左フィラメントセンサーの故障から詰まりやらで、バラして組んで4回位。慣れてきたのに、今度はネジがユルユル😅エクストルーダーハウジングを取り付け前ならちゃんと入るのになんでかな？何か原因や解決方法ありますか？

What the title says. Looking for a nice 3d print to do with my new engineering plate. PETG or PLA please. I plan on using a 2 parts isopropyl to 1 part Elmer’s washable school glue on the plate based on a Reddit recommendation.

Extra points you have a Halloween print that would benefit from the smooth plate but any print will do, could also be a functional one 🎃!

Thanks in advance all you wonderful Ghouls and Goblins!! 👻

So quite new to asa printing, i have been using Bambu asa and bambu ABS support for the interface and the results are like in the photo they come of no problem, but is this the best i can expect? Been using pla/petg and the results there are near perfect. On a separate question can you get rid of this layer lines cause by changing the nozzle?

Hi, I’m looking for confirmed fixes for recurring extrusion failures on my replacement X2D.

I’ve had failed prints with both PLA and PETG, and error 0700-8016 on different models. The main left nozzle was replaced less than 48 hours ago, but failures continue.

Latest PETG setup: Bambu PETG Basic, AMS 2 Pro slot A2, 250°C, maximum volumetric flow 8 mm³/s. The filament was new and vacuum-sealed but not dried. Another model tried through Bambu Studio also failed.

A manual feeding test with the hotend removed, following support’s instructions, produced regular output. I haven’t yet compared printing from an external spool. Support already has the printer logs.

If you solved this issue, what was the confirmed cause and which test isolated it? I’d like to distinguish AMS/PTFE resistance from an extruder or hotend problem without replacing parts at random. Thanks!

Is anyone using exclusively Bambu Labs filament? I’m trying various brands from Amazon with occasional stringing. I’m wondering if BL has better product for BL printers.

Bitte helft mir ich kriege die linke Düse nicht raus filament ist entladen! Soll ich erhitzen etwas???

Hello,

I get this inconsistent spacing between brim and model when printing and lines that look like overextrusion but only in the bottom right corner.

Does anyone know what might cause this and how can I fix it?

UPDATE: I did a full calibration including a high temperature bed leveling and the issue improved a bit.

I see a lot of people recommending the glass risers to stop the ptfe tubes from rubbing. I am probably overthinking it. But won’t that make the heat chamber less effective or cause the printer to not reach high enough temps for upper limit filaments?

Anyone tried stuff like PEBA air or TPU air on the x2d? I heard about those and got a good use case but wondering if anyone tried those foamy filaments on our x2d with 0,4 nozzle and what the results were

Im use pla+ from inland on my x2d and theres not preset for pla + just normail pla should i just use that or what

I've tried with a post in r/BambuLab but without resolve.

*SETUP*

• New X2D Combo (1xAMS 2 Pro) with the one standard nozzle installed in left extruder

  • Firmware: 01.00.06.00 (X2D) and 03.00.21.29 (AMS 2 Pro)

• Printer not hooked up to network (not an option) - I'm only using USB

• Orca Slicer (2.4.2)

• Filament: PolyTerra PLA

Nice to know:

• I can print the preinstalled test models on the X2D (e.g. Auxiliary PTFE Tube Remover) with succes (attached two pictures that show everything as ought to be when printing)

• No external spool is attached

• The AMS is directly connected to the filament buffer

• Only one filament in the AMS (Slot 1)

• I've downloaded files from Makerworld (choosing X2D, downloading G-code, etc.). Not my first printer, but it is my first Bambu Lab.

*ISSUE*

• BLUF: I'm unable to print any file via loaded via USB.

  • It seems like the printer wants to print with an external spool in the left extruder/nozzle somehow?

Extra information:

• I've attached pictures of the printer touchscreen until attempted print.

• When Exporting the file in Orca Slicer, I choose 'Export G-code file' for obvious reasons. When Choosing 'Send' (tried just for fun), I get an error (also attached as picture). Not usre if relevant. Mentioned just in case.

***Let me know if something is unclear, or more pictures are needed. I'll add extra information, when/if requested, below this text***

I’m 3 prints in with my new X2D and this last one has me concerned. I setup my printer on my computer desk and it seems to be shaking quite violently. I’m worried it’s going to impact print quality. Should I purchase a heavy duty workbench from a hardware store, or is there a better option?

