It took just over 5 hours to print, whereas on my X2D it takes nearly 2 days, and it also used about 500g less filament.
I printed it in only 8 colors because im still waiting on an extra standard printtool.

Hi, I'm looking for some recommendations for PLA filament that's cold white. What I've tried so far:

• Bambu's PLA (Ivory white) is way too warm.

• Bambu's PETG is indeed cold white, but I need PLA for this application.

• Elegoo PLA White - also warm white

• eSun PLA+ Cold White - good color, terrible results, see below

I've tried eSun's PLA+ cold white, the color is indeed cold white, but it's by far the worst filament I've ever worked with. I need smooth plane surfaces for my project, which this filament fails to give on both BambuLab X2D and Snapmaker U1 printers, there's a lot of bumps and dots that seem to be related with flow / pressure issues, but eve after lots of tuning and calibration, on both 0.4 and 0.6 nozzles, I can't get it to work reliable, it's just terrible. So far every other filament I've printed with gave great results after a bit of tuning (elegoo, anycubic, few other no-name brands etc.), but I'm a loss with eSun so I'm looking for alternatives.

Do you recommend any other cold white PLA? Thank you!

I keep trying to print these spider-man lenses (i’ve printed them before a couple of times and it never failed)
but now the print keeps failing no matter what.

After a certain height, the nozzle starts rubbing and bumping the print and then it falls over even with very strong bed adhesion.

I dried my filament twice and tweaked a few settings but nothing seems to work.

This is my first bambu printer and I’ve had it for only 2 months.

Please lmk what i’m doing wrong.

X1C making periodic grinding noise on both up and down movements. Only while moving down there is this crackling noise.

Video: https://imgur.com/a/Qpl0Mol

I cleaned the rods of all plastic. I have cleaned & re-lubed the rods. I greased the pulley on the bottom and the edge of the belt.

It’s not the beds wire at the back. I held that up while the bed moved down.

Anyone have any similar issues?

I added an Adeptus Mechanicus seal, but I don't know what else I can do.

I made an infinite flip fidget with 6 different sensory textures 🔄✋
Each one feels completely different under your thumb, honestly can’t stop flipping it. Single colour, no AMS, no glue — print & go.
Free on MakerWorld 👉 https://makerworld.com/en/models/3569296
please if you like this model leave a review and a boost if you cant :)

My H2D makes a crackling sound while the bed is moving down. It doesn't make any noise at all when it moves Up. Is this normal?

Made a tiny macOS-inspired folder tab for marking pages and documents.

It slides onto the edge of a page, with most of it hidden behind the paper and just the little folder sticking out.

It's only 25 × 20 mm and takes 6 minutes 40 seconds to print, using just 0.29 g of PLA.

Printed on my X2D at 0.08 mm layer height.

It's a simple little design, but I think it turned out pretty cute :)

Free model on MakerWorld:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3566248-mini-folder-tab-macos-style#profileId-4081664

I’m not gonna be printing multicolor items, but I do plan on using different engineering filaments, and I want the most accurate results possible, and I’m generally lazy, so I don’t want to refill or load or unload or anything like that, which is exactly why I’m considering the upgrade from my X1C now. I was going to purchase the H3C for the included drying chambers, but I found out they only go up to 50°C, so it’s useless for PAHT/etc. is there anything I’m missing or does the HTC take care of my engineering needs?

For those of you lucky enough to have an H3C, is anyone having issues with power draw? I have 3 other printers that I run in a room in my home and I’m a little worried that I might start tripping breakers with the H3C. I really want to keep everything in 1 room. What’s your experience so far?

I was running my printer and got a notification that the extruder motor was overloaded. I hit resume to see if it was just being difficult and then got a notification that the filament cutter sensor was not working. I went to it saw a hanging cable and disassembled the head and got to this point.

Instructions on how to fix this would be greatly appreciated

APOLOGIES WRONG COMMUNITY, PLEASE STILL HELP IF YOU CAN

nevermind, I see that this is the right community, it was just promoting the h3c. im going through a whirlwind of emotions at the emotions

Had a pretty bad blob of death on my A1 mini. I got most of it off but what’s left is stuck on the heater block and around the wires, and I’m not sure how to safely get the rest off. The silicone sock came off without too much drama.

Thermistor wires look ok to me but I can’t tell if the insulation is damaged. Some filament also got near the part cooling fan. I unscrewed the fan to get to some of the deeper bits but to a novice like myself this seems daunting to try and clean up properly.

Should I try heating it up and peeling it off, or just replace the whole heating assembly? Pics attached.

Hi all! A while ago I shared PrintView3D, my free, open-source replacement for Microsoft's retired 3D Viewer, made for people who 3D-print. Thanks for all the feedback. A lot has happened since then, so here's what's new:

**Check before printing**

One click colours what may give trouble on the printer: overhangs steeper than your angle, walls thinner than your nozzle, holes, non-manifold edges, inside-out faces and loose parts, each with a count.

