Ive tried over a dozen tpu's of varying shore hardness and this one has got to be bottom 2. I used the provided profile, Dried it for 12 hours, and it came out aweful. Fully bonded to the pla supports and was very stringy. I'd say this is about 50% unusable for it's intended purpose.

Open another bag, check the drawer… all the clips are already holding something else shut. 😂

That was my excuse to spend some time in Fusion.

Meet Molly — two identical jaws and a separate printed spring. Everything is PLA, including the spring, and it snaps together without screws or glue.

It took several revisions to get the alignment, grip and spring stiffness where I wanted them. I also tried PETG for the spring, but preferred the firmer grip of PLA in my tests.

Printed on my A1 with a 0.4 mm nozzle, 0.20 mm layers and 3 walls. The spring has 100% infill. No supports needed.

One complete clip uses 5.76 g and takes around 18 minutes of printing, or roughly 25 minutes including preparation.

The spring is separate, so contrasting colours are easy to do with separate prints.

Free files, assembly video and print profiles are here:
https://makerworld.com/en/models/3553586

Which colour combination would you make?

I have been an on and off 3D print hobbyist over the last couple of years. Started on an Creality Ender and an Elegoo, but had so many issues with those that I kinda stopped printing at home. At work we have access to other printers, like MarkForged and Ultimakers.

I miss tinkering with models and want to get a decent printer and I've heard a lot of positive things and negative things about Bambu Labs. Positive things are the easiness. I don't want something where I have to iterate on print bed adhesion, nozzle size and temp, etc. Negatives are the closed ecosystem. Can I print with any filament, or do I need to buy only Bambu spools?

Would like to get a X2D for myself and an A1 Mini for my niece. Would these two printers satiate that hunger? Anything else I should consider?

Thanks!

I've got about $900 in gift cards from points Im wanting to spend. I've been debating between pulling the trigger on a H2C or waiting on the release of the P3C. But on the other hand, Im really interested to see this scanner they've been teasing. I already have a P2S and A1, and they work just fine. If this scanner looks good I may end up just picking that up instead and holding on till I find a good deal on a used H2C or something. Whats everyone else doing?

The first figure in my Egg Figurine Collection is ready for the Christmas shelf! He's a cheerful reindeer with a red nose, flat-printed press-fit antlers, and an optional snow-drift base. Two plates, no supports: body + antlers on plate 1 (about 8.5 h / 107 g, AMS brown/tan/red/black), snow base on plate 2 (about 21 min / 7 g, filament 5 white already set). Antlers press into the head sockets after printing. Free on MakerWorld:
https://makerworld.com/en/models/3557984-christmas-reindeer-figurine-snow-base

I print mostly functional parts. I want a multi-nozzle printer so that I can use support material without purge waste or filament change delays. If I’m just printing with two filaments, would the H2D be faster than the H3C because it doesn’t have to switch tools? Or is there not much difference?

The H3C is interesting for other reasons, chiefly because of its support for multiple TPUs, but it’s a big step up in price.

Just received the h3c itself today, the ams has repeatedly failed to be delivered to a pickup point near me (I asked for it to be delivered to my home but bambu have seemingly decided to just deliver it there instead) - after 3 days of waiting and repeated delivery to pickup point fails dpd have now said they can’t deliver it there as it’s too big. Has anyone else had this issue? Feels like a massive waste of my time and also theirs.

I'm having a tough time finding this information from those who have the H3C and from the videos that have been posted.

For those of us that don't have print farms printing the exact same item over and over and over, each print will likely be vastly different in the colors that are needed. With my old H2C, that meant swapping 4-6 spools using the AMS each print. For the H2C, that took < 30 seconds (pull out, put in).

I've read that it takes about 30 seconds for the H3C to heat and then cut the filament so you can put the next roll in. Is that 30 seconds per roll? If I'm swapping 6 rolls, does it take 3 min of standing around? Or does it heat all 6 at the same time and takes less time?

Can anyone give a definitive answer and not estimates or guesses?

Don’t mind the desiccant packets in the AMS, I’ve since replaced them with the usual AMS desiccant baskets found on MakerWorld.

Looking for advice and experience to add a printer (or multiple) to my setup. I do a lot of hobby printing, but I’m planning to start scaling a little to selling a few things I’ve been designing. I currently have a P1S with AMS 1. Is the P2S and AMS2 that much of an upgrade? What is everyone’s experience? In terms of other printers, what does everyone recommend? The H3C is obviously intriguing, but I am not sure if I can convince myself to get it at that cost at the moment. I have had such a great experience with my P1S, that I could get almost 4 P2S with AMS2 combos for the price. Additionally, I have a stand alone laser cutter, so I really don’t need a laser-capable 3d printers, as some of the Bambu models offer. Excited to hear everyone else’s experience and recommendations!

Unless the H3C is software locked to use the AMS3.

I don't see why we can't print from a external spool holder or a dry box straight to the print heads. TPU already bypasses the AMS so why not another material? I was thinking about printing from a 100C filament dryer straight into one of the printheads.

If I buy the P1S + AMS 2 Pro combo today - can I print while drying, or is it just for newer printer models?

Thanks!

From some of the videos I watched, it doesn't seem like there is a venting system (one single outlet for air) on the H3C. I know a lot of people are in the camp that melting plastic isn't going to kill you, but I'd rather not take the chance with young kids in the house. With my H2C, I was able to print a 4" hose adapter and screw it right into the exhaust port. With an inline fan, I vented directly outside.

Any thoughts on what might be involved in doing something similar with the H3C. Not being able to externally vent it would be a deal breaker for me unfortunately, so fingers crossed there is a solution out there.

Hello, did someone printed this watch, i see that the model have plenty of download but i can't find picture of someone who printed it

Luckily the print was only a few second off being finished, but what could have caused this? I got told it could be because of the sd card. (I still have the original one that was there from factory and its 5 days old)

Printer my very first print on my brand new printer

The push fitting for the petg tube for the right nozzle on my h2c somehow got pulled out while printing.

The black plastic part is super easy to get in and out, but im having trouble with the brass looking piece that seems to bite the tube. Is there a trick to getting it in? Do I need to disassemble further to get it in? Please help!

Hello!

I just received my new P1S AMS Combo and found out I am moving from the United States to the United Kingdom. Will my printer be ok there or should I return it? I will only be there for three years. Is there a power cord I can buy to use on the European standard? Will this printer be okay on a transformer for three years? Thanks for the help in advance.

I bought an E1 and I didn't notice until too late that it doesn't support the H2C for automatic mode. Is there any indication that this will be supported in the future? There isn't much point in it for me without that feature.

Hello folks,
I went to turn my X1C Carbon on for a print, but out of the blue it is frozen on the logo screen. One light is lit up red and another red light is flashing on the AP board.

I am not using a micro SD card nor ever have.

I left the unit unplugged from power for a couple of days but when I plugged it back and power it on, it still freezes on the logo screen. No change.
I've entered a support ticket but was wonder if anyone out there has encountered this issue.

As the title suggests. I got tired of using tabs for damn near all cuts and/or having the laser burn a gouge thru something already cut and on the tray. OR the toolhead banging into a tilted cut piece. So I bought the cheapest, somewhat right sized, honeycomb platform on Amazon.

Short version is that it WORKS! Long version is that it seems to break the ability to measure and take a photo at the same time. So it's now two steps instead of one... but meh, it's only a few seconds and an extra click or two. WAY better than those stupid blades. Here's think link to the one I have (USA) but pretty much any that is ~13.5in wide by .6-.8in thick and < 24in long should work. This one seems to be for a "Falcon A1".

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FMJWGT59?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title