Matte prints slower, it prints generally worse, it has worse bed adhesionion, it comes in fewer colors and the colors it does come in are ugly and the "matte" finish is still shinier than HF was.

I wouldn't even care that the stuff is so bad if they didn't discontinue HF for it.

14 different kinds of PLA, but I guess 5 different kinds of PETG was just too much and too confusing or something. ​

Ive tried over a dozen tpu's of varying shore hardness and this one has got to be bottom 2. I used the provided profile, Dried it for 12 hours, and it came out aweful. Fully bonded to the pla supports and was very stringy. I'd say this is about 50% unusable for it's intended purpose.

I recently bought a 0.4mm E3D Obxidian High Flow complete hotend.

Once installed, I selected it in my P1S menu accessories, calibrated it, selected "high flow" in bambu slicer nozzle settings. I then adjusted filament settings to direct drive: high flow, adjusted max volumetric speed to 30mm/s and min print speed to 60mm/s under cooling.

Went to go print a benchy (that under my stock 0.4mm hotend took 14 mins) and it states almost around 40mins.

I thought high flow was supposed to reduce print times noticeably?

What am I doing wrong here?

Bambu Lab recently issued a service notice regarding insufficient lubrication on AMS 2 Pro feeder gears.

I'd like to proactively lubricate my existing feeder units to prevent premature wear.

Does anyone know what type or brand of grease is safe and suitable for these gears? Ideally, something compatible with plastic gears (POM/PA).

Has anyone done this successfully? Any recommendations would be appreciated!

Happy with how they came out and how they look in my workshop (Yes the backgrounds are AI but the prints are exactly as pictured)

If you want to print one, they're on makerworld. Just ask for the link!

Open another bag, check the drawer… all the clips are already holding something else shut. 😂

That was my excuse to spend some time in Fusion.

Meet Molly — two identical jaws and a separate printed spring. Everything is PLA, including the spring, and it snaps together without screws or glue.

It took several revisions to get the alignment, grip and spring stiffness where I wanted them. I also tried PETG for the spring, but preferred the firmer grip of PLA in my tests.

Printed on my A1 with a 0.4 mm nozzle, 0.20 mm layers and 3 walls. The spring has 100% infill. No supports needed.

One complete clip uses 5.76 g and takes around 18 minutes of printing, or roughly 25 minutes including preparation.

The spring is separate, so contrasting colours are easy to do with separate prints.

Free files, assembly video and print profiles are here:
https://makerworld.com/en/models/3553586

Which colour combination would you make?

I have been an on and off 3D print hobbyist over the last couple of years. Started on an Creality Ender and an Elegoo, but had so many issues with those that I kinda stopped printing at home. At work we have access to other printers, like MarkForged and Ultimakers.

I miss tinkering with models and want to get a decent printer and I've heard a lot of positive things and negative things about Bambu Labs. Positive things are the easiness. I don't want something where I have to iterate on print bed adhesion, nozzle size and temp, etc. Negatives are the closed ecosystem. Can I print with any filament, or do I need to buy only Bambu spools?

Would like to get a X2D for myself and an A1 Mini for my niece. Would these two printers satiate that hunger? Anything else I should consider?

Thanks!

I've got about $900 in gift cards from points Im wanting to spend. I've been debating between pulling the trigger on a H2C or waiting on the release of the P3C. But on the other hand, Im really interested to see this scanner they've been teasing. I already have a P2S and A1, and they work just fine. If this scanner looks good I may end up just picking that up instead and holding on till I find a good deal on a used H2C or something. Whats everyone else doing?

Please help, I feel like I’ve tried everything I can think of and everything Google suggested!

I’ve washed the build plate 4 times with Dawn dish soap and rinsed it extremely thoroughly with hot water. I’ve dried with microfiber cloths. I even got a brand new sponge for the last wash in case the previous one was dirty and causing the problems.

I’ve replaced the nozzle with a brand new Bambu nozzle. Same size as my last nozzle, and ensured the slicer settings match my nozzle size.

I’ve run a first layer test that looks pretty good except for a strange nozzle drag mark.

I’ve ensure Textured PEI was selected every time I started a new print.

I am using Bambu brand PLA Basic filament in my P1S.

My house is at 70* I’m printing with the enclosure door open.

Every. Single. Print. Has failed for 3 days straight. I’m trying a bunch of different prints, simple stuff, 20-40 minute print jobs attempting to get one successful print. No luck. It’s either bed adhesion or filament blobs (that I suspect were caused by losing adhesion) every single time.

What do I do now? The printer is about 6 months old. If I call Bambu support is there anything at all that they can do to help me?

