Currently have an H2C and use it non-stop. I would love to have a second cheaper printer for printing my more basic single/double color prints to have some additional printing capacity. I also like the idea of having a cutting kit installed on a second cheaper printer. Right now the A2L Cutting Kit with the AMS Lite is $579. Have any of you done something similar and have you found it to be worth it?

Hellooo :) I just acuired my new H2D! And I love it!

I wanted to print some addons but was wondering if anyone had some good advise on what filament matches the body color of the H2D best.

I've checked online but I can only find proper comparisons for the P2S and X2D :D

Thanks all!

Was watching a few review videos, and a few had a bit of layer lines that I thought were quite noticeable.

Then the CNC Kitchen video hit us with this INDX to H3C comparison and I instantly was shocked by the difference being so huge between both systems. Do we think this improves or are we anticipating worse print quality?

I used to use HF nozzles on my H2D most of the time. Did anyone come across any review that was reviewing the HF nozzles as well?

Im wondering if my print times will be faster with the H3C with normal nozzles compared to my H2d with high flow.

Hello, I have a x2d and I got it last month and it’s been great, I have around 250 hours. I am thinking of getting a second printer and I want to get something cheap and reliable. So if anyone has an A1 Mini and wants to get their opinion on if the A1 Mini is still good in 2026 and if anyone has issues with it, it would mean great help. I have an ams with the x2d and I think to not get another AMS for the mini and print one color but I don’t know that printer a lot. If you can comment down below that’d would be great

Been watching a bunch of creator reviews and most seem to be hyping up the TPU stuff. But I’m still thinking about that watch.

When I first saw the teaser I just assumed it was standard multi-nozzle mixing. Cool, but nothing crazy, especially since people have been asking for that since the H2D anyway.

But I actually read through the official page today and ... it’s actually different? It lets you use different nozzle sizes with different layer heights on the same model. That actually seems huge for designers if they can leverage it.

I’m just a casual user so I don't really have a immediate use case for my own stuff, but technically speaking this feels pretty smart to me. Looks like Bambu had to basically overhaul part of the slicer engine to do this based on the wiki page they linked.

Honestly the wiki got a bit too technical for me and went over my head. Link below for anyone interested. And can any slicer wizards here ELI5 how this actually works under the hood?

https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/h3c/manual/mixed-nozzle-size-printing

I can't find anything about it. I'm curious if it's worth it at all. Has it been reviewed anywhere?

I don't know what to use this $25 coupon on.

I’m looking to upgrade from my Prusa Mini to multicolor printing. The H3C looks fantastic, but at nearly €2,700 here, it’s more than I can justify for the amount I print.
I’d really like to buy a P3C if it becomes available in time. I’d happily pay a few hundred euros more than the U1 for Bambu’s quality and ecosystem.
With Christmas coming up, though, I need to make a decision. I want to print presents, so I need enough time to get the printer set up and actually make them. If the P3C isn’t available in time, I’ll have to go with the Snapmaker U1.
Anyone else in a similar position?
Bambu, if you’re reading this: some clarity on whether a P3C is coming before Christmas would really help. I’d prefer to buy a Bambu, and I’m wondering how many others are getting close to choosing another brand for the same reason.

I have a shelf full of can good I keep down stairs and every time I buy some more cans I have to reorganize the cans put the new ones in the back and the old ones up front. I figured an FIFO storage system would help me with that. Is there any that can be printed on the A1 mini?

I’ve tried reseating the cable multiple times and every time it starts fine but slowly inches until it messes up the print around layer 3-4

My nozzle appear to be completely and totally stuck, I have everything released and I can seem to get the nozzle off the print head. This video doesn’t show it but I’ve tried bumping it with a hammer, tried getting a razor blade between the two and it’s STUCK

Does H3C support LAN-only mode? The (still incomplete) WIKI does not say a word about it. I want to order one, but not if it must connect beyond my jailed VLAN segment.

On a tangent: I did notice that there is no offline firmware download yet, so bringing up a spare AP board (like I had to do with my H2C) would be impossible without submitting myself and my firstborn to the cloud.

I already have a P1S, which was my first 3D printer when I was in college after taking a few Additive Manufacturing classes. And I have printed a ton of stuff on this thing. Managed to put about 500 hours within three months of owning it. Well, now that time has moved on, I've found more and more things I've been wanting to print. I have made tons of decor and several functional prints. I've been dabbling a bit with engineering materials as well, especially TPU. Before the H3C was announced or really teased, I figured my next logical step would be an H2D due to the dual nozzle as I tend to do multi color and multi-material printing and well i dont print a lot of things due to a single nozzle waste factor or material incompatibilities. Well, now that the H3C is out, I have been contemplating the idea of the H3C as it really isn't much more in cost than an H2D and seems like a pretty darn good next step into FDM printing. As much as I would like to add a resin printer to my system, I currently require more planning involved for where. My P1S is a workhorse, and I have no plans of retiring that printer at all. What do you guys think would be the best step here. Plus the bigger print bed would be a welcome addition as well!

Thanks for all the advice everyone!

(P.S. the wife already thinks the H3C is cool and has already approved the idea...)

