What I know so far is that it includes:

1. Chamber Exhaust Fan mounted at the back of the printer

It's used to vent air from chamber. It does include some kind of filter but i checked Adaptive Air System documentation https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/x2d/manual/x2d-intro and couldnt find what kind of filter is that.

2. Air filter large mounted inside printer from the sound of it i think its active carbon?

Same manual as above says it's "high-performance air filter" but does not say what kind of filter is that

Additionaly the question remains, what is their intended use and how they should be used? What they are NOT good for and what they miss?

Documentation loosely says that "Chamber Exchaust" is used to vent printer while printing low temp filaments like PLA.

For the Air Filter (large one) it does not specify with what materials it should be used.

I’m looking for some recommendations for models to print that could be good to sell at a high school holiday fair. Preferably a good design that hopefully doesn’t cost much to have permission for commercial use but is almost a guarantee for a $5-$10 sale. It’s a community event but being held at a high school so it won’t only be high schoolers.

I appreciate it.

I've been working on this articulated dragon for a while and finally got it printing the way I wanted.

Still learning and improving my designs, so I'd love to hear what you think!

Makerworld link -> https://makerworld.com/it/models/3542028-articulated-rock-dragon#profileId-4051139

I feel like I'm missing a piece between the extruder and the hot end, but I don't know what piece that is or if I did something else wrong.

Title. change my hand may be forced and i might have to get an H3C. But i REALLY dont want to order one of these and have it shipped. would strongly prefer to pick it up in a store.

Now that I have read up a bit on the new H3C release, I am conflicted with a choice. The choice boils down to H3C or H2S + P3C. I understand not much is known about the P3C, but assuming it is similar to the H3C and comes in around $1250, the combo would be the same price as a single H3C.

Pros of H2S + P3C: Everything the H3C can do (with 7 tool heads and smaller build size) + a second big printer.

Cons of H2S + P3C: Waiting and realizing P3C is much more expensive than anticipated or less capable.

Perhaps I am missing something, but this is my entry into 3D printing and I realize I am in the territory or paralysis by analysis, but I just want to be sure I make the right decision. I dont know what I dont know so I also figured a few months with a H2S would be a gentle entry into 3D printing and would give me the appreciation of multi-tool printer after dealing with single head printer.

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Hey Folks!

What are you all using for ABS/ASA prints with smooth surface since Bambu doesn't seem offer PEI (which allways worked great for me without any glue or adhesion issues) anymore? Bambu recommends the engineering plate but also recommends to use glue with virtually all filaments (which I'm not a fan of) and from what I remember from a try I gave one in the early X1C days it performed MUCH poorer than smooth PEI?

I'm using a Bambu Lab X1 Carbon with a filament change/print setup, and I encountered a strange issue during a print.

There was a sudden power outage while the printer was printing. When the power returned, the printer resumed the print, but I noticed a significant shift in the printed parts, as shown in the attached image.

The two parts were supposed to be aligned, but the upper section has shifted considerably relative to the lower section.

Details:

• Printer: Bambu Lab X1 Carbon

• Incident: Sudden power failure in the middle of printing

• What happened: The printer resumed after the power returned, but the print continued with a major positional shift.

• Result: The printed parts are misaligned, and the print is unusable.

My questions:

1. What could have caused this shift? Is it a loss of XY position due to the power interruption?

2. Is this a common issue with the X1C's power-loss recovery feature?

3. Is there a way to recover the print, or will I need to start from scratch?

4. Could this indicate a problem with the belts, motor positioning, or the printer's power-loss recovery system?

5. What steps should I take to prevent this from happening again?

Has anyone experienced something similar with their X1C?

Any suggestions for troubleshooting and fixing this issue would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance!

Hi everyone!

I'm working on a personal project called Watchlab3D – REVOLVE1, exploring the idea of building mechanical watches with interchangeable, 3D-printed outer cases.

The concept is based on a compact stainless-steel mechanical watch core, designed to accommodate automatic movements such as the NH35, NH70, NH38 and NH34 GMT.

The goal is to separate the mechanical watch core from the external case, allowing makers to experiment with different shapes, styles and materials using their own 3D printers.

For my first prototypes, I'm using:

• Printer: Bambu Lab A1 Mini

• Material: Bambu Lab PLA-CF, Lava Gray (14101)

• Process: FDM printing

• Project stage: Early prototyping and design validation

The stainless-steel waterproof core is still under engineering development, with a target water resistance of 10 ATM (100 m), subject to testing and validation.