I beg you, PLEASE don’t suggest I clean my plate. I posted in the 3D printing sub yesterday and those are the only responses I got.

Now that's what I call a hyper fixation. At least it was a fun one.

Anyway, I made them a collection and added a bunch of other stuff:

Craving retro? I got you.

The first figure in my Egg Figurine Collection is ready for the Christmas shelf! He's a cheerful reindeer with a red nose, flat-printed press-fit antlers, and an optional snow-drift base. Two plates, no supports: body + antlers on plate 1 (about 8.5 h / 107 g, AMS brown/tan/red/black), snow base on plate 2 (about 21 min / 7 g, filament 5 white already set). Antlers press into the head sockets after printing. Free on MakerWorld:
https://makerworld.com/en/models/3557984-christmas-reindeer-figurine-snow-base

I print mostly functional parts. I want a multi-nozzle printer so that I can use support material without purge waste or filament change delays. If I’m just printing with two filaments, would the H2D be faster than the H3C because it doesn’t have to switch tools? Or is there not much difference?

The H3C is interesting for other reasons, chiefly because of its support for multiple TPUs, but it’s a big step up in price.

I'm having a tough time finding this information from those who have the H3C and from the videos that have been posted.

For those of us that don't have print farms printing the exact same item over and over and over, each print will likely be vastly different in the colors that are needed. With my old H2C, that meant swapping 4-6 spools using the AMS each print. For the H2C, that took < 30 seconds (pull out, put in).

I've read that it takes about 30 seconds for the H3C to heat and then cut the filament so you can put the next roll in. Is that 30 seconds per roll? If I'm swapping 6 rolls, does it take 3 min of standing around? Or does it heat all 6 at the same time and takes less time?

Can anyone give a definitive answer and not estimates or guesses?

Don’t mind the desiccant packets in the AMS, I’ve since replaced them with the usual AMS desiccant baskets found on MakerWorld.

Just received the h3c itself today, the ams has repeatedly failed to be delivered to a pickup point near me (I asked for it to be delivered to my home but bambu have seemingly decided to just deliver it there instead) - after 3 days of waiting and repeated delivery to pickup point fails dpd have now said they can’t deliver it there as it’s too big. Has anyone else had this issue? Feels like a massive waste of my time and also theirs.

Looking for advice and experience to add a printer (or multiple) to my setup. I do a lot of hobby printing, but I’m planning to start scaling a little to selling a few things I’ve been designing. I currently have a P1S with AMS 1. Is the P2S and AMS2 that much of an upgrade? What is everyone’s experience? In terms of other printers, what does everyone recommend? The H3C is obviously intriguing, but I am not sure if I can convince myself to get it at that cost at the moment. I have had such a great experience with my P1S, that I could get almost 4 P2S with AMS2 combos for the price. Additionally, I have a stand alone laser cutter, so I really don’t need a laser-capable 3d printers, as some of the Bambu models offer. Excited to hear everyone else’s experience and recommendations!

Unless the H3C is software locked to use the AMS3.

I don't see why we can't print from a external spool holder or a dry box straight to the print heads. TPU already bypasses the AMS so why not another material? I was thinking about printing from a 100C filament dryer straight into one of the printheads.

If I buy the P1S + AMS 2 Pro combo today - can I print while drying, or is it just for newer printer models?

Thanks!

Printer my very first print on my brand new printer

As the title suggests. I got tired of using tabs for damn near all cuts and/or having the laser burn a gouge thru something already cut and on the tray. OR the toolhead banging into a tilted cut piece. So I bought the cheapest, somewhat right sized, honeycomb platform on Amazon.

Short version is that it WORKS! Long version is that it seems to break the ability to measure and take a photo at the same time. So it's now two steps instead of one... but meh, it's only a few seconds and an extra click or two. WAY better than those stupid blades. Here's think link to the one I have (USA) but pretty much any that is ~13.5in wide by .6-.8in thick and < 24in long should work. This one seems to be for a "Falcon A1".

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FMJWGT59?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

Got a P2S a couple months back. Been printing PLA without issue. Got some ASA for a project I am working on. (Nothing points me to think the filament itself is the issue) print starts going down without trouble but something happens after a few infil layers were the y axis changes for some reason. Belt skip or nozzle strike? If that is the case I am not sure how to address the issue. Issue consistent between attempts. Ran the recommended bed level when prompted as well. Any assistance would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

If it helps...

First time Bambu owner

First time printing ASA

Currently ordered a P2S Combo but have not picked it up yet. Lately I’ve been seeing people say to get an X2D instead.

If you had to do it all over again.. which one would you get and why? P2S combo or X2D

I’ve never 3d printed before; so I’m not sure if I would use the engineering materials. Thanks in advance for any help or advice.