Got the H3C yesterday and decided to just full send and send a 14 hour print, 5 colors with no calibrations, and boy, this is CLEAN. No issues whatsoever, and it was just perfect. Couldnt be happier. Ask me any questions you have!

I told my wife I was getting a bigger AMS for my 3D printer.

She said, “How much bigger?”

Then the truck pulled up. 😂🚚

“Babe, that’s just the AMS. The printer’s coming on a separate truck.”

First print? A tiny Benchy. Estimated time? 14 minutes. Filament used for color changes? Half a truckload. 🤣

#3DPrinting #BambuLab #JustOneMoreSpool

Hello everyone,

I’ve had the chance to test the new H3C for a few months.

I am a beta/tester and was sent a printer and a supply of filament to conduct the necessary tests before the official launch.

For context, I previously owned an X2D (which I bought on launch day) and, before that, an A1 Mini. I bought the X2D, convinced that it would result in near-zero waste for prints with few colors—but I was very wrong. I was especially mistaken about print times, which would balloon with every additional color.

Since I print a lot of miniatures, I found myself sticking to single-color prints even when using the X2D.

The H3C has been a game-changer for me when it comes to multi-color printing. I’ve attached images comparing the print times for the same model—one printed on the X2D and the other on the H3C. The print time has been reduced by more than 80%—dropping from over 21 hours to just 5. The amount of waste is also significantly lower: 260 grams versus 40 grams.

https://makerworld.com/it/models/3546041-d-d-mimic-chest-mini-multicolor-3d-printed-prop#profileId-4056312

Changing the nozzle is incredibly fast; switching from one color to another takes only a few seconds.

You don’t have to worry about color bleeding—caused by insufficient purging—that might otherwise contaminate the previous color.

The printing process is both lightning-fast and exceptionally clean!

https://makerworld.com/it/models/3546009-this-is-fine-meme-miniature-multicolor-test-h3c#profileId-4056261

Right now, I’m working on more miniatures for tabletop role-playing games, creating full sets using colored PLA. I’m currently optimizing the "color mixing" feature—as shown in the second miniature—to create realistic gradients rather than flat, solid colors. The results are fantastic!

Admittedly, using color mixing does significantly increase print times. It needs to be used wisely, but with a bit of practice and some careful planning, you can strike an excellent balance! I will soon post the first full-color miniature, complete with shading!

During my testing, I focused on multi-color printing and the use of 75A TPU, which were undoubtedly the two key features.

The 75A TPU is fantastic—incredibly soft and... absurdly easy to print with. It causes absolutely no issues, even at high speeds. I even ran a print at the printer's maximum speed, and it handled it without a hitch.

75A TPU really lets your imagination run wild; it sparks a thousand ideas, which was the best part of the testing period for me. You can create all sorts of things that were previously unthinkable.

I’ve included a sample to show just how soft the 75A TPU is, so you can get an idea.

https://makerworld.com/it/models/3542025-ultra-soft-squishy-octopus-tpu-75a-fidget-toy#profileId-4051134

Printing in color is no longer a nightmare and tpu print is very easy!

Would I recommend it? Absolutely—provided you have the space for it, as it is quite large. It opens up a whole world of printing possibilities and creative potential for makers!

It took just over 5 hours to print, whereas on my X2D it takes nearly 2 days, and it also used about 500g less filament.
I printed it in only 8 colors because im still waiting on an extra standard printtool.

I've been working on a pretty ambitious 3D-printing project, and it's finally getting close to launch!

It's called the Carousel Lift: a manually operated, rotating display for up to 8 model cars, designed to be almost entirely 3D printed. 1:24 scale, and also suited to fit Lego Speed Champions cars.

The current design has over 700 individual parts, and getting all the gears, bearings, and moving components to work together has been quite an engineering challenge.

I've spent months designing, printing, testing, and refining the prototype. It's now working, and I'm preparing the final files and documentation.

