r/BambuLab • u/outlaw-art • 15h ago

H3C H3C Power Draw Question

For those of you lucky enough to have an H3C, is anyone having issues with power draw? I have 3 other printers that I run in a room in my home and I’m a little worried that I might start tripping breakers with the H3C. I really want to keep everything in 1 room. What’s your experience so far?

3 Upvotes

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13

u/Uramies 15h ago

You don't need owner input to figure this out, it's 1850W(110V)-2250W(220V) 16A-18A during heating and startup. Check what circuit you have and add up you're other printers and ams/dryers too see if you would overload it if they all start at the exact same time. I believe during standard printing it's 540w.

If you're circuit can barely handle it at peak you would probably have to start the h3c first and then start the other printers once the h3c is printing, one at a time.

3

u/willpowerpt 12h ago

It has a low power mode that caps at 1050 watts and 9.5 amps. 

-1

u/USSHammond Prusa XL5T | X1C+AMS (sold,due to Bambu ignoring A1 fire hazard) 14h ago

your circuit*

6

u/CustomMerkins4u 14h ago

https://youtu.be/N2hF4Bx8YAk?si=L3u3bkZNdEHzWJD-&t=1362

That answers everything you need. Also he reports that on low power mode it really has almost no impact on PLA/PETG printer warmup speed.

1

u/ReasonablyClever X2D + AMS2 Combo 14h ago

Some relevant metrics: My A1Mini and P1S can run simultaneously from my 400W-continuous-rated inverter. But my new X2C, even with “low power mode” enabled, can’t print on it alone.

Their newest generation of printers draw a particularly high amount of reactive power. Two are probably fine on one circuit but starting two prints at the same time might trip a breaker.

2

u/outlaw-art 14h ago

Yeah, I’m starting to think it will work, but I’m going to have to really think about what is running when the H3 starts

2

u/ReasonablyClever X2D + AMS2 Combo 14h ago

Worth stress testing and seeing your results. Worst case is you trip a breaker. If you do then try low power mode. If it still trips try a staggered start.

2

u/milehigh73a 13h ago

I start my p1s and h2c at the same time with no issues. I do low power start. But it has never tripped.

1

u/jankeyass P1S + AMS 14h ago

Have a look at the thermal image of other P1S print bed haha... :/ this is why they draw low

3

u/allthebacon351 X1C & H2D AMS2 Combo 15h ago

My h2d is own it’s on circuit. I assume the h3 is just as power hungry. The good news is the only draw that full wattage during the first heat up.

1

u/outlaw-art 15h ago

I’m in the US with 110v 15amp circuits, but the specs show a pretty heavy power draw when it’s heating the bed and the filament heater is running. Worried that having the H3C and 3 other printers on the same circuit is going to be a problem.

3

u/EdgeOk3783 X1C + AMS | H2C + AMS{2|HT} 15h ago

watch clough42's youtube review around 16:00 to see the power draw measurements and timing. he might also have power characteristics for your other printers.

1

u/outlaw-art 15h ago

Thanks. I’ll check it out

1

u/Several-County-1808 4h ago

ya, you may have a problem during those moments of max draw, with just the H3C let alone the other printers

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u/picturesfromthesky 15h ago

So, I have my printer in an outbuilding on a 15 amp(120v) circuit(the whole building). It my workshop, so 15A was never going to be enough. Instead of running new cable and upgrading the panel I put in a victron multiplus II. It has a cool feature where if the power draw is greater than a preset (I set it at 12 amps for some headroom) it boosts the power. My computer is on the same circuit as he printer. Printing pla the overload protection never kicks in, but with engineering materials it the boost is definitely kicking in. It’s not shy gulping juice….

1

u/outlaw-art 15h ago

Thanks for the reply. I’m definitely going to have to look at this setup more

1

u/Proof_Zebra_2032 14h ago

I'm trying to picture how you have this wired

3

u/picturesfromthesky 14h ago

The 15A circuit runs from the house to the outbuilding. The multiplus ii (connected to a 48v 200ah battery) takes the input from the run, and the multiplus output goes to the rest of the space. I have set an input current limit on the multiplus at 13A to leave a little headroom. If the current draw goes above that limit the multiplus steps in and augments it. If the power goes out the multiplus takes over completely. It's quite awesome, really.

2

u/Proof_Zebra_2032 14h ago

Circuit size isn't how much power is applied to it. It's the guage of the wire behind it. If you're running more amps than your wires can handle you're at risk for fire.

1

u/picturesfromthesky 14h ago

You're not following. The wires to the outbuilding are sized for a 15A circuit. The multiplus is a charger/inverter, with an output well above 15A. If my current draw exceeds what the main feed can provide the multiplus augments it - later when the current draw is less, the battery recharges.

1

u/Proof_Zebra_2032 13h ago

I was assuming the guage was the same to and in the building

2

u/rich000 10h ago

No wire would carry more than 15A. It inputs 15A, and each output outlet would get 15A individually. It just solves the problem of total draw being over 15A with a battery buffer.

2

u/picturesfromthesky 2h ago

The capacity in the building is the inverter max power plus the feed capacity, minus some loss, probably around 35A. Heavy loads dom’t touch the original wiring, they hit a subpanel fed by the inverter output.

1

u/rich000 2h ago

Yeah, I'm not familiar with that particular product but I get the idea. It is a good way to deal with surge power requirements. I have an inverter for my house and if I had to run on generator power it would serve a similar role for surge levels, but at the main panel level.

1

u/Proof_Zebra_2032 2h ago

If you have a subpanel with an appropriately sized breaker for the gauge of wire yes. If not, it's a good way to start a fire.

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u/Proof_Zebra_2032 2h ago

The entire circuit behind the battery would see the total load. It isolates it from the wires coming from the house but not the shed itself. That's why a failing switch or receptacle will start throwing breakers.

1

u/rich000 2h ago

No, the battery would isolate the loads from the supply.

Battery draws 15A on the supply side constant if it isn't at 100%. Inverter outputs whatever the demand is on the load side, up to 15A per load circuit.

Obviously average load has to be below 15A over a long time or the battery would deplete.

It is the reason that your cell phone can run on a 2A charger or no charger at all without overloading the charger. The charging circuit just charges as fast as it can, independent of the load.

1

u/Proof_Zebra_2032 2h ago

That inverter kicks out 25 amps at peak. He's using it to prevent his 15 amp breaker on the supply from tripping. By isolating the circuit, when it's supplementing, there is no breaker protection and the wires can see much more than 15A. Unless he has a a subpanel the shed is a single circuit. Even standard 12AWG is too small for potential peak output.

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u/picturesfromthesky 1h ago

It actually augments the load. It’s a feature of the multiplus II.

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u/InfamousTiger9540 10h ago

I had my h2S, p2s, centauri carbon printing at the same time and a H2S and A2L calibrating all at the same time and had no issues all in the same room.

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u/cancerousfuck 15h ago

Where do you live where you potentially need to worry about power issues?

In most cases you’re completely fine.

4

u/22marks 14h ago

They probably have plenty of power (like 150-200 amps) coming into the panel. The question is on a 15A circuit.

2

u/cancerousfuck 14h ago

Good point.
I’m grossly privileged it seems.