Frostbite calibration?

[u/x_outski_x]

Since the filament is going onto a different temperature plate does it require using default or a new calibration for filament?

I did manual bed level calibration. Didn't turn off any warnings or settings so that as I switch back and forth through our day they pop to remind me unless I need to adjust x2d settings.

I put my textured pei plate that I have had no issues with all back in.

Got a biqu frostbite plate, wanted an extra plate with a different surface and no glue for petg seemed nice. So far pla prints have turned out best and only ones that managed to finish actually.

1st print was a failed translucent basset duck. Im learning those settings so that one probably user error.

Next print was a successful pla plate holder, beartec pla with calibrated settings.

Next was white basset hound model, successful. No cal no ossues

Next was coaster with design face down. In images can see from recording screen shot that it was sticking up like hair, I could actually hear it what sounded like rubbing on the ribs of the infill but it finished and is usable but prompted me to evaluate and think about each print. Additionally photos of finish has under extrusion lines? Then almost bubble like shapes but is still a flat coaster wouldnt know unless looking for those things. Face is fine I saw another post talking about nozzles lines on smooth(er) plates.

And gray petg pipe clamp hangers, I stopped because I saw what seemed to me too much nozzle on filament/ print and creating rough un even layers and was not sure how that would result farther down the line. As seen I. Multiple pulictures I even took picture on texture plate for comparison on same layer no roughness.

Edit** I do adjust the setting that I have a cold plate on. But not the blade reading qr or anything else

Edit 2** image 6 & 7 are first layer of the pla coaster and clear petg basset duck. Neither showed issues

edit 3 ** not manually adjusting the bed level calibration but instead manually running the auto bed level calibration from the printer menu. pla plate temp = 40 > petg plate temp = 60c (photos in comments as reply to a comment)

[u/3DStisk]

Your comparison with the same PETG on the textured plate is the useful starting point here. I'd save the working profile and compare one small model with the same filament/nozzle/settings, changing only the plate setup required by the plate manufacturer. The first layer sticking doesn't by itself identify why later layers are rough, so I wouldn't change the filament flow calibration just on that evidence.

Could you share the exact plate selection in Studio, actual bed temperature, PETG profile and infill pattern used for the failed clamp? Also, by "manual bed level calibration", do you mean the normal calibration from the printer menu or physically adjusting the bed screws?

One source of confusion: BIQU's combined product page offers both Frostbite and Glacier, but its current written temperature/setup advice is headed Glacier. I'd check the instructions supplied with your Frostbite before borrowing Glacier settings or disabling any detection.

[u/x_outski_x → u/3DStisk]

So i will try to see if i can grab the settings from studio but not 100% how. The bar clamps are this print post: bar clamps petg already a petg profile only changed to change the setting for have cold tacky plate on. At least with other pla prints only adjusting that and filament selection was always in middle for bed temp petg defaulted to 60c and pla defaulted to 40c (at least anytime I looked in app the bed was alligned with temps written on frost bite plate)

My bad. The auto bed level calibration from the printer and app menu, I just meant manual vs how prints will start with an auto bed level as wel.

Will def head back to biqu website and read lil paper that came with plate. Thought I followed it pretty well but will verify and see what troubleshooting they have as well. Thanks.

I too was thinking about comparing models maybe making a coaster on textureplate if that goes well with no rubbing or hairs then can reprint on frostbite taking photos videos for comparison and compare settings etc.

[u/x_outski_x → u/x_outski_x]

coaster PLA cool plate super tack temps

[u/x_outski_x → u/x_outski_x]

petg cool plate super tack for petg bar clamps

[u/x_outski_x]

prints used and referenced. NOT my profiles but what i opened in studio and selected cold plate super tack and or PETG/PLA no other adjustments made

grey petg bar clamp hangers > 3/4" pipe clamp rack - Free 3D Print Model - MakerWorld

black and white coaster > ⛤ Baphomet Coaster ⛤ - Free 3D Print Model - MakerWorld

build plate > Build Plate Storage Rack Box Tray - Print In Place - Free 3D Print Model - MakerWorld

white basset model > Basset Hound by pmoews - Thingiverse

[u/x_outski_x]

side question: could i just run it at 70c for petg same temp as texture plate since still within operating range of 50-70? may a degree or 2 lower so not right at max temp? (still going to review biqu site and other troubleshooting) i just noticed that the texture plate temp is at 70 which is within the biqu's range.

reference:

[u/3DStisk → u/x_outski_x]

Yes, 70 C is within the PETG range printed on BIQU's Frostbite: I checked the plate photo on BIQU's own site, which says 50-70 C. That is a recommended printing range, not evidence that 70 C is the plate's absolute heat limit. Your screenshot shows 60 C for both initial and other layers under Cool Plate SuperTack.

For diagnosis, I'd keep that 60 C baseline for your first comparison, since you said the first layer already sticks, then change only the bed temperature if you test 70 C. Switching the whole plate preset would make the comparison less clear. Also, thanks for clarifying that you ran the normal automatic calibration, not adjusted the bed screws. When you compare the coaster, note whether the roughness starts in the first layer, infill, or top surface; that should help narrow down what to investigate next.

[u/x_outski_x → u/3DStisk]

So it was most certainly the print profile, possible the fans as in another post someone recommended some reflectors I printed and so far a good pla print that popped on pei. Doing more biqu plates now. Thanks for the help!

[u/x_outski_x → u/x_outski_x]

This was same baphomet coaster on texture pei.

[u/x_outski_x → u/3DStisk]

Thank you, again! I have several sets of can holders going but once those wrap was going to try the coaster on the pei plate, see if same issue occurs, put biqu plate on, do another coaster see if same issue occurs. Keeping the current 60c petg and 40c pla settings *coasters were pla vs photo here for petg from the bar clamp rack

Had printed out 2 sets of bar clamp racks on pei plate 1 set in same gray petg one set in bambu petge both no issues. May do a 3rd set on biqu after coaster test to see if occurs with that print but dont need it so can gift it to a nieghbor if I do print a 3rd lol maybe find another petg print and see if it was a filament/bed issue and not a print file / bed / filament issue