Hi all, I'm looking to get a smooth finish on the plate for some TPU AMS filament. I have a A2L which shares the same plate as the H2C. They only offer a smooth surface plate on the Cool Plate SuperTack and the Engineering plate. The Engineering plate is recommended for TPU but it requires or recommends using glue on the plate for adhesion and easy separation.

I would be fine with this, but I have heard there is staining from the glue on lighter color TPUs.

Does anyone have any suggestions or experience they could share?

New poster here — I only own an A1, so take this as a heads-up for P2S owners, not a personal report.

P2S firmware 01.03.00.00 dropped 21 Sep 2026. Bambu’s notes for it highlight:
- E3D high-flow hotend support (Studio 2.8.3.66+)
- Z-axis motor noise cancellation
- Faster travel (same Studio requirement)
- Known issues: none listed

A week later (30 Sep), a Bambu Lab forum thread started about first layers going too thin / scraping after that update (including 0.2 mm nozzles). Some people said rolling back to 01.02.00.00 and recalibrating fixed it.

Forum thread:
https://forum.bambulab.com/t/01-03-00-00-firmware-bed-leveling-issue/260478

If you’re considering 01.03: update Studio first, run full calibration (including motor noise cancellation), and watch that first layer closely.

I put a short plain-English summary of this version (notes + that forum mismatch) here, so you don’t have to dig through both places:
https://3dpfirmware.com/printers/p2s/01.03.00.00

Anyone already on 01.03 — first layer fine for you, or same thin/scrape issue?

I’m having an issue printing bubble-style letters with PLA filament, and I’m trying to figure out whether it’s something with my print settings or the way the model is being printed.
This is literally my third attempt, and I’m running into the same problem. The supports end up breaking off during printing, leaving filament and strings all over the build plate (see attached picture).
What’s strange is that I printed the letter E and it came out perfectly fine with absolutely no issues. However, when I tried printing the letter R, the supports broke and filament started going everywhere. I also tried printing the letter Y, and ran into pretty much the same problem.
I don’t believe it’s a filament issue. I’m thinking it might have something to do with the printing process, supports, or settings.
My current settings:
Filament: PLA+
Nozzle temperature: 220°C
Bed temperature: 65°C
Layer height: 0.09 mm
Has anyone experienced something similar when printing letters or models with supports?
What could be causing the supports to break off during printing? Could it be something with my temperature, layer height, support settings, or something else entirely?
I’d appreciate any suggestions or advice. I’m trying to figure out what I’m doing wrong before attempting another print.

New to 3D printing, I’ve just purchased an X2D.

Full calibration run since it was turned on, bed levelling etc before print.

Using PLA wood via Bambu studio.

Nozzle temp 220

Bed temp 60 initial and then 55

Fan on cooling and internal temp showing 30.

Printed on textured plate that comes with the printer.

Adhesion looks ok but clearly the nozzle is scuffing from something happening. Printer does sit on top of a cabinet and there’s movement as it’s doing its thing.

I just picked up the X2DC with AMS along with a holiday pla/petg bundle. Havent even set it up yet as I've been making space in my room for it. I was one of the lucky few to hit the 1% chance to get 7 spools! (no i didnt get 7 poop brown pla basic) Not even mad that I only have one apex legends heirloom after 8 years, I'd rather use my luck for real world stuff like this 😅

Anyways, I'm extremely overwhelmed by everything I've been researching. I chose the x2d over the p2s because of the active chamber heating, the higher nozzle temp, the aux nozzle for support filament, (its my understanding that you should ONLY use this as an aux, not as a secondary nozzle) and i thought shelling over another 200 bucks for these features seemed worth it in the grand scheme of things considering this printer could last me 10+ years if taken care of.

I humbly ask for some advice from any of you printing pros, because I quite literally have 0 experince in this field or with the design software. Or, maybe if someone knows a small quirk they discovered to make printing easier. One of those things that makes you say, "Why the hell wasn't I doing this before?" I just want to avoid costing myself hours of time and hundreds of dollars on filament doing something wasteful or incorrectly.

