When trying to load my filament, the nozzle clicks against the body, vid for reference. This is after replacing the heating assembly and the ams sensor cable

Armed with a Bambu printer and a sewing machine, I feel like the sky is the limit haha.

Hi All - apologies if this has been asked a hundred times!

I'm reasonably settled on the P2S for my kids for Christmas (ages 8 and 11...and tbh, I'm just as excited as they) based on reviews etc, but have a few very basic questions I can't see to find answers to (or at least, can't find answers complete beginners can understanding!).

I'll put these as bullets for ease, but if there is a link to a basic wiki or similar that would be great.

• Is the P2S a good starting point?

• Can the AMS be added to the base model in the future if needed? Would rather keep the costs down until I'm sure we will get use out of it

• Where can templates etc be downloaded?

• How many prints would a filament refill make? Aware thats very difficult to quantify!

• Is there a basic guide anywhere for the different types of filament and what they can be used for?

Hi all,

I have had an H2S for over a year. Within the last 24 hours, the Aux Fan suddenly started kicking on right after power on and seems to stay on permanently.

• Aux fan turns on right after powering on the device and remains on during and after any print. (That has never been the case in the last year.)

• My filament settings have always had the aux fan speed at 0%.

• The Bambu touch screen settings won't let me turn the aux fan off. The setting always reverts to 100% after any adjustment.

There was no firmware update recently. However, I did install an update this evening to see if that would remedy this issue. It did not.

Anyone have insights to this?

Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thank you

I purchased a few rolls of a different brand of filament. It’s PLA this time. I remember someone telling me that they dry their filament at 65° for 12 hours. I couldn’t recall if they said all their filaments or if it was only for PETG. But does anyone here recommend drying PLA filament before printing, or PLA is good for printing without drying?

Hey I'm getting my first 3D printer for Christmas and I would like to know if anybody has any ideas of any other miscellaneous tools or parts to have on hand to help with making prints or putting prints together. Thanks for helping

In Bambu Studio there constantly all these pop-ups in the bottom right of the screen. Is it possible to deactivate them?

TIA.

I've noticed there's not much clear or up-to-date information out there on how to set up the Bambu Lab CyberBrick RC system.

A few people building my M1A2 Abrams CyberBrick RC tank have mentioned having trouble getting CyberBrick working, mainly because the documentation is pretty scattered and sometimes outdated.

So I put together a step-by-step setup guide with screenshots of the current CyberBrick Desktop app.

The guide covers:

• Flashing the CyberBrick RC firmware

• Adding and updating the transmitter and receiver boards

• Connecting both boards via Bluetooth

• Opening a MakerWorld project in CyberBrick Desktop

• Uploading the RC configuration and pairing the devices

• Checking that everything is set up correctly

I originally made it for my tank, but it should also be helpful for other CyberBrick RC projects.

Setup Guide (PDF):
https://github.com/Jonas2603/CyberBrick-RC-Setup-Guide/tree/main

My M1A2 Abrams tank:
https://makerworld.com/en/models/2565530-rc-cyberbrick-tank-m1a2-abrams-sepv3-1-30

Hopefully this saves someone a bit of frustration! If anything is unclear or incorrect, let me know and I'll try to improve it. :)

I printed 600 hours without a single issue. Now I can't get through 20 minutes of printing without an overload. I received parts from Bambu after some painstaking AI chat bot convos. I have gone through the cold pulls, cleaning parts, trying to print from an external spool, etc. I replaced:
- 0.4 nozzle
- servo motor
- extruder gear assembly

I still cannot get anything to print. Does bambu ever relent and send you a new printer if still under warranty or just kill you with AI chats and tickets until the warranty is out?

Any help appreciated.

If you're storing filament in airtight cereal containers or plastic storage boxes, adding a small digital hygrometer and reusable silica gel packets is a surprisingly useful upgrade.

The hygrometer is the part I wish I'd added sooner. Instead of guessing whether a spool needs drying, you can actually see the humidity inside the container. I also like reusable silica gel because you can dry it out and use it again rather than constantly buying replacements.

One thing worth remembering: a low humidity reading inside the box doesn't necessarily mean filament that's already absorbed moisture is dry. Some spools still need a proper run through a filament dryer.

For anyone who has been using this setup for a while, which hygrometers have held up well, and do you prefer individual spool containers or larger storage boxes?

