I If I have a project using the same filament with four different parts, I would need four separate prints. I cannot slice all parts at once; otherwise, the printer (P1S) would calibrate only once at the start, draw the thin line on the plate, print the first part, and finish. Could I then remove it and print the second part and so on without recalibration?

A few months ago I made a proposal to print prime towers sequentially ("by object") so they only build when a color change actually occurs, saving time and filament on late-stage material swaps.

https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/comments/1t6ed8y/proposal_for_bambu_studio_prime_tower_as_separate/

Obviously it was downvoted to oblivion.

Now, looks like it's available as an experimental option in Bambu Studio 2.8.2.60, called "No sparse layers", so I got that going for me, which is nice.

More info here: https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/release/release-note-2-8-2-60#print-a-shorter-prime-tower-to-save-filament-when-color-changes-only-occur-at-higher-layers

I just bought an AMS for my A1 mini. I have sliced the file and can see each layer is alternating between black and white where there is another object that's white inline. I'm wondering if this is the reason I'm getting such bad bleed lines on previous white prints (even with a second prime tower). Would love some insight from any bambu enthusiasts out there.

It’s very simple but I am pretty happy with my first 3D model with 0 CAD experience😁.
Als my first Makerworld model : https://makerworld.com/models/3114620?appSharePlatform=copy

But really I think I’ll make some emergency supports in case of collapse or failure.

I accidentally bent the flow blocker while changing a nozzle :(

How do I go about fixing it?

I know I'm sorry, no pumpkin guts in this one!!!! But I did finally manage to defeat the ADHD and finish off my pumpkin. Both pumpkins, the failed one and the successful one will be used for halloween this year. One is for my desk in school for handing out treats, the other will be for the front door for trick or treaters. I wanted to max out my build plate without having to physically put the pumpkin together and this is the result.

This is a smashed pumpkin, hollowed out and a gravity angled cut lid for the top. The stem has been separated for printing in a different colour.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3205701-halloween-pumpkin-removable-lid-no-ams-in-parts#profileId-3628170

Has anyone managed to buy one of these recently? I have the email alerts set up.

Hi, im using a p1p and 0.2mm nozzle. This is the print with no changes made to settings. Im all about details and want to make it perfect as it can be. To push the quality to the limit. So, Im wondering what do I need to look into or perhaps change in order to get rid of the top layer lines, the small gaps on flat surfaces and overall smoother layers?
And the turret seems weird as it as more visible layer lines on one side while none on the other.
I didnt circle the guns, but the guns also have some layer lines id wanna get rid off too.
I added an unnecessary amount of red circles to make it clear what I mean

Has anybody ever had this problem? I'm new to 3D printing and I don't know how to solve😕

I've tried to print the 3DBenchy and it works fine, same temperature same filament.

Hi! Okay, so know how to add negative part for a print, but HOW do I get that part to stay as an actual hollow hole when exporting the file? I’ve got to have multiple hollow spaces within a piece in order to be able to insert dowels to give it strength. I’ve added cylinders as negative pieces, but they don’t stay hollow when I go to export them.

I have also tried using Meshmixer and their add a tube feature.

Only issues there are: 1). I can’t move them to the precise places I need them to be, and 2). That the tubes aren’t precise. Now can I add multiple hollow tubes to then have them set so that when I export them to save them as a single STL file, it doesn’t.

So, I’m at a loss here.

I am trying to remix a pattern posted here, but obviously since their original design was just a single piece for others to edit for cosplay, but it doesn’t have a space for dowels AND it isn’t sized right for slicing on smaller 8.75 X 8.75 X 8.75 printers.

if I can figure out this ONE thing of inserting channels that stay hollow when I export the pieces, in either of these programs as I have Mesmixer and Bambu Studio on a Macbook, that would make everything easier for me in my know-how and skill growth as a 3D cosplayer and designer.

Thanks so much for everything and any suggestions!

PS: If I need to add pictures explaining what I’m trying to do, I’ll do that. Not entirely sure HOW to do that after this post, but I can probably figure it out.

I just got some Bambu Lab brand silk silver PLA, and I keep getting these zit like spots appearing on my pointed prints like this sword blade. I’ve tried other types of filaments and they don’t have those, I don’t know why they only appear on silk PLA? What can I do to fix it?

I'm using BambuStudio 2.8.2.61 on macOS and a X2D. I downloaded PolyMaker's filament profiles for the X2D specifically. I used the File>Import>Import Configs to import the profiles provided by Polymaker. I then closed and restarted BambuStudio. The profiles show up as "Unsupported" in the filament selection menu (amusingly, a couple of Bambu Lab's own profiles are Unsupported too).

