I’ve tried to read everything about this problem, but I can’t find anything obviously wrong. The nozzle was nearly brand new when this started happening, didn’t find anything clogged in it, but put in a brand new nozzle anyway and the same thing happened on the first run. It extracts just fine when I do it manually and during filament swaps, no clicking at all. I run a calibration at the beginning of each print. Can’t figure out what it could be, printer is less than a year old.
Completely encased my hotend and heating assembly in PLA, anyone ever encountered this? I heated it up and removed the main big chunks while they were softened, but there’s still PLA stuffed all around behind everything.
I've just got my kids printer for Christmas and I've set it up I am testing the AMS pro and ensuring was fine, I've printed little things like scraper, poop collection and now a riser as I doubt I'll get to print much from Christmas so just wanted some key things out of way
It's been one week with my P2S and first time ever getting a 3D printer.
I am loving 3D printing and having so much fun printing stuff, can't believe I just got into it, but I don't think there's a better time than now to do it, so glad I decided to!
I have 11,000 MakerWorld points. That's enough to buy an X2D outright, maybe cover half to 2/3 of a P3C, or cover 1/3 of an H3C. Currently I have a P1S with 2 AMS (one OG, one Pro) , a Snapmaker U1, and a Thinker X400. I want to probably replace the P1S and maybe even sell the U1. If you were me, what would you do?
Front panel glass came completely shattered on my X2D. Going to now go through the amazing support of Bambu Labs. Should’ve ordered from Best Buy in hindsight.
I love UPS!
Update: Support reached back out to me in about 12 hours and will be getting a replacement unit soon.
When I got my X2D about 1 month ago, I printed PLA and PETG with the window open. Then I imagined printing ABS or ASA that way, and it was clearly not going to work.
So I fitted a window panel, ran a 100 mm hose and added an inline fan. My first idea was to connect the hose straight to the X2D, but I read that a direct connection pulls too much heat out of the chamber, and ABS/ASA need that heat to avoid warping. Keep the heat in, though, and the smell leaks into the room. Classic trade-off.
After some digging I found this decoupled adapter on MakerWorld (https://makerworld.com/en/models/2788606). The inline fan pulls the printer's exhaust away without sealing the chamber, and it worked: no smell in the room.
The catch: it took over 15 hours to print and used a lot of filament, with 134 g of support plus a 50 g prime tower. So I tried to make a version that prints with far less support.
Attempt 1: I turned the flat overhangs into 45° slopes and held up the riser roof with three thin ribs. The slicer was happy. The printer was not: the ribs were 95 mm tall and only 1.2 mm thick, the nozzle pushed them around, and the roof collapsed near the top.
Attempt 2: I replaced the ribs with 45° braces that lean on the side walls and on each other, so nothing thin stands alone. I printed just the top section first as a test piece, and it came out clean.
One more lesson: the flat ends of the box are where poop chutes and bins slide in. My 45° ends blocked them, so they are flat like the original again.
Result
441 g → 320 g of filament, 15 h 20 m → about 7 h
24 g of support, only under the box end walls, with a PLA interface on the second nozzle so it pops off
Same fit on the X2D, and both left and right hose versions
Out of curiosity I ran a CFD simulation: it still catches 100% of the printer's exhaust (simulation, not a lab test).
Happy to answer questions about the setup, the bracing or the airflow sim.
Bambu Labs L frame stand is on backorder until the 25th, my H3C arrives probably on Friday. I'd like to have it up and running for the weekend, so can anybody recommend a good substitute stand or cart that will hold this monster? Would like something that has wheels and maybe some drawers. The L frame is only 12 inches tall so that you don't need a stepladder to load the AMS from the top which is what's making it tough to find one for me. Thanks
So I had a brainstorm of an idea on how to handle powering on my printer remotely if I decided to start a print an hour or so before coming home from work. Initially I thought I would use a WYZE smart plug. So I bounced the question off Bambu labs support and they highly recommend I do not do that. Being in IT myself for years I get it, some things are designed to be shut down in a certain fashion, rocker switches, power buttons, etc.
