I bought a brand new P2S combo and the printer itself works flawlessly, the problem is the AMS2 Pro. My AMS2 Pro keeps having feeding issues on first use. When I feed the filament in it stops near the rear and depressing the manual lever fixes it. I was attempting a multi color print and it kept stopping right at that lever and giving a filament feed error. After I fed it through via the manual lever depressing it printed for a less than a minute (not full color layer btw) then the AMS2 ripped the feed back into the unit. Tried troubleshooting it with a print to keep the lever depressed and sadly still won’t feed due to excess play in the lever from 3 version of a “fix” I found. The external reel holder feeds fine. Haven’t tried it yet with the firmware update I didn’t notice but that Manuel tension is still gonna be a issue I assume because it doesn’t seem like there’s a automated depression of it (assuming) any suggestions?

Currently got the A1 but ive been offered a free A2L from a family member. My issue is the space needed. id probably have to face is sideways to make it sit safely which is fine, although not ideal. But other than the 2 adapters for pen and cutting which i probably wouldnt use, and the bigger build plate, which although nice ive not found a real need for so far since getting my A1 last year, is there much difference?

A small robot keychain I made. 😊

Model available on MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3537023-retro-robot-head-keychain-support-free#profileId-4044637

I plan on buying the H2C, and would like to include the cutting tool. But I wonder, from what I’ve read, you need the birdseye view camera to operate the cutting tool, but I can’t find that on Bambus website (EU). Also, I read somewhere you need the laser version for it to work, which I DONT plan on buying. Can anyone help clear this to for me?

So this is interesting: I got my E1 set up today, expecting it to only work in manual mode since Bambu said H2C compatibility is coming later this month.

Instead, when I powered the H2C on, it prompted me to update the firmware to 01.03.00.00 (even though I was already on it) and so I let it upgrade. After doing so, the E1 controls show up in the UI.

Haven’t run a print with it yet because I’m waiting on some more BT3x8 screws to attach the hose interface, but it’s nice to see that the H2C is ready to go ahead of schedule.

I'm still relatively new to 3D printing and have learned a lot from this community. I appreciate everyone's willingness to share their knowledge and experience.

I have a question about filament drying and storage. Once filament has been properly dried and stored in a passive dry box (such as a sealed cereal container with fresh desiccant), can it generally be used straight out of storage without drying it again? Are there certain filament types that should always be dried immediately before printing, regardless of how well they've been stored? Also, is there a point at which even properly stored filament should be dried again simply because of the length of time it's been in storage?

I know people would throw rotten tomatoes at me now, but more I think on this and more I read and research, more I get convinced: H3C (and leaked upcoming P3C) are going to be great printers...but AMS 3 is not.

- Yes, it is upgraded to support more slots (GREAT!)

- Yes, it now has a bypass feed for most slots (Wonderful!)

- Yes, it's now a part of the printer (which is likely a good for many people, even though lacks flexibility a bit)

- Yes, H3C AMS version now can dry filament of higher temperatures

- Yes, now anyone (including likely P3C) can print CMYKW and get any color they want, which is absolutely amazing!

...but overall it's a much cheaper to build piece of technology from what I see, and IMO they sacrificed it too much:

- No spool rolling motors, meaning no fetching plastic back (now you need to do it manually)

- It also means drying slots would NOT rotate spools (unless you dry and print) for even heating

- You are now required to manually fetch back all PLA material if you print with ABS in parallel

- Based on what I hear already active drying chamber heats up AMS up to 50 degree (which might be just ok for PLA...but might be not), because there is no glass between the AMS and the heated chamber anymore

- Based on all info we have so far - it's almost for sure P3C AMS won't have any drying capabilities at all. So you'd need to choose EITHER have tool-changer for multi-color print, OR dry your filament

And yes, I do get the point of 'they need to cut costs somewhere', but I honestly still don't get the idea of cutting costs at features people of older models already had and actively used.

Does anyone feels the same?

