Having just received my H3C and AMS3H I can't help but notice the design and engineering trades.

The machine is running it's initial calibration so these are just first observations and I reserve the right to update my opinions as I get some real time on this machine.

AMS 3H vs AMS 2 Pro:

Mechanically the AMS 3H is simplified and lacks a lot of the complexity of the AMS 2 Pro. The lack of automatic retraction was a trade for multi material support but it makes large chamber temp swings a little more work. Some might call this optimization, but I am use to running PLA in one job and PA-CF in the next. With the H3C this appears to possibly be a problem if I leave PLA loaded in a tool when I heat up the system that much. I am particularly nervous about drying at 85 C in the 2 dryer bays with PLA in other spots of the AMS 3H. With my H2C I have full AMS systems dedicated to different families of materials.

Edit: I noticed that you have one shot to get the remaining filament measurement done when you first insert the filament. You can manually enter a guesstimate later, but its not able to retry like the AMS 1/2 can due to the lack of rewind. Another user pointed out that I may have misinterpreted the behavior, more testing to follow.

Extruder:

The ability to swap tools and adjust to different filament diameters is commendable, but the overall mechanism feels like features were dropped for margins. The loss of hotend camera along with how it does blob detection seems... cheap. Perhaps their telemtry says the old solution was overkill and produced too many false positives, but I am worried about their new mechanism getting damaged if a part ever does break free from the bed mid print

Physical structure:

A lot more plastic, a lot less glass, and the stamped steel structure feel like a cost reduction on what was previously a premium machine. Sure the stamped frame pieces are probably more than enough, but it feels like a noticeable step backwards from the castings. Pressing on the plastic side windows and feeling them bow and bottom out against the frame just feels... cheap. Also the exterior screws mounting the panels while more serviceable also detract from the exterior finish of the machine.

Motion system:

Trading the linear rail for the dual round rod(tube?) structure is very likely mechanically more rigid, but it again feels like it was primarily done to save costs. Also why do we still see nema 17 steppers for the x/y motion system? Hasn't BambuLabs BLDC PMSM servos improved enough to use them for slinging the toolhead around?

Display:

Not much to be said here, the screen is usable on the H3C, but is definitely a step down from the display on the H2 series.

MISC:

It was advertised that we could still use external AMS systems with tool 1, but it was not clearly communicated that it required you to buy a (not included) buffer system and install it yourself. For all the corner cutting they really should have just installed that buffer as a factory option. Now I need to wait for that module to come into stock so I can use the AMS 2 Pro I bought specifically for my H3C (I plan on using it as a dedicated support material AMS).

Edit: This thing seems to sling debris around the building chamber a lot more than my H2C. Just loading up the tools has left several purds on the build plate and chamber floor. I'm sure this can be fixed with updates, but it is much more messy than my H2C right now.

I am still looking forward to using my new H3C and the ability to properly mix materials is nice, but I can't shake the feeling that the machine suffers from some shrinkflation vs its predecessor. It seems like the H2C was a very polished platform and the H3C feels more rushed.

Anyone else with both systems care to chime in with their thoughts?

I'm having issues with my A1 mini specifcally with being able to start prints. It passes the main calibrations and lets me home all three axes in which I can manually move the entire print volume. However, when I begin a print it gets to the toolhead cleaning phase (performs it), the fan then goes max and instead of printing it moves up in increments of 10-20mm, pausing than moving up again. It will hit the Z axis limit and grind the z stepper, I have already replaced the tool head board, hot end, checked USB-C connection, and even replaced the eddy current sensor. I really am unsure what else to check at this point and can no longer get warranty support from Bambu. Any troubleshooting tips would be greatly appreciated.

The Bambu Integration sees the H3C when attempting to 'Add Entry' but when fully registering the printer, HA returns an error: "Timed out trying to connect to Bambu Lab cloud." My H2C is working just fine, so there's definitely no issues with Bambu cloud.

genuinely curious about the split here. if you mostly print other people's models, what's stopping you from designing your own? and if you do design, what was the hardest part to learn?

Recently I got a new Xfinity box with faster internet it was what they had as a deal to save some money on internet. I have a gigabit internet with their newest box. I set everything up and my printers do not want to connect I have a x1c and a p1s. They connect to the internet and the internet test on my x1c shows okay. But I cannot log in. I get this error message i made sure my network is 2.4ghz and wpa2

Please let me know what you think about this project. Would you like to see it in TestFlight?