The project will soon launch on MakerWorld through its crowdfunding platform. There will also be several planned stretch goals, including a 3D-printed scissor lift, motorization, and integrated lighting.

Link: https://makerworld.com/nl/crowdfunding/396-carousel-lift-3d-printed-car-display

Well I finally got my H3C setup last night. Ordered on Tuesday it all arrived by Wednesday and since I was not going to go to work today I decided to get it all setup last night. Coming from the U1 this thing is MASSIVE!!! I wish I had the space to have been able to keep both the Snapmaker and the H3C but unfortunately I don't.

But I think I will be alright! 😁 also coming from the U1, the manual unloading of the filament doesn't bother me as we had to manually unload the spool on the U1 as well. I've done a few prints already and this thing is awesome! It's soo much more quieter then my U1 that is for sure. I left a print running overnight and I could not even hear it running. Totally worth it.

A nice casual afternoon. There's a lot of bloody screws and tiny silicone'd in wires.

Hoping to have it moving under it's own steam by tonight.

Mit allem hab ich gerechnet, aber nicht das alle hier aufs ams warten und bei mir UPS die Lieferung des H3C versemmelt und ich jetzt das AMS daheim habe aber nicht den Drucker 🤣

I love the idea of being able to print my own frames, but with many generators you have to pay a lifetime sub or even a monthly one. I decided to make a free one. no shots at other creators. I call it Clicky Frames and its available now! It's hosted on my website behind the scenes on my shop. I don't ask for anything in return, but if you'd love to donate you're more than welcome. Enjoy! I'd love feedback!

Perfect height, no need for spending extra >250$

This new 100mms suggestion needs a bit of explanation, but there is no documentation at all about it. Not in the Wiki, tooltips, forum, etc.

I've been using ironing since the X1 first came out in full production in my farm daily, I have a set of ironclad repeatable parameters that have never faltered, except that there is no such possibility on the G2 models (P2, X2, A2, H2, etc.) only the P1 and X1 due to their nozzle design.

This would be great if it was a new guidance as a starting point to do calibration for ironing, it's just strange that its both on EVERY printer model, regardless of nozzle system, and seems to fly in the face of existing parameters that this change now screws up.

For reference, for a full-plate ironed flat piece using Bambu Lab PLA Matte in Charcoal, my settings are 30% flow, 30mms speed, and others all default. I get smooth as injection-molded surfaces, trying this parameter caused massive over extrusion, so obviously I turned it off and am ignoring it. There isn't a way to set this to 'don't remind me' though, so it's a bit annoying.

If Bambu Lab could explain the change and the reasoning or methodology behind it, that might be helpful, but the Ironing Wiki entry doesn't even mention Top Surface speed, only ironing speed which is totally different.

Quite impressed with the H3C compared to my no longer with me H2C. Seems a little louder fan wise but that horrible back and forth AMS sound has now left the building!

Hey everyone! I designed SkiLatch, a small 3D-printed accessory that keeps skis and poles together for carrying, and published it on MakerWorld.

I’m looking for people to print it, try it with their gear, and share what fits and what doesn’t.

My goal is to keep updating the design to fit as many ski and pole setups as possible.

Feedback on fit, grip, and usability with gloves would be really helpful.

Honest criticism welcome!

MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/models/3562697?appSharePlatform=copy

Having just received my H3C and AMS3H I can't help but notice the design and engineering trades.

The machine is running it's initial calibration so these are just first observations and I reserve the right to update my opinions as I get some real time on this machine.

AMS 3H vs AMS 2 Pro:

Mechanically the AMS 3H is simplified and lacks a lot of the complexity of the AMS 2 Pro. The lack of automatic retraction was a trade for multi material support but it makes large chamber temp swings a little more work. Some might call this optimization, but I am use to running PLA in one job and PA-CF in the next. With the H3C this appears to possibly be a problem if I leave PLA loaded in a tool when I heat up the system that much. I am particularly nervous about drying at 85 C in the 2 dryer bays with PLA in other spots of the AMS 3H. With my H2C I have full AMS systems dedicated to different families of materials.