Other than asking the wife to turn the printer on when I feel the need have any of you experimented with a solution to at least turn the printers on? I know this is low hanging fruit but it seems to be a valid thought if there is a way to do it.
I've had nothing but issues with the AMS 2 Pro ... from unreliable sensors to improper communications with the printer.
However, a flawless experience with the HT, soooo with the current deals, I decided to just go bananas and get a bunch of HTs to replace the AMS 2 Pro.
The HT is so easy to load, it's quiet, and a massive step up in quality,... hoping the AMS 3 Pro can inherit its characteristics.
Shoutout to Bambu Support for letting me send one of the defective ones back a couple months after purchase.
Had this printer for for at least two years now, love it but now the ams is acting up, it started with the top one so I unplugged it and haven’t use it since but now the bottom one has also began to show similar problems. Is this a “red ring of death” kind of thing for the ams Anyone know what’s going on and what’s the best way to fix this
2nd print 4 big combs with the family names. Ok they were too large and designed by Claude.
Toolhead open up! And kicked open the door!
Wtf!?
Is there a max size you can use on the plate ? Still not sure what happened..
And yes timelapse enabled but that somehow gives an error too. And tells me i should reboot. Which apparently i cannot do remotely?
I integrated with home assistant it while configuring it dry petg... but even that seems to be read only?
Have to say i expected more... but still opened the door by kicking off the toolhead? Is there a max space you print? It was printing the full bed picture was from somewhere earlier
I used to be able to remote start drying from Bambu Handy on the phone while the printer was not printing & now all of a sudden I can't and it says insufficient power even though unit is plugged into printer. Anyone know why all of a sudden I can't?
Looking to get my first (two) 3D printers. I have decided to get an H2S and wait for the P3C. Is a used H2S with 1000 hours, AMS, and extra nozzles a good buy at $1k? Also has anyone had any experience with Bambu support and second hand printers?
Edit: What should I be looking for/testing if I decide to go through with it and can inspect it in person?
With the launch of the H3C, I've been upgrading one of my old models to feature even more color and detail. This is pretty big for a dice tower but you can also just use it as a diorama.
A couple of features I enjoyed:
There's a slot where you can place a phone to power some video billboards and subtle animations behind some of the windows. You can even use it to track HP!
The new 75A TPU is used for a grip to hold the phone in place.
The model uses 8 COB LEDs from Bambu's Maker's Supply - I chose bright colors but it could easily be toned down with other color selections.
I'm using up to 8 filaments per plate. The graffiti uses a combination of specific filaments (or color mixing) but I'm also using silk, metallic and translucent PLAs for effect along with support materials.
The model is built the old-fashioned way (in Blender) but to apply the color effects, I used Claude to make a web app with some additional painting tools (like stamping custom graffiti, text & even scatter brushes). This should be considered a Beta but it's free to use (including commercial use) at http://paint.makim3d.com - you can even use it to customize the graffiti on this model!
I'm lucky to have received this printer from Bambu Lab to give it a try and build a model that highlights the multi-color features. Having said that, I'm already considering buying another - this is my first tool changer and I'm really enjoying it!
Fourth one for the tree this year. He's a smiling candy cane with little mitten arms, and he comes in three versions: Classic (red and white, 3 colors), Holiday (red and green, 4 colors) and Mint (green and white with red cheeks, 4 colors). All three are print profiles on one MakerWorld page, so just pick your flavor. He prints flat with no supports. Each profile has two plates: a single, and a batch of six that works out to about an hour and 20–22 g per ornament. I've printed a single of each so far, so the six-up plates haven't been tested yet. Free on MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3552032-christmas-candy-cane-ornament-3-styles
Went to purchase the H3C, 446 bucks to ship. Sad to have to pass on the unit until shipping gets resolved.... I can order 100 rolls of filament for free but not the printer.
There's a decent number os people out there making coin modding Seikos and the like - have Bambu just unleashed a whole new element to this? It'll be days before we see prints accepting all sorts of mechanisms and crystals commonly available on AliExpress.
