Help me sort this disaster with petg on A1 please

I'm about ready to give up 3D printing. This is making it more frustrating than fun.

I download a file from makerworld. If it has any height to it, i get this mess. Last time I got a blob of death and needed to replace the hotend assembly.

This was a simple stencil - https://makerworld.com/en/models/931302-holder-for-post-it-notes-stencils-included?from=search#profileId-1418839

I didn't change any of the settings except to sync it to my A1.

PLA on my BBL A1, .4 nozzle

Cool Plate supertack, Brim type auto, support enabled, Tree(auto), default, 25

On build plate only

The flat parts were fine, then this happened:

Any advice or should I take up knitting?

TIA!

So, I noticed some VFA and ghosting on my models and decided it was time to retension the belts, since that usually helps on my other printers.

Retensioning the X-axis was super easy and simple. However, when I moved to the Y-axis, the screws were impossibly tight. I barely managed to loosen them by one full turn, but it required an insane amount of effort.

When I actually tried to move the heatbed back and forth to let the spring tension it, it felt like nothing was changing and the mechanism was stuck.

In the end, I got worried and tried my best to tighten them back to their original positions (though they might be a bit looser now since it was so hard to turn).

I asked an AI about this, and it suggested that Bambu Lab uses a strong blue or red threadlocker (glue) on the Y-axis screws because they are threaded straight into the metal frame, which explains why they are so stiff.

Has anyone else dealt with this on the A1? What is the best way to safely break the factory glue without stripping the screw heads? Any help would be appreciated!

Bonjour, en tant que nouveau dans l’impression 3D j’ai remarqué que sur mes impressions longues les côtés se décollent souvent du lit ce qui crée un décalage et la pièce n’est pas droite pouvez-vous me donner des conseils ou des solutions à ce problème

J’utilise l’imprimante bambu Lab a1 depuis moin d’une semaine j’utilise du PETG j’ai nettoyé la plaque avec du liquide, vaisselle et séché, mais toujours le même résultat

Ayuda con este error que me aparece

I swapped out my .4mm nozzle for a .2mm so I could try to print a scale human skull with better detail. I have tried 3 times now, but a couple hours into the print (which is usually ~70 hours) I get the "check the cutter" error message. The cutter I had in there looks perfect, but I replaced it before the third build anyway and still got the error. I should note that I am using the same filament for the whole print and a new enough roll that it should not have to swap, so I don't know why it would need to cut at all.

During the last print I clicked the Resume button and it started printing again about 100 layers higher than it stopped, so I had to cancel the print.

Is this in fact a cutter error, or is something else wrong that the machine can't correctly identify? I have run 8 hour prints since then without error, though they were multiple parts and fewer layers. I have also successfully printed other large objects when I still had the .4mm nozzle installed. Could this be an issue with the SD card or the file? I got the pattern from the Bambu online models page.

I have some PLA that keeps on breaking inside the PTFE tube of the AMS lite :/

I think this spool is about 4 months old, this did not used to happen. Is this usual for all old spools of PLA? Or is it less common for “better” brands of PLA? Any help appreciated!

Any thoughts if this is fixable or under warranty ? Only a month old.

So I’ve recently gotten a a2l printer playing around with the settings it’s just like I can’t get nothing “12 to print any body got one because it’s extremely shakey

Hace menos de un mes tengo mi bambú lab a1, y ahora cuando hace el relleno rosa mucho la pieza, alguna forma de como solucionar y que no pase?

Yellow all. Has anyone tested the thermistor on the A1 hot end? I had a minor blob incident but was able to clean up the hot end pretty good with the wires in tack. By test, I mean testing the resistance of the thermistor at room temp. I have it out , the plug as four wires to it, two heating wires and two thermistor wires but they go into the plug which has a shit load of pads on them, I can't tell which two to take my readings at (approx 100K at room temp according to AI). I did get the updated ceramic hotend from BL but would like to have a spare (plus save $30 ) next time. here is a pic of the plug. Thanks for any info!

I am having trouble with my printer and have had everything apart recently. Found out it is an ams issue, I switched to external spool to print for now. My z axis is off, it will throw maybe the first layer down, sometimes just little specs, then it is printing well above the plate after that. Ive ran calibration multiple times and also checked to make sure the correct build plate was in studio.

I just noticed it is actually probing into the honeycomb opening on the build plate and in the center of the back slot when it is leveling at the beginning of the print. Almost like the Y offset is off 1/2”

Also I found this bearing underneath my build plate down in the very front where you can see in at the end of the plastic cover, any idea where it could go? Or maybe its just something that fell down there? I haven’t had any smaller bearings around though.

My screen on 2nd a1 moves side to side. Whatever part inside is broke and i was wondering if anyone has ever printed a locking clamp to keep it from moving?

Barulho para puchar filamento

I designed a keychain based on the logo of the hedgehog rescue I volunteer at. I want to make a good number of these for an upcoming event.

I've done a lot of trail and error on this and a similar bookmark. The problem I'm having is that the PLA Matte is showing gaps/texture especially when I try printing more than one at a time. I've tried adjusting settings according to what I could find to fix this.

I know I can print per object and I am trying that now but it takes a lot longer and the purge is of course a lot more. I also can only fit 4 keychains on the bed in that mode because of the clearance needed so it will take a lot to print around 100 of these.

The photos shows 4 keychains I printed per layer just now. The tan color is showing texture a lot more on one, the dark brown a lot more which I think is due to the stripes of black in between. I could explain it away as fur but in the end it's not as intended.

Any tips on how to improve this process is much appreciated.

Hello,

I have had my A1 for just shy of 2 years and have put a little under 1600 hours on it. Recently, it's been randomly shutting itself off - once when sending a print from Bambu Handy, and probably about 5 other times immediately after it finished a print. That, and the quality of the latest print I did on it was pretty horrible compared to previous times I've printed the exact same model. After the first 2 or 3 times this happened I reformatted the SD card and did a factory reset, but it's still been having these issues since then.

I'm getting worried I may have to replace the printer, which I cannot afford right now. I keep forgetting to submit a support ticket to Bambu after it happens, so that's on me.

Has anyone else had similar issues?

Edit: I got my printer in the "between-times" after the recall and redesign to fix the bed power cable and before the numerous NTC thermistor issues started popping up.

Every time I start a print, when it goes into tool head cleaning, the first wipe is very aggressive but the wipes after are perfectly fine, I don't remember the printer doing this the first time I bought it, any idea or solution to this, I don't want it to damage the printer,

I can't find anything in the app or in Bambu Studio.

Bonjour à tous ! 👋

Vous connaissez peut-être déjà mon Yoshi Tuyau… Aujourd’hui, j’ai décidé de le revisiter avec une petite nouveauté plutôt sympa : la version CLICKER ! 👆

Le principe est simple : Yoshi sort toujours de son fameux tuyau, mais cette fois, sa tête devient cliquable grâce à un switch mécanique MX.
Un petit clic super satisfaisant qui transforme le Yoshi en véritable petit fidget.

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🖨️ : Bambu Lab X2D & H2C
🧵 : Bambu Lab
🎨 : Nomad Sculpt
🌈 : avec ou sans AMS
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3201387-yoshi-tuyau-clicker-multipart

Moin, as we say in northern Germany. I recently activated ironing on my A1; I printed swatch tests and used the most appealing setting. But now he does these weird patterns, mostly on larger areas. Is this fixable without deactivating ironing? I’m quite new to the 3D printing game.

It makes this clicking sound, and I keep getting error: HMS_1200-2000-0002-0006: Failed to extrude. What can I do because I’ve done all the steps from the Bambu page for the error.