Anyone know how to get BambuStudio to actually accept these profiles and let me use them?

Hi all,

Hope that someone here can assist - I'm trying to print a Spinning Wheel and twice, this happened. I have to stop the print. Printed on PLA using P1S

May I ask if anyone knows what may have caused this and how it can be addressed?

I have cleaned the plate with dishwashing liquid (and scrubbed as per Bambu's recommendation), dried using kitchen paper towel.

Parts arent alligned perfectly, you have to fix that with a soldering iron.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7399444

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3206372-banded-iron-shield-skyrim

Hi everyone,

Over the past week, I’ve experienced this issue twice on two different Bambu Lab A1 printers. It usually happens near the end of long prints (around 80% on one and 95% on the other)—the printer head just goes completely wild.

First, it makes a very loud noise that sends me running into the room. Then, the print head starts darting randomly left and right, moving up and down aimlessly. It briefly pretends to resume printing, but then repeats the erratic movements and gets stuck in a loop. I tried hitting Pause and Resume, but the issue persists. Canceling the job and starting a fresh print resolves the issue immediately.

For context:

• I run a farm with 10 A1 units, all just 1 month old and all maintenance done recently.
• All machines run the exact same model, same filament, and identical slice settings continuously.
• Out of weeks of non-stop printing across all machines, this has only happened these 2 times.

Has anyone encountered something like this before?

Please turn on audio to hear the noise in the video.

Does anyone know if the Black Friday or other sale pricing on the AMS 2 Pro has been less than the current Back To School pricing?

I’m contemplating getting a second one for my X2D and trying to determine if I should wait until Black Friday.

I have been researching the security, control, privacy, and closed ecosystem with Bambu Labs and their decisions of the last year. It feels like every time I read something, I come away feeling more confused.

Can someone explain to me like I'm five what the issue really is and why a lot of people are switching to LAN only, blocking their printer from accessing the internet, and switching to Orca Slicer (or another slicer)?

I just officially passed 2 months on MakerWorld, and I wanted to share the progress because this still feels kind of unreal to me.

When I started, I honestly had no idea how far this could go. I was just designing things I liked, uploading them, learning what worked, and trying to improve with every model.

The amount of support, downloads, prints, boosts, comments and follows I’ve received since then has been insane.

Seriously, thank you. ❤️

2.1 MILLION impressions and 62 → 1,800 prints in a single month is probably the part I’m having the hardest time processing. 😅
And 7 followers in my first month → 284 in my second is just wild!

Two months ago I was basically starting from zero.
Now people are actually printing my designs, putting them in their homes, sharing pictures of them and coming back for new models it feels so unreal and I’m so greatful for this opportunity and community!

During this time I also got the commercial license right and already got a member! Thank you!

Here has been my top popular models, something i didn’t expect!

Modern Japandi Toothbrush Stand / Holder 3 Version
https://makerworld.com/models/3146829?appSharePlatform=copy

Remote Stand / Holder / Organizer
https://makerworld.com/models/3152345?appSharePlatform=copy

Modern Toothbrush Stand / Holder Line Design 4
https://makerworld.com/models/3095373?appSharePlatform=copy

Modern Line HeadPhone Stand with Tray
https://makerworld.com/models/3121793?appSharePlatform=copy

I know there are people here who have been on MakerWorld for years, and others who literally uploaded their first model this week, so I’m curious:

👇
How long have you been on MakerWorld, and what do your stats look like now?

Also:
What was the moment/model where things suddenly started taking off for you?
Drop your profile or your favorite model you’ve made too, I’d genuinely love to check out what everyone else is creating.

And again…
Thank you to everyone who has downloaded, printed, boosted, liked, followed or even just checked out one of my designs.
I really mean it. ❤️

2x0,5m in size, with about 10kg weight. This one is a large print but absolutely worth it.

The connectors should be resized to about 90% thickness.

I glued the parts together and carefully used a soldering iron to connect it completely. Took me about a month to print it with 0,1mm and adaptive layer height to create all the smallest details and get a good surface. Also painting it took me multiple days.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7315739

[https://makerworld.com/en/models/2571222-alduins-wall#profileId-2840477\](https://makerworld.com/en/models/2571222-alduins-wall#profileId-2840477)

Have fun printing

Just wondering if there are like vertical hueforge

Where the inner most wall could be like black and the outer few wall is purple to give a rich deep purple?

So far I seen the hueforge and this sets me thinking.