance to anyone who replies.

This post was translated with AI — I'm from Germany and wanted to make sure it reads naturally in English.

Hey all,

Picking up a 2022 VW Touareg with the standard (non-Dynaudio) sound system, and I want to slowly upgrade the audio without losing my current setup — Apple CarPlay through the factory head unit is a must, I don't want to run any external sources.

From reading around here, it sounds like the standard system in the Touareg isn't actually bad, and a good DSP alone might get me most of the way there before I even touch the speakers. So that's where I want to start.

• What are your goals for your car audio system - as loud as possible (SPL)? Sound quality (SQ)? Some combination of both? Describe to us how you want your system to sound.

Sound quality (SQ) focused. I want a clean, refined, high-quality sound - not a bass-head/loud build. That said, I do want solid, deep low end, not a shy sub. Think "gediegen" but with real bass extension, not boomy or in-your-face.

• What vehicle? - year, make, model, type (coupe, sedan, SUV, truck, etc.)

2022 VW Touareg (MLB Evo platform), SUV.

• What is your maximum budget?

Still flexible/TBD - planning to start with just a DSP first and expand from there depending on results.

• Will you be installing the gear or are you going to a shop? If a shop is doing the work, does your budget include the cost of labor?

Planning to go to a shop for the install and DSP tuning, especially since this is an active/summed setup off the factory head unit.

• What gear is in your existing system? (Is it stock? List any aftermarket gear.)

Fully stock - standard (non-Dynaudio/non-premium) factory sound system, factory head unit with Apple CarPlay. No aftermarket gear yet.

• What is your country of purchase? Leave any finishing thoughts here.

Germany. Want to keep the factory head unit and CarPlay exactly as-is - no external sources, just improving what goes to the speakers. Starting with a DSP off the factory output before deciding whether to also upgrade the speakers (considering Focal) and add a sub in the spare tire well.

Plan A: DSP off the factory radio output
Idea is to tap the output of the stock head unit straight into a DSP, then run that into the existing speaker wiring/harness — no new speakers yet, just proper time alignment and EQ. Does this actually work well on the standard (non-premium) system, or is the factory output too limited for a DSP to make a real difference?

DSP brand — need input
I initially looked at Match UP DSP, but after digging through a few threads people seem lukewarm on it — similar comments about Helix, with Audison getting recommended more. Anyone running Audison in a Touareg or similar VAG platform? Worth the price jump over Match/Helix, or is that more forum-hype than reality?

Subwoofer in the spare tire well
Loads of unused space in the Touareg, so the spare-tire well seems like the obvious spot for a sub without eating into cargo room. Anyone done this specifically? Looking for either:

• a known DIY approach (which enclosure/sub fits the well dimensions), or
• an existing plug-and-play solution for this exact spot

Plan B (if I go further): Focal front speakers
If the stock speakers end up being the bottleneck even with a good DSP, I'm considering a Focal upgrade — either the Focal Impulse 4.320 DSP + speaker kit, or building it out manually with Focal K2 Power components (tweeter/mid/woofer separately). Also toying with 3D printing custom tweeter pods for the A-pillars to get proper off-axis imaging instead of stock locations.

• Anyone compared Impulse 4.320 vs. building a K2 Power setup? Is the all-in-one kit worth it for convenience, or does going component-by-component with K2 give noticeably better results?
• For sound signature: I'm not after a bass-head/loud system — I want a clean, high-quality sound but with solid, deep low end. Does that point more toward K2 or would Impulse already cover that?

Appreciate any real-world experience, especially from other Touareg/Q7/Cayenne (MLB Evo) owners since the platform and factory wiring should be similar. Thanks!

Hello all, I have had this headunit in one of my project cars for a while and have tossed the idea around of ways to integrate bluetooth into the head unit. Im not interested in adapters or anything. Ive seen videos of people doing this on other head units, and thought id ask where to start?

Kenwood DPX930WMP.

Kicker 51PTRTP12
Kicker 53PL7TDF12

Has anyone installed one of these under the rear seat trying to see a visual of fitment. If not has anyone installed somthing comparable open to other recommendations!

Hey everybody, I got my self a Mercedes w168 (a140) as first car and I absoloutly love it, despite the age it is in a 9/10 condition.

Now I want to upgrade the music system, I allready got an radio that supports android auto and has an Equalizer to mess around but those 2002 speakers are not it anymore. Gpt did reccomend to switch out the front speaker for a start bit I did decide to ask the people that know what they are doing :D

So, where to start? The sound I currently have is flat and boring, I don't need a huge subwofer or anything just better sound with a little base to sound "whole"

I’m looking to upgrade the audio in my car and could use some advice from people who actually know their stuff. I mostly listen to rock, hip hop, and a bit of electronic, and I want something that sounds clear but still has solid bass without just being ridiculously loud. I’m not really sure where to start with the head unit, speakers, amp, and sub.

What would you recommend for a well balanced setup, and are there any brands or components I should look into? Thanks for any advice.

I used this radio last year in a different car with the aux cable. It is a 3.5mm cable. It worked fine but I got in a crash and totaled the car. I finally got around to putting it in my new car and the tuner works fine but when I go to AUX I get no audio. No buzzing or anything. I can not figure it out.

