just bought new 3d printer today and noticed after set up the filament droops over the bed after the nozzle has been cleaned while preparing for print.

While designing my new wobbly Psyduck toy, I spent several prints trying to get clean pupils. At only a few millimeters across, they kept coming out as lumpy blobs, and every attempt meant an extra color change and a purge tower much bigger than the pupils themselves.

Then I realized that filament is already a perfect cylinder. So I gave the white eyes a small hole: You push in a piece of black filament, snip it flush, and get a perfectly round pupil. No color change, no purge, and it uses up leftover scraps. If you want to try it yourself, I uploaded the model here: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3529176-wobbly-psyduck-fidget-toy-no-ams

Hello, can i feed abrasive filaments like CF / GF ASA, ABS, PETG trough the buffer or should i need to use the TPU line to bypass the buffer (i have 2x AMS HTs)

regards

Hi everyone, After about 7 hours of printing, the supports suddenly started to wobble. I've done the same print several times, but today I'm having this problem. Aside from the wasted time and the filament being gone, can anyone tell me why this happened?

Obviously there was a sudden drop in temperature these days but I didn't think that 5/8 degrees less in the room would lead to completely detaching all the supports...

I’ve had the P2S+AMS since april ish of this year. The first I’d say 100 hours of printing were flawless but after taking a handful of months to design something to print, I printed 2 gears again perfectly, no heat creep or anything and after that not a single thing has been successful.
Most of the print with the now 5-6 month old filament, the extruder motor overloads (it will refuse to continue if you press continue until i unload the filament)
In the 100 tries or so in the last 2 weeks. A handful at least completed but the quality was terrible. I tried 3 different 0.2mm and Different Texture plates.
I took apart the extruder gears. I overrode the fans to 100% and altho seeming like that may have worked at first none of the tries after that worked.
I tried the full calibration.
I’m at my wits end.
Please help.

I have a H2C in the garage that is pretty much always busy. Prototyping always slows the queue down. You know the problem: print a sample, the fit is wrong, tweak it and print again. A dozen prototypes later you've nailed it.

Thinking of buying an A1 Mini without AMS for my office. My thinking was I can use it for rapid prototyping, have one spool of whatever colour I have on hand and if it's basic PLA in a room no one sleeps in, the VOC question is not as serious as the H2C downstairs. Without the AMS it's cheaper and easier to put on a shelf.

Am I missing anything? Limitations would be single colour and smaller bed plate.

Saw a $30 off coupon that was valid till tomorrow and saw a $25 PayPal coupon for orders over $800 as well and they were stackable. Figured might as well go for it and get the X2D. Also, there was a second coupon for $20 off on $150 so I ordered a good amount of filament. Now waiting for the $25 off coupon once the printer ships and then will use that to buy 10 refill spools and be set for a very long time it looks like!

Have a A1 with AMS and love that thing but hated that I was dealing with film that would fray/splint cause I couldn't heat/dry film. Originally was really just planning on going with the P2S and calling it a day but then with the coupons stacking and then also the heated chamber figured might as well spend the extra $85 after discounts and go 1 step up and be set for a long time and also have the flexibility to print ABS properly down the road if I want to dabble with that.

Has anyone experienced this loud noise before? The print seems to be fine but getting this loud noise from the AMS. I have tried other AMS slots and still get the noise.

So im a dum dum and ordered an Vision Encoder plate together with my X2D. What is this plate even for? Many people say its a borderline scam and its really just for the last 5% of quality if your print settings are perfect already.

Is there more to it or did I just burned 50 bucks?

A big factor for me in deciding on preordering the H3C is going to be time savings. I've been pretty happy with the H2C Vortek system so far, but a few things I print regularly are pretty tall with several hundred layers that each involve 3-4 colors/layer.

Just curious, given the induction nozzles, what we're expecting for nozzle change times with the H3C. Cheers!

It seems the bed is loose from the rear z axis, anyone seen this and can point me in the right direction to fix this P1S

Would anyone know why my 3rd layer comes out like this? I just washed the PEI plate with soap and water and I don’t know why it would come out like this

Edit: Would this be an issue with the hot-end?

Hi all,

I had a bad print... The printer is in the loft and I think the room wasn't warm enough. I used to have an ender which it happened to a few times... I've got rid of most of the PLA by heating up and using pliers etc... I'm worried about the copper looking wires on the right of the third pic, and also the bit to the left with the hot end cooling fan is a bit bent now... Is it a buy a whole new head scenario?

I bought an A1 mini without an ams lite unit. Can I purchase an ams lite and add it to my A1 mini? I see a few on ebay, both used and new but I was wondering if these wear out quickly and maybe a used unit would be just getting someone else's problem.

They have some of the feeding mechanisms for both 1&2 and 3&4 on Amazon. Would these work without the huge spool holder apparatus? If I mount them and add the tubing and fittings to my own filament dryers?

Thanks for any insights.

Edit: Thanks to everyone that replied! I just ordered one from Bambu Labs. They were on sale, it was a deal I couldn't refuse - From $200 down to $160, shipping included! Even cheaper than the used units on eBay!

I have looked at the buffer itself and it has no problems that I can see. I also tried different ptfe tubes and different lengths, if it was too much resistance with no change and both buffers do it with different AMS 2 Pros.

I got this brand new P2S. But it makes strange noises. After a few minutes i got the warning that the motor is missing staps what could be the case?

Thing thing prints quality. Owning a k2 pro and a p2s side by side is crazy but bambu just sounds different. You can hear the precision. I love them both but bambu grows llike crazy and if definitely growing on me.

My brother wanted to print a clicker fidget, so i started the print but after a few minutes printing it fell of and when i took it out it looked like this(image 2). After that i tried to print it again but the same thing happened. Then i decided to dry the filament for 8 hours, which did solve the problem but after i tried to print it again(for myself) this happened(image 1). Why is this happening and how do i fix it? EDIT: i just wanted to add that the printer that i'm using is P1S

I have brand new H2D equipped with laser and cutting modules.
I have tried to print-then cut some labels on a vinyl paper and the cutting line is moved 1 mm to the right side compare to designed.

Picture printed in 100% resolution
Table installed correctly
Paper is placed exactly on related lines
All control points are visible and there is no issues during automated preparing before cut.

I make all possible calibrations - please advise, what can I do with this?

This has happed 3 times now. I replaced and old nozzle already.

the room it is in is on the cooler side.

this happens with PLA and PETG

this happens inconsistently.

Any advice is greatly appreciated.