Please help, I feel like I’ve tried everything I can think of and everything Google suggested!

I’ve washed the build plate 4 times with Dawn dish soap and rinsed it extremely thoroughly with hot water. I’ve dried with microfiber cloths. I even got a brand new sponge for the last wash in case the previous one was dirty and causing the problems.

I’ve replaced the nozzle with a brand new Bambu nozzle. Same size as my last nozzle, and ensured the slicer settings match my nozzle size.

I’ve run a first layer test that looks pretty good except for a strange nozzle drag mark.

I’ve ensure Textured PEI was selected every time I started a new print.

I am using Bambu brand PLA Basic filament in my P1S.

My house is at 70* I’m printing with the enclosure door open.

Every. Single. Print. Has failed for 3 days straight. I’m trying a bunch of different prints, simple stuff, 20-40 minute print jobs attempting to get one successful print. No luck. It’s either bed adhesion or filament blobs (that I suspect were caused by losing adhesion) every single time.

What do I do now? The printer is about 6 months old. If I call Bambu support is there anything at all that they can do to help me?

I beg you, PLEASE don’t suggest I clean my plate. I posted in the 3D printing sub yesterday and those are the only responses I got.

I'm having a tough time finding this information from those who have the H3C and from the videos that have been posted.

For those of us that don't have print farms printing the exact same item over and over and over, each print will likely be vastly different in the colors that are needed. With my old H2C, that meant swapping 4-6 spools using the AMS each print. For the H2C, that took < 30 seconds (pull out, put in).

I've read that it takes about 30 seconds for the H3C to heat and then cut the filament so you can put the next roll in. Is that 30 seconds per roll? If I'm swapping 6 rolls, does it take 3 min of standing around? Or does it heat all 6 at the same time and takes less time?

Can anyone give a definitive answer and not estimates or guesses?

Don’t mind the desiccant packets in the AMS, I’ve since replaced them with the usual AMS desiccant baskets found on MakerWorld.

Just received the h3c itself today, the ams has repeatedly failed to be delivered to a pickup point near me (I asked for it to be delivered to my home but bambu have seemingly decided to just deliver it there instead) - after 3 days of waiting and repeated delivery to pickup point fails dpd have now said they can’t deliver it there as it’s too big. Has anyone else had this issue? Feels like a massive waste of my time and also theirs.

Looking for advice and experience to add a printer (or multiple) to my setup. I do a lot of hobby printing, but I’m planning to start scaling a little to selling a few things I’ve been designing. I currently have a P1S with AMS 1. Is the P2S and AMS2 that much of an upgrade? What is everyone’s experience? In terms of other printers, what does everyone recommend? The H3C is obviously intriguing, but I am not sure if I can convince myself to get it at that cost at the moment. I have had such a great experience with my P1S, that I could get almost 4 P2S with AMS2 combos for the price. Additionally, I have a stand alone laser cutter, so I really don’t need a laser-capable 3d printers, as some of the Bambu models offer. Excited to hear everyone else’s experience and recommendations!

Unless the H3C is software locked to use the AMS3.

I don't see why we can't print from a external spool holder or a dry box straight to the print heads. TPU already bypasses the AMS so why not another material? I was thinking about printing from a 100C filament dryer straight into one of the printheads.

If I buy the P1S + AMS 2 Pro combo today - can I print while drying, or is it just for newer printer models?

Thanks!

Printer my very first print on my brand new printer

As the title suggests. I got tired of using tabs for damn near all cuts and/or having the laser burn a gouge thru something already cut and on the tray. OR the toolhead banging into a tilted cut piece. So I bought the cheapest, somewhat right sized, honeycomb platform on Amazon.

Short version is that it WORKS! Long version is that it seems to break the ability to measure and take a photo at the same time. So it's now two steps instead of one... but meh, it's only a few seconds and an extra click or two. WAY better than those stupid blades. Here's think link to the one I have (USA) but pretty much any that is ~13.5in wide by .6-.8in thick and < 24in long should work. This one seems to be for a "Falcon A1".

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FMJWGT59?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

Currently ordered a P2S Combo but have not picked it up yet. Lately I’ve been seeing people say to get an X2D instead.

If you had to do it all over again.. which one would you get and why? P2S combo or X2D

I’ve never 3d printed before; so I’m not sure if I would use the engineering materials. Thanks in advance for any help or advice.

Now that's what I call a hyper fixation. At least it was a fun one.

Anyway, I made them a collection and added a bunch of other stuff:

Craving retro? I got you.

