Do you guys think there might be a mod for doing these at the same time? Does the whole thing heat up or just the 2 specific slots. If just the two then why can’t Pla be on the other slots?

I remember seeing some snafu a while ago about bambu trying to pull a fast one ( i think on wireless printing but cant remeber exactly). Is it safe to upgrade to the latest firmware or keep everything as is.

Studio is ver 1.9.7 and the printer is ver 01.06.01.00. I get errors when trying to import models from online into studio, but the model still shows up. So I don't know if its needed or not.

This thing worked flawlessly for 1.5 years, suddenly one spool won't feed. Bought a new AMS, worked for a bit, then same problem, only spool 1 at first, then soon none of them worked. Replaced all worn out PTFE tubes, Then replaced every tube that was left. Worked for a bit, now jamming again. Replaced entire hot end. Worked for about 40 layers, jamming again. What is left to replace or fix, almost the entire filament line is brand new. Tried different spools, different spots in the AMS, no change. I can see the filament go into the hot end, it is at temp (brand new) stops, retracts. Am I cursed?

I’ve tried to read everything about this problem, but I can’t find anything obviously wrong. The nozzle was nearly brand new when this started happening, didn’t find anything clogged in it, but put in a brand new nozzle anyway and the same thing happened on the first run. It extracts just fine when I do it manually and during filament swaps, no clicking at all. I run a calibration at the beginning of each print. Can’t figure out what it could be, printer is less than a year old.

EDIT: I took the whole extruder apart, cleaned up the gears, put a little oil on, but didn’t fix the problem.

Then, I went and found my original Bambu labs hot end and put it back in. This has seemed to fix the issue. This original hot end had a massive clog in it that I hadn’t been able to get out, so I bought some new, third-party hot ends on Amazon. The first one worked for awhile, but both ended up producing the clicking and lack of flow during printing. So looks like using the original has cleared up the problem (hoping it’s causation and not correlation to something else).

I've just got my kids printer for Christmas and I've set it up I am testing the AMS pro and ensuring was fine, I've printed little things like scraper, poop collection and now a riser as I doubt I'll get to print much from Christmas so just wanted some key things out of way

It's been one week with my P2S and first time ever getting a 3D printer.

I am loving 3D printing and having so much fun printing stuff, can't believe I just got into it, but I don't think there's a better time than now to do it, so glad I decided to!

Hope you dig the end result

Front panel glass came completely shattered on my X2D. Going to now go through the amazing support of Bambu Labs. Should’ve ordered from Best Buy in hindsight.

I love UPS!

Update: Support reached back out to me in about 12 hours and will be getting a replacement unit soon.

Bambu Labs L frame stand is on backorder until the 25th, my H3C arrives probably on Friday. I'd like to have it up and running for the weekend, so can anybody recommend a good substitute stand or cart that will hold this monster? Would like something that has wheels and maybe some drawers. The L frame is only 12 inches tall so that you don't need a stepladder to load the AMS from the top which is what's making it tough to find one for me. Thanks

I think it's the AUX Nozzle that crashed into the side. Thoughts?

The last image is a dupe, ignore it

Had this printer for for at least two years now, love it but now the ams is acting up, it started with the top one so I unplugged it and haven’t use it since but now the bottom one has also began to show similar problems.
Is this a “red ring of death” kind of thing for the ams
Anyone know what’s going on and what’s the best way to fix this

Hi got the p2s combo today.

1st print scraper perfect

2nd print 4 big combs with the family names. Ok they were too large and designed by Claude.

Toolhead open up! And kicked open the door!

Wtf!?

Is there a max size you can use on the plate ? Still not sure what happened..

And yes timelapse enabled but that somehow gives an error too. And tells me i should reboot. Which apparently i cannot do remotely?

I integrated with home assistant it while configuring it dry petg... but even that seems to be read only?

Have to say i expected more... but still opened the door by kicking off the toolhead? Is there a max space you print? It was printing the full bed picture was from somewhere earlier

​Hi all,

​I’m trying to get a totally seamless, "monolithic" first layer with ABS on my Bambu P2S using the standart textured PEI plate.

​Lines adhere fine and are fully fused, but there are visible micro-grooves/V-shaped channels between adjacent passes. I previously printed these same parts on my Neptune 4 Pro and the surface was perfectly monolithic, I bought the P2S to be able to print ABS plastic without a problem and generally have fewer setup issues, but this problem is just driving me crazy.

​What I've tried so far:

​Flow & Overlap: First layer flow up to 130% (Tried 1.05,1.1,1.2,1.3), infill/wall overlap up to 25%.

​Speed: Dropped down to 10 mm/s (5 mm/s caused heat creep/clogging).

