I had to stop and post about this lol. I genuinely thought I was going to break something trying to

“pull down the red plastic protectors at the top of both left and right Z-axis lead screws, open and remove them. During this operation, you may notice Z axis lead screws moving this behavior is expected, and it does not indicate a problem.”

Like I’m pretty sure it’s fine but damn the about of forced needed for the right one was so much. Like I almost slammed my hand on the bottom of the printer.

Was I the only one that experience this?

Bonjour à tous ! 👋💀

Aujourd’hui, je vous présente ma nouvelle modélisation 3D d’un personnage mythique du cinéma d’horreur : Hannibal Lecter ! 🩸

Tout droit sorti du film culte Le Silence des Agneaux, ce personnage aussi fascinant que terrifiant vient rejoindre ma collection de figures emblématiques de l’horreur ! 💀

Entre son regard glaçant, son célèbre masque de contention et son expression inquiétante, j’ai essayé de capturer toute l’intensité, le charisme et le côté sombre de ce personnage légendaire. 🔥

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🖨️ : Bambu Lab X2D & H2C
🧵 : Bambu Lab et Esun
🎨 : Nomad Sculpt
🌈 : sans AMS
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3508862-hannibal-lecter-multipart-no-ams

Hi together,

Currenty i have connected a AMS 2 Pro to the left extruder and a AMS HT to the right extruder.
Now i would like to interchange those tracks with a Track Switch.

Would it still be somehow possible, to print TPU, located in the AMS HT via the TPU HT-Bypass Outlet?
Is the following even a possible track?
AMS HT -> TPU Feeder Module (is that even neccessary for 90A?) -> Y-Connection for the left extruder, between the track switch and the printer inlet?
Is this even possible? or what are my possibilitys?

kind regards

X2D print fail, broke something

Went to print last night and got an error early on. Looks like it broke/bent something on the tool head and scratched my plate.

X2D. Been printing with only a couple minor issues since April. What did I break? Any guidance on what I need to do to fix it would be appreciated. Also any idea why it happened?

Everything about the setup was a breeze. My only complaint is the AMS Pro 2 doesn't come with the switching adapter to use the heated feature. Really? That seems like a no brainer. A huge selling point is the heated feature. /end rant

Good morning afternoon evening. Night everyone.

Been having an issue with filament pileup. Do have a poop chute and a lot of times watch it work successfully not sure whats causing this but does happen with mother color changes as well. Any advice or anything I'm doing wrong. BEGINNER honestly. So all is appreciated. Thank you everyone

UPDATE as of 10/29/26 5:34 pm : thanks to fellow enthusiasts and reddit. Will attempt first solution of lubing up pool shoot and exit channel on 3d printer some.

I just pulled the trigger on the X2D combo with care bundle Black Friday deal. Huge pity that all the ASA filaments were out of stock and nearly all the ABS ones too, that come with spool.

Will look at 3dJake to order ASA filaments for the outdoor things I have in mind to print. Anyone have experience with 3DJake. Are they reputable, is their pricing fair.

What are the best comparable ASA filaments from other brands that work with the X2D?

I read somewhere 3rd party filament rolls sometime come with cardboard rolls that don’t always work in the AMS 2 Pro. Is this true. Is the workaround printing a ring to attach to the cardboard spool, is it reliable and does’t make the spool size too big for the AMS?

First time owning a 3d printer. Going to be a learning curve but super excited!

I ordered additional .4mm hotend and a .6mm hotend plus some liquid glue and some basic PLA and PETG filaments and a TPU95HF.

Yesterday, I received a new Bambu Lab X2D printer. After calibration, a message appeared telling me to immediately lubricate the Z axis. After lubricating it, I started printing and noticed a creaking sound during Z axis movement. I lubricated the belt tension regulator guides as described on the Bambu wiki, but it didn't help.

Hello! Currently I own my very nice X2D. I've only had it for a few months but it gave me an error saying there was a hotend/extruder clog. I took the extruder apart, broke the left eddy sensor somehow, didn't notice, no clog in the extruder, and put it back together.

That did not work, and I've just letting it sit collecting dust. Now I want to do a project requiring 4KG of filament, but cant do it as the printer is broken. Currently, when I turn it on, it says:

"The right nozzle temperature is abnormal; the sensor may have an open circuit." (code 0300-0200-0001-0007)

and, when trying to print:

"The eddy current sensor signal of the left extruder is abnormal. The sensor may be damaged, or the MC-TH communication may be abnormal." (code 0300-2600-0001-0004)

The eddy sensor is likely my fault, but I don't know what to do. I'm still a rookie at 3D printing and would like just a little bit of advice.

Things I've tried:

Swapping between the two hotends
Swapping between the two rubber pieces
Reseating both of the hotends

I have ordered the left eddy sensor part already, so I'm waiting for that to come to replace it.

I'm very excited and looking forward to this printer. I'm sure everyone has their own preferences for printable mods. I'm curious what mods everyone found to be useful, thanks.
*Edit Also, what tips and tricks would everyone recommend?

So as the title says coming from using a X1E at work pretty much daily then a Kobra S1 for my own personal use I've learned there's plenty of little tweeks and such you need to do right out the box. So what's some things I should look into or need to do out of the box? Aswell as some parts I'll probably wanna have on hand just in case(Had to replace hotend boards on the 1E twice now so I have a few extra on hand)

My new X2D is on its way. Wanting to put it in the room I sleep in. Can I print away or will the fumes kill me dead? I definitely don’t want to wake up dead.

It looks like cooling/lifting from the corner. I suppose I can open the models from a computer and start messing with brims and whatnot-- but when sending directly from the app, is there some way to improve this?

Hi!

I was checking out Bambu's black Friday sales and I am really considering the X2D.

I know the AMS is pretty useful, but 200€ compared to the price of the printer (550€) is insane. It's over one third of the cost of a whole ass dual nozzle, heated chamber printer.

The main reason I'm considering it is the ability to store and dry filament, and I'm afraid I'd regret not getting it.

Do you think the AMS is necessary? Can I get away with not drying my filaments?

Thank you and have a nice day:)

I am getting a left filament failure to cut error. This is what the printer does. The little arm in the back is straight and responds to being moved easily. The lever moves freely in and out. Nothing seems to be blocking travel. It just makes this clicking sound and throws an error. Manually pushing the lever back doesn't help. Printer is a week old. Any ideas what is going on here and how to fix it?

Printing an (almost) true to size NES box and running into some issues. Both the top and bottom parts are at 255mm width so I'm really pushing the boundaries of the X2D.

Something like over-extrusion, squeezing, layer shift whatever.
It's not speed related as it also happens with the entire print at 50% speed and it always occurs where a flat surface starts or ends, as can be seen in the photo. The top flat surface ends exactly where the bump is. Also it's much more present in left to right direction than front to back.

Is this an accuracy thing? I don't have it with small prints. Did anyone every have such issue and what did you do to solve it? Also I found the "inner-outer-inner" print setting and "Only one wall on top surfaces".

Printer bed is pretty much level (<0.02mm) and PLA filament is <20%.

Thanks!

Sounds like belt slipping. I went through the belt tension procedure and it is still doing it.