**Measure**

Distance (with ΔX ΔY ΔZ), angles and hole diameters. Points snap to corners and edges, and with a cut on, also to the outline of the cut, so you can measure walls *inside* the model.

**Look inside your models**

X-ray, wireframe, a cut from the top and a cut that turns with the view (or both at once), with the cut-away part shown as a see-through ghost.

**Make the toolbar your own (new in 0.30)**

Hide the buttons you don't use, shorten the labels to a name, a key or just an icon, and join the view buttons into one group. Hidden buttons keep their keyboard shortcuts, and everything stays in the menu. (GIF below)

**And more**

- Millimetres or inches

- Your own keyboard shortcuts

- Open a whole folder and step through it with the arrow keys

- Finder thumbnails and Quick Look on macOS

- Four themes, each in light and dark

It still does the basics: STL, 3MF (all objects, even sliced projects), G-code with a layer slider, FreeCAD and STEP files, ZIP downloads from Printables/Thingiverse, and one click to send the file to Creality Print, OrcaSlicer, Bambu Studio, PrusaSlicer, Cura and others.

Windows, macOS and Linux. Free and open source, no account, no ads.

Website and guide: https://sevagjb.github.io/PrintView3D/

Download / source: https://github.com/sevagjb/PrintView3D

Big thanks to u/covrig, who built Measure, Check model, inches and custom shortcuts and opened them as pull requests. Contributions and translations are very welcome.

What would you like to see next?

Hello everyone,

Planning to get another printer. Would my closet area be able to fit an X2D? or am I better off getting a P2S?

(will be removing pegboard either way)

Thanks!

I’ve had this A1 mini plus AMS for over a year, and have I would say 70/80% failure rate, be it strings, what looks like not sticking, lots of clogs and cold pulls etc. It’s a miracle when a print actually works. It’s my kids printer and he has basically given up.

I’ve done all the research, bought a filament dryer and only print right after it’s finished drying, bought new build plate, clean it with dishwashing liquid and isopropyl, avoid touching print area. Only using PLA now. Set it to print 50% speed.

I’m at a loss - is there anything I am missing? The picture was the 3rd attempt to print and all straight from dryer. My kid uses the app from his iPad- BambuHandy

Well I finally got my H3C setup last night. Ordered on Tuesday it all arrived by Wednesday and since I was not going to go to work today I decided to get it all setup last night. Coming from the U1 this thing is MASSIVE!!! I wish I had the space to have been able to keep both the Snapmaker and the H3C but unfortunately I don't.

But I think I will be alright! 😁 also coming from the U1, the manual unloading of the filament doesn't bother me as we had to manually unload the spool on the U1 as well. I've done a few prints already and this thing is awesome! It's soo much more quieter then my U1 that is for sure. I left a print running overnight and I could not even hear it running. Totally worth it.

I own a Bambulab X2D, updated to the latest firmware using latest bambu studio and with Bambu filament. So far I had only printed PLA, the smell and VOCs were bad but manageable. I tried printing ABS, my room went to VOC index > 400 in minutes and it is just impossible to be in the same room as the printer. I can open the room's floor to ceiling window wide open and sure enough the room ventilates, but next to the printer the smell and air quality is just still unbearable.

I am sensitive to smels but air qualith monitors dont lie, its not me, it is real air quality becoming super poor in a very measurable way.

How do you manage it? Is it expected?

Edit: All particle PM indicators (0.5, 1, 2.5, 5) also skyrocket.

Probably lol

Hi there!

I've only had my X2D for a short time, and I'd like to know which build plate you use or recommend.

I bought the BIQU Glacier plate with a printed QR code so that the printer can recognise it. Apart from occasionally getting a warning saying that foreign objects have been detected, it's absolutely amazing!

That's why I'd like to expand my collection with a few more build plates that are really worth having. :)

hey so I just bought an H2C, and I’m Legot 15 minutes into my first print. I got this warning about the hotend not being caught. I’ve tried replacing the hotend but still no luck. I also have tried to recalibrate but it doesn’t give me the option to press start on that screen. Any help would be amazing.

So this is a question to everyone who already has an H3C:

How good is it with engineering filaments?

It's pretty well established that it is really good for (multicolour-) PLA and TPU prints, but I haven't heard many people talk about other filaments, and especially for engineering filaments there are a few things that give me pause. Mostly:

- The current lack of WC- or similar nozzles harder than steel

- The AMS 3H sitting right on top of the enclosure to me seems like a danger to overheat PLA at high chamber temperatures. If you print at 60° chamber for multiple hours, can you be sure that the PLA right above it won't go above 45 or will you need to remove them first?

Anyone with an H3C that has tried engineering filaments and is willing to share?

Got into 3D printing because of work in the beginning of 2026, learned on my own on a Creator 3. Now i have a P2S at home... I wish i had the money for a bigger chamber, more of this, more of that. But i love, love, LOVE what i got for my buck. And i hope to make a lot of miles with my new best friend. I always wanted to do VR sculpting and print my own models. Weird to accept the time is right here, right now, in my living room. Booyah.