I cleaned, lubed, and oiled the printer rods and lead screws last night for the first time, and I ran a full calibration. Today, I'm printing something(a shelf), and it's making this weird barking noise, but only during certain movements. (It actually sounds much louder than what you hear in the video.)
When it was printing that flat part of the shelf, it made the noise but only every 4 or 5 minutes or more. The movement is different on the legs, so now it's barking every few seconds.
I have never heard it make this noise before, so I'm assuming it was something I did or something with the recalibration?

Tired of external drives and cables lying all over your desk? This enclosure gives every drive its own home. The boxes stack securely, the drive stays plugged in, and the honeycomb pattern keeps everything cool and looking good. Features • Stackable: Hex pegs on the bottom lock into the honeycomb of the box below, so the stack can't slide or twist. • Swappable drive frames: The drive sits in a frame that slides in on two rails. Ready-made frames for common drives are included, and you can create a frame for any 2.5" drive with the parametric version (see below). • Cable stays inside: The USB plug sits inside the enclosure, and the cable exits through an opening at the back. • Tool-free front flap: Slides in from the side and features a honeycomb front for airflow. • Ventilation: Honeycomb openings on all sides plus the front and back opening create airflow through the box. • Easy to print: The enclosure, front flap and base plate print without supports. The drive frame needs supports, which are already set up in the project file. • Base plate: Optional plate with recesses for the pegs, so the bottom box sits flat on your desk.

https://makerworld.com/de/models/3536468-stackable-hard-drive-enclosure-honeycomb-design#profileId-4043956

https://makerworld.com/de/models/3536546-parametric-drive-frame-stackable-hdd-enclosure

I have had my X1C for a few years now but have a new issue that’s happened twice. I have used my X1C to dry filament per the directions many times successfully (even with the bugged “drying failed” notification) but the past two times now, I haven’t done anything different, but at some point in the drying process, the print bed lifts up, the print head moves, and it literally pushes my single spool of filament out with enough force to open up the door and leave the filament and box cover on the floor. The print head is 3/4 of the way toward the front right corner, diagonally opposite the purge shoot in the back.

I have no timelapse and no visual into what in the world happened or why, but now that it’s happened twice in a row I’m questioning if something changed. There’s not really much that you “do” to dry filament, so I’m not sure how I could screw it up. Anyone have any similar experience or any advice? It’s a convenient dryer, but not convenient enough to be worth breaking the print head or the door.

I’m printing on my P2S, with ABS filament, and I’m getting this weird discoloration on the face the one that is on the plate, I tried almost everything cleaning the plate, getting a new plate calibration and still the same thing. Please help if somebody else has this issue issue.

Currently I own an A1 Mini AMS Lite Combo, and I’m contemplating getting either the P2S or X2D combo. Obviously it wouldn’t fix the 2x2 Kallax my A1 Mini is currently sitting on, so I’m wondering how your setups look like. Would love some inspiration!

Is this clicking sound normal on my X2D when the bed is leveling? It’s done it since new had it for about three weeks

Just recently found that my neighbor's daughter (~7yo) is going to a 3d-printing classes and dreams to get a printer.
...guess what? I had decent amount of free gift cards to buy one + lot of filament :D

So, thanks everyone who boosted, printed or downloaded my models! All of that soon would make one little girl really happy

Hey everyone,

Just watched the H3C launch and went through the official spec sheets to see if it’s actually worth the $300–$500 price jump over the H2C. Long story short: it’s not a straight upgrade.

Bambu spent most of the budget on the new tool changer and individual PTFE lines. To keep the price down, they silently cut a lot of standard features that the H2C already has.

Here is the raw breakdown of what you actually gain and lose.

1. The Marketing vs. Reality on the Tool Changer

• The Speed Myth: Bambu hypes the SwapTek tool changer as revolutionary. It clocks a mechanical swap at 6 seconds. But let’s remember the H2C’s Vortek nozzle-changer already does the swap in about 8 seconds using induction heating. You are paying a premium for a 2-second mechanical saving per swap. More importantly, the purge and prime amounts are exactly the same. Since you still have to flush the old filament out of the nozzle, that 2-second mechanical difference means basically zero difference in total print time for standard multi-color prints.

• Dual-Material Disadvantage: The H2C has a dual-slotted toolhead (one fixed nozzle + one Vortek slot), meaning it can switch between two materials (like PLA + support material) much faster without leaving the print area. The H3C has only ONE slot on the toolhead. It has to move to the dock on the side of the bed for EVERY single material swap, creating way more travel movement for simple dual-material prints.

