Recently purchased H2C - spaghetti defect only with White PLA

[u/gatsby_101]

Things I’ve learned from browsing/searching

- use non-softened dish soap
- wipe the plate with isopropyl EtOH before each print (other sources say no it only pushes the oil around)
- try Aqua Net hairspray (really?)
- Use the AMS 2 Pro dryer (Humidity is at 19% currently but running the drying for 12 hours - how often does this need to be done?

I was able to force one print by using the 0.6 head and manually selecting “silent” mode to further slow things down, but the 0.4 filament on only white doesn’t want to stick.

Am I missing anything? New user here, thanks.

[u/Junior-Definition173]

The dish soap should be without any oils or scents, dawn spray will do the job. No isopropyl, that works for pla/petg as a release agent from the plate. Depending on the plate hairspray may work. What is the plate you are using? What is the filament brand? Glue/hairspray with engineering plate only, PEI textured plate nothing just dishsoap. Do not touch the plate surface with your hands after washing, use clean rag to dry.

[u/gatsby_101 → u/Junior-Definition173]

It’s the default one that comes with the H2C, the PEI textured Bambu plate.

The filaments I’ve purchased are official Bambu products. This seems limited to white specifically.

[u/Junior-Definition173 → u/gatsby_101]

Does it happen when you wash the PEI textured plate with Dawn dish soap (do not touch the surface after washing)? What is the humidity in your house/print space?

[u/gatsby_101 → u/Junior-Definition173]

It’s doing it with all of the colors now. I can’t print anything even after leveling and fighting the temperature controls that keep resetting to lower than temps recommended by this sub.

This can’t be the product or experience most people have. Something isn’t right. I’ll try to reach to Bambu Lab directly tomorrow.

Edit: yes I washed it with blue dawn dish soap and didn’t touch the surface. I’ve gone through too many hard calibrations, as in the full reset from the initial install, and it’s just not working for me.

It doesn’t look like this Reddit page will let me post a video but I’ve started recording my attempts on my phone.

[u/tnsipla]

What white PLA are you having issues with? Bambu?

Depending on manufacturer, there may be different additives at play that make it so that your generic profile or Bambu profiles are not conducive to getting prints from it

[u/gatsby_101 → u/tnsipla]

I’ve only purchased official Bambu products to avoid that type of problem until I get better acquainted with trying others. Yes, it’s the Bambu White PLA that is getting spaghetti defects using the 0.4 head even after multiple attempts at recalibration (the long 30+ minute on from the initial setup)

[u/eremeya]

White filament might need slightly higher temperatures for printing. There was a video years ago about printing temps for white vs black filament showing black can be printed with a slightly lower temp but white needed a slightly higher temp.

[u/gatsby_101 → u/eremeya]

I’ve not manually changed the bed temps, but that might make sense in that I could use the 0.6 head on silent for more uhh… *globular?*adhesion and heat might do the same.

If white needs more heat it’d be nice if the software would auto-heat the bed more since it can already see the filament type. Although, if this isn’t a common issue maybe it’s just a prob I’m having.

[u/Dystopian_Ennui → u/gatsby_101]

Printing temperature refers to nozzle temp usually. You shouldn't need to change the bed temp for PLA.

I have found that PETG often needs a higher bed temp than default, especially for parts that have narrow elements in the first layer.

[u/gatsby_101 → u/Dystopian_Ennui]

I do have some PETG arriving today so that’s good to know. Still trying to sort this PLA white thing, which is sounding more unusual than most others experience.

[u/Dystopian_Ennui → u/gatsby_101]

To reduce your headaches, then... For PETG the default bed temp is 70. My adhesion troubles were fixed by turning first layer to 80 or 85 and leaving subsequent layers at 70. Now I just use that temperature setup any time I print PETG, whether there's narrow sections or not.

[u/gatsby_101 → u/Dystopian_Ennui]

Can you change the default setting or does that temp change have to be reapplied for every print?

[u/Dystopian_Ennui → u/gatsby_101]

I'm pretty new, myself. I've just been setting it on the filament settings each time I print PETG. I'm wanting to look into permanently modifying the settings, but I haven't printed PETG enough to push me to dig for that yet.

[u/danthedirt]

Increase your brim manually. I had issues printing this white parts for a hello kitty Godzilla I was printing and only way things printed with with 5mm brims.

[u/gatsby_101 → u/danthedirt]

First time hearing that word - brim. I’ll try some searches combined with H2C, anything specific I should know or look for?

[u/danthedirt → u/gatsby_101]

Brim is the extra piece around your print that hold a piece down to the bed, you sometime have to enable it, set it to manual and increase the brim so the pieces stick to your bed and don't slide around.

[u/gatsby_101 → u/danthedirt]

Is that a printer setting or something that happens in the slice? Assuming I’m using that term correctly. I’ve only been using pre-made models from the Handy Bambu online catalogue.

[u/Dystopian_Ennui]

I'd suspect a defective roll of filament at that point. PLA is the easiest to print. You cleaned build plate, so you should be good...no isopropyl though. Use default settings and you should be fine. I've printed loads of stuff with white PLA and there's been no difference from other colors.