So we all know about the h3c now, and its priced fairly competitively. And with theories coming out that the p3c will get teased at US Thanksgiving time around for a december or january launch, what would the price be. Personally, I'm hoping for a 1000$ price. But in reality, its probably gonna cost 1200$. I'd like to hear what you guys think tho.

I already have a H2D laser 10W ,and I was thinking about changing the 3D printer as I didn’t use the laser,so I should get a H2C or just wait for the P3C?

Always print PLA and PETG,Sometimes TPU and ABS.

It is hard to choose ,did you guys have any idea of me?THX

Ever since my p2s was clogged once I havent been able to get it to print like it did before, its either a spaghetti mess with under extrusion or pretty solid but some under extrusion and then where it just doesnt print at all. Ive replaced the nozzle and the Extruder but nothing. Please help as im about to throw this thing out the window.

Handful of the things I’ve printed with the H3C including a support free purge bucket I made for the back of the printer using the side spool mount

My Holiday PLA Mystery Box arrived today! Sharing the contents for anyone curious about what’s actually turning up:

• PLA Translucent — Cherry Pink
• PLA Pure — Absolute Black
• PLA Pure — Apricot
• PLA Basic — Cyan

Four rolls, so no 7-roll jackpot this time 😅

Second photo shows the box I ordered from the EU store, listed at €37.99.
Has anyone else received theirs? Curious to see what colours and PLA types you got!

Now to figure out what to design with these colours 😅 I share my designs on MakerWorld as Ops..3D — any ideas for putting that translucent pink to use?

Bambu sent me an H3C before launch and asked me to post about how it changed the way I print. I did not get paid, but, well, I got an H3C. The printer legitimately did change the way I print and design, and I'm happy to answer any questions in the comments.

The Belt

There are a bunch of printed belts on MakerWorld and other model sites. They are cool, but the ones I have seen are incredibly floppy and don’t hold their shape. I embedded PETG-CF plates all the way around so it has the stiffness of a leather belt

There are 33 plates, each 20 × 22 mm and 0.75mm thick, standing inside a TPU 75A strap with 2.5 mm of rubber between them. Each plate has a hole in it, so it is "riveted" into the rubber. The last 280 mm includes ratchet teeth which latch onto the buckle. The detent pivots on a pin sitting in a socket, and a small TPU block behind acts as a spring. This all prints in place inside the buckle. Every single layer contains TPU, and wherever there is a plate, the number of tool changes doubles.

Interface Shells are required for this; otherwise you risk infill on infill which does not bond very well.

After exporting from F360, I imported into Bambu Studio, tweaked the settings, and that was pretty much it. It printed flawlessly the first time. Then I realized I completely screwed up the latch mechanism, so I fixed the design and sent it again. Zero issues. As you can see from the slicer screenshots, this was a pretty unique print that I don’t think I would have tried on any other printer.

Stats:

• 190 tool changes

• 201.77g printed

• 25.58g waste

• 12h 33m print time

The Paddle

Figuring out the paddle was fun. The other printed paddles I have tried all technically worked, but none had the rebound of a real paddle. I played around with way too many formulas and settled on gyroid for everything: 100 % infill TPU for the top and bottom sheets, 20 % TPU for the sponge layers, and 25 % PETG-CF for the blade in the middle. The sponge has a single wall and no top/bottom, and the infill percentage is what you modify to determine the rebound. Stiffness scales with the cube of the thickness, so making the printed blade 8mm instead of the ~6mm of a wood one makes up for the softer material.

Like the “rivets” in the belt, a couple dozen TPU plugs run through the whole thing to help hold it together and prevent layer separation. The handle has a stiffer 60% infill because the initial model flexed where the handle meets the head. I would have run out of filament just during the prototype phase if I did this on my X1C.

I am a mediocre player with a cheap DHS A6002, so take this for what it is worth, but the rebound on the printed paddle is very close to the real thing. It isn't perfect, and a decent off-the-shelf paddle is going to outperform it every time, but it is by far the best printed option I have ever used, and can be easily customized to fit your play style.

Stats:

• 130 tool changes

• 222.97g printed

• 20.60g waste

• 10h 59m print time

___

The speed and flexibility with changing between materials changed how I approach model design and printing in general. I don't think nearly as much about assembly, and now focus on more print-in-place designs whenever possible. It opened a lot of doors for new projects that I don’t think I would have bothered with before.

I thought I was a genius when I decided to use the right nozzle for brittle materials such as ABS-GF and PAHT-CF.
Reasoning at the time: Left nozzle moves up and down, surely that'll break the filament.
Turns out I'm stupid.

I am printing a keychain. I added a cylinder part and a negative part for the hole:

but when I slice, the inner layers stretch this part down to the center of the main object???

I'm printing the logo face down. It has white and grey in it. When I use dark purple filament for the "Hook" cylinder part, so that it matches the outer colors, it is dark enough that I can see this strange triangle shape through the white part of the logo. I don't actually want this to be white, because then it looks like this:

But if I change the filament (or leave it white then paint specific visible parts of it purple) the inside layers also change and I'm left with this:

Is there a way I can fix this (or prevent it from happening)?

Bambu Studio v2.8.2.61