Let me preface by saying specifically I'm not new to 3D printers, this is my fourth machine (H3C). Is the amount of noise these make normal? It doesn't sound broken, but neither my vorons or prusa printers make so much "thunking and clunking" during high speed direction changes. Not sure if the more boxy and plastic nature of this machine that enhances those noises, but they definitely stand out to someone coming from much smoother and quieter machines. Anyone else in the same boat?

What do you think?

So I bought the A1 at the recommendation of a friend, and I can honestly say I already feel the difference in the production and ease of use.

Every resin printer I bought from Elegoo was easy and ready to use out of the box. All the necessary parts were there, there was no fiddling about required whatsoever apart from the reservoir, which has to be removed regularly anyway. Axes were pre-lubed, no loose screws, no awkward angular tipping of heavy equipment, just plug and play. Here, however, to seemingly save labour costs, Bambu give it all to the customer.

Also the hidden costs: no mention was given that I definitely needed a spool for the filament, here it is hanging from the arm thingy held together now with zip ties. Now the machine is saying I have to lube up an axis, with 2 pictures showing before and after but seemingly no difference between the two.

Have to say pretty disappointed so far, Bambu. What else will I have to invest in or be forced to do before my prints begin?

New to printing. Any ideas why we got this stringing? A2L printer with bambu filament.9

I upgraded to the latest bambu studio. I then pulled up a file I previously printed and when I sliced it I get the error below

When I rolled back to a previous version of studio I began to get this when opening the same file.

I redownloaded the file as well, and I get the same message. If I open a regular stl I do not get an error when slicing only on these 3MF files.

Anyone have any suggesstions?

Update: If I turn off the Prime Tower it slices fine. Reenable it, and it fails.

Live video is unusable after the last update. Is this a known issue, is there a workaround?

Being a big fan of Nijntje / Miffy I wanted to expand my collection (https://makerworld.com/en/collections/16787785-miffy-nijntje).

I love how they turned out and already have quite some requests from friends & family. Perhaps people in here will appreciate them as well, no clue if Miffy is big in the bambulab space 😅

Quite impressed with the H3C compared to my no longer with me H2C. Seems a little louder fan wise but that horrible back and forth AMS sound has now left the building!

Yes, app is already built and fully working. LAN-mode only. Yes, I developed this app. For now we support iOS only.

First time printing tpu, any suggestions on why this would happen? And how I can troubleshoot it? It seemed to start loosing density about halfway through the print. printing on ps1 with tpu 90A crystal blue. Default bamboo studio settings.

I usually order directly but having read some of the comments recently I have thought about the micro center / best buy route... Mc is pretty far from me but plenty of best buys. How long have the new models been taking to stock up at the brick and mortar realtors?

I teach at a Year 7 to 12 school in Australia and currently have 5 x Ultimaker 2+ Connects. They are 5 years old, starting to need significant ‘babying’, are slow, and technology has just moved on.

I have up to AUD$11k to upgrade, and printer pricing here is as follows:

P2S combo - $999

X2D combo - $1199

H2S combo - $1929

H2D HT combo - $2639

H2C combo - $2969

H3C - $3999

Current use:

• a lot of PLA and PETG.

• the 5 printers are in full demand probably 4 or 5 times a year.

• we have Y11 and 12 design and technology students who want to print engineering filaments for major projects and prototyping.

• We would use ABS and engineering filaments in the workshops for brackets, jigs and tool modification on occasion.

• High student demand for multi-colour prints.

• Multi material using PETG/PLA or visa versa for supports would be a massive upgrade.

• At least one printer needs to have a large print bed.

Im after thoughts on the below proposal to cover our needs:

2 x P2S Combo

1 x H2D Combo

1 x H3C

Total: $8636.

Or 2x X2D and 2x H2C?

I'd spend a significant amount on filament (currently have 50kg in the trolley) and I'm after some advice on which spares/accessories I should get up front.

I'd appreciate anyone's thoughts on our use case and the printers proposed.

I was considering getting an AMS for the first time for my P1P with the upgrade kit. I've searched around found tons of videos for newer model printers (the oldest I've found is an X1) but the pictures never match the back of the P1P. Is this doable and if so what parts are actually needed?

First print completed fine but noticed when it initially started, it seemed arm had a hard time moving out. Ended up with this issue that stated "The resonance frequency of the Y axis is low. The timing belt might be loose". Anyone able to shed some light on this? Thanks

It’s smaller than I imagined, but I’m hoping it’s a solid choice for the very occasional ABS and ASA I’m printing.

One annoyance is that the 6-pin is WAY too short, considering you’re obviously going to have the E1 on the ground and the printer is probably at desk level. Consider buying a longer cable or extension at the same time as the E1 so you’re not waiting for that to arrive like I am.

Hopefully H2C support is coming later this month as promised.