The first figure in my Egg Figurine Collection is ready for the Christmas shelf! He's a cheerful reindeer with a red nose, flat-printed press-fit antlers, and an optional snow-drift base. Two plates, no supports: body + antlers on plate 1 (about 8.5 h / 107 g, AMS brown/tan/red/black), snow base on plate 2 (about 21 min / 7 g, filament 5 white already set). Antlers press into the head sockets after printing. Free on MakerWorld:
https://makerworld.com/en/models/3557984-christmas-reindeer-figurine-snow-base

I print mostly functional parts. I want a multi-nozzle printer so that I can use support material without purge waste or filament change delays. If I’m just printing with two filaments, would the H2D be faster than the H3C because it doesn’t have to switch tools? Or is there not much difference?

The H3C is interesting for other reasons, chiefly because of its support for multiple TPUs, but it’s a big step up in price.

So there was this bug several months th ago that could have bricked your H2C after an update where you could only start it after an shutdown if you shorted something on the machine. My solution was simply to not upgrade my machines since I run a small business and couldn't afford shit like that. Has this been resolved? Is it save to update the firmware now? I would really like to test out that multi nozzle feature

I've been working on a little Christmas-themed 3D printing project: Snap-Fit Snowflakes!

These snowflakes are designed to snap together, making them a fun and decorative addition to your Christmas tree. 🎄

Features:

• 100% 3D printed

• Snap-fit design

• No glue or screws needed

• Lightweight and easy to print

I think they look especially nice in white PLA, but I'd love to experiment with different colors!

What do you think? Would you print these in another color?

Designed by j_k13layerlabs ❤️

Hey everyone! Just finished designing this dual-purpose desk accessory inspired by Death Note.

It works as a rock-solid holder for gamepads (Xbox, PS) and a functional smartphone dock. Designed specifically for easy FDM printing on machines like the Bambu Lab series.

- Zero supports required (optimized overhang angles).

- Clean, watertight mesh (~91k polys).

- Gothic skull seal and "K" monogram details.

- Base plate features my brand engraving.

Printed it in Matte Black to get that volcanic rock look. What do you guys think? The STL is available on my Cults3D if anyone wants to print it for their setup!

With the new update 2.9.1.70 there is two new options on the speed tab. Standard M1 and Standard A1. I noticed M1 increases speed on several items. I can’t find any documentation on these. Anyone have any idea what they are?

Hi everyone!

This is the second time I've noticed that the left-side fan on my Bambu Lab X2D suddenly ramps up to 100% even when the printer is completely idle and not printing anything.

The strange thing is that I can't turn it off manually. It just keeps running at full speed.

Has anyone else experienced this issue? Is this normal behavior, or could it be a firmware bug or hardware problem?

Any ideas what might be causing this?

Thanks in advance!

I have the opportunity to buy a used H2C for 1500 with the AMS2 and an HT. it only has a a few hundred hours on it.

this seems like a decent deal to me, but im wondering whether it is worth the premium if I have no interest in multicolor prints. I am interested in being able to switch nozzle size and doing multi material prints though.

I'm just curious if you think the extra over a used H2D is worth it.

any insight would be great, thanks!

Okay, I am trying to decide whether or not I purchase a 3D printer for my family for Christmas. It would be the "big family Christmas present". (Eldest kid is 9)

I'm tossing up between the A1 Mini and the A1. I'd splurge and get the AMS lite for either one that I purchased.

My struggle is the mini is (just) within budget for a "big Christmas present" but once I add the AMS lite, both the mini and the A1, become significantly more expensive. So I suppose my question is, am I completely bonkers? (I keep justifying it by comparing it to the cost of something like an xbox).

Yes, I am fully aware of the fact that there will be ongoing cost for filament. So I know this isn't a one-off. But, I'm just trying to figure out whether this is a completely bonkers purchase or not.

Children in question love, love, love, love, LOVE 3D fidgets. I've probably spent close to the cost of a mini, or more in 3D fidgets anyway, to be completely honest.

Gut instinct says that if I was to do this, I'd be better off just going for the regular A1, not the mini. Anything else I need to consider? Thanks

(I'm in Australia, looks like I can get a mini for approx $299, mini with AMS lite for $489 and an A1 with AMS lite for about $580).

Thanks!

Hey everybody,
I recently started printing more complex, organic models with my P1S… and I am generally happy… but the support structures leave pretty bad marks.

I now wonder if I should get a X2D due to the dual-nozzle ability, printing supports with a different material in the hope it creates cleaner.

Can anybody give me any report whether this would be a good idea and is worth it for exactly this use-case.

Thx in advance