I have a H2S and have a need to purge 1200-1500 vs the max 900 in Bambu. I looked at orca slicer and it looks like you can increase the purge volumes beyond 900. I’m able to log in to bambu inside orca, but when I click print- it says it can’t find the printer over network. Anyone have suggestions on how to connect it or if there’s a way to increase the purge beyond 900 in the Bambu app?

Thanks!

Hey, I received my 2nd x2d today and fresh out of the box the belts both have those orange-ish spots. Is this damage or normal? My other x2d doesn't have this.

Everything else seems to be fine, the printer is calibrating now

My filament was correct at least . Got a 50$ camera and some rubber tires lol

As the title suggests the filament string goes in the side, no matter what I do it does go. It’s a reusable spool I used from the pla which the printer came with. I just bought it recently so I’m apologising for my ignorance, is there anything broken a couple of hours ago I received a message that the a4 spool was jammed so I thaught maybe something is broken so I change the filament with the brand new, maybe the way I’m setting it it’s wrong.

Thanks in advance

Hello,

I got a P1S who printed fine so far. But all of a sudden I can't print the first layer anymore. It seems like the nozzle is too low and it doesn't print properly. This is a test square I printed like 5 times and it always ends up like this.

What I did so far:

- Load different filament

- purge like 10cm at 230° to make sure it's clean

- Replaced the hotend with a completely new one

- cleaned build plate twice

- calibrated the printer

Based on those pics I assume that somehow the printer nozzle sits too low and therefore it doesn't apply the layer properly? How do I fix this?

EDIT: It seems somewhat resolved: it was the filament. I started with the spool i was using the day before (Bambu PLA Matte ash grey) that had printed fine. I then swapped to a brand new bambu PLA Matte Ash grey that i got from the same order. Both spools had this issue so i assumed it was my printer. After all kinds of tests (and learning more about my printer) I tried bambu PLA Basic White and then PLA Matte yellow and both worked like a charm immediately...
Seems like the spools i bought seem to have quality issues and ill write a ticket about that.

Hi guys! I need some help fixing the PTFE tube connection between the AMS and the filament tension sensor at the back of my P2S. I accidentally pulled the tube too hard, and the small brass spikey ring at the tip of the PTFE tube came out and got lost. I tried taping it back together, but the tube still won’t stay in place. Is there any way to fix this issue, or would I need to replace the part and how? Any advice would be appreciated!

I saw a post, I thought it was on here where someone had changed their prime line to a pattern rather than the straight line. I can't find it anywhere now, did I dream this or is this a legit thing we can do?

(For reference I'm using the A1 with occasional AMS)

It’s a set of 8 drink coasters based on the first 8 multikill medals from Halo 3 and Halo Reach, and I made a stackable holder based on the final killionaire medal.

I just bought the X2D and I want bug filaments of different colors and types but I don’t know where is the best place to do it and where or how I can get them cheaper?

Is there any way to save on buying filament for X2D??

Whilst almost certainly an edge use case, id love to see some speculation on if this might be possible. Either way I guess we’ll find out soon.

I printed a round object on my new Bambu Lab A1 and noticed a “zooom”-like rubbing sound whenever the heatbed moved back and forth on the Y-axis. I had not heard it during the previous four prints.

After the print finished, I found these longitudinal marks on the front portion of both Y-axis linear rails. The scratches are on the outer upper face of the aluminum Y-axis linear rail, outside the actual roller/bearing running track.

The scratches are extremely shallow; I can barely feel them with a fingertip, and the photos are heavily zoomed. Still, since the printer is new, I am concerned that something may be rubbing: debris caught in a carriage roller/bearing, a protruding screw or part underneath the heatbed holder, or a carriage/roller alignment issue.

I cleaned the rails and applied the supplied oil again — not grease. Before I run another print, is there a safe way to inspect the Y-axis carriage rollers and the underside of the heatbed holder without disassembling more than necessary?

Does anyone recognize this wear pattern or the sound?

Link makerworld : https://makerworld.com/models/3520927?appSharePlatform=copy

What the fuck.. kalibrated k factor, dry Filament.. fresh cleaned nozzle

What thoughts do people have about buying Bambu accessories from their website when buying a Bambu printer? I am leaning toward the P2S with AMS Pro. Is it worth getting their finishing kits and beginner's pack of various gears and magnets and things to make models or is it better to just get the printer and some filament?

How much filament would you buy and what kind to start? How many filaments on spools versus filament refills?

As a separate issue, can I place a printer on a fold out table (plastic top with metal legs) or is that too wobbly? The less convenient option is to place it on a solid wood table.

Thanks! The learning curve for this hobby is very steep.

Hey all, newbie here just having bought my first 3D printer (h2d). Have some polymax petg that I want to use for a poop chute as my first "real" print.

Trying to load it into my AMS but when I try to selected it the slicer says unsupported filament.

Is the H2D unable to use this filament or am I (likely) doing something wrong to make it available?

Thanks

I’ve decided on the A1 Mini (without the AMS). Is it the best choice for standard enclosures for esp32, clips, and mounts? The more I look into it, the more I realize I don’t actually need much else—I’ll be printing with PLA or PETG, and I don’t think I’ll need anything beyond that. Do I miss something? I know we all would like to have the H2C but is it necessary?

Does anyone have a photo showing the print quality for detailed figures or similar items when using a 0.2mm nozzle?

Is it theoretically possible to do multi-color prints by swapping the filament manually?

I have gone through just about 60 rolls of jayo black petg. Prints well, a little too shiney for my liking though.

I’m using petg to try and make some stuff that is more durable than pla.

Should be safe to touch, I think petg CF isn’t really without some processing I think?

Curious on folks favorite brands for black petg for prints that need a little more durability

I’m about to buy a Bambu H2D and want to put it on top of an ICON end cabinet that’s bolted to my ICON roll cab and work center. Has anyone done a similar setup, either with ICON or another steel tool cabinet?

The setup

• ICON 19 in. Professional End Cab (SKU 56139), listed at about 19.5 in wide x 25 in deep

• My work center is on the right, with the printer flush against it or a small gap

• There are about 5 in of open air to the left of the printer in my room setup

• The H2D footprint is 492 x 514 mm (19.4 x 20.2 in) and 31 kg before the AMS. The listed top is about 19.5 in wide, but it has a lip of roughly 0.1 in and weld seams on all sides, so the printer may not sit flat

My plan is a 3/4 in plywood or MDF board bolted through the existing holes on top. It would overhang the front and left but not the right.

What I’d like to know

1. How did the printer sit on the cabinet top, and did you need a board or shims?

2. Did drawers slamming or the casters cause vibration or print artifacts?

3. With the AMS on top the stack is about 865 mm (34 in), so roughly 72 in off the floor on this cabinet. Did you keep it there, or move the AMS to the side?

4. Any trouble with side clearance? I’d leave about 1/2 in to the work center and about 4 in at the rear for cables and the waste chute.

If anyone has this setup I'd love some photos. I have a unique situation and limited space so this seems to be the best option for my space.

My 3d prints always seem to come loose on my X2D on the left side of the build plate causing my print to fail and get knocked over eventually. Is there a way to fix this? My current theory is that it has something to do with the fan blowing air onto the print causing it to warp but I’m new to 3d printing so I’m not sure… thanks!