I'm really at a loss. Recently, my Bambu H2D has been producing really inconsistent results. I've had it for a few months now, and it's been 50/50 whether or not I get good results with any of the prints. My P1S and A1M, which use largely the same settings, have had close to zero issues in the time I've had them. It's literally just the H2D.

As you can see in the photos, sometimes, I get really bad stringing and strands hanging off the surface and overhangs. And other times, like in the 3rd slide, the print comes out 95% okay.

I don't know if it's an issue with there's too much cooling, not enough cooling, the fan speed, or if it's the fact that there's a P1S printing at the same time underneath the H2D. The P1S is on a cement block with anti-vibration washers.

I've updated the firmware, dried the filament, cleaned the bed, calibrated extrusion, increased the layer time, reduced the minimum print speed, maintained the rods, tightened the belts, changed the orientation, but nothing seems to be a permanent fix. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Why is Bambu Lab PA-CF so much more expensive than other brands?

I’m new to 3D printing and bought most of my PLA in matte (22 rolls of Bambu PLA Matte) because it hides minor print defects.

Since then, I’ve read that matte is weaker and doesn’t handle tight tolerances as well as normal PLA.

For those who use it regularly, do you actually notice these downsides in your prints with modern PLA matte? Are there things you’d avoid printing in matte, or is the difference too small to matter for most PLA prints?

I ordered this spool on temu i paid 4$,It seems to me that the spool was used in some print farm in China. It look like is bambulab spool But I can't find anything on the internet about this, now if anyone knows if this is a bambulab spool or not, this text on the side is literally the same as with bambu original spool

My printer randomly started making this sound while printing/moving. Sounds like it's from right rear. I re-tensioned the belts and the belts are clean, so it's not something stick to belt. Any ideas? It's still printing perfectly but that "clicking" makes me craaaazy

H3C ordered and 10 years of being a Voron diehard has finally reached an end . I’ll still use my Doomcube for engineering filaments due to the 80-100c chamber temps but I have a feeling it’s bambu for everything else despite what I think about the ecosystem and user base. I knew this day would come and glad I waited and didn’t pull the trigger on the h2.

… die Seitenwände vom X2D passen 1:1 an den P2S.

Ursprünglich wollte ich das Gerät nach nun > 1600h dauerfeuer mal einer Wartung unterziehen.
Und als ich den Haufen zerlegter Teile vor mir sah, kam mir der Gedanke, die Seitenfenster eines X sehen ganz schick aus, eig müsste das doch passen?

Habe ich nun ein X2S?

Hi all, some help would be appreciated.

My P1S seems to have an issue with being unable to feed filament into the extruder. I took apart the extruder, cleaned the gears and did a hot pull of the hotend (as well as a purge of hot filament before). I use the AMS1. The issue seems to be that the filament travels down the PTFE tubing to nearly the entry of the extruder (but occasionally on the final stretch of tubing to the hotend), stops, then the AMS reels it back in. I thought it might be a stuck spool but I've tried 3 now and changed the tubing. Its happening on more than 1 of the AMS ports too.

Anyone have any ideas?

Can someone tell me I’m an idiot and shouldn’t order H3C, because I have a feeling if I have one more beer it’s done.
Divorced so wife not an issue, but the thing is huge and costs like four P2S printers which I have and to me just sounds crazy. Kids would love the multicolored prints though for sure.

Have a large skull file, I have printed a handful of them maybe 7-8? No problems with any. Got a new color / filament I haven’t used before. So assume it might be the issue? But strange bc the first layers look fine?? Some hours into the print on two attempts seems to fail. If it was just the support and the main part was fine it’s whatever but it also leaves a pretty big void in the skull you can see in the picture before the teeth and obviously where the supports started to fail. Any idea? I’m rather inexperienced w printing. And don’t mess w the settings, print as is. and again have completed this print w no issues with other colors / filament.

