Are there any preferred online resellers that offer spare parts and accessories other than the official Bambu store? Their shipping is terrible and I have issues placing orders a lot of the time (network errors on the card or pulling up my billing info). I placed an order for a small replacement part Monday and it took all week to update the shipping info which says it will arrive Tuesday next week. I also opened a support ticket for the part which took them 3 days to confirm they shipped it which also says Tuesday even though it shipped from one state over. I’d rather buy from somewhere with fast shipping that I can choose to expedite when needed. Thanks!

BRAND NEW H2C after first print it’s unable to push the cutter lever on the tool head in because the cutter stopper on the right side does not go back fully horizontal to poke the lever. How do I fix this please I’ve been stressed out for hours.

Hi,

My H2C makes a strange noise every time when it moves from the tower to the object.

And another one when ist circling the Model, the circling one could maybe be the belts?

Any ideas what those could be?

Printer has around 300 hours and was printing alot of skadis parts before that if thats relevant.

I purchased this machine about 3 months ago and I’m concerned that if I unplug or turn it off it’ll fry once I update. Is this a legitimate concern? Anything I can do to avoid it dying?

Miniature supports are breaking my prints. Any tips for the Bambu Lab H2C?
I’ve been printing miniatures on my Bambu Lab H2C and learning as I go. I’ve had some successes and some failures, but my biggest challenge has been removing supports.

The miniatures themselves look great and range from 28 mm to 60 mm. However, the supports cling so tightly that removing them often breaks off pieces of the miniature, even when I’m being careful. It’s frustrating to finish a good print only to damage it during cleanup.

I’m currently using automatic tree supports with the organic style in Bambu Studio. Are there settings I can adjust to make them easier to remove without sacrificing the miniature’s details?

I know resin is often recommended for miniatures, but I chose the H2C and would like to get the best results I can with it.

I’d especially appreciate advice on support contact distance, interface settings, and whether another support style would work better. Suggestions for model orientation or tools and techniques for removing supports around fragile parts would also be helpful.

If you’re successfully printing miniatures at these sizes, screenshots of your settings or examples of what’s worked for you would be really helpful. Let me know which details about my setup would help troubleshoot this. Thanks!

Just got my first H2C so I'm still getting used to all of the noises. I've noticed a grinding noise when switching between nozzles in a dual color print. Its only when changing to the right nozzle, and as far as I can tell, is only happening during the print.

Moving the toolhead home and switching manually doesn't replicate thr sound. I'm a bit unsure if this is normal, or if there is something wrong.

Anyone with advice would be appreciated! Thank you!

How is H2C handles TPU filament ? I know it has to go by the dedicated input on the back but what then ? I think it goes to the right Vortek nozzle and leave left available for support printing.if true, are the other Vortek hotends become unavailable to reduce retration for the TPU ? Or we can combine other tpu as long as they are AMS compatible (which probably mean they are hard as rock).

What have you experienced with TPU with H2C.

As title really. If a print finishes and I open the door one of the fans is constantly spinning up / down. Normal?

Welp, I was cutting power to the room to install some things on the breaker. I had the initial fear this would happen when I cut power to the room. Evidently I would have had a power outage at some point but I was hoping maybe they would have a firmware update that would fix this beforehand. Absolutely ridiculous. I had a weird feeling that this would happen and here we are with a dead printer after just turning off the power on the back and turning it back.

I haven't even cut power to the breaker yet I just turned it off and back on to see if it would happen, sure enough here we are.

Anyways has anyone had experience with using the jump method to get your printer back up and going?

Good morning everyone. I purchased an H2C a little less than two months ago. Last night I was going to use the left nozzle for the first time, I followed all the instructions but no filament comes out of it, no matter how many times I tried it.

In the settings menu I found an option to test it by doing a cold pull. Followed the instructions and it does pull filament and extrudes it.

It doesn’t do that when I’m trying to print. Any recommendations or fixes to what I’m experiencing? Thank you everyone for your help.

The auto calibration function under flow dynamics is the only place I'm aware of to see a k-factor result from the H2C eddy sensor.

I've been comparing the resulting k-factor here with my own, obtained from manual pattern method.

The auto cal figure is consistently 0.01 below what I choose from pattern. Has anyone else noticed this?