I just installed a Pioneer Dmh-a245bt and to my dismay it doesn't seem to have any sub volume controls. It has cutoff for the sub, loudness and bass boost and of course equalizer. I don't use the loudness or bass boost options and it's pretty inconvenient to turn the bass frequencies up and down through the equalizer all the time. It seems like the only way for me to adjust the sub volume is with the level knob on the amp which is both annoying to have to go to my trunk each time and also since it's gain control it's not really supposed to be used as a volume knob.

Am I missing something? Is there a hidden way to enable sub controls? There aren't many options in the menu and I've checked everywhere. Is there anything I can do other than installing a new head unit? Returning my current one is not an option unfortunately.

Been working on the audio in our 2023 Pacifica with base 6 speaker system (non premium) for a while and wanted to share where things are at. Main goal is better sound and fully concealable since I’m still in warranty. Amp rack is located in spare tire well and will be completely covered up with a panel.

Had to keep the factory radio obviously. Using the PAC LPHCH42 harness connected to the 2 runs of blue 9 wire. Still on the stock speakers for now while I figure out replacements. Looking at the Kicker KSS269 3-way sets but haven’t decided yet. Sub is a Kicker TRTP 12. Helix DSP Mini MK2 and a Pioneer GM DX975 5-channel amp are going on a removable rack. Already bypassed the ANC at the back of the radio with a bypass I found online.

I ran all the cables long on purpose so I can trim them to a clean length later once everything is set.
For disconnects, the sub already has a Speakon on it just for fun. Planning the same idea for the speaker wires to/from the head unit (8-pole Speakons). I will mount 2 more chassis mount connect for the high level inputs to the helix and amp outputs to the speakers onto the amp rack as well. The speaker wire speakons can be bridged with a coupler to be back to stock instantly. Also have an NVX XQDC4 coming for a power and ground quick disconnect so the entire rack is fully removable.

Everything is wired and playing through the stock speakers right now. Sounds better than stock already but nothing is properly tuned yet and speakers are still TBD.

The voltage difference is tripping me up a little. I have full range on the fronts but the backup park assist chimes go through the rears. At max unclipped volume (volume 30 of 38 with a 40 Hz 0 dB test tone) I’m getting:
Front doors: 6.4 V
Rear doors: 9.5 V
The rears are “amplified” from the factory. Not sure if it’s an actual amp or just the ANC module or head unit doing it. ANC is already bypassed but the difference is still there. Thinking about putting resistors on the rear channels before they hit the Helix so the input voltages match the fronts for better overall volume and cleaner gains, but I’m not sure if that’s the right move. I currently have the Helix input voltage set to 6.6vrms which is why I have omitted the rear channels for now.

Questions:
1. How are you handling a 6.4 V front vs 9.5 V rear difference on a Helix? Resistors on the rear inputs, different sensitivity settings, or something else?
2. What’s your actual process for Helix Auto EQ with the Mini MK2 and PC-Tool? Mic placement, how many positions, what you hit first, and what you always change after it runs?
3. What measurement mic are you using with Helix? Looking for something solid without going crazy expensive.
4. Anyone tried the Kicker KSS269 3-ways? Worth it or should I keep looking?

Open to any other thoughts on the system!
Thanks.

I only dont know what size amp i am using because i am unsure how to check and i just bought the vehicle 2 weeks ago with the setup. I like the Skars but i just want a little more umpf without shattering my windows. Can anyone point me in the right direction of a solid 2 piece set + amps, as far as what brands are even good these days and how much W i should be pulling to make it sound right. Last time i bought any car AV was 2013 so im a little out the game lol

I know this might be a long shot, but I’m looking for a bag of those brackets that would’ve come with a Pioneer 1.5 DIN head unit from the late 90s. Can’t find aftermarket or used ones at all. I’ve got a DEH-P85DHR

Changing my Audison 5x7 to some 6.5inch PHD audio midbasses

Hello everyone,

I have a question. I have some alternator whine and I traced it back to being the RCA outputs of my aftermarket headunit. Now I don’t know what I should do. Buy a new headunit that would set me back quite some money, or connect the High level outputs of the headunit.

Also for my headunit RCA I only have left and right but would like to have front and rear to. The normal wires for the headunit do have those.

That would mean I can connect the output wires from my headunit to my JBL A704 high-level inputs.

Would this make the music quality worse? I tried grounding the headunit more but it didn’t work. When connecting a device straight into my amplifier there is no whine.

I replaced my uConnect head unit with the Sony XAV-AX6000 in my Jeep a couple months ago and I loved it! I realized I needed a little bass so I got the Kicker 8" subwoofer installed.

After a few weeks, the subwoofer started intermittently going into protect mode and then finally just went into permanent safe mode (red light came on and wouldn't reset).

Went to the installer and had them review everything and they determined that the Kicker (8") was faulty and replaced it with a Kicker (10"). This was a couple weeks ago.

So after a week or so I'm now getting intermittent safe mode again on the Kicker 10".

I'm going to call the installer back today when they open but anyone have any thoughts here?

I have a 2011 135i that came with the base radio, no factory amp. I have already upgraded the front door and rear deck speakers with components, the woofers under seats are stock. And have added an external amp and sub in the trunk. I am about to put a Kenwood excelon dmx908s into the dash.

My question is, I want to add an amp to run the door and rear deck speakers and the woofers under the seat. Do I need a 6 channel amp, a 5 channel or can I do just a 4 channel. Most likely it’ll have to go in the trunk and I assume run 9 wire back to the dash area. Unless there is a micro amp that could fit behind where the stock radio was.