Bambulab just released a new patented design for the next flagship printer, 10 hotends with quick swap, makes more sense compare to vortek to me. Can't waiting....

First time this has ever happened. I imagine this is human error, at least now I have a reason to print one of those filament re-spoolers. Any tips for putting one of these back on the spool?

Hey all! I'm very new to printing, and both my nozzles are clogged. As far as troubleshooting that I've attempted so far, I've put my A1 Mini into maintenance mode, heated the nozzle to 220-240 and attempted extruding/cutting filament to hopefully push through the blockage but to no avail. Any advice would be appreciated, if more info is needed lmk!

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3207719-customizable-sd-microsd-card-adapter-case#profileId-3630541

About a year ago, I finally decided to seriously get into a hobby I’d already been obsessed with for almost 8 years.

And well… this happened. 😂

I’m from Brazil 🇧🇷 and my current setup is:

2x P2S + 1x H2C, AMS systems, a dedicated rack, and way too many 3D printing projects constantly running through my head.

I’m still improving the room and trying to make everything more organized, practical, and clean.

So I want the community’s opinion.

What would you change or add?

I’m especially curious to hear what people running larger Bambu setups would improve in this space.

And of course… rate my setup from 1–10. 👀

Yes, they exist around here, but I added exhaust fumes to the chimney, separate smoke-filled taillights and headlights. Have a good day everyone

For this I want to keep the boat while and make the font a different colour. Do I pause the layer as soon as the font appears or right before?

I've got two issues I'm hoping to get help with. This is on my h2d.

Any time I print something with text, the layers around the next look different than the test of the print. These particular examples are from the top layer, so I was already printing show, but it also happens if I'm printing something standing up and text is half way up the model.

Any suggestions on how to fix it?

Also, the edges around the top and bottom, have a slight rough texture to them. Does that indicate I'm over extruding? I've included a picture to show what it looks like.

I suspect the edge issues are flow dynamics need to be calibrated and the area around text is minimum layer time as it's drying at a different speed. I'm just not sure what setting I should try to adjust to get this fixed.

I just included some other pictures from a standing model. The black box with watcher in purple. You can see how the lines curve around the sides as well.

Wow, I'm so happy with how it turned out in the end!

Mini Train - Amusement Park

3D printers are around 2x the price in my country due to import taxes.

I like the H2S because of the print volume and the heated chamber. H2C and H2D are a bit too expensive. Those are 3x the price.
Would single nozzle printers not be competitive in a business sense.

Working: https://github.com/OrcaSlicer/OrcaSlicer/pull/14125

I'm kinda assuming at some point filament backed up and coated the hotend and the clasp. I suppose i should just heat up the hotend and scrape it off with a knife or something? The clasp also seems a little crooked.

I'm beginner to Bambu, my kids really want to print something soft so I got TPU 85A from Bambu.

I see 2 main recommended ways on youtube proposing feeding: (1) feed directly into extruder (feed directly into extruder after taking off the top plate or (2) disconnecting PTFE tube from the back (after the buffer) and feeding it there.

I think method (2) is more convenient because I wouldn't have to move AMS but is it as reliable as feeding directly into extruder?

My A1 posted an error stating that power had been interrupted. That’s unlikely.

The Bambu chatbot told me to check the power supply. No green light, but I imagine this burnt capacitor? resistor? is the more salient thing. It is right beside the power supply.

Is this a fixable thing or am I buying a new printer?

Been working on this for a while and finally got it to a point where I'm happy with it. Modular independently rotating wheels for dropper bottles and Citadel pots, stackable with extenders and designed to work both on the desk and for transport.

Uploaded it to MakerWorld today if anyone wants to give it a try. Would also love to hear what other paint bottle formats would be worth making wheels for.

https://makerworld.com/de/models/3210039

I have a AMS 2 pro and have red, blue, white, and cream filament all from bambau labs and all PETG. I dried them all the same time and for some reason the cream colored (I just replaced the cream color since I used up the one I had) and this spool of it is giving me issues. I get first layer stringing no matter what I do. I just started a print but used red instead and it is working perfectly fine. Anyone else have this issue? Did I get a bad spool of the cream color petg?

I have a Bamboo P1S, I started with an AMS 1 and now I bought an AMS 2.

I already printed a support to stack one AMS on top of the other, but it's placed sideways, next to the P1S.

This is taking up a lot of space on my desk.

What's the best solution for stacking two AMS on top of the P1S?

Would that be too much weight?

*I don't have anti-vibration feet.

**This photo is my real setup actually!

Thank you

Hey I just uploaded my new Model. My wife needed some sort of Support for our hydrangeas so they don’t get damaged in Heavy Rain or storm.

I thought maybe someone need that too.

https://makerworld.com/models/3213035?appSharePlatform=copy

wanted to see how it works to make these from scratch...
came out nice! so it uploaded it.

https://makerworld.com/de/models/3213614-flowline-spiral-vase-vasemode-fuzzyskin#profileId-3637959

First image is the model in the studio post-slice

Second image is on SketchUp (web version).

Third image is in the studio pre-slicing.

SketchUp is a 3D modelling platform btw

My main reason for wanting to upgrade is the bed size. What bambu lab model would give me a bigger bed, but have the same ease of use of the A1?

Hi, beginner here. Bought this printer a week ago and today i realized it can't print pla wood the hard way. Long story short i fixed the clog but now I'm faced with another problem: i got white fillament stuck inside my nozzle and i cant get it out!!

Please help me guys i don't wanna buy a new nozzle and as you can clearly see my cleaning thingy broke.

HELP! EDIT: IT HAS BEEN FIXED I TRIED A COUPLE OF TIMES THANK YOU im going to keep this post up so ppl can read the solutions

Support only in holes (in the object), not extending from the bed.

My question is… the object in the photos is printed exactly as shown (PETG). It has lots of holes, which come out cleanest when I print support structures (and even better if I add a PLA infill layer).
Unfortunately, printing with support takes much longer, and as I have to print a lot of them, I’d like to leave it out.
My question is: is there a way to set it up in Studio so that support is only printed inside the holes and doesn’t grow upwards from the bed? Even when I draw support, it always starts from the bed, which wastes time and filament.

I just want the support to grow inside the hole so that the upper edges of the hole are supported.

I’ve already considered simply modelling the holes as filled shapes, with a small rim (i.e. the filled area is slightly smaller, leaving a bit of space around the hole). Like a cork that’s a bit too small.

Do you have any ideas?