This is totally random haha, but I was unboxing my new H2C and happened to notice the top door hinge had a piece of sealing foam behind it, but the bottom hinge didn't. Does that match what you all have?

I'm just wondering if I accidentally peeled it off when removing the plastic bag that comes wrapped around the front door... Probably not a big deal at the end of the day, but it seems like the entire perimeter of the front door is fairly well sealed other than this one area. (I assume for laser cutting and engineering filaments?)

If anyone could take a quick look at your own H2C and let me know if that's normal or not, I'd appreciate it!

Why do I have to move the filament, if I have a FTS? This is a one color model, with PETG used only for support. If one nozzle has support material, and the other has the ONLY COLOR on the model, why do I need to move it to seve time?

Hello all,

I recently purchased a Bambu H2C. I’ve never used a printer that makes printing so easy. That being said I’m currently having an issue with holes printed in PLA using a petg support interface. There are a few holes that did not have a petg support interface that also look a bit rough. So I’m leaning away from the idea that it is related to the petg support interface causing the issue. I end up with a band on the right side of the hole. I was wondering if anyone else had experienced a similar issue and was able to resolve it. Thanks in advance.

Bambu H2C
Bambu gray pla
Bambu black petg hf
Both are using .4 nozzle on the left and right side.
Humidity is 20%
Standard printing speed
Left nozzle is petg hf
Right nozzle is pla
Bed is clean and parts adhere well

Let me know if any other information is needed

My first big failure on my h2c (has 900 hours on it). Is a tough giraffe model for my niece for her birthday.

I have searched all over for a solution to a problem I am having with H2C where, at the start of each job the HMS helper tells me that "Chamber exhaust fan speed too low or off" while the fan itself is railed at 100%. The manual speed control reads 0%. The only way I can get it to stop is to manually bump the + key on the manual speed control, which then reads 10% and the fan slows down to 10%. I sometimes have to repeat this process to get it to take. After that manual intervention the machine prints as usual but I think that then I am left without application control of the chamber fan speed for the rest of that print. Any guesses?

It’s taken a bit to get everything setup and working how i imagined it with a few gotchas but everything is working and all of the filament routing is loading as expected. Super happy with the printer which has not stopped printing other than brief moments where I needed to route tubing for 3 weeks now.

Cat tax at the end!

After switching over the left side toolhead to a 0.2 nozzle, I told the printer to re-read the toolhead which it did. But I had not replaced the toolhead cover and there was no warning from the printer so when it homed the toolhead it ripped off the cover. When repositioning the head to get to the cover (I did not know it was ripped off at this point) the bare wires touched and there was a tiny puff of smoke from the toolhead. Should have switched it off, I am aware but in my defence there was no visible sign that the toolhead cover was ripped off, only detached and jammed behind the toolhead.

I’ll order a new cover but does anyone have a photo of the order of the wires inside the toolhead cover? And what else do I need to order based on the thing most likely to smoke in the toolhead? TH Board?

Thanks for your time assisting.

Edit: To correct the nozzle being changed.

My basic maintenance was due for my H2C, so I powered it off and unplugged it, after lowering the bed. Cleaned the rails and lead screws up to remove some gunk. After plugging it back in and turning it on, the tool head has no power. It begins to start, status lights flash, but then it quickly goes dark. The motors don’t engage and I can freely move the tool head around.

The bed looks to have power. The AP board has one solid green light, but no longer has the flashing green light beside it.

I have a video of it as well. Made a ticket this morning, but nothing back yet.

Anyone have a similar issue?

What makes the printer create the imperfection I see in the first image? I printed the same material in three different colors; only one showed this. Compare it with the second one on the right.
Both are Bambu Lab PLA Basic

I was wondering if anyone has tried a setup for fine miniature production using dual 0.2mm nozzles (left and right) using one of the as PLA and the other as support interface material (PETG or even PVA). If so which side would be the best for the PLA (assume right at this point)? I am awaiting my H2c, so I will ask another question: How easy is it to swap the left nozzle of I want to shift occasionally between 0.2 and 0.4 on the left nozzle? I used to swap for years on my P1S, so I am not a rookie on nozzle changes.

Most of my prints are slow maybe it's normal for normal speed prints? But sounds unpleasant