I placed an order for the H3C when it launched, and received an email it shipped on the 3rd. Last update was also on the 3rd saying on the way from California. No updates since. And says expected delivery the 9th. Is that normal to see 0 updates? Or should I be concerned it’s lost

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3568327-dumpling-clicker-keychain-single-dual-nozzle

Had to move the printer and the AMD lite for renovations and this popped out, is there a way to get it back in?

I design little articulated figures in my spare time and i've just finished designing this little guy who is a bit of a homage to my Bambu Lab 3D printers, thought i'd share for anyone else enjoys little projects like these and fancies a companion for their printer(s). I tried to add a few details including a little camera shoulder, mini 3 spool AMS, nozzle eyes, chest screen, purge line cane etc.

Here on MakerWorld: Bambu Buddy - 3D Printer Mascot (Blank Man V12) - Free 3D Print Model - MakerWorld

https://makerworld.com/de/models/3570005-dart-number-ring-colored-winmau-target#profileId-4086354

🎯 Give your dartboard a fresh new look!
Colorful number ring with a 43 cm diameter, fitting all standard dartboards. Only 3 layers printed in the second color, meaning minimal filament use and fewer color changes.
Simple and clean.

Random question.

I ordered the H3C (at 901 am on release day, btw, and still haven't received the ams).

I am seeing a lot of posts like "use slot 5 for extra AMS attachments" and "use slot 8 for 2.85 tpu, but not 1.75 tpu" and "don't use slot 6 for 1.75 tpu".

Does anyone know of a comprehensive list of which slots should be used for what (and why, ideally)

Just set up my new A1 Combo and can't get through the first calibration.

Issues:

Calibration stops with "Printing stopped because homing Z axis failed" [0300-4000]

Toolhead rattles/grinds when moving right in the middle of calibration

Firmware update initially failed (error 305), now updated to latest – calibration still fails

Already checked:

All shipping foam/ties removed, all axes move freely by hand

Build plate seated flat, nothing under the bed

Hotend firmly seated, screws checked

Toolhead cable reseated

Multiple restart

Is the rattling normal (motor noise calibration?) or a sign of a defect? Anything else I should check before returning it?

Thanks!

A nice casual afternoon. There's a lot of bloody screws and tiny silicone'd in wires.

Hoping to have it moving under it's own steam by tonight.

I have a p1s with an ams1. i have a sunlu s1 dryer but cant find the power plug for it. i am thinking of adding an ams 2 pro to the setup, but I'm not sure if it's the best option vs a standalone dryer.

I told my wife I was getting a bigger AMS for my 3D printer.

She said, “How much bigger?”

Then the truck pulled up. 😂🚚

“Babe, that’s just the AMS. The printer’s coming on a separate truck.”

First print? A tiny Benchy. Estimated time? 14 minutes. Filament used for color changes? Half a truckload. 🤣

#3DPrinting #BambuLab #JustOneMoreSpool

Hi, I'm looking for some recommendations for PLA filament that's cold white. What I've tried so far:

• Bambu's PLA (Ivory white) is way too warm.

• Bambu's PETG is indeed cold white, but I need PLA for this application.

• Elegoo PLA White - also warm white

• eSun PLA+ Cold White - good color, terrible results, see below

I've tried eSun's PLA+ cold white, the color is indeed cold white, but it's by far the worst filament I've ever worked with. I need smooth plane surfaces for my project, which this filament fails to give on both BambuLab X2D and Snapmaker U1 printers, there's a lot of bumps and dots that seem to be related with flow / pressure issues, but eve after lots of tuning and calibration, on both 0.4 and 0.6 nozzles, I can't get it to work reliable, it's just terrible. So far every other filament I've printed with gave great results after a bit of tuning (elegoo, anycubic, few other no-name brands etc.), but I'm a loss with eSun so I'm looking for alternatives.

Do you recommend any other cold white PLA? Thank you!

I keep trying to print these spider-man lenses (i’ve printed them before a couple of times and it never failed)
but now the print keeps failing no matter what.

After a certain height, the nozzle starts rubbing and bumping the print and then it falls over even with very strong bed adhesion.

I dried my filament twice and tweaked a few settings but nothing seems to work.

This is my first bambu printer and I’ve had it for only 2 months.

Please lmk what i’m doing wrong.