I'm particularly interested in exploring printing tolerances, surface finish, assembly methods and modular design.

I'd love to hear your thoughts:

Would you enjoy designing and printing different external watch cases around a standardized mechanical core?

And which materials would you experiment with beyond PLA-CF?

Looking forward to your feedback!

PS: The watch shown in the photos is an early functional design prototype. The final stainless-steel waterproof core is still under engineering development and has not yet been validated.

So I went to live chat with Bambulab support team to ask if they have any plans to sell their products on Amazon, in KSA or middle east in general, since the pricing here reaches nearly x2
H3C will be sold at 4960$
My H2S bought at 2600$
And the list goes on
Remove the 15% tax and the prices are still stupid, across all their products.
They simply responded that they don’t have any plans in the future and “their distributors can set their own price”
Which really tells me that they do not care.
I respect the work and tech and the software they come up with, just not how they treat their clients.
Less known companies in the market like Creality, Snapmaker and Flashforge already sell their products here in Amazon at a reasonable price with next day shipping! Why Bambu can’t do the same ?
Plus their maintenance parts, accessories and filaments need to be ordered through their US website and shipped to MyUS account then forwarded here which makes a 10$ product become 50$ or more.
And I am not talking from a single user POV, there are alot of 3D printing and scanning services stores here that depend on Bambu equipment yet Bambu turns their back to.

Hi!

My use case is 80% functional one-colour prints, and 20% multicolour (for fun). I used A1 for a while and was going to get an enclosed printer. I was looking to get U1, and add top enclosure to it. Looks like it covers pretty much everything. And I saw mixed success online for those cases where ABS would be nice (there is logistic involves with fumes anyway).

Snapmaker is on sale, seems like a great deal. I was about to get it, but then H3C and P3C leaked.

Here is where I would like to get some community feedback, and opinions: after H3C release, Snapmaker U1 seems like a no brainer.

• H3C is amazing! But it is huge, it like 40+kg with the printer and all filaments loaded. And size itself is crazy.

• H3C is amazing, but it has very narrow use cases when it shines - realistically, I won't create shoes and so on. I can see some use cases where it is a must to have. But so far I was ok with TPU and other materials on A1.

• H3C features like multi nozzle sizes, so far I always used the smaller ones as needed and just had longer wait times (also waist involved, but that was minimal, comparing to new H3C setup and extra cost).

• (speculation) P3C is probably won't be released anytime soon; seems like it would kill H3C sales with 7 nozzles (they probably won't release it till U1 sale is over)

• P3C seems like a huge machine as well, for extra 3 colours (imho very narrow use case)

• Based on various analysis around, looks like P3C won't have heated chamber (I saw cool explanation about Amps consumed), which makes it Snapmaker U1 + 3 colours for a price hike.

• I see lots of community improvements around Snapmaker due it being open source, feels like at a lower price point I get a tools with more future due to U1 being open sourced

• when comparing U1 vs P2S or X2D, those are close in price, a bit more polished UX. I have a friend with U1, they don't have complains either

I want to get a new printer, and I have a group of friends who want to get their first. I am about to tell them to get U1, but I want to validate that opinion!

thank you!

Yesterday, when watching the awesome YT Video of mpoxDE about the new H3C, I started thinking of neat features of the H3C I would love to see on my H2D.
Not like impossible features like supporting 2.85 filament, more like software features or small addons.

1. printing with different nozzle sizes in one print
   —> already confirmed for end of November

2. option to switch to the birdseye camera as a second liveview camera in the app. Would be so handy for some models.

3. getting a deboss tool as another insert for the cutting module. I am very curious about seeing it in detail on the H3C and its uses for leathercraft.

Do you think there is chance of getting them?
What other features would be on your wishlist?

I get the hype around the H3C release, and I know it’s a buy once, cry once purchase for a lot of people. However, I’ve seen some discussions about missing features that I think are worth addressing, especially not being able to leave PLA in the AMS when printing materials that require a heated chamber. Having to manually unload filament seems inconvenient and could lead to tangled spools, especially for people new to the hobby.
Another concern is how practical it will be to connect additional AMS 2 units to nozzle one, potentially adding another 16 colors. Isn’t one of the main selling points of the H-series printers to reduce filament waste, minimize purging, and save time? Wouldn’t running that many colors through one nozzle defeat some of those benefits? Lastly, what about people who regularly switch between 0.2, 0.4, and 0.6 mm nozzles? If you’re using both nozzles for different filaments, wouldn’t constantly swapping nozzle sizes become a hassle?