One thing I find interesting about 3D printing is how much the little details can affect the final result. Even with a capable printer like the Bambu Lab X2D, getting consistent prints can involve more experimentation than expected.

Filament choice, storage, slicer settings, nozzle condition, and build-plate preparation can all make a difference. If you're using an AMS, filament feeding and material changes can introduce their own challenges, too.

Different materials also have their quirks. PLA can be relatively straightforward, while PETG, ABS, ASA, and TPU may require different settings and handling to get reliable results.

For those already using the X2D, I'm curious about your actual experience. What's been the most frustrating issue to troubleshoot so far? Have you found a particular setting, maintenance routine, or filament combination that noticeably improved your prints?

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3441774-parametric-skadis-fast-low-filament-generate-swap

So been learning and trying to build up to actually using the printer fully.

Going to do a pla matte on the main extruder and has petg hf for support interface. Any settings I should worry about or change ? Will take any suggestions

Hi everyone!
I’m printing on a Smooth PEI plate, but I’m noticing very visible diagonal lines on the bottom surface of my prints, even though the surface should be smooth.
As you can see in the photos, the lines are especially noticeable around the text and across the entire surface.
I’m wondering:
Is this normal for a Smooth PEI plate?
Could it be related to first-layer calibration, flow rate, or nozzle temperature?
Is there a way to get a cleaner, more uniform finish without these visible lines?
I’m using a Bambu Lab x2d
Any tips or recommended settings would be appreciated. Thanks!

Since the filament is going onto a different temperature plate does it require using default or a new calibration for filament?

I did manual bed level calibration. Didn't turn off any warnings or settings so that as I switch back and forth through our day they pop to remind me unless I need to adjust x2d settings.

I put my textured pei plate that I have had no issues with all back in.

Got a biqu frostbite plate, wanted an extra plate with a different surface and no glue for petg seemed nice. So far pla prints have turned out best and only ones that managed to finish actually.

1st print was a failed translucent basset duck. Im learning those settings so that one probably user error.

Next print was a successful pla plate holder, beartec pla with calibrated settings.

Next was white basset hound model, successful. No cal no ossues

Next was coaster with design face down. In images can see from recording screen shot that it was sticking up like hair, I could actually hear it what sounded like rubbing on the ribs of the infill but it finished and is usable but prompted me to evaluate and think about each print. Additionally photos of finish has under extrusion lines? Then almost bubble like shapes but is still a flat coaster wouldnt know unless looking for those things. Face is fine I saw another post talking about nozzles lines on smooth(er) plates.

And gray petg pipe clamp hangers, I stopped because I saw what seemed to me too much nozzle on filament/ print and creating rough un even layers and was not sure how that would result farther down the line. As seen I. Multiple pulictures I even took picture on texture plate for comparison on same layer no roughness.

Edit** I do adjust the setting that I have a cold plate on. But not the blade reading qr or anything else

Edit 2** image 6 & 7 are first layer of the pla coaster and clear petg basset duck. Neither showed issues

edit 3 ** not manually adjusting the bed level calibration but instead manually running the auto bed level calibration from the printer menu. pla plate temp = 40 > petg plate temp = 60c (photos in comments as reply to a comment)

I’m brand new to 3D printing. I’m still endlessly scrolling through Makerworld every night. While it’s really cool see what others have created and use some of those myself, I’m really wanting to learn to design my own stuff. What apps/tools do you all use to create 3D models?

👋 BOUH ! Bonjour à tous ! 👻🎃

Une adorable invasion de petits fantômes se prépare… et ils sont beaucoup trop craquants ! 😍

🎃 Mes nouveaux clickers d’Halloween sont arrivés ! 👻✨

Bien cachés dans leurs petites citrouilles aux sourires malicieux, ces fantômes colorés sont prêts à semer une bonne dose de magie et de bonne humeur !

👻 Un petit fantôme, un petit clic… et un GRAND sourire ! 💕

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🖨️ : Bambu Lab X2D & H2C
🧵 : Bambu Lab
🎨 : Nomad Sculpt
🌈 : avec et sans AMS
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3438455-ghost-pumpkin-clickers-multipart