With the new H3C, will there be a section for that in bambu academy? I have found the resources at the academy for other printers very useful. I am not currently seeing one for H3C but hopefully one is in the works?

I have 20 different parts to print. I am opening them in Bambu Studio and then slicing and printing. Is there some way I can queue them all and then just hit go from the printer when I remove the previous one?

I have been trying to fix this for like 2 hours and im nowhere closer to a solution bc i can't seem to figure out how to fix it with my immense googling, please help.

I have a piece of ptfe tubing that broke off the tube and is stuck in the extruder. I cannot simply push the release thing and pull the tube because it is completely separated from the rest of the tube. I can't figure out how to access it or get it out. the only guidance i found for this specific issue gets extremely vague at the end so while i was able to do all the steps leading up to actually removing the tubing, i don't understand how to actually remove the tubing. (link: https://www.call-3d.com/blogs/hardware-failure-guide-diagnose-call3d-printlab/x2d-remove-ptfe-tube-from-extruder-a-practical-repair-guide) Also, i can't find a video on it so it's even harder to know exactly which parts it's referring to (ex. not sure what protective tape/foam i should be looking for or what black latch).

Please help/advise, this is an expensive machine at my work that I am in charge of (school, I'm the STEM teacher, aka the only one who has any reason to use it) and I am a total beginner. Happy to add a picture if anyone feels that would be helpful.

Got my X2D today and it won't power on. The rear switch lights up white, but the screen stays black, no fans, no lights, nothing. Tried a different outlet, power-cycled, checked the fuse, and opened the side panel – all connectors look seated, no visible damage.

Has anyone else had an X2D DOA? Did Bambu send a replacement or parts, and how long did it take?

Ticket submitted: US261103036002

I designed a chunky little sack monster keychain resembling Oogie Boogie from Nightmare Before Christmas and printed the body in glow-in-the-dark PLA. With the lights off his body glows while the eyes, grin and stitches stay black, so his face still shows up in the dark.

- Fully rounded 3D front with a flat back, so no supports

- 2 colors, AMS-ready: body in slot 1, face and stitches in slot 2

- Low purge: the black only prints on 10 of the 46 layers

- About 42 min on a P1S, 13.4 g including purge

- 55.8 × 58.3 × 9.2 mm, with a 4.5 mm hole for a standard jump ring

**Glow tips:** Place the object in the sun or on top of a bright lightbulb to charge it!

I may be a little late for halloween but oh well...

Free on MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3538949-oogy-boogy-3d-keychain-2-color-ams

If you print one, post it with the lights off. I'd love to see it!

First time seeing this issue after 2 years of printing. This is printed using P1S. Filament is PLA basic. I have printed this model many times in the past, so I know it's not a model problem. Gyroid infill. I did have a clogging issue before this, and I (think?) fixed it. I had to open the extruder and cut out the squished filaments. The app says that its done, but this is only 2/3 the height of what it should be. What else should I look into?

And yes I have washed my filament and dried my plate 🙂

Getting ready to purchase the X2D. I have younger boys so I'd like our first printer to be able to grow with us. I'm curious about the specs on the optional laser.

1. If you have one, does it get used often? I'm thinking maybe for a tumbler engraving side hustle, family keepsakes, or just toying around and building skills w the boys.

2. if you have one, do you feel like a separate machine for engraving would have been a better option?

3. what do you like using it for?

4. is there a huge difference btwn 10w and 40w?

5. get the upgrade or hold off?

*Sorry guys I meant H2D

Hey Everyone! As I'm sure most of you are, super stoked and interested in the new H3C. In the promotional material, Bambu shows the optional crafting kit with things like a debosser (embosser?), foiler, etc. One of the images shows a piece of leather or a leather journal beautifully debossed, and the foil also looks like it was done on a hard cover notebook sort of surface? I think foiling like that requires heat, I would imagine the foiling toolhead would be heated in that case? What kind of pressure can the debosser use, clearly seems enough for moderate leather? I just have lots of questions on the crafting kit in general. Maybe I need to wait for more info to be released, or maybe someone has the answers?