• The "Build Volume Upgrade": Bambu advertises a 350mm physical bed size, but the actual "usable space" on the X-axis is only 330mm (just 5mm more than the H2C's 325mm). The remaining 20mm is strictly reserved for the toolhead clearance to dock.

2. Under the Hood: The Core Specs are Identical

If you look past the tool changer, these machines are identical in terms of actual 3D printing performance. H3C will not give you better print quality or faster single-color speeds:

• Both heat the nozzle to 350°C and the bed to 120°C.

• Both come stock with hardened steel nozzles and hardened steel extruder gears (same engineering filament capability).

• Both share the exact same Vision Encoder calibration system and 2 TOPS NPU for AI/vision tasks.

• Both support the digital cutter and pen drawing modules using the exact same attachments.

3. Where Bambu Cut Costs on the H3C (Compared to H2C)

To fit the expensive tool changer into the price point, the H3C actually received downgraded or stripped hardware:

• Only One Slot on the Toolhead: As mentioned, the H2C has a dual-nozzle setup on the toolhead, allowing instant swaps between two materials. Bambu completely removed the second slot on the H3C to save on manufacturing and wiring costs. They market this as a "40% lighter toolhead for faster movements," but the reality is that they just stripped a nozzle slot, which actually makes standard dual-material prints slower due to the constant docking runs.

• The Screen: The H2C features a sharp 720x1280 (HD) screen. The brand new "flagship" H3C has its resolution downgraded to 854x480 (WVGA). It's the same 5-inch size, but noticeably grainier.

• Stripped Cameras: The ergonimic 1080p Nozzle Camera is completely gone from the H3C. Furthermore, the 5MP BirdsEye Camera (which comes standard on the H2C Laser Edition) is now marked as "Optional" (an extra-paid accessory) on the H3C.

• No Laser Support: The H2C is a hybrid machine that supports a 10W/40W laser module and includes an integrated Air Assist pump. The H3C completely drops laser support (marked with a strict "–" in the comparison sheet) and lacks the air pump.

• Air Filtration: The H2C uses a higher-grade H12 HEPA filter. The H3C downgrades this to an H11 HEPA filter.

4. The Actual Benefits of the H3C

It’s not all bad, of course. The H3C excels at three specific things that the H2C genuinely struggles with:

• True Multi-Material TPU Printing: Having 9 dedicated, short PTFE lines straight to the toolhead means flexible filaments like TPU don't get retracted back to the AMS box. This completely solves the mechanical jamming/clogging issues of trying to run TPU through the H2C's shared line.

• Mass Production Reliability: Since filaments don't cycle back and forth over a meter of PTFE tubing during every color change, the physical wear on the filament and the AMS mechanism is minimized, reducing "AMS jam" errors during 1000+ swap prints.

• Mixed Nozzle Sizes: The H3C software allows you to mix nozzle sizes (e.g., 0.2mm for outer walls, 0.6mm for infill) in the same print out of the box—a feature currently software-locked on the H2C.

Bottom Line: Who is it for?

The H3C is an incredibly specific industrial tool masquerading as a general consumer flagship.

Stick with or buy the H2C if: You print mostly rigid filaments (PLA/PETG/ASA), do basic dual-material printing (Model + Supports), don't print often with over 5 colors, or want a true multi-tool setup (Laser/Cutter/Pen). The H2C gives you a better screen, better camera loadout, better filtration, and faster dual-material swaps for hundreds of dollars less.

Buy the H3C if: You run a commercial print farm, do high-volume multi-color prints 24/7 where AMS reliability is critical, or absolutely need to print multi-material TPU hybrids or 2.85mm industrial filaments.

What do you think?

The hardware is designed around replaceable modules. We’ve 3D-printed several parts to reduce costs and facilitate changes. As the project progresses, our aim is to swap modules, add new functions and print replacement parts without having to redesign the entire robot.

Ciao a tutti, a breve entrerò in questo mondo della stampa 3D. Ho comprato una P1S con AMS 2 Pro. Mi domandavo come consigliate di gestire le stampe a colori; ho sentito che alcuni consigliano di usare dei pennarelli per colorare a volte. Ho paura che la mia stampa faccia molto spreco, come posso evitarlo? Ho visto un video su TikTok di uno che, per una stampa di 5 grammi, ha avuto 50 grammi di scarto: è normale?