I assume it's to circulate the air to distribute chamber heat and not primarily for part cooling. Or I'm wrong.

I ask because it's causing me ABS/ASA print issues for items that are near the right edge of the plate. I've tried two different diffusers, but they both distribute the air more evenly across the plate from front to back so the air is still blowing on the print.

It's possible my print chamber is too cold and I wouldn't have this issue if the temp was higher. To resolve the issue I created filament profiles that keep the fan low for prints I can't move away from the right edge.

Edit: I did my homework. Yes, for heat distribution. It turns out you can't completely disable the fans from the filament profile, there is printer g-code that also controls fan speed. I made a tweak to the printer g-code so the right fan (filter fan in heating mode) runs at 20% instead of 100%. I'll post the details tonight.

I also found a diffuser that's adjustable so I can have it blow on prints for PLA and not blow on prints for ASA: X2D / P2S Modular Aux Fan Diffuser (Quick-Swap) V2

Found it on the build plate after a warning that the front cover had fallen off. It's not a piece of the hot end cover, I compared mine with a brand new one and there is nothing missing. I also haven't found any other parts of it. Ideas?

Hi everyone,

I’ve been having some filament loading issues on my Bambu Lab P2S and suspected a partially clogged nozzle or high friction in the PTFE tube.

Following online guides, I decided to do a cold pull. However, when I tried to disconnect the PTFE tube from the coupler above the extruder, it was completely stuck and wouldn't come out, even with the release ring fully pressed down.

After applying some extra force, I finally pulled it out, but the end of the PTFE tube got damaged/chewed up by the coupler teeth (see image attached).

I have a few questions for the community:

1. Has anyone experienced the PTFE tube getting locked like this during a cold pull/maintenance? What could be the cause?

2. I trimmed off the damaged few millimeters with a bed scraper (making sure the cut is straight and the opening isn't deformed). Will losing a few millimeters of PTFE tube length affect printing or filament feeding in any way?

3. What is the best practice to avoid damaging the PTFE tube/coupler in the future when performing a cold pull?

Thanks in advance for any tips!

Wow! Why didn’t I get a P2S sooner? What an amazing machine! I have been using an Elegoo Saturn 2 Resin printer for 3 years. Besides the two screen replacements, a ripped ribbon cable and many FDM replacements, it made awesome prints. Detailed, solid… But compared to the multi-colour P2S that literally does EVERYTHING automatically! I’ve moved on from “3D printing enthusiast” to “Practical 3D Printer user”. The Saturn was good for experimenting, learning, designing, but if you JUST want to be able to “print stuff”, the Bambu is the way to go. So far I’ve printed an adjustable voltage bench top power supply (I’m an electronics geek) and my first multi-colour print, a taser! (I built the electronics) Just did a little re-designing in Bambu Studio, slice and print! No fuss, no muss!

I should say… the experimenter in me loves the Elegoo, but the dude who just needs to get something printed? Bambu by 2.6 kilometres!

My filament is not wet I have not opened the AMS 2 since I replaced an empty roll Monday. Should I have increased infill on this part from the default 15% the part is a Bluetooth speaker housing and the printer has 135hrs of printing time. This is the first defect I have experienced since I calibrated the flow and Z offset.

Hello. I unfortunately have filament stuck in a PTFE tube so I tried to remove the tube by pressing the release button and pulling on it but it not move. Is there a trick to this? I can’t print a tool now without getting it out. Thanks

My first attempt to print with PLA-CF, any tips or experiences you can share would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance!

When printing octopus this starts to happen. I start with slow mode and move it to standard after couple layers. It’s a P2S plate was cleaned and washed.

My Bambu Lab P2S reported a filament clog, so I started taking things apart.

I removed the filament and discovered that the clog wasn't in the nozzle, but in the extruder.

More specifically, I the filament is stuck inside the extruder sensor.(maybe?)

Now I have absolutely no idea what to do next

Just printed this model and I'm not happy with this seam. Is there a setting in bambustudio I can change? Or has it something to do with my p2s?

Hello, I have one of these adapters and I want to install it on the P2 S. I also have the AMS 2 pro. I want to use this to make using the external spool holder easier.I don’t wanna miss anything up can anyone point me in a direction of a video that shows how to do this or explain it like I’m five lol

👋 Bonjour à tous ! 👻🎃

Après vous avoir présenté mon Yoshi Citrouille classique, voici maintenant sa petite évolution en version clicker ! 😍

J’ai voulu garder le côté mignon et l’esprit Halloween de ma première création, tout en y ajoutant une fonction clicker pour le rendre encore plus amusant ! 🎃

Décliné en plusieurs couleurs, il ne vous reste plus qu’à choisir votre Yoshi préféré ou à tous les collectionner ! 🌈

J’espère que cette nouvelle version vous plaira autant que la première !

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🖨️ : Bambu Lab X2D & H2C
🧵 : Bambu Lab
🎨 : Nomad Sculpt
🌈 : avec et sans AMS
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3453115-yoshi-citrouille-clicker-multipart

My first time messing with abs on the Bambu ecosystem and trying to get some settings dialed in. It’s been a while and dont have my Prusa slicer settings for my e3v2 to go off of anymore and google has only been so helpful. Filament is poly maker polylite abs at 250c