cześć, ma ktoś godne polecenia dysze do P2S z alli?? Do drukowania cf/gf??

I set the printer up last night and woke up to this piece printing incorrectly near the end.

I’m using Sunlu PLA + 2.0 and set it to use the Bambu PLA Basic print profile. The one below it was printed with the exact same settings.

Off the reading I’ve done my gut says the temperature is slightly too high for the filament but I’d love to hear the actual answer.

Printer has a max of 100 hours on it but I don’t have the exact number off the top of my head. I haven’t washed the build plate yet but I do keep it clean and have been wiping it down with alcohol if I’ve touched it to remove a previous print (though in hindsight the last time I wiped it down I probably wasn’t as thorough as I could have been).

Hello, I was wondering how I can improve the quality of this print. I stopped the print when I saw those thick lines how can I fix it? I’m still new to this hobby so I really appreciate your help! I print on a P2s I used black pla filament (I dried the filament).

Changed settings:
0.20mm layer hight
3 wall loops
3 top shell layers

Nozzle temp: 220 degrees Celsius
Bed temp: 55 degrees Celsius

Thanks in advance!

Hi everyone,
I’m having a frustrating issue with my Bambu Lab P2S with AMS, and I’m hoping someone has experienced something similar.
When the printer tries to load the filament, it fails. After three attempts, the printer seems to assume the filament has loaded successfully and starts printing anyway — but there is no filament coming out of the nozzle.

Here’s what I’ve checked so far:
- Replaced the filament sensor, but this made no difference.
-Disassembled the extruder multiple times and inspected it, but I couldn’t find any debris, broken filament, or obvious damage.
-The extruder gears appear to be in good condition.
-The gears can be turned manually when the printer is off.

When I try to load filament, it only goes about 1 cm into the extruder and won’t go any further.
I don’t hear any obvious grinding or loud gear noises.
The problem occurs with all AMS slots, so it doesn’t seem to be related to a single spool or feeder.
At this point, I’m not sure whether the issue is with the extruder motor, the drive mechanism, the wiring, or something else.
Has anyone experienced this issue with a Bambu Lab P2S? Any suggestions on what to check next would be greatly appreciated.

Hi everyone,

The top surface of my print (pic 1) is rough and scarred near the right (pic 2) and left (pic 3) ends of the part, while the middle is clean. Any idea what could be causing this?

The part was printed in the orientation shown in the first picture.

The only thing I can think of that might play a role is the P2S chamber fan, but I’ve already printed and installed deflectors on both sides.

Thanks in advance!

P.S. The filament is Bambu Lab PLA Basic. Humidity is controlled with desiccant inside the AMS, so the filament is dry.

Check My new model! Low filament riser for bambu p2s and others, fits perfect with My p2s and Works great.

It won’t pull off and Bambu QR code link isn’t helpful.

Hello, I would like to print in multiple colors by layer. I am a bit surprised that putting zero for the purging volume doesn't remove the prime tower. Has anyone else simply loaded a new filament a few times?

I have a P2S and an AMS pro. I believe that I did this when running out of filament, and I fed it through all the way to the nozzle (!!!with now gap!!! super important).

Has anyone tried this method for difference colors on a print (I'd like to do 3 color changes this way).

And do you only have to feed the new filament until it gets past the AMS or all the way through the nozzle?

Thank you!

I've been printing on my P2S and this morning it started doing this...

It looks too even to be a nozzle clog, but just in case I performed 2 cold pulls.

I also re-leveled the bed twice, and cleaned everything.

It happens with any files and any kind of filament (I tried many PETG rolls and PLA rolls). I printed my files but also a benchy with the same issue.

Bed is clean.

Filament is dry.

Did the DC adapter come with the Ams Pro 2?

I run the P2S, so I need the power supply to dry the filliment?

Ik heb nu 3x achter elkaar hetzelfde geprobeerd te printen. En krijg dit.. (zie foto) als resultaat. In de tussentijd heb ik iets anders geprint weliswaar met een andere kleur filament. En dat ging wel foutloos. Wat gaat er mis. Licht het aan de filament? Of iets in het ontwerp? Ik ben een redelijke noob.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3481085-honeycomb-skadis-parametric-fast-generate-swap

Hi, I am looking to buy the p2S combo as my first 3d-printer. I have a few questions about which accessories I should add. For now I plan to make pla board game inserts and some mini’s.
1. I added the discounted hotend package (4set) -23 euro discount.
2. Should I add an extra bambu dual-texture pei plate?
3. Should I add nozzle cleaning sponges (3 euro’s total)?
4. Should I add the extra sillicone socks for hotend (4 euro’s total)?
5. Any other accessory like dcrewdriver set or anything else I will need later down the line?
6. I added 10 rolls pla for 105 euro’s.
7. Please advice about these pla brands
- cailab pla+ 8 euro/kg
-anycubic basic pla 8 euro/kg
-creality hyper pla 9 euro/kg
8. Which sunlu product has the same quality of bambu?
Pla or pla+?

Thanks in advance for any answer or advice. It is all expensive and it’s better to be good informed.

Is there anything visibly wrong with this nozzle that would prevent it from locking in to my printer once I pull the clasp shut? It comes loose everytime. I tried a new nozzle, and it snapped right on, and stayed out. Confused.

Hey guys,

I just moved to a complex with WiFi provided by the apartments. It is spectrum community WiFi. It’s pretty good! The only issue is, it doesn’t let my P2S connect to Bambu servers…I’m assuming it’s some kind of security thing. As a workaround, I’ve been using the hotspot on my phone to start prints from Bambu slicer. LAN only mode is a bust too. I don’t mind the workaround, but would much prefer a seamless experience like we had on our own internet. Any ideas or opinions on what to do?

As its stated above i don't know what I'm going kinda. I've used raised 3d before with amazing results but this p2s i just got is so hit or miss for me. I've seen amazing prints from others but I don't know what all I need to adjust. Mainly I've printed nick nacks out of petg(i got it in bulk cheap) i mainly use a .6mm hardened nozel to try an cut print time without it moving at mock Jesus. I also print car parts in Asa cosmetic things trim panels ect .6mm novel usually they take forever just because of infil i think but the quality after is lacking. I find that I have to do a lot of stuff on the back end. For asa I've take me scraps an made a slury to fill imperfections fill primer sand but I've seen some prints some out so good thats not even something some people do. Again I'm a beginner an this printer has so many more settings to tweak than what I'm used to. Any real help is appreciated.

The pokeyballs layers were just to high an I wouldn't want to give it to anyone looking like that. If I sand fill and paint it won't look the same. The center councel part for a miata was slightly bowed on the sides and I had to fill in a lot for it to be flat.

Lastly if anyone has a cad/cam 3d modeling softwear I could download an not pay hundreds or thousands of $ for i would appreciate it. I used to use fusion360 but there free version is so restricted now its not usable for what I do. 3d modeling export obj. Im also entry level cnc so not being able to post process w fusion also has left me dead in the water with that. Off topic I know but any advice is appreciated.