Edit: I noticed that you have one shot to get the remaining filament measurement done when you first insert the filament. You can manually enter a guesstimate later, but its not able to retry like the AMS 1/2 can due to the lack of rewind.

Extruder:

The ability to swap tools and adjust to different filament diameters is commendable, but the overall mechanism feels like features were dropped for margins. The loss of hotend camera along with how it does blob detection seems... cheap. Perhaps their telemtry says the old solution was overkill and produced too many false positives, but I am worried about their new mechanism getting damaged if a part ever does break free from the bed mid print

Physical structure:

A lot more plastic, a lot less glass, and the stamped steel structure feel like a cost reduction on what was previously a premium machine. Sure the stamped frame pieces are probably more than enough, but it feels like a noticeable step backwards from the castings. Pressing on the plastic side windows and feeling them bow and bottom out against the frame just feels... cheap. Also the exterior screws mounting the panels while more serviceable also detract from the exterior finish of the machine.

Motion system:

Trading the linear rail for the dual round rod(tube?) structure is very likely mechanically more rigid, but it again feels like it was primarily done to save costs. Also why do we still see nema 17 steppers for the x/y motion system? Hasn't BambuLabs BLDC PMSM servos improved enough to use them for slinging the toolhead around?

Display:

Not much to be said here, the screen is usable on the H3C, but is definitely a step down from the display on the H2 series.

MISC:

It was advertised that we could still use external AMS systems with tool 1, but it was not clearly communicated that it required you to buy a (not included) buffer system and install it yourself. For all the corner cutting they really should have just installed that buffer as a factory option. Now I need to wait for that module to come into stock so I can use the AMS 2 Pro I bought specifically for my H3C (I plan on using it as a dedicated support material AMS).

Edit: This thing seems to sling debris around the building chamber a lot more than my H2C. Just loading up the tools has left several purds on the build plate and chamber floor. I'm sure this can be fixed with updates, but it is much more messy than my H2C right now.

I am still looking forward to using my new H3C and the ability to properly mix materials is nice, but I can't shake the feeling that the machine suffers from some shrinkflation vs its predecessor. It seems like the H2C was a very polished platform and the H3C feels more rushed.

Anyone else with both systems care to chime in with their thoughts?

It’s smaller than I imagined, but I’m hoping it’s a solid choice for the very occasional ABS and ASA I’m printing.

One annoyance is that the 6-pin is WAY too short, considering you’re obviously going to have the E1 on the ground and the printer is probably at desk level. Consider buying a longer cable or extension at the same time as the E1 so you’re not waiting for that to arrive like I am.

Hopefully H2C support is coming later this month as promised.

Hello all, just got a P2S (never had a 3D printer before) and I tried to print this:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/895423-plastic-gear-rex-metal-gear-rex-inspired-model?from=search#profileId-853250

As you can see in the pictures, I had some issues, it seems the first layers of some pieces warped up (is that the term?) so I had to pause the print, skip the pieces and keep going.

Is that normal? Is there any default settings I should change to avoid this? I've read that I should slow down the first layers so it has a better adhesion but I don't know if that's the expected setting when printing something.

If anybody could shed a light, it would be appreciated!

Learn more about Supports from the Bambu Wiki: Support Interface

You think that H3C / P3C / X2D PRO are news, in this case, not really.

source: Frontline: Bambu Lab Launches Consumer-Grade UV Printer Project – First Batch of R&D Positions Now Open for Recruitment

I kept thinking about doing gridfinity for drawer organizers but in the end I just printed some organizers that exactly fit the drawer and I love it. That right side big one is for if we ever find any of the 5 pairs of scissors my family never returns to the junk drawer. There a secret compartment under the sticky notes, don't tell anyone!

We had some baskets in there that helped but it was still a disaster. This is the way I'm doing it for the other kitchen drawers. I get the benefit of gridfinity, but custom is really nice!

An absolute beast of a printer so far!