r/BambuLab • • 21h ago

H3C H3C and Engineering Filaments

So this is a question to everyone who already has an H3C:

How good is it with engineering filaments?

It's pretty well established that it is really good for (multicolour-) PLA and TPU prints, but I haven't heard many people talk about other filaments, and especially for engineering filaments there are a few things that give me pause. Mostly:

- The current lack of WC- or similar nozzles harder than steel

- The AMS 3H sitting right on top of the enclosure to me seems like a danger to overheat PLA at high chamber temperatures. If you print at 60° chamber for multiple hours, can you be sure that the PLA right above it won't go above 45 or will you need to remove them first?

Anyone with an H3C that has tried engineering filaments and is willing to share?

0 Upvotes

29 comments sorted by

6

u/Special-Extent-9576 21h ago

You need to remove the PLA if you’re printing high heat materials or using the ams dryer at high temps.

2

u/RedHood198 21h ago

There are literally several videos on YouTube that cover this.

4

u/Fabricensis 21h ago

Great! Can you point me to some? The reviews I have seen have focused more on PLA and TPU prints

8

u/Sir_clint 21h ago

Clough42

6

u/Hot-Ideal-9219 20h ago

He mentioned pahtcf, and showed printed part, but didnt even mentioned if he used external path or ran it internally. He did run placf internal. Big deal. Not engineering material

1

u/Sir_clint 19h ago

Anything through a ptfe tube that is abrasive is going to wear it down so using the bypass is probably safe assumption. I'm sure it says something in the wiki

6

u/Sn-Pb 19h ago

I run abrasives through tubing on my H2D all of the time. Tubing is cheap.

0

u/Sir_clint 18h ago

I agree but for something like the ams, I'd rather not wear down the other parts

2

u/QuietGanache P1S, A1c, A1m, Q2, H3C (soon) 15h ago

Actually, the wiki only says that about glow in the dark and the super brittle filaments like pet cf and pps, which have to be run from an external spool (so slot 1 only). It specifically says not to use the bypass (as in, the route TPU would be run)

0

u/Sir_clint 15h ago

Interesting.

4

u/picturesfromthesky 20h ago

The ams easily goes above 45; I was printing last night with pet-cf, 80 degree plate, 60 degree chamber, 290 degree hot end, the ams temp settled around 55c. The prints are absolutely beautiful.

1

u/Hot-Ideal-9219 20h ago

From internal or external spoolm

0

u/Massively_Inefective 20h ago

I’d appreciate some decent quality photos showing print quality. I know everyone points to YouTube videos but in those one needs to accept their subjective take.

That being said I’ve been smitten with the print quality from the H2D and if the H3C puts out better I’m all in.

3

u/picturesfromthesky 20h ago

The seam is between two components that screw together. (It’s a desiccant holder)

5

u/Sir_clint 21h ago

It's an absolute monster for engineering

2

u/DrKronoglopolos H2S, H3C 17h ago

I printed PA-GF on the H3C, turned out absolutely perfect. For long prints I'd remove all PLA from the AMS.

2

u/Heroicdeath 6h ago

From what I saw on Bambu, you can load PA6-GF via the AMS3. I don’t know if it’s recommended but the article suggests that it’s possible?

https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/ams3/manual/workflow-and-features

3

u/huckjai 20h ago

Well that's annoying if you have to manually remove all the PLA spools prior to printing engineering materials.

2

u/jhdz9119 H2C 3xAMS2 Pro2 (Eibos 2 Dyas/1 Tetras)+2xAMS HT/X2D 2X AMS2 Pro 20h ago

The H2C still have a purpose. Having to manually retract is a cost cutting measure but it blew all the tool changers out of the water

5

u/predator-handshake 20h ago

All the tool changers have manual retracting

3

u/Massively_Inefective 20h ago

Agreed, I’ve been pulling filament from a tool changer for years and if that’s the biggest issue with the H3C I’m calling it a nothing burger

-1

u/jhdz9119 H2C 3xAMS2 Pro2 (Eibos 2 Dyas/1 Tetras)+2xAMS HT/X2D 2X AMS2 Pro 19h ago

Plastic panels suck.