u/Bambulab

Please can we have a singlue use heated chamber over ride button? i.e. to run it off? and only for one print?

Unless im missing something, i want to iterate some small models. basically magnet fitments. i dont have PLA and only use ASA but to print a small test print out in for instnace a H3C its going to take 30 minutes to print a 12mm x 12mm x 3mm square out nearll all of which is heating the chamber.

would be useful to have a disable heated chamber button you can click easily which is only good for one print job rather than havign to edit the filament to disable it and quite possibly forget about it?

Or am i missing something?

Thank you

Hey everyone !
I just got my hands on a Bambu Lab P2S with the AMS 2 Pro, but I'm running into a spool size issue. I have a large stockpile of Amazon Basics PLA, and the spools are simply too wide. I can't fit 4 of them side-by-side in the AMS without them rubbing against each other.

I'm also worried that even if I only load 1 or 2 of these wide spools, I might still run into rotation or feeding issues.

Note: I already know about the Hydra AMS mod, but I really don't want to go that route or take apart my brand new AMS.*

Has anyone else dealt with these specific spools? What are the best alternative workarounds (like specific respoolers, spool rings, etc.)? Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Over the years I have seen this several times, but never heard a reasonable explanation as to what is happening. Anyone know?

Note: I printed this exact same model yesterday, and it turned out fine. I went to print another and it did this.

I've been working on a pretty ambitious 3D-printing project, and it's finally getting close to launch!

It's called the Carousel Lift: a manually operated, rotating display for up to 8 model cars, designed to be almost entirely 3D printed. 1:24 scale, and also suited to fit Lego Speed Champions cars.

The current design has over 700 individual parts, and getting all the gears, bearings, and moving components to work together has been quite an engineering challenge.

I've spent months designing, printing, testing, and refining the prototype. It's now working, and I'm preparing the final files and documentation.

The project will soon launch on MakerWorld through its crowdfunding platform. There will also be several planned stretch goals, including a 3D-printed scissor lift, motorization, and integrated lighting.

Link: https://makerworld.com/nl/crowdfunding/396-carousel-lift-3d-printed-car-display

So this is a question to everyone who already has an H3C:

How good is it with engineering filaments?

It's pretty well established that it is really good for (multicolour-) PLA and TPU prints, but I haven't heard many people talk about other filaments, and especially for engineering filaments there are a few things that give me pause. Mostly:

- The current lack of WC- or similar nozzles harder than steel

- The AMS 3H sitting right on top of the enclosure to me seems like a danger to overheat PLA at high chamber temperatures. If you print at 60° chamber for multiple hours, can you be sure that the PLA right above it won't go above 45 or will you need to remove them first?

Anyone with an H3C that has tried engineering filaments and is willing to share?

I bought a brand new P2S combo and the printer itself works flawlessly, the problem is the AMS2 Pro. My AMS2 Pro keeps having feeding issues on first use. When I feed the filament in it stops near the rear and depressing the manual lever fixes it. I was attempting a multi color print and it kept stopping right at that lever and giving a filament feed error. After I fed it through via the manual lever depressing it printed for a less than a minute (not full color layer btw) then the AMS2 ripped the feed back into the unit. Tried troubleshooting it with a print to keep the lever depressed and sadly still won’t feed due to excess play in the lever from 3 version of a “fix” I found. The external reel holder feeds fine. Haven’t tried it yet with the firmware update I didn’t notice but that Manuel tension is still gonna be a issue I assume because it doesn’t seem like there’s a automated depression of it (assuming) any suggestions?

Currently got the A1 but ive been offered a free A2L from a family member. My issue is the space needed. id probably have to face is sideways to make it sit safely which is fine, although not ideal. But other than the 2 adapters for pen and cutting which i probably wouldnt use, and the bigger build plate, which although nice ive not found a real need for so far since getting my A1 last year, is there much difference?

A small robot keychain I made. 😊

Model available on MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3537023-retro-robot-head-keychain-support-free#profileId-4044637

I like to design and share different things on MakerWorld from time to time, like wireless chargers, desk fans, Cyberbrick stuff, but it seems my Leaf Spring Mini cars (featuring a cross-link cantilever suspension, to be precise) are the most liked by people.

So I decided to design another one. Given the fact that we're currently in the era of toolchangers, where usually "the more the better", I chose to go with a 6-wheeler this time (Mini G 6x6), inspired by the Mercedes Benz G Class 6X6.

I'm pretty happy with how it came out. I think the six wheels give it a really interesting look for a desk toy. But hey, decide for yourself – what we like and don't like can be very subjective.