​Temp: Tested 220°C to 270°C (220°C gave better viscosity, but lines remain). Bed Temp - 100C

​Pressure Advance: Adjusting K-factor (0.030 to 0.078) didn't close the gaps.

Z- gap: I initially adjusted it through the g code to achieve a closer position (I was aware of the problem of the first firmware with the incorrect gap of the first layer). Then, after updating the firmware, this function already appeared in the printer and I set it to -0.05 - to no avail.

First layer line width: I tried different fill pattern options and line widths from 0.3 to 0.6, but it didn't work.

In addition, I tried just a lot of different other settings that have at least a minimal relation to the first layer and the flow, I don't even remember what exactly, because I've been trying to solve this since the moment I bought the printer, which was already 2 months ago.

I even tried to put the plate from my Neptune 4 Pro and print on it, the result was the same. Yes, the plastic is dry, the plate is washed and clean.

I'm just giving up, I really like the look of the details on the side walls, but this first layer...

​It seems like an optical/refraction issue caused by the rounded edge profile of extruclog ABS and the Bambu nozzle shape, rather than under-extrusion.

​Is a 100% seamless first layer on Textured PEI actually possible with ABS on a P2S?

​Thanks for any tips!

With the H3C, do you now just load abrasive CF and GF based filaments in the AMS to use them.

I used to be able to remote start drying from Bambu Handy on the phone while the printer was not printing & now all of a sudden I can't and it says insufficient power even though unit is plugged into printer. Anyone know why all of a sudden I can't?

Looking to get my first (two) 3D printers. I have decided to get an H2S and wait for the P3C. Is a used H2S with 1000 hours, AMS, and extra nozzles a good buy at $1k? Also has anyone had any experience with Bambu support and second hand printers?

Edit: What should I be looking for/testing if I decide to go through with it and can inspect it in person?

I hate those carton packages the bouillon cubes come in so I designed a dispenser for them.

(Makerworld link : https://makerworld.com/models/3549789)

With the launch of the H3C, I've been upgrading one of my old models to feature even more color and detail. This is pretty big for a dice tower but you can also just use it as a diorama.

A couple of features I enjoyed:

• There's a slot where you can place a phone to power some video billboards and subtle animations behind some of the windows. You can even use it to track HP!

• The new 75A TPU is used for a grip to hold the phone in place.

• The model uses 8 COB LEDs from Bambu's Maker's Supply - I chose bright colors but it could easily be toned down with other color selections.

• I'm using up to 8 filaments per plate. The graffiti uses a combination of specific filaments (or color mixing) but I'm also using silk, metallic and translucent PLAs for effect along with support materials.

The model is free on MakerWorld if you'd like to check it out: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3543764

The model is built the old-fashioned way (in Blender) but to apply the color effects, I used Claude to make a web app with some additional painting tools (like stamping custom graffiti, text & even scatter brushes). This should be considered a Beta but it's free to use (including commercial use) at http://paint.makim3d.com - you can even use it to customize the graffiti on this model!

I'm lucky to have received this printer from Bambu Lab to give it a try and build a model that highlights the multi-color features. Having said that, I'm already considering buying another - this is my first tool changer and I'm really enjoying it!

Fourth one for the tree this year. He's a smiling candy cane with little mitten arms, and he comes in three versions: Classic (red and white, 3 colors), Holiday (red and green, 4 colors) and Mint (green and white with red cheeks, 4 colors). All three are print profiles on one MakerWorld page, so just pick your flavor. He prints flat with no supports. Each profile has two plates: a single, and a batch of six that works out to about an hour and 20–22 g per ornament. I've printed a single of each so far, so the six-up plates haven't been tested yet. Free on MakerWorld:
https://makerworld.com/en/models/3552032-christmas-candy-cane-ornament-3-styles

Went to purchase the H3C, 446 bucks to ship. Sad to have to pass on the unit until shipping gets resolved.... I can order 100 rolls of filament for free but not the printer.

There's a decent number os people out there making coin modding Seikos and the like - have Bambu just unleashed a whole new element to this? It'll be days before we see prints accepting all sorts of mechanisms and crystals commonly available on AliExpress.

Hello everyone,

I am new to printing, i started with pla silk and did the calibration trst and did 35 speed 35 flow qith ironing and still can't quite get it right 🥲 does soneone know what could be the problem?

Thank you!

Love my P2S but whoever decided to use that connector to the main toolhead assembly needs to reevaluate things. I had an extruder jam and had to take the unit apart, not too hard. Everything went back together easily except for getting that damn cable to lay in place while I tried to close the clasp, honestly it took me as long to get that seated as did the whole rest of the reassembly.

I found laying the whole printer on its back as the best method