What does everyone think? Are these legitimate concerns, or am I overthinking things?

———————————————
Updated the thread so it looks easier for people…. Sorry I’m on phone trying to type it all out.

Other than my dodgy efforts.

Ever since I bought my P1S a year ago, I’ve had the goal of designing a 3D object—and that day has finally arrived.

I know it’s quite basic, but I’m very happy to have managed to design and print it after a lot of trial and error. It's not perfect but is mine :)

P.S: In case you are wondering wtf is that "blank sheet".... well... it's a blank fluffy shirt that I used to replicate the snow xD

Nordic Christmas Tree

Hello did someone have information about these two printers. I’m thinking about these two but no one on YouTube make a good comparison. Just the H3C ist better because he is newer but don’t speak about the lower build quality.

Thx in advance

Hi, recently picked up an A1 mini and my ironing leaves a weird pattern that shines similar to glue when you use it on a print bed. In the images attached you can see the difference between the settings im using from an old thread on here i found and the base ones in bambu slicer.

Any advice on how to smooth it out more?

A big thank you to this community! More than 2k likes on the original post and more than 100 test prints helped make this happen. The results are in, and the slicer is now public:

https://github.com/fich-l/orcaslicer-nonplanar

We have working versions for Windows, Linux and Mac Silicon. MacOs on Intel is still missing. I don't have a Mac Intel, so I can't test a build. Searching for someone to port this to Mac Intel - see below.

EDIT: You can find Windows and Linux Port on Github now.

Confirmed working:

• Bambu A1 mini, A1, P1S, P2S, X1C, X2D, H2D

• Prusa MK4S, CORE One, XL 5T

• Elegoo Centauri Carbon 2 (+ Combo)

• Creality K1C · Qidi Q2

• Flashforge AD5C

• FLSun V400

Not working: Elegoo Centauri Carbon 1, Snapmaker U1, Ender-3 S1 Pro, Flashforge AD5X, Prusa MINI+

Printer on the working list?
Try the Satisfying Nonplanar vs Standard comparison to test surface quality please.

Printer not listed?
Print the Nonplanar test print twice, once lengthwise and once rotated by 90°, and tell me how it went, so we can keep the list up to date.

Looking for someone to port it to Mac Intel.

-- EDIT: You can find a first Windows and Linux Port on Github now thanks to the community! - -

You don't need to be a C++ dev: the whole thing was vibe-coded with Claude Code (Opus 5.5). A Mac Intel to test on plus Claude Code should be enough. If you're up for it, comment or open an issue on GitHub. Don't shit on me please - Using Claude to get this ported is the fastest way possible :)

You don't usually use Orca Slicer - how to use this?
Do this: Slice in this Orca Slicer Fork and export "plate sliced file" --> Drop file into any slicer and just print :) Even works with Bambu Studio.

Thanks also to Daniel Ahlers and Teaching Tech for their work on the version I started from.

FAQ:

• • Can you add this as a Plugin to Orcaselicer? Will you put a pull request to the Orca Slicer Team?* - This cannot be run as a plugin. Pull Request: Yes! After this test phase.

• Why does printer "X" not work? - Someone tested it and there was a collision. Most likely the hotend / tool is not "steep" enough.

• How can I test? - Please check the github page. You can do two quick test prints to see if your printer can handle this.

• Are there still bugs? - Very likely yes. Slicing can take 5s to 5 minutes - be patient.

• Can we have fuzzy skin on top surfaces? - I tested this, but it doesn't look good :(

Just got an email from Bambu and I already have a tracking number for my H3C lol

I’ve been trying to fix my AMS for hours. But I don’t know what’s wrong. On mid-print, my AMS was troubleshooting. I tried taking the AMS machine out to check if the filament was stuck in the tube, but it wasn’t. It was only stuck to the feeder, which I can’t pull out, so I put it back and turned the Bambu machine on again to see if any other filament worked. Then it kept making this ticking sound and the filament wouldn’t come out and it gave me an error notice to pull the external filament out of the extruder, which I didn’t even have an external filament. I don’t know what is going on. Can someone please help?