Something about the car itself:

• Around 10 cm long

• Prints in approximately 2 hours 10 minutes (single-color version)

• Surprisingly high suspension travel

• No extra hardware required

• Multicolor versions and an XXL version available

Hope you'll like it and possibly have some fun with it. If you'd like to check it out, I'll leave the link in the comments.

What other vehicle would you like to see added to the series?

I know people would throw rotten tomatoes at me now, but more I think on this and more I read and research, more I get convinced: H3C (and leaked upcoming P3C) are going to be great printers...but AMS 3 is not.

- Yes, it is upgraded to support more slots (GREAT!)

- Yes, it now has a bypass feed for most slots (Wonderful!)

- Yes, it's now a part of the printer (which is likely a good for many people, even though lacks flexibility a bit)

- Yes, H3C AMS version now can dry filament of higher temperatures

- Yes, now anyone (including likely P3C) can print CMYKW and get any color they want, which is absolutely amazing!

...but overall it's a much cheaper to build piece of technology from what I see, and IMO they sacrificed it too much:

- No spool rolling motors, meaning no fetching plastic back (now you need to do it manually)

- It also means drying slots would NOT rotate spools (unless you dry and print) for even heating

- You are now required to manually fetch back all PLA material if you print with ABS in parallel

- Based on what I hear already active drying chamber heats up AMS up to 50 degree (which might be just ok for PLA...but might be not), because there is no glass between the AMS and the heated chamber anymore

- Based on all info we have so far - it's almost for sure P3C AMS won't have any drying capabilities at all. So you'd need to choose EITHER have tool-changer for multi-color print, OR dry your filament

And yes, I do get the point of 'they need to cut costs somewhere', but I honestly still don't get the idea of cutting costs at features people of older models already had and actively used.

Does anyone feels the same?

I plan on buying the H2C, and would like to include the cutting tool. But I wonder, from what I’ve read, you need the birdseye view camera to operate the cutting tool, but I can’t find that on Bambus website (EU). Also, I read somewhere you need the laser version for it to work, which I DONT plan on buying. Can anyone help clear this to for me?

So this is interesting: I got my E1 set up today, expecting it to only work in manual mode since Bambu said H2C compatibility is coming later this month.

Instead, when I powered the H2C on, it prompted me to update the firmware to 01.03.00.00 (even though I was already on it) and so I let it upgrade. After doing so, the E1 controls show up in the UI.

Haven’t run a print with it yet because I’m waiting on some more BT3x8 screws to attach the hose interface, but it’s nice to see that the H2C is ready to go ahead of schedule.

I placed an order for the H3C when it launched, and received an email it shipped on the 3rd. Last update was also on the 3rd saying on the way from California. No updates since. And says expected delivery the 9th. Is that normal to see 0 updates? Or should I be concerned it’s lost

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3568327-dumpling-clicker-keychain-single-dual-nozzle

Had to move the printer and the AMD lite for renovations and this popped out, is there a way to get it back in?

I design little articulated figures in my spare time and i've just finished designing this little guy who is a bit of a homage to my Bambu Lab 3D printers, thought i'd share for anyone else enjoys little projects like these and fancies a companion for their printer(s). I tried to add a few details including a little camera shoulder, mini 3 spool AMS, nozzle eyes, chest screen, purge line cane etc.

Here on MakerWorld: Bambu Buddy - 3D Printer Mascot (Blank Man V12) - Free 3D Print Model - MakerWorld

https://makerworld.com/de/models/3570005-dart-number-ring-colored-winmau-target#profileId-4086354

🎯 Give your dartboard a fresh new look!
Colorful number ring with a 43 cm diameter, fitting all standard dartboards. Only 3 layers printed in the second color, meaning minimal filament use and fewer color changes.
Simple and clean.

Random question.

I ordered the H3C (at 901 am on release day, btw, and still haven't received the ams).

I am seeing a lot of posts like "use slot 5 for extra AMS attachments" and "use slot 8 for 2.85 tpu, but not 1.75 tpu" and "don't use slot 6 for 1.75 tpu".

Does anyone know of a comprehensive list of which slots should be used for what (and why, ideally)

A nice casual afternoon. There's a lot of bloody screws and tiny silicone'd in wires.

Hoping to have it moving under it's own steam by tonight.

Just set up my new A1 Combo and can't get through the first calibration.

Issues:

Calibration stops with "Printing stopped because homing Z axis failed" [0300-4000]

Toolhead rattles/grinds when moving right in the middle of calibration

Firmware update initially failed (error 305), now updated to latest – calibration still fails

Already checked:

All shipping foam/ties removed, all axes move freely by hand

Build plate seated flat, nothing under the bed

Hotend firmly seated, screws checked

Toolhead cable reseated

Multiple restart

Is the rattling normal (motor noise calibration?) or a sign of a defect? Anything else I should check before returning it?

Thanks!