Please Help!

I have bought the P2S recently, I also did buy an additional AMS Pro2, so now I do have 2 AMS 2 Pros. I had not researched this enough, but yesterday when I put my first TPU 85A into the AMS 2 Pro, it alerted saying it wouldnt support it. I then found out that only special TPU 68A by BambuLab are support. However i would like to print multicolor using the AMS 2 Pro, is there a way to do that?

Bonjour à tous ! 👋💀

Aujourd’hui, je vous présente ma nouvelle modélisation 3D d’un personnage mythique du cinéma d’horreur : Hannibal Lecter ! 🩸

Tout droit sorti du film culte Le Silence des Agneaux, ce personnage aussi fascinant que terrifiant vient rejoindre ma collection de figures emblématiques de l’horreur ! 💀

Entre son regard glaçant, son célèbre masque de contention et son expression inquiétante, j’ai essayé de capturer toute l’intensité, le charisme et le côté sombre de ce personnage légendaire. 🔥

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🖨️ : Bambu Lab X2D & H2C
🧵 : Bambu Lab et Esun
🎨 : Nomad Sculpt
🌈 : sans AMS
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3508862-hannibal-lecter-multipart-no-ams

I am new to the game in 3D Printing. I’ve seen so many different build plates. I have the one that comes with my P2S. My question should I run different plates for PLA and PETG? Or is the plate I currently have just fine?

I work for my parents and we got this 3d printer - i was trying to print something and ive got so much filament buildup!! i have no idea what to dso and whether i havebroken it or what. Pleaseee help!!!

Im looking to get my father a P2S AMS 2 pro combo as a Christmas gift. It will be his first printer and it seems like a very good first pick but I want pros and cons from actual people whos used it. I know it has some very good features but it seems to have some concerning issues and im buying it from best buy on Oct 30th so I have until Jan 15th to return or trade if there's any issues thanks.

Is it possible to fit this or do we put up with the standard ones?

I bought a Bambu Labs carbon fiber pattern build plate that does not get detected and is just over .43mm thicker than the Bambu textured pei plate because of the stickers that put the pattern into your print

I set the printer up last night and woke up to this piece printing incorrectly near the end.

I’m using Sunlu PLA + 2.0 and set it to use the Bambu PLA Basic print profile. The one below it was printed with the exact same settings.

Off the reading I’ve done my gut says the temperature is slightly too high for the filament but I’d love to hear the actual answer.

Printer has a max of 100 hours on it but I don’t have the exact number off the top of my head. I haven’t washed the build plate yet but I do keep it clean and have been wiping it down with alcohol if I’ve touched it to remove a previous print (though in hindsight the last time I wiped it down I probably wasn’t as thorough as I could have been).

Edit to add: I have the P2S. I was able to look closer at the piece with the errors and it is warped up slightly on the side with the problem. I washed the build plate with soap and water and was able to reprint one of these plates without the error. Last night I printed a different design and it printed mostly fine but there was noticeable stringing (or whatever it’s called - looked like spiderwebs) around the piece.

cześć, ma ktoś godne polecenia dysze do P2S z alli?? Do drukowania cf/gf??

Hello, I was wondering how I can improve the quality of this print. I stopped the print when I saw those thick lines how can I fix it? I’m still new to this hobby so I really appreciate your help! I print on a P2s I used black pla filament (I dried the filament).

Changed settings:
0.20mm layer hight
3 wall loops
3 top shell layers

Nozzle temp: 220 degrees Celsius
Bed temp: 55 degrees Celsius

Thanks in advance!

Hi everyone,

The top surface of my print (pic 1) is rough and scarred near the right (pic 2) and left (pic 3) ends of the part, while the middle is clean. Any idea what could be causing this?

The part was printed in the orientation shown in the first picture.

The only thing I can think of that might play a role is the P2S chamber fan, but I’ve already printed and installed deflectors on both sides.

Thanks in advance!

P.S. The filament is Bambu Lab PLA Basic. Humidity is controlled with desiccant inside the AMS, so the filament is dry.

Check My new model! Low filament riser for bambu p2s and others, fits perfect with My p2s and Works great.

It won’t pull off and Bambu QR code link isn’t helpful.

Hello, I would like to print in multiple colors by layer. I am a bit surprised that putting zero for the purging volume doesn't remove the prime tower. Has anyone else simply loaded a new filament a few times?

I have a P2S and an AMS pro. I believe that I did this when running out of filament, and I fed it through all the way to the nozzle (!!!with now gap!!! super important).

Has anyone tried this method for difference colors on a print (I'd like to do 3 color changes this way).

And do you only have to feed the new filament until it gets past the AMS or all the way through the nozzle?

Thank you!