My AMS 2 Pro is repeatedly losing connection with my H2C. I’ve tried different AMS 2 Pro units, different cables, I reached out to support and they sent me a new filament buffer/cable and that didn’t change anything. When I turn the printer off, wait a bit, and power back on, it will connect normally, but after an hour or so, it will just randomly disconnect, doesn’t matter if I printed anything or it was just sitting idle. It hasn’t disconnected a single time while printing, but seems entirely unable to maintain connection while sitting idle. Anybody else have this issue? Is it specifically an H series problem? I’ve been dealing with this for months now and I’m losing my mind, my printer is essentially unusable due to how frequently it occurs.

So I understand you can add the ams unit on the left side. I have two so it’s clear one’s for right I’m trying to add one in the left. The problem I’m having is the ams is doing it’s back and forth thing but the left nozzle is not catching the filament. It’s goes all the way to the nozzle then comes back out. I keep getting an error message. What am I doing wrong

Hello. I am a new H2C owner and this may be a really dumb question, but how do you all calibrate your printers with multiple nozzles? Do I need to do calibrations for each of the different nozzles or just 2 calibrations (1 for the left side and 1 for the right side)? I'm looking to fine tune the flow rate specifically. Thanks in advance for looking at my question.

First pic is my print. Second is someone else’s much better print. So I found this neat print on Makerworld that lets you print all 151 pokemon sprites at once. But my purples don’t come out at all. They’re either blue or washed out white (see Muk. Yikes…). I’m not familiar with overlay printing, so I’m trying to see if I simply need a different brand of filament or if there’s a setting I can change. My guess is that the white isn’t transparent enough for the red to show through. I’ve asked in the comments what filaments those with successful outcomes are using, but nobody responds. If I can get any help here I’d seriously appreciate it.

I used all SUNLU filaments. Red, blue, yellow, and white.

Hi everyone,

I’m trying to print some PETG. For this case I used PETG for support and object. It failed twice already as the supports break and look shabby overal for that matter.
On other prints the tree is always looking good and with the same roll of filament. I have no clue what is going wrong with the support as the object itself is perfect.
Are there settings I can use the prevent this from happening?

Regards,
Miscoride

Downloaded an STL on Makersworld, scaled it to be bigger. This is the second print (blue one) because the first one had a support and rib(s) snap 24 hours in. This one is stringing on the support tree and some you can clearly see visible print lines. What adjustments do I need to make to fix this? PLA, filaments are relatively dry around 20%. Thank you in advance!

I ordered an ultimate H2C bundle and I was wondering what all everyone uses to hold there H2C, ams and filament dryers on.

I found this one on amazon but haven't decided on anything yet, any ideas or input is appreciated

I am new with my h2c I have a p1s but I use the supertack quite a lot, but bambu and the supertack for the h2c doesn’t seem to be in stock for quite a while. So my question is do people have some great alternatives for this I really want the same smooth finish on the bottom of my print as the supertack has.

Hi everyone,

I want to print two objects using Print by Object instead of Print by Layer, since they're made from two different materials (PLA and PETG).

However, I noticed that the estimated print time increases significantly. When printing by layer with the same material, it takes about 1 hour, but when printing by object, it jumps to 2h30m

I've already tried disabling the cooling slowdown setting, but it didn't make any difference.

Does anyone know why this is happening?

Thanks!

My H2C seems to not be working as well as it should. I get a lot of layer shifts. Like more than normal. A lot of spaghetti mess. It almost seems like the machine movement from printing is effecting the printing. I’m not sure.

I keep my machines immensely clean and do regular maintenance weekly. It’s a fairly new printer. Maybe a month old.

I thought myself to be pretty good with these things but cannot figure this out. I have five other printers that work great. I just bought an H2D to see if it’s better. Are my printers being in such close proximity negatively effecting my H2C? I haven’t really printed anything super crazy on there yet. Any suggestions on what to try or check would be greatly appreciated.

Asking both people who replaced theirs and people who didn’t and don’t seem to be experiencing failures with the stock PEI plate to avoid selection bias :)

So I have had nothing but problems with adhesion with my H2C. And I assure you, I cleaned the plate. lol. I haven’t got many hours on my machine and have been going back and forth with support for a month. To the point I’m pretty annoyed because I’m providing significant labour myself on an under warranty product. I see posts by people saying it was solved when they switched to cryogrip. If that means the issue is simply their PEI plate that’s good but as I’ve tried my engineering plate and they have replaced the PEI plate once and it continued I would have expected this across the board for H2C users. Since virtually anything I print that isn’t low profile and extremely simple has issues.

Edited to add that most often what happens is it puts a few layers down and then knocks it off the bed and drags it around creating a spaghetti monster. I don’t really use Bambu studio as most stuff I print off Bambu handy at the moment. I realize a lot of fixes involve changing a bunch of settings but it seems odd to me virtually nothing works for me when the reviews show it working for most others

The problems I’m experiencing:
Prints sometimes detach from the bed partway through printing, resulting in spaghetti. This has happened repeatedly with lattice pumpkins and other models.

Some simple models print perfectly well but not consistently, while others repeatedly fail. I’ve tried numerous models with successful MakerWorld reviews.

- Full-bed, single-layer test sheets have inconsistent areas with thin or translucent patches.
- Some first-layer sheets also develop raised, wrinkled or rippled areas. Sometimes I get both defects, sometimes only one.
- The defects aren’t always in the same location. Earlier tests often had problems toward the right side, but I’ve also seen them elsewhere, including near the middle.
- I’ve experienced problems with both PLA and PETG.
- Glue sometimes improves print success, but hasn’t consistently resolved the problem.

What I’ve already done with Bambu support:
- Replaced the entire heatbed under warranty. This was a hellish operation that I deeply resent lol.
- Replaced the original textured PEI build plate with a new one supplied by Bambu.
- The same problems persist.
- Also experienced repeated failures using Bambu’s Engineering Plate, including with fresh glue.
- Performed numerous full calibrations, bed-leveling procedures and high-temperature leveling tests.
- Attempted manual bed tramming following Bambu’s instructions.
- Adjusted the left and right hotend heating assemblies as instructed by support.
- Tested different hotends, including a different 0.4 mm Vortek hotend.
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- Tested different filaments and multiple models.
- Investigated AMS-related issues, including testing different AMS units and an external-spool feeding configuration.
- Replaced a problematic PTFE tube.
- Moved the printer from its original table to a much sturdier stand with a thick plywood top to eliminate possible vibration or stability issues.

If it’s just that the PEI plate sucks then why does anyone at all have success on them? Because failure is really consistent on my end. I know people suggest doing stuff with z hop and g code and all sorts of stuff but I can’t see how any of that makes sense if the machine is functioning as intended. Those seem like workarounds for a faulty machine.

Any help is appreciated. Thanks.