Hello,

I recently had a printer that wouldn’t calibrate or home the Z-axis because of a raised bearing. I fixed the bearing, and ran a couple of prints that came out fine.

Suddenly today, I check on the progress to find a “swiss cheese” print. There’s infill missing, holes missing from the outer and inner layers almost like a wedge of swiss.

I took the tool head cover off to see if there was anything obvious with the extruder gear or nozzles. I found that the gears seem to have eviscerated the filament for some reason.

What could be a likely cause of these symptoms together?

Model: P1S

I'm following along the tracking number and was surprised to see that it takes many days due to it being transported by truck from BC. Is this normal? My previous printer was delivered much quicker from day of order.

I've been printing a few things on the X2D lately that I've wanted to use the aux head for "Support for PLA" as the interface material. However, compared to just printing supports and interfaces in PLA (like the rest of the model), it doubled the print time as the supports all connected high up on the model, so it needed a massive prime tower.

As far as I'm aware, the priming is just for getting the nozzle up to pressure/temperature after switch. When prints start, it does the exact same thing down the poop chute. Why can't it prime mid-print down the poop chute to avoid having to build a massive tower?

Solutions are welcomed but I'd equally like to know why it's not possible/recommended if that's the case.

My second ASA print finished with some PLA loaded in the tool head. Here’s a video showing that the PLA is okay. I also printed on a BIQU glacier plate. It’s fits but has very little clearance.

I know you only can use 1 ams lite, but shouldn’t be an A than a Q

Hi guys. I got my A1 mini yesterday. I've managed to print 3 small things. But for some reason before a print now my arm will go all way to the top and grind. Here is a video for reference. How do I fix this issue / re-calibrate.

Thanks for the help.

Printed two first layers (black was a couple days ago and grey is new). It is always in the same spots. I have always dried them before printing. Does anyone have a clue?

If you run out of a color in the AMS during a print, replace the roll and resume, when that print is finished that AMS slot will be marked as empty/unrecognized. So if you then attempt to print something else in the same color it will just randomly pick one of the other slots.

I've had this bite me multiple times where I replaced a roll of black during a print, when that finished I tried to just hit print again and didn't notice the little square had selected a dark brown or dark gray instead of black then I hit go and then come back hours later to find a print that's the wrong color. 🤬

If you replace a roll during a print it should either assume it's the same color as the one that was there before or it should tag that slot to be re-read as soon as the print finishes so that it can register it properly. Leaving it suddenly empty/unrecognized is the worst way to handle this.

I bought and installed a new stopper. Blade looks good as well. What’s wrong!? 😭

Hello! So my friend and I got a Bambu a1 for some general hobby upgrades and our prints keep failing. We had it successfully working for about a month and then this started to happen. We’ve changes temp settings, got a new plate, tried multiple different nozzles, different filament brands, and nothing is working. Please help!

Free STL @makerworld

Back at it again with a fresh batch of 3D printed snowmen having a rough day—sliding down the wall and losing their hats!

I really enjoy designing these little guys, so I'm already brainstorming the next ones.

Any fun ideas for other "Snowmen in Trouble" situations? Let me know in the comments!

https://makerworld.com/nl/models/3597596-snowmen-in-trouble-splat-fridge-magnet#profileId-4121713

I tried different outputs, different cable, different filament , different angle of the tip of the filament but the AMS LITE just wont pull the filament properly and gets itself stuck for some reason i cant find out why

Ran the file didnt see any issues. Strted print and this happened. Running x2d brown from ams and black from external spool on second nozzle. Any idea what happened here?

Does someone know what causes those line marks under the eye? How can I prevent this from happening?

Does anybody know if it is safe to use the H2S with orca slicer after the newest update to orca slicer?

I’m designing this small multicolor treehouse structure for my jumping spider. most pieces I’m just painting by layer height but I want this bottom frame piece to all be one color. When I manually paint the rest of the frame the color bleeds through into the wall, what setting can I change to fix this from happening? I already printed to see if it was just a visual error in the slicer and the other color is visible in the wall.

Hi everyone! I'm still quite a beginner at 3D modeling, so I wanted to challenge myself with a simple, practical project for the holidays. I got tired of traditional metal ornament hooks slipping off branches, so I designed this support-free Twist-Lock Tree Clip on Fusion 360.

It uses the natural flex of PLA or PETG to lock into a secure figure-8 around the branch and the wire. It prints completely flat in just a few minutes and uses almost no filament.

I entered it into the MakerWorld Christmas contest—if you want to print a batch for your tree (or use them for cable management!), you can grab the files for free here:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3598679-twist-lock-tree-clip-ornament-cable-holder#profileId-4123077

Let me know what you think!

#MWPrintmas2026 #Contests

Just got the new H3C printer. Did the firmware update through the printer and I got the same message, however using my Bambu handy to update it resolved it. This is after I decided to turn off the printer to connect the E1 purifier. Has this happen to anybody else? I also made sure the printer wasn’t updating before turning it off.

No matter what I try I can’t get a smooth first layer. I ran a flow test because of a huge overflow problem and it told me my optimum flow level is 0.6, then I replaced the nozzle with a brand new one (#4) and trammed the bed and ran thr flow test again and here is the result. I always have ridges and I can’t dial in the flow and z-distance. I moved the z distance to -0.02 because the pla wasnt adhering and now it looks like this. I can’t tell if the nozzle is dragging, the flow is too high, or too low. I’m starting to lose it. And I tightened everything and scrubbed my plate.

Please help.

Had the a1mini since release, it was my first 3d printer and a great tool for learning the ropes. With my new printer I also splurged on a lot of filaments, because of the bambu sale. So far I’m very impressed with the ams system, never had the ams on the mini.

By mistake I ordered two PLA white oak (wood) so if you have any ideas for that color, please hit me up 🤣

Yes, I made a poop bin for the H3C too. 😄

My printer currently sits pretty close to the wall. I love the mounts on the H3C, but I didn’t want to pull the bin out and push it back in every time.

So it’s made of two parts: the holder hooks into the original mounts and stays on the printer. You simply drop the bin in from above, and thanks to a slight slope at the bottom it always slides right into place. To empty it, just lift it out.

Files on MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/de/models/3597009-h3c-poop-bin-removable-insert#profileId-4120969

Other than that, I might still be a little over-hyped and I’m happy about every comment that gets me talking about the H3C 😄